This^ "Its reliable, guess it'll never break" - modern car buyers

Yes

Same goes for Citroën and Peugeot, my dad had both Berlingo and Partner, only one that broke down was the Berlingo because he ended up hitting a bus and even then it was still running. Why? Because HE DID MAINTENANCE

The opposite thinking is also common. The car broke because it was unreliable, not because the owner clearly didn’t know how to do simple maintenance. Do all the important maintenance like oil changes first before complaining about the common problems of specific cars.

@@BladedAngelhey bladed wb phone start cars, not to sound too dumb here lol.

Thank you for providing us with a 5th Bad Car Ownership Habit.

California hates this one Simple trick. All seriousness i agree, nothing beats a properly done hand wash, and doing it often makes it easier. as a bonus it’s super easy to hand wash my miata because it’s so small so why not.

I would say to use these ones and then manually clean your car when you get home afterwards

This is lack of choice and not a bad habit. Touchless car wash - yes, the car will not be complexly perfect clean, but it not needed, if you're going through the car wash once a week. "Soft touch" - they do leave a swirls, but it doesn't really damage a car and most people do not care.

Unfortunately I live in a condo so I can't wash my car by hand. Aside from not having a garage, it's against the condo rules to even use a mobile car wash service.

I coulda sworn it was every 1000 blinks

335i owner be like.. is that even a thing ?

What's that? Asking bc im 14 never had a car

There is no such thing "100 blinks". The fluid must be changed as per owner's manual.

@@Nottheoutline420 not a real thing, don't worry, it's just a joke between car guys and something used to prank non-car people

same... I need to replace my valve seals and replace my timing chain but i kept pushing it away for months lol We work enough on cars at work so it doesnt make us want to do the job on our own cars sometimes ahah

Hahn. Only us mechanics know never to buy a car off another mechanic

Same here, oil changes haven't been all that diligent lately --WFH didn't help either-- but recently i noticed that the brake situation is also dire; there's still plenty of pad but the rotors could use a replacement, and being all almost 10 year old parts i will freshen up everything and take the car to replace the brake fluid as well.

@@alienfromarea5115 lmao so true

This is not odd in fact. As a computer technician, my own pc and laptop are the most neglected devices i had to deal with. Once i cleaned my laptop, and, even if its last complete maintenance was less than 6 months prior, it completely threw a dust cloud.

Especially if you have a VW/Audi and you are going somewhere other than the dealer. They have many different key shapes, you can’t expect a tire shop to have yours.

That must be so hard to balance. On the one hand, I would want to stick it to them and say "not my problem, give me key, or tire no get fixed" on the other hand, many customers will just drive away on a tire with the radial exposed with 3 kids in the back seat, completely oblivious to the imminent danger they're all in. So do I encourage their utter lack of responsiblity and painfully get their stinking locking lug off, or do I let them put themselves and others in danger just to prove a point? I would probably solve this issue by fabing a custom air hammer tip that fits the end of a 1/2" drive impact socket and start turning those keyed lugnuts into regular lugnuts... by force. Truth be told, I have 3 keys for my set of wheels :D

I have a question, are tires in the US different from the tires in Europe? In Europe (i live in germany) the tire profile points in one direction and if you would rotate your tires at least two would point in the wrong direction.

@@christopherlowery855how do you get more than 1 key? I have locks and 1 key but I want another one to have a spare for emergency’s and such. The problem is I didn’t order the locks myself, they came with the wheels on fitment industries so idk what the size is

​@@collinguhs9859some tires are directional, some aren't. My winters, for example, are. My summers are not. Depends on the tread (I remember being told that modern tires don't care which direction they spin in but it used to be that it was dangerous to run them backwards because of the way they were made. Idk) because they are meant to provide grip in one direction. I imagine there are non directional tires in Europe but I have no idea. You can still rotate them front/back I think

Literally just yesterday I had an argument with someone who thought a tire that was so worn down the cords where showing was safe to drive on "because it holds air"

And at the recommended pressure, I've seen some putting more than even the tire manufacturer has marked on the tire.

