Remember to heat the joint, not the solder. Apply the solder on the opposite side of the heat and let the solder run to the heat. As well, if possible, do all sanding before you cut the pipe. Finally, don’t touch the pipe where you sanded with your skin. You will transfer oil to the pipe and “dirty” the contact point of the solder.

I have been Staybrite for 30 years on residential HVAC. A quick check of their website shows the tensile strengths far in excess of the pressures on the lines. I'm glad you demonstrated it.

I've used it for 40+years.... Best to put the heat at the bottom of the the female joint warm up and add the solder at the top feed it in until it bulges out the bottom..... Wipe with a wet rag and done... Excellent product.... Glad your using it.

This method and demonstration is a game changer for hesitant DIYers. Thanks.

I have been using that product and method for over 25 yrs. Nice job.

At one time I used a induction heater (no flames) to solder copper pipes that where next to a wooden wall. Solder melted a lot cleaner.. Makes better looking connections.

Has worked for me for 20+ years. Can't argue with results.

i've used this a few times, you're right about the solder not liking gaps, its very runny

Had a customer try this on a walk in cooler. He got solder in the tx and the solenoid body. Pricey repair.

I've been using this since I've started in HVAC 20 years ago and I agree this is better in all residential situations. StayBrite 8 has high tensile strength

I used this stuff 6 years ago installing my new furnace and AC and the system has yet to need any service. Nice that a home owner can save some seious money like i did.

Wow! It's so great that you finally made this video. I've been waiting for this one for a long long time.

One of my fears with using a solder instead of a braze is that since solder has a greater difference from copper than the standard silver rods, a wet and corrosive environment could allow electrolosis to eat away the solder. Ice-O-Matic's copper evaporator plates fall apart very quickly because the solder they use corrodes away much faster than the braze that Manitowoc uses. So I would say be mindful of this possibility when environmental conditions are rough.

I started using that in 1984. Works great great

My only suggestion is to braze the furthest joint first (the suction line on your first example) so that you are not reaching over a hot joint to reach another. This is more important when working on several connections at a time.

Good work. Easy to follow. The communication pace is perfect!

Only thing I use when ever possible. I used Staybrite 8 on a 1 1/8 shut off valve for a trane chiller holding 850 pounds of R134a, 5 years later and still no leaks. I use it every where except at the compressor.

Nice video. I always remove the nuts and fill the well in the valves with water before wet wrapping. Thanks for the nitrogen nod. Nitrogen purging is in every manufacture’s installation manual and yet so many people are surprised when they are exposed to it.

I have bee using this for 35 years in commercial refrigeration on both hi and low sides. Best use for this is to install txv’s or solenoid valves especially if they are brass. Your turbo torch tip was way too big in the first shot and flux is not needed inside the fitting. Been told by Harris reps that this joint will have a higher burst pressure than a brazed joint where the tubing is weakened and I can see why. Once on a project years ago at Merck Pharm plant this was an accepted alternate to brazing. They had some of the most stringent regulations of any place I have worked at. If you use this correctly this stuff is great.

Using it for years. Good stuff.

Grandfather started his own HVAC business in the 60’s. He always used soft solder and taught me to use it as well. Never once had an issue with it. I went to a technical school for HVAC just to get my license, and the instructors would get pissed when I’d tell them about soft solder and they’d would claim it wouldn’t work. Lol

Thanks for the video. I been using staybrite 8 for 3 years now .. just like any skill it requires patience and practice .. making sure pipes are cleaned inside and out. Don’t overheat the joint !!! Most importantly.. the weld is solid and clean. Don’t see myself going back to brazing any time soon.

Thank you very much for an informative video and info about the Harris products. MAP gas is not the same as MAPP gas. Mapp gas production ended in 2008. When you buy MAP, you're mostly paying for a yellow can. From wikipedia: "MAPP gas is widely regarded as a safer and easier-to-use substitute for acetylene. In early 2008, true MAPP gas production ended in North America when production was discontinued at the only remaining plant in North America that still manufactured it. However, many current products labeled "MAPP" are, in fact, MAPP substitutes. These versions contain mostly propylene with some propane, dimethyl ether is included as a 3rd ingredient in some versions.[1] [2]"

Something to remember is that the copper needs to be very clean copper to make solder properly hold and use light flux , light heat, and should only need to use the width of the outside diameter of the pipe in solder (1/2 inch of pipe uses 1/2 inch of solder ) 🙂

I use stay bright 8 also on installs. You should also wipe the joint off to get to any left over flux off.

