Why not use a correct tool

@@randyheinbaugh8238 Did you watch the linked video?

As long as you know. It’s a good way to bust a knuckle. And strip the flats off a fitting. I’m an old retired Stationary Engr. Boilers and HVAC and every other system in a Hospital, hi-rise, or ship.

@@gravitystorm61158 The message was clearly and loudly received. 😆

@@TheBrokenLife 👍👏 Yeah, I can be a pain in the a…ss. Retirement does that to you….

I'll have to keep that in mind for the future. Thanks!

Brilliant

Heat guns are dirt cheap and the blower makes them much more useful than a mere radiant heater.

@@Comm0ut Yea, but you'll go crazy holding it trying to get the epoxy to flow out completely, it takes a while

Whatever works! 👍

.. Make sense Essentially not needing to turn the compressor on it's side ...

A lot of people have commented about the Milton Vs. I fully intend to take a look at some. 👍 The synthetic oil is a good idea and something I never considered since my current shop rarely gets cold enough to give the compressor fits. My prior shop was an unconditioned detached building, which did upset the compressor, and I never even thought about changing oil types. I wish I had! The only compressor I've ever seen with a drain not at the exact bottom is my little 18V Ryobi, and it makes up for it by being so small it really wouldn't have been practical to put it anywhere but where they did. In your case, I suggest taking the path I just did on my DeWalt (a video from 2 weeks ago) and install an aftercooling and water separation setup between the compressor and the tank. It's better to just never have water in it to begin with if you can. Mine has been remarkably effective.

A fellow AVE subscriber I see 😉

@@A6Legit This Old Tony these days, but, yes... 😁 There are other reasons for it though.

That sounds like a good approach to it. 👍

Great idea - would love to show that rig drain sits on your compressor. 👍

Just bought one off of the internet. Thanks for the great idea and for the part number.

Thanks. I'm glad you liked it! I don't think I even considered the threads while I was doing that. I might have probably just taped them off if I had even thought about it.

Indeed, sir. All are well worth the time and the extra couple bucks. 👍

That's pretty much the exact same experience I've had with mine, except mine has metric threads for the filter body. Not long after this I changed out to a Solberg filter housing (more akin to a motorcycle filter) and then, like you, this also became my backup compressor. 😆 On my new compressor I did my water separation before the air ever hits the tank, so hopefully my tank and such will stay nice and rust-free for a good long time to come.

That's very kind of you to say. Thank you!

Oof... I've never had that happen, but I'd be pretty upset if it did.

@@TheBrokenLife Yes, I was so pissed I just closed the garage door and didn't open it for a month (the car got parked in the Winter).

Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks! I'm glad you found it helpful! 👍

Taking it apart showed what the problem was (collecting junk due to angle) and problem can be fixed permanently, not just a temp fix (new fitting only)

I have very nearly the same story with mine. It's always been too small for what I needed, but for the most part it always got it done. For what it cost, I couldn't have done better.

I confess I didn't think a single thing about it at the time. A good safety PSA for sure. 😁👍 Thanks for watching!

Thanks! 👍

Removing it will almost certainly fix it. I've had to do it to every cheap China compressor I've been around. As luck would have it, I just bought another compressor with another cheap regulator so I'll probably be able to illustrate the issue on camera soon. If you want to run a regulator, I suggest something that is meant for professional use, most likely with something like 3/4 or 5/8 inlet/outlet. I've had a Parker on my shopping list for a long time now and am hoping to have a bit of compressed air re-fit in my little shop soon-ish.

@@sheepdog3828 No problem. Sometimes I have a hard time keeping up with all of the comments myself and it's my channel. 😆 Also... I did buy that Parker I was talking about and it will likely be on the channel "soon".

Question from an absolute beginner: why _would_ you want or need a regulator? Seems like most tools would benefit from all the air the thing can deliver them.

@@fallingwater Some tools have a maximum pressure rating. In fact, _most_ tools do and its usually 90psi. That said... I've run plenty of my tools far beyond that with no real problems. For me, a regulator is mostly useful when doing something "delicate", like blowing dust off of something that may be sensitive or even inflating a small object. It would be very easy to explode something like a beach ball (maybe even a basketball) at 150psi, but not so easy at 10 or 20 psi.

I've had the head off of mine several times and, to my immense surprise, the casting is actually pretty nice. I don't think I could do much to clean it up that wouldn't be moving in the wrong direction. I've heard of guys cleaning up massive amounts of casting flash out of theirs though. Seems like its the luck of the draw. 🤷‍♂️

On the compressor that replaced this one I installed a separator before the tank which should help keep the entire system rust free.

The 5.0 is on the list, but it's way down on the priorities, unfortunately. ;)

Indeed... I had a period of about 2 years where if the camera was on, it was not going to go well. 😂

Thanks for watching it! 👍

Thanks for watching! 🍻

Stainless inserts are exactly what I was hoping to find on the market to replace that plunger with. I never got a around to shopping for any. I was hoping maybe something for corrosive gas might be available commercially?

