Thank you. About making a video of what I've learned, it is unfortunately unlikely. I really learned a lot, but it's complicated to keep track of what I've learned. But I can tell you that most things I learned are surrounding a central core, that is Klipper.

That makes sense. A commentary over this video might help with keeping track of things, but understandable if it's still too much in your opinion. If you found Klipper most interesting, maybe you could do a video on your favorite/most useful Klipper functions/implementations? I'm just so curious to learn more about everything you've accomplished after seeing this video!

by any chance will you make a discord any time soon?

Thank you for your support!

Here is AWD for V-Core www.printables.com/model/263645-v-core-31-decoupled-awdquad-motor-mod-open-front-c

@@davidwang_3d Favorited, you're a lifesaver, looked up v-core awd and ratrig awd and found nothing relevant. Wish i'd found it 2 weeks ago. Building 2 vzbot 330 one of them is 530x530x1000 , still figuring out how to adapt and implement RatRigs kinematic bed from 3030 to 2040 or similar system on belts but once i've got some spare time and €€ i'll make a Vcore awd. There's no such thing as too many printers.

I decide to wait a bit on the Goliath, and see how will the battle between the Goliath and the STD6 turn out. Also it's important to wait for a EVA mount to become available.

The video shows all the upgrades I did to my V-Core 3

@@davidwang_3d Where did you source the parts from, like the carbon fiber gantry and the MMU? I'm going to start with the 3.0 to 3.1 upgrade.

At target speed of 1000mm/s, stock 2020 aluminum gantry gives 15k maximum accel, the CF gantry gives 30k accel, and CF gantry with AWD gives 75k accel.

It's a bit more difficult, but I managed to get it off with pliers and the surface did not need any sanding aftwards.

I no longer recommend using a cable chain since the EVA 3 upgrade, the 4028 fan will run into the frame side of the cable chain holder.

Move your printhead to the furthest point and make sure the filament can still run through the tube smoothly

I recommend watching this video, which explains everything about squaring the frame and how to get a good bed mesh: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/oGeLiKdpm3qFzIE.html

It really depends on material. Gluestick is beneficial for PLA, which usually doesn't stick well enough, and PC, which usually sticks too well. But for PETG, gluestick actually ruins the adhesion and makes parts more likely to come off during the print.

interesting, ive only printed with abs and asa, i bought a roll of pc-cf gonna try that soon @@davidwang_3d

IDEX will not make it fast. IDEX gives you the option to print two filaments with quick tool changes. AWD will make your printer faster. If you want to save costs, start at using 48V and TMC5160 for your XY steppers, and it you are not happy with the performance, then you want to go AWD.

www.printables.com/model/296322-v-core-3-120x38mm-static-cooling-fan-mount

www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/delta-electronics/PFR1212DHE-SP00/3078696

@@davidwang_3d thank you

Check the video: I didn't use a single piece of panel at all! I used printed brackets to mount electronics.

I move the gantry to one side, adjust the belt tension of each belt until the gantry is completely parallel to the frame.

@@davidwang_3d After reading this I went and corrected my gantry. I am sure I had it parallel but It somehow had 8mm of play now. I made sure to undo all twist in the linear rail Y+X, I could feel it had resistance. Oh boy did that make the difference. Before with input_shaper enabled I had a bad ringing that kept appearing no matter the accel/speed. Now I can make it disappear with lower accel on parameter. Doing all test in silk pla might not help with my perfectionist eye tho....😅

I talked to fast on that one, after hours of printing it came back. I swear this is a tooth idler patern

I have done it, I found the cause of all my problem. Oh my god was it stupid. I installed something to keep the cable from dangling and that simple thing was causing all my ringing problem...

Definitely try to grasp the concepts of Klipper, and some build guides on building the machine perfectly, for example, how to square your frame to get a good bed mesh.

They are all different and it's all dependent on personal preferences

No power tools. Just my hand and pliers, and the sharp PLA drew some blood on my hand

I use a 2mm ID tube to reduce friction

Funssor on Aliexpress

@@davidwang_3d thank you so much

I didn't really have an option but to pick the 500mm size. The reality is that most things I print fit in a 300mm, but there is always sometimes I had to print something really long that only fits on the 500 diagonally. Yes, the bed mesh isn't great, it's at about 0.4mm variance, but that's not the bed itself, but the gantry sagging/bowing, which can be dealt with. Personally, I think it's better to have a large machine but print mostly small things on it, than having a small machine and worrying when there is one time when I need to print something large.

Driver is Mellow TMC5160 Pro V1.2, board is BTT Octopus Pro

@@davidwang_3d awesome! Are you running those motors in 48v ?

