Hi Darren, Thank you, I need to make another video that shows both sides of it. I made an exhaust that attaches to the manifold to help keep our atrocious woodworking clean. I really enjoyed building this one, the instructions and parts layout are not the best but if you've ever worked on a full sized engine before the real struggle is to make your hands small enough for this one 😉. Thank you for commenting and I'm glad that you enjoyed it 👍

Thank you John, I apologize for how long it took me to get it done and share it with all of you.

Thank you, I need to make an update video on this engine now that it has some run time on it and has began to break in a bit. I started it today (after reading your comment) and noticed how different it sounds now vs. the video. Thank you for your interest and commenting and for watching 👍

Thank you. This was a great model to build, thank you for offering it to us.

And in return they’re lifespan is like 50 percent shorter

@@123hotrods6 Nah. Much longer. Glow fuel has a shitton more lubricant in it and the ignition timing isn't off int he rhubarb anymore. They also run cooler because methanol based fuels burn a lot cooler than gasoline does; you can get away with not using the radiator at all on 0% RC plane fuel if you don't have a load on it!

Hi 133, check your firing order, 1-3-4-2. Pay no attention to what the ignition box says, check to see what it spits out 👍.

Thanks man. -Yes sir, that’s one of the 1st things I did after seeing Dennis’s video while getting my ignition set up.

I also installed the rcexl unit but it wasn't until I swapped wires 2 and 3 that it would run, odd because it shouldn't matter. Anyhow after a lot of tuning and breaking in it runs great now. I would advise that you change oil often because the crankcase gets flooded with fuel easily when making all of these adjustments. Oh btw you will have to add a 10k pull up resistor between signal and positive on your hall sensors. You probably have that all figured out by now.

@@larryb728 I also have the RCEXL ignition, man. Cison modified their CDI, to now not have the external ground wire. I bought one for my FL4 and it runs so much better now with the new Cison ignition. Also have the L4 OHV… what an engine!!

@@larryb728 Also agree on multiple oil changes… once I changed the oil over 6 times through getting my engines broken in, it stays a lot cleaner. I’d love to see your FL4 running!

I have purchased a stronger starter motor. If you need it, please contact the dealer. I can provide it for you free of charge

Hi Bernt, I found that the proper firing order is 1-3-4-2 according to the valve timing. And when viewed from the front of the engine the rotation is clockwise. I do apologize for how long this little bugger took for me to share with you all, but I tried to show (roughly) what to look out for and try to help others if I could. I really do like the dual 6 volt battery setup, I have yet to burn up a starter motor. I don't know if I can help you in any way with your engine but I will try my best. Thank you for your interest, your comments, and your interest in keeping this little hobby going. Once again, you guys are the best "steam crew" anyone could ever ask for 👍

Hi again, I ordered 4 new spark plugs last night, newer expected the ignitionbox to be mislabeled, will check mine asap. Will try to turn inn the needle much more also. I like the idea to test methanol with ignition also. Thanks for great inputs and tips ! Bernt....

Hi, I went out to check firing order, wonder if my box is ok ? By rotating the pully w.magnet I get mostly fiering in pairs ,but sometimes 3 plugs at once and sometimes no1 does not fire. Is the system made to fire the plug every rotation? The pic on the box shows a north and south magnet, some systems use this to tell where the first cylinder magnet is. Maybe my box is just junk. Also turned the needle all the way in , it still moved bubbles in the fuelline. How far out should the brass fuel inlet needle holder gå in to the carburator ? Before you stop with the nut. Well, more testing.

@@bjornamanda Hi Bjornamanda, I noticed on this one that they do fire in pairs but not in the pairs one would think (mine was 1 & 3 and 2 & 4) which won't allow this engine to run. So I used 3 on 4 and 4 on 3 making 1 and the "new" 4 fire as a pair and 2 & the ”new” 3 fire as a pair. As for the pairs firing every 180° it should not affect the paired cylinder as it is a wasted spark on the exhaust stroke. I'm sure I rambled on too much about this , but I hope my rambling will help you 👍

@@steam212 Thanks for taking time. I will test this tonight, sometimes it seems to fire 3 at the same time also, I will check. Bernt

I found using lighter fluid on my microcosm engine ends up degrading the rubber seals fast, but definitely much cleaner , cooler and faster response. Although I used VP racing 50:1 and it performed great without any smoke

w' ?