Sounds like a product that would sell!

Many folks have mentioned the milton V series and I do plan to take a look at them. 👍

The threads on mine are M20, but that will vary by unit. I have never had a JB weld failure. I became a convert after I glued a radiator back together with that stuff and it went on to serve for 100,000 miles (about 5 years) until the car was scrapped due to rust. It's the only glue I've ever used that actually works. I've even machined the stuff. The key is to not be shy with it. The more, the merrier. You would break the housing before you'd break the glue. I confess that it took messing around to get it done. 😆 I considered a PVC setup, but I didn't trust it with the heat of the head. Ultimately, I replaced the entire thing with a Solberg unit, which is made of steel, and is made for air compressors. It's a really nice setup. I'm not usually a fan of K&N style filters. That said... I looked in the cylinder of my compressor after 16 years of running it with _no_ filter and its like new in there. I was absolutely shocked. I think pretty much anything you put on one is probably adequate. 👍

@@TheBrokenLife I'm lucky my old unit is NPT threaded. Mine has been this way for about 10 years in a mechanic shop and gets used weekly if not daily. The heat hasn't done anything I can tell. I meant to swap it out with metal. When I'm at the hardware store I just forget to grab the parts. Just happened to have that PVC part in the shop one day and looked at the compressor and the filter I ordered in the wrong size. Guess the planets were aligned and it happened to work. I like K&N on street stuff but only with a prefilter. Off road or really dusty I don't think they filter well enough. The filter was supposed to go on a valve cover so it wasn't like it was doing anything really important anyways.

@@user-neo71665 Whatever works, works. In all things, it's always better to be lucky than good. 😁 Usually I get neither. 😞

@@TheBrokenLife It's rare but run with it when it happens.

Indeed!

I'm way ahead of you, but our control systems will be a little different. 😁

Thanks! I appreciate it! Was just working on another old tool review today.

@@TheBrokenLife cool deal man eventually imma set up a UKposts I do small engine repair tool repair anything and lots and lots of landscaping. Basically I’ll do anything to make money.

@@P3ndulumSw1ng Cool! Good luck with it!

That's my thought too, but the thing pumps up radically slower now than it did before with no filter. I think if I had to do it over again (which... I might), I'd probably try to adapt a motorcycle air filter or something. Ya know, something with giant skulls or flames or knives or something cool. ;)

I'm glad to hear it! 👍

:)

You smoking crack or what

noticed that too...

Just like a pipe wrench, they inly effectively grip in specific directions

This is why he was cleaning the brass. But what’s so bad about an adjustable wrench? Which also have to be used the right way around.

An excellent upgrade!

Thanks! In truth, I never liked that filter housing and traded it for a Solberg housing. It's a bit more like an automotive style filter. I noticed no change in performance, but it looks nicer and is almost certainly more durable. Larger fittings are certainly a great upgrade, but 1/4" seems to be the industry standard for equipment of this size. If I want to be able to use my tools elsewhere, or elsewhere tools be used here, I kind of have to stick with 1/4". In the future I'll be exploring some other options, but not on this compressor and probably not for "normal" tools. My drain hose comes out from the bottom and has a valve on a 3' whip, then another 3' whip attaches to the other side of the valve. I don't have to bend over to do it since it's on 6' of hose (and I do actually drain it). I must not have made this very clear, because a lot of people don't seem to understand it. I think the _extra_ valve on the bottom of the tank might be giving false impressions to some viewers. There are some good thoughts in your comment for sure, but I would *_not recommend_* that anyone increase the tank pressure of their compressor beyond what the manufacturer intended... especially on one of these questionable quality Chinese units. In truth, the switch that is on it right now is adjustable and could be turned up... I was actually more tempted to turn it down given that my tank is 20 years old and has been abused. 😅

Indeed you do... ;) It will be on the channel in good time. Sadly it's a low priority at the moment, but it's a pretty nice car under all the dust.

I'm glad you found it useful!

Mine is excellent at that! ;) Thanks! Happy to have you!

Me too!

Thanks for watching it! 👍

Mine was in regular operation for nearly 20 years until I replaced it with something bigger and quieter! 😁

Something like that might work, but all of the compressors I've seen have female threads.

@@TheBrokenLifeA pipe nipple solves that.

@@DonziGT230 Sure, if you can find a nipple that corresponds to the thread size on the head and an oil filter. I _think_ the thread on that compressor is M20. I have no clue if there are M20 oil filters out there. What I ended up doing in the end is getting a Solberg filter housing that is made for air compressors. They cost a little bit, but it's a nice solution. They also add the capability to add a snorkel to the filter, which some guys claim lowers noise on some compressors. I haven't tried that yet myself.

