Great question Steve! I try to cut right on the running stitch. See above comment for recommended width on the running stitch as well as offset.

Good question! Your suggestion does sound like a great idea, but we couldn't comment on how easily that material would tear away after the satin border sewed out without testing it. If I'm reading your comment correctly, you're suggesting to include a layer of heat seal on the underside of the patch. Maybe an alternative method would be to pre-cut matching heat seal shapes and stack it together with the patch material on the ultra-solvy, letting the satin border sew them together?

Thank you so much! Ordered the Badgemaster and a sample of the heat seal to play with. The customer service said to pre-cut the heat seal and heat it to the patch after.

Glad we could help! Good luck with your project! An alternative (similar product) to Badgemaster is Ultra Solvy, which you can order from www.texmacdirect.com. We have good prices.

I guess it is kind of randomly asking but do anybody know of a good site to stream newly released series online?

Good question, Phil! 3mm is not a bad width; but when the patch shapes are hand-cut, a wider satin helps cover any unevenness more effectively. The satin in the video was about 3.5mm wide if I recall correctly. If the patch shapes are machine-cut, you hoop the stabilizer tightly, your tensions are good, and you have a good-quality machine like the one shown here, no need to go too much wider than 3mm. 5-6mm is very wide, for example. Also, if your software has the setting, offset the satin inwards by about 2/3rds the width (2/3 inside of center, 1/3 outside of center for a cleaner look. Hope this helps!

Good question! At that point, there are several choices: (1) an embroidery machine can applique them onto a garment (very fast) (2) they can be sewn with a sewing machine or hand-sewn onto a garment; (3) the patches can be manufactured with an iron-on adhesive so that the patch can simply be ironed on by anyone without a machine

Thanks again. I was thinking of something like Thermograh adhesive, then using my heat press to attach them. Cheers.

The machine will create patches / embroider with a very wide variety of fabrics including dense nylon and heavy twill, if that answers your question.

Listen please

I hand-cut those patches in the video, but if I were doing it on a small cutter like a Cricut or a Silhouette cameo, it's all about making sure the mat is clean and nicely sticky. Experiment with blade settings such and depth and cut speed and always choose the double cut. I use a Silhouette Cameo for fabric cutting, in which I set the blade fairly deep and a medium cut speed, and change the blade as often as needed.

Listen please

In this design, it is a normal satin stitch, but (1) zigzag underlay (or zigzag underlay + centerline underlay) is useful, plus appropriate pull compensation + I recommend offsetting the border satin inwards by about 1/3-2/3rds of its width.

@@TexmacHappyEmbroideryMachines Maybe a silly question, but I assume you would need to use the same bobbin colour as your main thread?

Yes, that can definitely be done, such as Heat & Bond Lite.

@@TexmacHappyEmbroideryMachines I wish you showed the complete process including the heat bond. Other than that great video.

i am a designer and i have Embroidery machine is also there will you work with me

We are using Ultra Solvy, which you can purchase from us online at www.texmacdirect.com, or call us at 855-373-6929.

The water soluble clear backing was a heavy water soluble topping from Gunold called Filmoplast.

Hi, great question! As a 20-year digitizer, I think the standard setup of 40weight thread mated with a 75/11 sharp or 80/2 sharp is just fine. Fine detail can be managed with good digitizing skills. Of course you can get even finer detail with finer thread and needle (65/9 needle with 60-weight thread for example) but whenever I get requests from new embroiderers on improving fine detail, I often find that better digitizing can get finer detail than they realize they could out of the more common needle and thread sizes I first mentioned, which is why I prefer to advise getting more out of that before trying finer needle/thread. The smaller needle/thread combination may make finer detail but it comes with its compromises - higher stitch count/ rows needed to cover a given area; a thinner needle is also not as strong; the different needle needs to be tensioned differently and set up differently in the digitizing (higher density settings to accommodate its thinness compared to 40wt thread). That being said, if your project calls for detail that fine, there is nothing wrong with using the finer needle/thread combination when the needs of the project justify the added complexity.

Good question! You can use Heat & Bond Lite or other heat-fusible, double-sided adhesive to make it a true iron-on patch.

He used spary adhesive to stick to the water soluble stabilizer.

Make sure you're using the Ultra Solvy, which is a very thick version of water soluble backing.

Hello Ganesh and thank you for your interest! TEXMAC Direct sells exclusively in North America. However, there is an authorized HAPPY dealer in Mumbai: L.N. ENTERPRISES A-101/102, First Floor, Eversun - DLH Junction, Sahakar Nagar, J.P.Road, Andheri West, Mumbai - 400 053 TEL +91 22 26749218 FAX +91 22 26743426 E-Mail lnind@vsnl.net

The cutter used in this case was a Silhouette Cameo, fixed to a larger Cricut cutting mat. Test your cutter for the best settings, such as cut depth and speed. The cutter was slowed to about 3cm/ second, double-cut was used, as well as a lower (but not the lowest) cut depth. Note that more powerful cutters are recommended such as an Ioline 300 for cutting material like twill.