I think that is a great idea, my only issue is finding a helper that would be willing to work terrible hours for even worse pay. I completely understand what you mean though. If you're willing to "volunteer" your time and abilities, you're welcome to stay in the shop loft. 😉

@@steam212 :D No probs volunteering, but I thing the travel cost will be prohibitive... Better idea: Send me your stuff and I'll do it for free :D :D :D (just kidding). I typically do it alone but my video's are not of your quality... But it literally saves hours.Two engines that were ABSOLUTELY NOT designed to run on gasoline, but both succumbed to this approach in mere minutes: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/pJ6Hmoyrf2plzHk.html ukposts.info/have/v-deo/bl1zgXyQoIODmX0.html

I don't have a Toyan model to compare this with. I was very happy with the quality of this kit and the finished model. If I had to fix anything about it I would improve the assembly instructions so they were more than a QR code, a more proper radiator, and a set of mounts when completed.

Hi Larry, That is great news. I very quickly gave up on the factory carb and installed one from RC engine which helped incredibly. If you look at the model I did, you may notice that I am not running the factory plug wires (I like the look of cloth braided wire) and I had these silicone boots on hand so that's what I used. If you watch the videos on the twin cylinder tractor I have had issues with the black "plastic rubber" boots before and not to mention the issues with the factory plugs being, well, terribly made

Thank you, I'm glad that you like it 👍

I'm not familiar with what G5 plugs are (I always used F plugs on 4 stroke nitro engines). You're right about nitro being a mess, but it smells great 😉. I think that the promotional videos have had plenty of time and factory assistance to provide the short clips. Trust your gut, knowledge, and training.... The raw parts are there, but this is honestly a "builders model". I still think that there are a few things that I want to improve on 007. Maybe it's just me, but an engine that runs, but does not run well is not a well built and/or tuned engine. Take your time 133, there's nothing you can't accomplish with patience and a steady will. 👍

Thanks for your kind words & encouragement, Steam. So about 30 min ago, I tried an idea I had w’ my FL4…. Don’t wanna jinx myself, but I think I’ve got it solved, dude. I just ran 3 full tanks of fuel and it ran spot-on & close to perfect with the Cison ignition setup. Gonna test it once more in the morning, and will definitely report back. Seems like everyone who bought the FL4 has had major issues and has resorted to glow plugs. G5 glow plugs are somewhat new OS technology; they are essentially a glow plug that can run glow or gasoline. They look just like the type F plug, but guessing the plug element is adapted for gasoline -

G5 is a gas plug, would prolly be better on Fs. And honestly it may not even be an ignition thing at all. It may be the carb. For some bizarre reason they keep trying TN carbs on gasoline which just does not work. TN carbs do not like to meter such thin AFRs! I bet CDI/methanol would be the best setup for one of these engines unless you were to put a gasoline-specific carb on the thing.

C6, I definitely agree with you on the carb being a big issue and you’re right; these carb’s air fuel ratio aren’t correct for gasoline. Using the Cison carb, I’ve got the main needle set only at 1/4 -1/8 open. Slow needle open 3/4 to 1 turn. The Cison carb is super sensitive. I wished the needles atomized fuel better. The carbs I’ve tried are: VX18, OS 10ER, M.Speed mod 10ER, Enya 11CX ultra, an OS .25 air bleed, and a rare HPI .15SS billet slide valve. The .25 air bleed & modified 10ER worked pretty well. I made some good progress though last night… once I run it a bit more I’ll follow up and make some vids of how it’s running

@@mhz-yn9gh My Microcosm engine barely even runs because of it. The taper on the needles needs to be way WAY more gentle for them to work with gasoline, either that or the thread pitch needs to be exceedingly fine. I think these flathead fours would prolly run best on spark/methanol. The nitro seems to perk them up quite nicely as one might expect, but straight methanol would prolly run quite nicely on spark ignition. Added bonus, cooler combustion, so the radiator has less work to do. If I had one I'd probably just feed it my standard RC car fuel. 20N 12O. The oil blowby wouldn't hurt anything in the bottom end and I could easily drill a PCV bung if I wanted to. You can get car fuels down to as little as 6% oil, too.