I went to a hvac community college in Henderson, Nv., and they taught us to use solder, in copper connections… Thanks 🙏

Kinda looks like the amount of heat you would use on a water line ( plumbing) application. I may be wrong. If it is, this method is much better idea than brazing. I am a plumber and currently in HVAC school and just been trying to get as many pointers and different methods as possible. Thank you for this video. I had never heard of Stay Brite 8.

I always use an old Flux brush and wipe the joint when complete. Makes for a more professional looking joint. Believe me..... I've seen solder joints that looked like RAY CHARLES AND STEVIE WONDER did them.

In 7yrs I’ve only used staybright 8. Wet rag is definitely worth it. Get the spin swage too, works great. Everybody migrating to propress now.

Great video. Thanks for doing this Dave!

I've used and love it when you gotta sweat a TXV in. Low Temps help prevent the brass from overheating and lessening up the capillary tubes. I will say I have seen these fail easier under vibration. So I wouldn't recommend using it directly at the compressor if you ever do a change out. Also, like another comment said. Wipe down your fittings really well afterward. I've gone to units where the Flux wasn't wiped off, and it eats away at the copper. Then you'll start getting pinhole leaks.

Great information. I am going to try this out!!! Thank you.

When soldering you need to heat the parts, not the solder otherwise your joint may be cold (and weak). Keep that flame away from the solder. To clean the parts before joining use an abrasive pad for the male part and a brush for female. Don't scratch them with whatever you used. After soldering clean the flux residue with a wet paper towel, rag or anything. If left there will corrode the pipe or at the very least look bad.

Man another great vid for us diy'ers! Love when you break it down for what you know what diyers are going to have in their sheds! Thanks once again sir!!

Very nice, the more you practice the cleaner and neater your solder joints will be, you don’t need to apply so much heat as when brazing. The pipes shouldn’t turn black.

Have used stay brite for years and was used a lot in refrigeration equipment where you can’t use as much heat that is needed for Silphos

I’ve been using Stabrite 8 for almost 50 years,I use stay clean liquid flux in place of the paste.I braze the two fittings on the compressor but Staybrite on everything else,I use Map gas.

Do you clean the inside of the fitting also? Like plumbing

EXCELLENT WORK, THANKS FOR SHARING

Just finished installing a Goodman split heat pump successfully, but I did a few tests on the Stay Brite 8 solder connections first. Sanded both inside the fitting and outside of the pipe, and just fluxed the male end. Complete fail, and I tried it twice. When I reheated and pulled them apart, the solder only bonded to the male part of the pipe, the inside was completely void of solder except for a few specs here and there. Tried a third time on a new test piece with a THIN layer of flux on both the inside and outside and both were nicely covered with solder when heated and unsoldered. Your example might have worker because you put a TON of paste on the male which then probably oozed onto the female side, but that defeats the whole "keep flux away from the refrigerant" idea. Another thing I noticed when I soldered the liquid line at the air handler was a bead if loose solder at the bottom of the included 3/8" elbow at the air handler. I pulled it out before tightening the gasketed nut at the fixed orifice, but that was concerning. I made sure I soldered all the connections (extra filter/dryer on the liquid line, 7/8" 90 degree elbow and a swaged piece of 3/4" to 7/8" pipe on the suction) starting at the end farthest away from the condenser so that I could shake out any loose balls before the final solder, but I didn't see any. I also didn't over apply solder, tried to follow the 3/4" length for a 3/4" connection rule. Pressurized to 350 PSI with nitrogen and soaped the connections, then vacuumed to 40 microns and everything looked good. Time will tell. I highly recommend your last suggestion in the video where you flux both surfaces lightly, I would never flux only one side after my experience.

Great video I just tried it for the first time I did a few practice joints to get the hang of it . I think the biggest part of this is to have a clean joint and the right amount of heat with a tight joint . The only thing that scares me if you get to much solder in the joint does not sick and locks up a compressor not sure if this could happen

How does this do in the long run on 410 systems

That’s cool. Thanks for sharing this.

I see what you were talking about, love the demo. I need to start using mine

I have used the Stay Brite for years and with Zero problems. I have had units that were brazed in by someone else and the brazed joints all leaked and failed - so much for brazing. My Stay Brite Joints have lasted over 25 years and going. Yes, you have to prep and clean the pipes when using this or you will have problems - I am certain that is why folks have problems with this, they don't clean properly and are used to brazing where you don't have to clean as well some don't do any. Yes, use the right flux compatible and refrigerant friendly, no glob, try not (don't let) to let any flux into the line set, wipe off the outside of the lines once cooled down. Great video!