​@@DereckLunarthat's why you never trust the mechanics to fill up for you. Most of them have no clue what recommended pressure is for every car. They fill uneven and just call it done.

@@nyankanakitty Where I'm from most put it to a slight overpressure (2.5bars) that has barely any bad influence on driving. While I always put the manufacturer's recommended one (mostly 2.2bars front, 2.1bars rear for your generic everyday hatchback car).

Same here

I drive a 2015 focus. The last "simple" car Ford ever made.

A Screw Driver can still steal a turnkey car. A Transponder Key is the most resistant. It needs a physical key AND a specific manufacturer digital signal it sends to the car to start. Notice how i said resistant though. If a thief is determined enough, any car can be stolen. However, it's our job to make ours look less "appealing" than the other car next to it :)

i know for a fact that my 2000 honda would be stolen in like 10 seconds cause i can see the wear on the key, i just hope it wont break the key mechanism from over-use.only really 1 key was ever used on that car, it legit looks more like a slide than the sharp ticks its supposed to have

I like the simplicity of a traditional turn key, it lets you use the starter motor however you like and you don't have to worry about batteries or broken buttons. My car's key doesn't even have a clicker for locking the doors, it looks like a house key and I wouldn't want it any other way. For security, you can install a hidden kill switch to sever the electric link between the ignition and the rest of the car.

In terms of older cars, I own a 1992 isuzu rodeo. Engine swapped with a 95 camaro v6, and it's incredibly easy to work on. Alternator died, got it swapped out in 45m. Changed spark plugs in 30m. I need to change oil soon, but that's not gonna be a hard job. Other than that, it's a super easy thing to work on, and runs incredibly well.

lights are especially important if you plan on avoiding any unwanted attention from cops.

​@@callanc3925Yep, first and only time I got pulled over was because my headlight went out while driving.

in Colombia the cars own the road. Go ahead & be a pedestrian there

A lot of people forget to use them 😭😭

I've done a lot of brake jobs over the years. Every one of my cars has been 10yrs old or older. The only time I've seen water contamination cause poor braking is after a lot of hard braking. Usually on a race track, or hard braking in hilly regions. Otherwise, this won't happen in regular traffic. Are you sure there just wasn't air in the lines? I've ridden on like 4yr old fluid before, if not older. Only seen an issue during component failure, or air in the lines caused by an empty reservior. Maybe your customer just topped off the fluid after air was already intorduced? Water doesn't compress, so I don't see how its even possible for 6% water contamination to cause any brake issues unless the water got so hot it turned into vapor. From my experience, the only thing brake fluid flushes saves you is potential component fatigue. However, I'll do my first caliper, or master cylinder replacement after 20yrs, or 200k mi. I did have one steering brake line develop a bubble, causing a replacement need, but the car had 230k mi on it and the symptom was a pedal that slowly sunk to the floor when holding pressure. Nothing catastrophic. Overall, the only time I see a need to fret about water contamination in brake lines is on the race track. By the time an owner starts to see the impact of neglected brake fluid flushes, they'll have a slew of other old car problems on their hands. The types who actually care about this scheduled maintenance are the same ones who keep a full receipt book and log of all maintenance done to the vehicle. I'm a 3rd and 5th owner guy. Anyone who buys the car from me is turning it into a racecar for lemons, buying it for parts, or flat towing it to mexico. Until then, I'll just keep maintaining my vehicles. A dead main fan relay, or low oil level is far more concerning to me than any brake fluid hydroscopic obsorbsion. Cheers.

​@@christopherlowery855agreed.

Oh yeah its definitely important that there is very small amount of water in the brake fluid. 6% is something that stops the lines in car manufacturer plant. At least back when I was doing summer job over in their lab 2 years ago and I tested the brake fluid to have around 8% of water, lines were stopped at once. Every car who got brake fluid from that tank had to be refilled. Real limit is around 0,5% if I recall right.