Hi Larry, I'm not sure if I addressed the tappet cover hole or not in the videos, but that needs to be left open, it is for crankcase ventilation, if you were to plug it off the crankcase pressure would need somewhere to escape (most likely pushing the crank seals out). What configuration did you do for your piston rings? The firing order is 1342 and there is a waste spark on each rotation (exhaust valve open) the coil fires 2 plugs at the same time, make sure (regardless of what the numbers on the coil say) that the proper pair are firing the proper cylinders (mine was not). I'll be glad to help you get yours figured out. Any questions Just ask. Thank you for your question and thank you for watching 👍

@@steam212 Wow, Thanks Steam! 10-4 on the crankcase ventilation and as far as rings I went with the two cast iron set. Also I have seen others talk about the Cison cdi unit being mislabeled on the firing order and have swapped wires on 3 and 4 but still no love. As I stated earlier, I believe the valves are leaking because I can remove the spark plugs and hold my finger over the hole while cranking it over and it just doesn't seem up to par. A tiny compression gauge would be cool if such a thing were available. Another thing I noticed last night is that the top hall sensor on the pickup unit works correctly as I spin the front pulley but the lower one works intermittently. I know that replacement pickup units are available from StirlingKit but Doggone the wait... I have picked up little tidbits of info about the engine watching you and Dennis Dempsey and scouring the internet for anything else. One is that the spark plug wire doesn't actually touch the spark plug connector. I have mine cut off and pushed in on top of plug. Another is that the you align magnet with bottom hall sensor when timing the engine. Am I wrong so far? Anyhow Thanks again for your help.

@@larryb728 I set the timing on mine by rolling number 1 to JUST (I mean maybe 3°) before top dead center on the compression stroke and then adjusted the front pulley to fire number 1 and tightened the pulley.

Hi Rick, I have a few hours on it now, it seems to have broken in nicely. I think it runs really well. I'll have to make an update video on it in the future. I did make a short video and posted it but I'm not sure how to tell you where to find it, maybe if you search through my videos it "should" be there. Thank you for your question and for watching 👍

@@steam212 I’ve been meaning to ask you, Steam, -when you swapped your high-voltage wires over to the braided leads, did you splice them or open the CDI unit, and de-solder, / re-solder? I have been wanting to do my CDI, and was guessing you probably opened your CDI unit and resoldered the braided leads. I’ve always heard HV leads shouldn’t be spliced. Love to know what your method was; I’ve got my wire from PM research 🤙

@@mhz-yn9gh Sorry for the late response 133, if you strip back 1" on both leads, and join them with a good solder joint leaving less than 1/3 the diameter of the insulation, wrap them with dbt (direct burial tape) and then finish the splice with heat shrink you'll be fine. Just remember that electricity will always take the path of least resistance. .040 of insulation will not arc when .015 is closer 😉

@@steam212 Thanks for your response, Steam… didn’t know that it was ok to splice, and glad to learn that I don’t have to solder them directly at the CDI 🤙👍 The PM Research braided HV wire looks killer with the clear coating so it won’t get dirty 😁

I appreciate your approval, and look forward to building the next engine kit that you offer. Sponsorship positions are available 🤞😉

Hi Pablo. You're right, if you have a chance to look at the other comments

Hi William, we're using 94 octane fuel now. This is a flathead engine with 2 cast iron rings, and flat top pistons. I highly doubt that the compression ratio is anywhere close to 10:1. What would you recommend?

Yes, it is working

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