I could be mistaken but I believe all 410 condenser installation manuals refer to brazing refrigeration lines. You don't want Flux mixing with refrigerant. Obviously people have been soldering these lines. It could be an issue if there is a warranty issue. Not installed to there specs. By all means do what you're comfortable with just saying.

I have been using this product for years now with no problems. It has a tensile strength of over 10,000 psi. A Harris representative at an air show told me this product is actually stronger than Silphos . I only use mapp gas and it is very quick.

This Stay Brite 8 is Absolutely Fantastic ! I only use Silphos 15 if I have a larger Gap that needs to be filled.

much appreciated for doing this..! was always wondering what you thought about staybrite

Flowing nitrogen through your pipe stops Oxidation from inside the pipe... I would actually love to see a joint cut open and compared against a nitrogen joint. You don't use a pocket knife for deburring? Solder flows towards the heat because of a tiny vacuum/low pressure gap thats created by the heat expanding. Heat the male end first, and the move to the female and gradually bring the heat up. Your technique was spot on. Flame in left hand, solder in right. These video are excellent!

It’s all I’ve used for the past 10 years, no issues ever

did hundreds and hundreds like this - used a map gas torch rather than a turbo torch - nice job

Wipe off your excess solder with a towel while it's hot. Also not sure how well it works for hvac application, but in plumbing I was taught to brush the area down (after soldering) with flux while it's still very hot. This cleans all of those burn marks and what not. Then wipe it all down with a towel when you're done. $0.02. I'd still rather braze, but not having to use nitrogen is a plus, never thought about soldering hvac lines before.

Great video pal

A little off topic, but I noticed the nice white lineset insulation in the background. Is that factory provided with the line or available as a wrap? Seems much better than the old black stuff.

I had a refrigerant leak in a condenser tubing/fitting that I had soldered together (not too well) a few years ago. I told a tech about it. He said, “Braze it.” So I got my torch, brush, flux, solder and resoldered it, doing a better job of it this time. Pressure test: No leaks (PTL).

I have used StayBrite 8 and the white flux for 40 years. Never a problem

@The DIY HVAC Guy ... I like all the videos I have watched. But, how to do these things on a horizontal pipe? My fridge return line has a pinhole. I was going to cut it out and use a coupling you recommend. However, that return line is horizontal. And, do I have to vacuum the system? Etc? BTW, I have a cheap gauge that will be sufficient to recharge. I just have to get one of those clamps to attach that pierces the line. TY in advance!

Thank you for your videos. Been limping along with a 52 year old Bryant gas furnace in the basement. Have kept it going over the years. Must have been built well. Had to replace the fan motor and transformer a few times. Need new ac too. Thinking about getting a whole new Goodman system this spring and putting it in myself. Your videos are a massive help.

Can you use this on a 4 ton residential HVAC system 7/8 line set

Thanks for all time and effort you put to your videos for us newbies like me “apt tech” can learn every day. 🙏🏻💪🏼 quick question does this brite 8 and the flux can be use to braze when replacing a compressor too? Sorry is the question is to basic but Im just learning 🙏🏻

Stay-Bright 8 is great stuff. Your tip was waaay big for the size of lines you were soldering, and it appears you actually got the tubing a little too hot (very discolored when you were done. But otherwise, nice demo...

Did you release the refrigerant in the condensing unit before soldering?

What is the rated pressure that this is advertised to hold. Trying to complete a 410a job on a 40 ton unit. I may give it a try

Thank you for great idea! Can I use powerful soldering iron for this?

I've never tried it, but I am going too now. This product could not be any worse than using a push connect or a zoom Lock. Hell it might be stronger.

That's what I used When I installed A Brand New A/C 2 ton unit by Goodman...... 7-years ago......no issue but I did Vacuumed it and used Nitrogen

I am the manager of a R&D HVAC test facility. I can tell you we have used this in the past, however we stopped for a couple reasons. 1. It can/does fail under high pressures. 2. Joints can fatigue over time and the hold is less secure. 3. There have been joints that blew apart during testing (after being in operation for months) causing a loss of refrigerant and very dangerous situation. The copper will violently swing away from the broken joint and could hurt a tech or puncture a coil. We no longer use this for any test application. I wouldn't use this in a home where it is intended for long term use. However, I did want to say I do really enjoy your videos and appreciate the time and effort you put into helping others. Improving the tools and skills of those who install the products helps EVERYONE!

great job

great video thats the product i want to use. Should u sand inside the female ends of the fittings?