Even the brake fluid bottles say "recommended replacement: 24 months"

Bro the sad thing is? It's not even 10-15 seconds. It's about 3-4 seconds. I'd know, I timed myself when learning to Stop my Motorcycle without putting my feet down (in an empty parking lot ofc, yes it had stop signs, but literally no one was there, totally flat, I'd see if some1 came). The difference between me rollning the stop vs. me stopping completely was as short as 3-4 seconds. A lot of beginner motorcyclists never remove the habit of rolling cuz they're so scared of stalling, but NGL that one practice session I did years ago, has literally saved my life multiple times without me knowing. It ain't ever worth running/rolling a stoplight, especially if the other asshole there does too. Then you get a collision.

Coming to a complete stop decreases fuel economy, so in my hybrid, I slow down to just before the disc brakes kick in and roll at that speed (which is plenty slow to actually stop if needed). I also don't like how it jerks when the brakes are wet when it switches from regen to disc brakes. Also, you have to creep for visibility anyway, so why even bother fully stopping when you can't even see the objects the stop sign is trying to get you to look for? Also, I'm pretty sure a hybrid can be driven instantly from turning on, since the engine isn't even running when you turn it on anyway.

@@blisphul8084 I think 3 mL of fuel is worth the potentially life saving moment of coming to a full stop. Its not so much about a full stop being necessary to assess the situation, its about forming good habits rather than bad ones. The more flexible the rule, the more likely you will just ignore it entirely. If you make a habit out of rolling through stop signs you will generally be less careful

@@callanc3925 how do you actually get in the right spot for a full stop anyway? Like, visibility is limited many times, so you have to creep forward anyway. May as well make one smooth creeping motion rather than stopping, then going, then potentially stopping again. It allows you to keep your foot on the brake the whole time, making it safer imo, as long as you keep it under 5mph, which if you collide at that speed, it's just a paint scratch.

@@blisphul8084 You stop behind the line always... as the law requires you to do... "It allows you to keep your foot on the brake the whole time" but coming to a complete stop requires you to take your foot off the brake? Its not about stopping in the right spot, its about stopping at all so you dont get into the habit of rolling through dangerous intersections. I dont get how thats so hard for you to understand or why you keep trying to justify it so poorly. If you collide with someone at a stop sign it doesnt matter what speed youre going, they will likely be going the speed limit, which is why you have a stop sign. You can very easily total your car by "colliding with someone at that speed"

That’s why I love my ‘04 manual corolla.

You'd be surprised at how many late 90s Hondas are getting stolen even today. No keyless entry and not even particularly desirable, and it still happens.

except you can hotwire older cars, they're easier to steal

My thoughts exactly. bought a 2005 buick century for this very reason and it hasn't been stolen yet.

​@Sykozona depends on how old they are. General rule of thumb is if they have security systems, so most cars starting in the mid 90s, you can't hotwire.

Key to that is understanding whether you have an interference engine or not. Non-interference engines will just halt when the belt fails. Interference engines will inhale themselves before chewing themselves apart.

I have a non interference, im almost curious what happens if it snaps

​@sigmamale4147 the engine will halt, and won't start again til it's been retimed and the belt has been replaced. Still not a good idea either way.

nah, he probably doesn't even know that term, He ended up blaming Honda instead of himself.

@@BladedAngel damn well I guess you tried to warn him, he didn't listen, you can't really do anything more 😹

@@queefyg490i know this is random, but what is your favorite car brand?

This is one of two rubber things u shouldn't cheap out.... Also go check your brakes, if they don't have sensor in it.

@@mateuszzimon8216 is the other rubber thing a "jacket for richard"

@@scottish_lunatic exactly what I mean

I literally always make sure my tires are in good shape. Mainly because I like to take turns at speeds so its important for me to make sure my tires have plenty of tread and are inflated to correct Cold Tire Pressure everytime I get new tires, I have a mechanic check my car out, and when it gets very cold. Everytime a mehcanic fill my tire up, they always overfill it and make the drive hard over bumps.

I wish I would've known sooner. When I got my first car I was very excited. I took it to a tire shop so they could check the tires pressure before I went to my home which is one hour away....the guy checking it thought he was tripping because the tires pressure were 95 88 and I don't remember the rest...the guy was hella surprised I was driving around in that condition.