@@TexmacHappyEmbroideryMachines It would be great if you showed the process of cutting it with the cutter. I own a cricut and I just purchased my own embroidery machine.

This would make sense if the shape was already cut. If making the border on uncut material, then cutting the shapes out would leave small amounts of excess material on the edge that is difficult to remove. But you are right in the sense that if you can pre-cut the shapes with a cutter (like a Silhouette Cameo or Roland / Gerber / GCC) then place them on the water soluble stabilizer, then the patch detail and border can be embroidered as one step.

how exactly do you get the circle perfectly centered with the center of the patch like that? Surely you can not put the patches on as precisely as you would do it with a program (i.e. x=0, y=0 for patch and edge)

It is really not that hard. Just align the edge of the patch to the placement stitches as seen at 2:10 in the video. Because the placement stitches are in the digitizing file already aligned to the satin border, they line up perfectly. So the precision is all done in the digitizing program. The placement stitches are part of the digital .dst design that sews the patch border and detail - the machine just pauses after running the placement stitches, so when I hit START after placing the shapes, it just sews the rest of the design.

The machine in the video is the Happy HCS2-1201 Voyager. You can find information about it at happyemb.com. For pricing call us at 877-335-5206 for a no-obligation quote or just to get pricing and any other info from our sales reps.

You have a good point - doing it all at once would be a time-saver, but I wanted to use twill as a back, so you do not have to fill the entire area with stitching, saving time on the machine. To combine your method and still having the twilly, I would recommend pre-cutting the twill material shapes and then appliqueing the shapes directly onto the clear backing and then sewing the patch detail and the border.

I actually hand-cut the patches done in the video. However if I had used our cutter (Silhouette Cameo), I would have pre-cut the shapes, appliqued them directly onto the Ultra Solvy heavy washaway backing, then sewn the entire patch and border all in one step. A cutter would definitely have saved some time and steps; we will try to post a similar video demonstrating the use of machine-cut shapes in the future.

if you are referring to the stabilizer, it is a heavy-duty water-soluble topping. TEXMAC Direct sells it in the US as Ultra-Solvy. Another traditional brand of this is Badgemaster.

thanks i made or (did) it yesterday , and the patches look magnificent,

Great to hear!!!

It's called Filmoplast. It's a heavy-weight water-soluble topping. You can buy it from www.texmacdirect.com

Hello Ramehs, thank you for your interest! Our company TEXMAC Direct provides pricing for sales in the US, and you can call us at 877-335-5206 or send an inquiry to happyemb.com/buy for a no-obligation price quote. If you are outside the US, there is a global network of distributors for Happy embroidery machines - just let us know your location. Thanks again!

Ultra Solvy - you can order it from texmacdirect.com

Good question! In the process described, the patches are created in 2 major steps: (1) the patches and detail are sewn on a large piece of material/twill, then individually hand-cut out then (2) They are affixed (appliqued) onto a piece of dissolvable backing so their borders can be sewn on. With a computer-driven cutter, the patch shapes can be pre-cut in advance before any sewing / embroidery is done, then the entire process is compressed into only 1 major step: A large piece of dissolvable backing is hooped, the machine marks (with stitching) precise locations to place the pre-cut blank shapes, and then the machine proceeds to sew the patch detail and the border all in 1 step, then the patches are ripped free/clean of the backing.

Thanks for the advice. Now I get it. Have a good one!

Hi, Pinar, yes you can!

This techniques in this video an experimental setup of the general technique and not representative of the full production process. It is recommended in the video for a commercial setup that the patches be machine-cut which reduces the time. The significance of the technique shown in this video is the elimination of the need hand-sew the border using a post bed sewing machine - the traditional method of patch making. Patches traditionally have been done on much larger machines with very large flat hoops, where economies of scale make them more affordable. However, custom patches are much more in demand in small and medium order size, and the techniques shown here give the single-head embroiderer the opportunity to produce patches for that market that are indistinguishable in quality from other techniques that require a lot more expensive equipment. It would be nice to produce them as simply as has been suggested, but it is apparent that there is demand for true embroidered patches likes these, as well as market pricing to support it. Many owners of the type of machine shown in the video rely on it as a significant part of their business. But of course, any new technology that could shorten or simplify the process would be certainly welcomed. And for the price that these machines go for, even light business can completely pay for the investment within just a few months, and the machines can / do last for 10, 20 years with very little maintenance. A final point - patches are just a small part of what these machines do, so this video demonstrates only 1 of many, many types of embroidered goods that the owner can produce for a business.

Maybe you just dont have the correct ideas to make money with patches.... these machines are great !!! But not everyone has the skills or smarts to put them to good use