Staybrite 8 has always been a good product. A couple of tips for guys,1) wipe the excess flux after inserting the joint, 2) heat the pipe first, then move the torch to the fitting to draw in the solder into the socket. and of course if you have a large gap don't use solder, it not a good filler material like sil-fos 15

I see a lot of comments about using it in residential. But could I use it for commercial refrigeration? (i.e. coolers and freezers)

Remenber what he said, fitting and pipe must be straight and perfect I tried it in the past it’s ok except when things aren’t perfect and straight

My friend tried that couple of years ago and got alot of call backs luckily 410a wasn’t expensive lol

Just used stay brite for the first time and I am sold!

I have a 2 ton LGRED Minisplit to install in a few months on the new shop I'm building. Id prefer a more solid connection to the line set than using flare nuts. Staybrite 8 my just be the ticket I'm looking for.

That's good to know.

could you use this to fix leaks?

We used Staybrite 8 with an acetylene torch to heat it for decades....up until the use of 410a refrigerant and the higher pressures and temperatures that go along with it.... Staybrite 8 is certainly a much cleaner connection, but we found that it does not hold up well when making the freon line connections at the compressor itself... and it was just seemed easier to have 1 set of torches and brazing method for everything...

I've been using it for 25 years on everything but dissimilar metals and I think the biggest advantage is the way it flows down into the joint farther. 15 stick doesn't flow nearly as well and you have to worry about hydrogen embrittlement of the copper. Just my opinion

Anyone know if this technique can be used on other metals than copper? Copper to aluminum, aluminum to steel etc

Nice job

What about if i use staybrite 8 for solder a refrigerator?? The compressor and lines??

What are those copper lines called ? Condensing lines? Great vid.

This stuff is great for a diy. I assembled my system 2 years ago, works great no problem. It's as easy to use as a regular plumbing solder

I have nothing against Staybrite 8 for repairs on txv's, reversing valves etc, but you might want to check your equipment install manual before using it to install your outside unit. Most every manufacturer says it must be "brazed" when installing the condenser. The local and state inspector made a local contractor here re-install a whole subdivision for using Staybrite 8, because of the manufacturers instruction manual

Amazing video

Awsome presentation.

Thank you

Does it work on aluminum and copper? or only copper to copper?

Interesting product. I like the fact that you don't need an expensive oxy acetylene tanks and equipment. I noticed you didn't clean the inside of the fitting like you would with plumbing soldering. Looks like it may not be required or only needs cleaning if the fitting is really oxidized ?

What happens to the bead of flux on the inside? I would consider soldering, but no one ever answers what the acidic flux residue trapped inside does. If there's residue outside, it's inside too. Putting it on the male side doesn't matter, because a bead of flux is pushed inside as the solder wicks in.

Have you ever pulled Stay Brite 8 out of a txv? I have, which makes me wonder if it can end up in a compressor as well.

The penny trick is a first for me but a really good idea

I really like the look of that insulation on the suction line. Can you share the manufacturer and part number of that? Thank you.

Can this solder use on the compressor？

I use this Mapp Gas with a Turbo Torch Tip and does Wonders..🤟😎🤟

Can't understand for the life of me how HVAC guys don't use Staybrite 8 almost exclusively. The low temperature it flows at means that you don't have carbon build up in the pipes (no need for nitrogen purging) and you don't weaken the joined metals from high temperatures (annealing). You don't have to worry about cooking thinks in the vicinity such as service valves or plastic panels (unless the panels are really close by). Melting plastic surroundings is a big concern in domestic refrigeration repairs. Some people claim that it's weaker in areas of vibration. Can't argue that but my experience and manufacturers claims say differently. If your experience differs then use alloy brazing in areas of vibration such as compressor connections. Yes it's more expensive but the benefits mentioned earlier make it worth the extra cost to me. You do have to clean and flux. It's not forgiving to poor prep. Very forgiving to proper prep You do need tight fits because it flows very thin and that is a big reason many guys prefer alloy brazing because you can fill in some relatively big gaps. Another reason many guys prefer alloy brazing is because that's what they have been using for years. Reality is that our innate resistance to change is the biggest reason we don't want to try something different unless forced to do so and then often we wish we had done it sooner. That's how I felt after trying Staybrite 8 Btw, difference between Staybrite 8 and regular Staybrite is that Staybrite 8 is a little more expensive (20 buck basically) because it has a higher silver content which means it has a temperature "range" at which it will flow so you can (if you know how) use that ability to fill in gaps in minor loose fittings as it gets thicker at the lower tempeature flow point, whereas regular staybrite has a single temperature flow point.

Excellent video

You already have to have the nitrogen for pressure testing I’ve never understood why people make such a big deal about having to purge with nitrogen. Plus not having to deal with flux. To each their own.