I have a question, are you still in driving school if so, can you chose any car to drive as a student driver or the instructor going to specifically chose only a car for you to drive as a student driver

Everything goes in comparison. There are multiple sizes of SUV's (duster > santa fe > prado), and generally a middle-sized ones got greater trunk space of any sedan or most of hatchbacks. Greater height gives much more suspension clearance, whenever you feel it or not. They are generally heavier - thus, hardened suspension - but it's kind of a must, if your general consumers do go to clover leaf intersections with 20cm ground clearance 2-ton beast at 60-80 km/h. SUV's are kind of.. Comfy, but not specifically in a comfort sense. Idk how to call it

​@axnnaandmikeyplayz5044 I'm not OP ofc. But I took driving school a little over a year ago now (in Idaho) and I chose to just to with the highschool drivers Ed. But all of the drivers Ed places around here are the same. They all have a car or 2 already made for just the class modified with the front right passenger (the instructor) having brakes. They also all have a giant yellow top that says drivers Ed so yeah. You can't bring a car. At least here.

​@@axnnaandmikeyplayz5044if you take the test at the DMV (Department of Motor Vehicles, different name in other states), you test with your own vehicle. They don't provide one. It used to to be that your parents could opt for the homeschool drivers ed. I don't know if that still exists today, but that's how I was taught. We did the studdying at home, then took the written test to get a permit. After so many hours, you go back to the DMV to test for a license. Parallel parking is what scares most. Its easy once you know how. Best of luck on your driving education. I hope this answers your question.

@@axnnaandmikeyplayz5044 i usually drive the ones at the actual driving school when im there, since they have the passanger side pedals, but we're also allowed to practice with parents in our own cars and such if they have had a licence for at least 5-ish years

😂 that's ridiculous, it's literally so easy... I feel like the insurance companies just want to make sure you ARE maintaining your vehicle, rather than insuring one that is not maintained at all. At a mechanic, you have proof.

I’ve had my car for 12 years with no issues. Is this a wives tale? My previous car drove solid for 7 years before my wife decided to trade up.

​@@datl3afn1nja9it might be more relevant for colder places? But engine temperatures are also a lot higher than ambient, so i dunno. Consult your manual.

If it gets below 0°F out, I'll wait a couple minutes because it takes that long for the revs to come down. But in warmer weather, no more than a minute ought to be fine

i use the excuse of "i'm waiting for google maps to load" or take a long swig of water to pretend im wasting time

Modern cars now are fine to drive straight away from cold as long as your not revving the crap out of it.

In hybrid cars, it's very common for the engine's first start of a drive to be during acceleration. just don't be super hard until the temperature needle moves and you'll be fine.

What about letting a car engine cool off after driving fast and hard in the freeway for a long drive? Like, what if you drive for multiple plus hours, driving 10-15 MPH over the freeway speed limits, with lots of full throttle bursts? How long should you let the engine cool off before turning off the car? I know you shouldn't immediately park and turn it off, right?

@@CharlesLawsonSermons Since you run you run your engine close to idle during maneuvers to park, around 5 to 10 sec is fine before turning it off.

@@CharlesLawsonSermons If its a turbocharged car leave it 60 seconds before turning it off, Toyota actually recomends this in my owners manual too! If its NA I don't think its too important.

@@gravemind6536 The most important for turbo engines is to turn it off unclutched cause it will immediatly stop the inetia of the engine and so stop the oil pump immediatly and so the turbo will do its last rounds without oil pressure.

I’m sorry that happened, and I hope everything is better 🙏🏾❤️

Not sure about Tesla, but RAM 1500 requires it only once a year. Not big deal

@@AK.__ If you have a RAM 1500, remember to swap out your cup holder fluid with a non Anheuser-Busch product before you drive. You don't want to add being woke to your DUI charges.

@@PURENT I think, you're confusing with some old cars. Bosch I put only as a windshield fluid. The cupholder doesn't have a fluid, it is literally holder with heating / cooling option and it illuminated, so it simply for a cup or small thermos. So I have Hemi 5.7L, maybe TRX has some cup holder fluid, not sure.

