Nice product and very thoughtful review. You have the ability to see the things that need tweaking and correct them while explaining what’s going on. These days many consumers would just get annoyed if their purchase didn’t work just right once assembled and would demand a refund and leave a snarky review. Your way gets a good end result and surely the company will address those areas of concern. They definitely selected the perfect person to objectively review their printer.

Thanks Mister :) AMAZING review. You have a really soothing voice!

This applies to most Anycubic printers. How to Permanently level the print-bed: 1) Remove leveling nuts, take print-bed off the Y-axis carriage. Take care with power connection. 2) Remove springs from leveling screws. Toss 'em if you want. Check leveling screws are secure to print-bed. Correct loose screws before proceeding. i3 Mega, loose leveling screws a common issue. Check leveling screws are perpendicular to print-bed, check that screws do not bind with holes in Y-axis plate. Holes in Y-axis plate benefit from being clean; counter-sink, break burrs. 3) Thread leveling nuts on leveling screws; run them on the leveling screws, but leave about 2 mm gap from print-bed. 4) Replace the print-bed onto the Y-axis carriage, adjust leveling nuts to 'rough-in' the print-bed level at about the same height the springs would have. Bed is now supported by leveling nuts on the leveling screws, rather than floating on springs. 5) Under the Y-carriage plate, install jam-nuts on the exposed section of the leveling screws, but only 'finger-tight'! 6) Pre-heat the bed, Manually level print-bed as per manual, 'loosely-tighten' the jam-nut as each corner feels right. 7) Allow the bed to cool, then re-heat. Re-check print-bed leveling, tighten the jam-nuts properly if all is well. Loktite Blue! After this mechanical leveling, mesh-leveling (25 samples) will account for any warp in the print-bed itself, but may be optional if your print-bed is flat. It takes over an hour (preheat, cooling to room temp, reheat) to do properly, but once set it will hold level, as long as the jam-nuts and leveling-nuts and screws are not disturbed. I had an i3 Mega X hold level for nearly two years with almost daily printing using the above technique; mesh-leveled twice during that time to fix bed-adhesion issues. I've not used Anycubic firmware in a very long time, I run Marlin 2.0, so I can't speak to mesh-leveling with the Chiron 'out of the box'.

Got mine yesterday and similar results to you. I’m pretty impressed with the performance out of the box and love the build volume compared to my Anycubic Mega. You’re setting up a nice workshop there. Love that table! 👍🏻

Great review! Very detail oriented and well laid out video! Thanks for passing the knowledge!

Real slick! You will find all kinds of things to make .. very nice

This is definitely one of the best reviews with explanations I have seen on the anycubic chiron. Thankyou

Interesting piece of technology, thanks for sharing.

I would love a 3D printer. Great video.

great review

That was awesome , first time I’ve seen one set up and getting the bugs out.l been watching for a while now and I’ve always wondered where the hillbilly comes from originally.

That is awesome! I've not used a 3D one yet!

The way you talk makes me feel like I am watching the Red & Green show. I am waiting for the jokes... *EXCELLENT VIDEO* I actually just bought the Chiron and wanted to watch it put together so I can prevent any mistakes upon setting it up. Thanks to you I feel confident about putting this beauty together. I am a mechanically intelligent person but, I think it's best to watch the old pro so I don't mess up my new toy.

Great video and review! I just bought one of these, and I'm still setting it up. Wondering where you get the anti-backlash nuts? Also, what speed are you printing at? Thanks!

Great review. I was wondering, how much space do you need (in the back) past the end of the frame?I have a CR 10 that needs several inches so want to make sure I have enough space between frame and wall. Thanks.

I bought this printer over a year ago. Here are some essential mods: 1: tmc2208 silent drivers - easy installation, will save your ears from high pitched wines. 2: metal bracing to make sure the z-axis doesnt wobble. If you are going to use the full volume of the bed this is essential (only cost my $7 in parts from Home depot) 3: e3d v6 hotend, the stock heater block is tiny, i dont think i got good extrusion with a 0.4mm nozzle until i replaced the stock block.

I have been looking for a good 3D printer, now I need to convince my wife that it is a good investment :-)

Dear Sir, Thank you for a great video! I just got a used one Chiron without the leveling sensor and the SD card, everything work but the heated bed just stay on the room temp, I have used Cura prepared a G code file for test print and reset XYZ zero position , however , the printer head moved up 4 inch and start printing ( I have used a heat gun to heat up the bed to made the system run), I have tried many times, would you please share some idea to help me. Many Thanks!

Very good and helpful video. Thank you! Did you ever buy those zero backlash nuts, and if so - what were the results and which nuts did you buy? Thank you again for a very good and informative video!

just bought this and have to say it aint that easy to get this thing running properly.I will check it over for lose screws etc. This video really helped me

Can you please give me some more details about the 0 backlash nuts, I have just got a Chiron, literally still in the box. Where to get them and how to fit them? Best regards 👍

I like how you described everything very precise. I’m at a point where I need a bigger build volume I have 5 cr10’s in my farm and I’m trying to figure out what the difference is between the Chiron and the cobra max everything looks the same except the price but that’s not the issue but you probably don’t have the anycubic cobra max I was just wondering if you got yours running the way you like? I’ll subscribe and look at your other videos. Thanks...I’m pushing 60 and I need something to do when I retire. If this world doesn’t collapse first

Where can I find the clamp rack you printed?? I'd love to have that in my workshop!!!!

One of your best videos yet. Will be looking into getting one of these. Will you come over and help me set it up?

I just ordered this printer and was wondering if you have a link to the 0 backlash nuts you used?

I wish I could have started using mine. Bed was DOA Does not heat up

Should I remove the auto levelling attachment after levelling?

which anti back lash did you get? do you have a link/video of installing them.

Great video, very entertaining watching St.Nick help me through setting up my printer! Thanks man!

ever fix the z banding?

Can you live stream some of your builds?

How strong is this material, do you know any physical props?

Can you share your clamp bracket please?

Holy Moly Molding Batman! Now I need to find space in my shop to add yet "another" tool... Boys and their toys ya'know :) Here... hold my beer

I was looking at the Ender CR-6 Kick Starter with auto-leveling for a while. I don't use my Ender 3 enough to justify replacing it. I had to replace half my rollers, because there was side to side bearing play which caused the bed to pop up and down out of alignment. Apparently it is a common issue with those bearing rollers. Once I got them all replaced, it did work better. I do find I have to reset the level regularly, so I wish I did have auto-leveling.

what exact parts did you use to fix the z axix issue

Is it 12 or 24v. 8 bit,dual z, and how does it compare to the cr10?

do you know if the 3D printer run on Fusion 360

*PRO TIP* - Always use LockTiTE on your hardware. Doesn't matter if it's a 3D printer or a kitchen chair. It will save you from the headache of hardware loosening up over time.