@@gilmbento Yes, 48V

Firstly, 600mm³ does not equal to 600mmx600mmx600mm, but I get what you mean. There are reasons why I chose the 500. 1. 500mm is a standard kit and it's easy to order from Rat Rig. 600mm is not a standard size they sell, and I have to self source everything, which would cost me a ton more. 2. The larger the machine, the less stability, the frame has more leverage to wobble. 3. The gantry gets heavier, and the belts get longer, which means more ringing, and less acceleration. 4. The bed also gets significantly larger and heavier, which increases variance on bed mesh, and it takes significantly more energy for it to heat up

At the current stage, I will start designing a 6WD V-Core 4, but I won't be buying the kit just yet

Auto Z offset calibration requires a sensor outside the bed area, however the nozzle cannot move outside of bed area on the V-Core 3.

@@davidwang_3d I'm looking for a way to do the same thing but with a removable endstop. You put the sensor under the nozzle only when you need to calibrate the z offset

Thanks for asking but I don't own a Voron.

Can we use some of your advise on the subject, i checked that this set it sold on 400mm as a max but you've made a 500mm one! I was wondering where and what to look for, and do we need to make some custom parts to have it 6500mm by 650mm?!

Add me on Discord, NecroDavid#6294

On Rat Rig website or Fabreeko

@@davidwang_3d thank you very much

I uses CNC Kitchen's blob test, or sometimes even trial and error to find out the maximum flow of my hotend/filament.

It's pretty much the same exact config to the RatOS stock TMC5160 config, except I set the sense_resistor to 0.033

@@davidwang_3d Thanks, I had to swap the steppers wiring, now is all good.

I use stepper motor dampeners

@@davidwang_3d i'm surprised that the difference is so big. Did you have to elongate the motor shaft?

​@stefanwilkens My motors are decoupled, meaning that a extension shaft is used with a coupler to the motor shaft, and both the top and bottom sides of the pulley is supported by bearings, therefore no sideways stress on the motor shaft.

www.thingiverse.com/thing:5325170

Using the Rapido hotend and Volcano nozzle doesn't lead to less neat parts. It just faster than V6 with nearly no drawbacks.

@@davidwang_3d I find when I run the uhf I get alot more oozing!

That was in fact not a Volcomosq, but a Volcodrag, a special Volcano block mounted to a Dragon heatsink/heatbreak. There have been people saying that the Dragon heatbreak cannot stand abrasive materials, but my Rapido holds up fine with Abrasives, even though it is not recommended.

Use this tool www.ultimatesolver.com/en/midi2gcode

@@davidwang_3d Thank you!

Thanks for that suggestion, but ball screws are not something I really need right now, my V-Core 3.1 Oldham couplers are doing a great job at eliminating Z wobble, plus I also need to redesign the entire Z system.

@@davidwang_3d do you mind sharing what you have planned for the z axis ?

@@anthonypsantos I'm saying that if I use ball screws I will have to redesign, but I'm not planning on doing that.

I drilled out metal joiner plates instead of printed ones

After fine adjustments on the frame, I get 0.4mm variance, with all 4 corners level. The variance comes from the bowing of the gantry

An enclosure is required to print ABS, I do not have an enclosure and I'm not planning to enclose my printer anytime soon. Not to mention the toxicity of it, and the shrinkage and warping. If I really want to go high temp, I use Prusament PC-CF, which most of my toolhead and all the bed arms are printed with it.

The input shaper tells you the maximum acceleration you can use without having ringing, but your motion system is more capable than that. It just means you can get to that accel, but at the cost of ringing.

@@davidwang_3d AH makes sense thanks for the answer! Also, what caused you to fry your first 4028 fan?

​@Cameron Chartier It was a wrong fan to begin with, it had no PWM pin, so I though I could just PWM it from power pins, that killed it.

www.ultimatesolver.com/en/midi2gcode

@@davidwang_3d tnx a lot !!

I use an endoscope from Amazon.

@@davidwang_3d What did you use to attach it? My current solution isnt stable enough / the endoscope keeps moving out of place.

These are corner clamps I got from Amazon.

@@davidwang_3d thank you sir!

No, Prusament PC-CF is printable without enclosure

@@davidwang_3d good to know! Thanks. Why did you do the AWD mod? Would you recommend it?

​@@dubCanuck1 Yes, I recommended it if you have a 500. But it all depends on personal preferences.

No

SuperSlicer

Do you share your settings? That what I use, just curious how yours compare. I'm just getting started with it @@davidwang_3d

That was with stock parts and with my limited knowledge on the slicer. Here is a 9 min: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/noKhiZB6p4lmo3U.html My most recent tests shows potential for a sub 5 min benchy.

Yes, I am :)

It is already 48V

i have found it . thank you

Yes, I love my 500 My Discord is NecroDavid #6294

@@davidwang_3d sent you an invite 😊