That thing is a champ!

I appreciate it :D

They have a car because they want to get somewhere else, i can kinda see why. But also cars are expensive as dicks so they better treat the expensive steel box with *some* respect.

I had a 2001 Chevy Tahoe that did something similar in the cold except the pistons would rattle until it warmed up to a reasonable temp.

Yeah i realized that after noticing oil was consuming quickly. My thermostat was stuck open and the engine couldnt warm up properly

looks pretty bad when your expensive car's key is wrapped in literal aluminium foil

@@servissop151 nah, i mean like the inside of a box. So you put your keys in the box that is wrapped with aluminium foil on the inside

Because it's not a hobby, it's an everyday tool... that's the whole reason why. Same things happen with computers, phones and such. If you're an enthusiast of course you're going to care. But most people aren't car enthusiasts, they're USERS.

@@naumen6508 yes but at least you should know how to do basic preventative maintenance on your car

The only detail that matters is the sequence of handbrake and putting an AT in park and you got that backwards. Put on the handbrake before you put in into park to save wearing out the parking pawl, not after. It doesn't matter on a flat road. If you are on a hill you don't want your parking pawl to be taking the weight of the car, you want it on brakes.

@@mikeincanada_ You absolutely right. I missed that part. While leg is still pressing Brake pedal and AT is on Neutral , press Parking Brake (hand or leg) and then put AT to Park. Although this is important, whole car starting / shutting down "ritual" matters. Similar to athlete's body starting of completing distance run.

Yep

Doesn't cold water do the job without breaking your windshield?

@@servissop151 Or, now hear me out, start your car 5-10 minutes early, blast your defrost and the use an ice scraper to push the snow/ice off. The defrost does the hard work for you.

I'd love to see someone with a disabled-license-plate-lifted-pickup-truck moving cars parked in a disabled reserved parking spot.

Parking your car properly in the parking spot is the low hanging fruit of being a decent human being.

As much as some people need it, that's really not something he should HAVE to make a video on. If a car owner has enough sense to read their owner's manual or ask the dealer, then they can expect appropriate intervals for their model.

You can just read the maintenance schedule for your specific vehicle and have a lot of important information. I downloaded a PDF of my exact car's manual, so I can just search for specific words.

Honestly I didn’t even consciously wait for the RPM to come down. I just start the engine, do my rounds of seatbelt, AC, Bluetooth and by the time I’m ready to drive the car is ready.

Soooo cars last 10 years with proper maintenance then.

@@naumen6508 Mine's lasted 14 years, I was trying to say that he was underestimating how long cars could last, and that if you keep up with maintenance they can actually last even longer than 10 years.

@@sambrown6426 Oh most definitely, I was just being a smartass. Please keep driving this mariner until it snaps in half, we need more people like you. I'm tired of people who use cars as consumables.

@@naumen6508 That is exactly my plan, and I completely agree with you that people are using cars as consumables.

Another super worth it anti theft device is a steering wheel lock. Costs like $20 and makes it abundantly clear to anyone walking by that stealing your car is way more of a hassle than most of the other cars nearby.

I park outside and there is a section that never getys sun. It has moss. And I drive it regularly.

They're not going _into_ homes to scan for the key-- they're trying to pull the signal through the walls.

There not going in the house they stay on the outside and pull away 30 seconds later

If the car is overheating first thing and easiest thing to do is stick the heating on full blast to take heat away from the cooling system, then you refill coolant and take it to the nearest repair shop as you clearly wanted them to. No car should ever use coolant its a sealed pressurised system so it should not be able to makes its way into the engine to be burned. The only reason your car didn't go bang was the fact it was a Diesel which can handle high tempretures better than a petrol car and the fuel is more of a lubricant. I've limped many overheating commercial vehicles back to base by sticking the heating on full blast.

​@@gravemind6536I had this problem once, wirh a manual Camry, I knew I needed a whole new radiator and my boss had gotten me one from a junkyard, I blasted the heater to get it to my boss' business 20 years ago in the summer in Florida, it was hellish but it does work.