Thank You :).

Amazing work! Thank you Master!

bonsoir pouvez vous me donner les références de la fraise pour faire les queues d'aronde s'il vous plaît merci cordialement Alain

Yesss sir 👍

So o

Very nice

@@vishwanathparange4672 x UV 7 CCVu,b , c

❤❤❤

😊👍👍👍

Fantastic idea

😊😊👍

❤❤

lmao

I tried the Whiteside 13/16" inch(20.5mm) bit and it made a big difference. I noticed that he used a 1/2"(12.7mm) bit on the last example. My bit did not do very well and could not take the stock in one go. I have another bit from another set and I will try that today. See if it makes a difference. Dimensioning is very important to consider when doing this. If you look at the bowties from the front and placed vertically the dimensions are determined as follows. Height is double the height of your bit above your router table. This is determined by the depth of your test cut as he notes. I would determine this dimension based on whatever your stock thickness is minus whatever you want for your blind. In other words on 19mm stock you might leave 3mm for the blind. That would mean your dimension would be 13mm. This can be whatever works for you in what you are trying to do. The width is always going to be the width of your dovetail bit period. The best way I have found to do this is to rip your width exactly to that dimension. In my case this is 13/16. In this manner you can register the bottom of the bit with the face of the router table fence by placing a very thin straight edge flat on the router table and pushed up against the fence. You can then register the bit against the ruler by moving the fence forward or back. In this way there is a zero cut at the base of the bit and leaving your dimension on the top and bottom untouched from what you ripped. The depth of the dovetail is determined by the thickness of any stock that you are cutting vertically.

By the way, he does not show it but the reason he chisel trims the dovetails on the first example is that this allows the dovetails to recess over the the ugly semi circle at the termination of the router bit cut. This is a brilliant idea. Not sure if it was his. I think those half circles are very ugly when you see them on drawers done with machined dowels.

Thank you for this! This will be extremely helpful information as I'm going to *hopefully* undertake this This weekend

@@Gressyjam Hi Jesse. I read through my notes and noticed a mistake. On 19mm stock (3/4") I would leave 4mm for the blind. I was getting a little cracking at 3mm. Perhaps it was the wood but I felt it a bit too thin. So 19-4 = 15mm for the height of the router bit and 30mm for the height of the dovetail(bowtie). Typically if I take 19mm stock, it ends up 17mm. If I leave 4 mm for the blind that leaves 13mm for the height of the bit and 26mm for the height of the dovetail. This worked out perfect for me and the way I will do it going forward. If I went with 1/2 stock I would get a different dovetail bit for that.