Totally agree with you on that.

So true - it's somewhat infuriating to have to scrub through most videos to find out if you're actually interested in what they're making.

Traducción x favor

@@robertovallejos9531 May use Google Translator...

I also like that he's not using video titles like "You HAVE to build THIS!" or "You definitely NEED THIS!" without any clue what the heck is shown in the video 😊

i completely agree sell these jigs a lot cheaper than the larger machines for the home owner

My thoughts exactly. But seeing as it's already been 7 months, I bet someone in China has already begun selling replicas!

Im ready to buy some.

Depth adjustment is easier with a router. The electric planer finishes work quickly.

I've used one this way for a while, with linear rods/bearings. But this system JSK-KOUBOU made has a lot more variety of use.

I believe router would be better if the panel had great inconsistencies. That would be annoying to fix with a plane and require many passes.

@@maw9812 ... it would need a great deal of inconsistencies to make the router mire optimal. I use both, but over the past 2 years, I'm using the planer more. It has WAYYYY better dust collection, and a cleaner cut. (I use the Bosch 2632 with the 3 carbide blades for smaller items.) Plus, having over a 3inch sized blade requires a lot less passes overall. And a lot less sanding afterwards as it looks like it cane through a autofeed planer, but without any chatter. Another big issue is the bit vs blade cost. I can buy 3 carbide blades, with dual edges (6 new blades) for around $10 (USD) whereas a decent, bottom clearing (spoilboard) router bit can cost me 7 to ten times that amount, and have a shorter lifespan. (However, if you buy a really good spoileboard bit with indexible blades, it will cost 20+ times as much initially. But, it will show EVERY single error in anything you use to measure squareness. I mean, 0.005" off on any of the parts of your entire system can make it a nightmare if you have dplintery styles of wood (like Oak, and especially Walnuts or Sapelle.) So, in the long run, a thickness planer is best... but if you have boards with widths like 25", you'll have to throw $10,000+ at them. So the planer rig jigs are great imo. (I use 20mm linear rails instead of wood arms like the video. But they , and the bearings need to be high end (like misumi) or they will have slop and move a bit on the shaft. And with a router or an electric hand planer , that can be dangerous and cause a kick if not careful.)

@@jisakukobo and less dust

True!!! :)

Nope, just for content. I'm furniture canpenter for over 20 years.

Thanks

Agree. I've flattened a few thousand board feet of raw 8/4 lumber building doors with my router sled. This would have saved me tons of hours. I will use this method from now on. Good bye router sled.

I would say near 100% chance he is an engineer. I've watched enough videos to know it goes beyond just being a "go getter / creative" type. Just too many different techniques to pick up randomly, almost certainly trained.

thank you for always watching my videos !

watch this ukposts.info/have/v-deo/sod5ZKFpoKtlynU.html

EXACTLY. I just spent $450 on a 12" planer, & then got COVID again. I couldn't work for a month, & the 1st time I used it? The blades chipped. I had no idea it was even possible to stabilize a hand planer this way. (I've only been building for 2 years, & have been learning on my own.) I'm SO grateful to the creator for sharing these videos with us!