Thanks! I didn't know they could be that restrictive either until many years of ownership. It wasn't until I attempted to use a 1/2" impact gun with mine that I discovered the problem. Then I ran into the problem twice more in other people's shops... Just to get you by for tools with a relatively low flow rate, like nailers and such, the OEM regulators are fine. Put the one that came with your compressor on quick connectors so you can plug it in and out as you choose. I'll be covering regulators in a future video, but my general preference is to try to find something industrial grade on the surplus market. Even a fairly well used Parker, IR, SMC, etc will be much higher quality than something from the home improvement store. That said, almost anything is an improvement over what comes on these units.

@@TheBrokenLifenot to be a smart-ass, but why not move the regulator to the other side of the tee? That way you have one full-flow and one regulated outlet, leaving you the ability to use more precise tools?

@@avedesco If I had planned it all out from the start I absolutely could have. But, I'm positive the day the regulator came off it went straight into the trash out of frustration, and then the tee came along at some point in the future. In all honesty, I always had the regulator wide-open anyhow so I never mourned the loss. Even to this day many years later, I'm not sure if I have anything that minds the occasional 125psi. My die grinders ran for years and years at 180... not that you should do that yourself. But, I do have a new regulator now and plan to soft-plumb it into the system so it can be selected or bypassed easily. I just haven't gotten around to the video yet.

Me too! We'll get to it in time.

I've moved on to Parker fittings since, as far as I can tell, they don't have any steel parts to corrode. That said, one of the issues with these cheap compressors is that the biggest hole in the tank is 1/4" NPT. So even if I were to run no fittings and just plumb directly to the tank, that's all the better it would ever get. My new compressor (video linked here: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/qKKApIOwhqGBrGw.html) has 1 1/4" bungs in the tank so at some point I'm likely to try much larger plumbing. When I do, it will for sure be on the channel. 👍

That's absolutely in the long term plan. I honestly didn't expect to have the corrosion troubles you saw in the video, or at least not that extreme.

This was my thought also. I’m building a copper pipe radiator type like everyone else has.

I don't understand the complaint of putting a ball valve on the end of a 3' foot hose, which is _not_ "under" the compressor, vs. a solid pipe which _is._ The express reason it's on the end of a hose is so I don't have to get on the floor to operate it. There's normally also another hose on the end of the ball valve so I don't shoot water all over the shop when I drain it, making the entire thing about 6' long. If you like one or the other, fine. Whatever works for you. Pretty sure I admitted in the video that I made a mistake when I removed the filter media from the filter housing. If you want me to say I was wrong for doing that, I was. I can say it 100 more times and nothing about it will change. Thanks for watching...

That's almost exactly what I just did on my new compressor, featured in last Sunday's video. 👍

That will add volume, so it will increase the amount of time before the compressor turns on, but it will not increase pressure. It will also cause the compressor to run long to refill the additional volume.

Yep. Anything you see in the video that I didn't specifically comment on is just regular HFT stuff. You sure your compressor isn't suffering from blow by and pressurizing the crank case and popping that plug out?

Since filming this video I have retired the compressor shown and taken water separation a lot more seriously on its replacement. I decided that the best way to keep water out of the fittings was to keep water out of the tank from the start. Check out the Compressors / Air Tools playlist in the description if you want to see where that path has led me.

I made a video addressing this... ukposts.info/have/v-deo/oqOobamciK6ilI0.html

I doubt it on a compressor of this size. But... I have heard of people finding casting imperfections that were obstructing the outlet on the cylinder head. It might be worth taking a look for something like that?

All of the links are in the video description. 👍

It's M20. I was able to obtain an M20 to 3/4 adapter and put a Solberg housing on it a little while after I released this video. 👍 That said... Various reports from the field lead me to believe that not all HFT compressors have metric inlets. You have to check each one before making any plans.

@@TheBrokenLife good to know since i have the same compressor.

I'm surprised by that too. A crank bolt is exactly what caused me to find this error the first time on mine.

Ouch... These cheap guys always seem to find a creative way to die.

Mine does that in _cold_ weather. Are you running an appropriate air compressor oil? I run non-detergent straight 30W in mine. Another thought is there could be something wrong with your contractor/pressure switch where it's drawing too much power. I'm not sure if it's this video or another one where I illustrated replacing mine.

Yeah,like I said it’s a couple yrs old but doesn’t have that much use.I was down for a few yrs needing back surgery but yeah I changed it after break in period and now has half and half syn and standard and the right cord.I put WD40 on the shaft next to the fan thinking it was turning by hand too hard and that made a big. difference but still stuck with the same crap.I have a har dryer I some times put on it a while and seems to help but same old crap overall

@@barrykilts4506 There could be a few things causing it, but it doesn't sound like normal behavior. I'd probably pop the cover off of the contactor and see if anything looks burned and maybe disconnect the small line at the check valve to make sure yours isn't leaking.

@@TheBrokenLife have the cover off now and all appears well but since I do a lot of steel cutting,grinding,welding and such I decided to change the oil and glad I did.don’t know for sure yet but alone may be enough of an improvement and if it is I’ll change it once more very soon and more often and improve the air breather/cleaner

@@barrykilts4506 Awesome! Hopefully it really was that easy!

Heh... That backpack is a beast. Just has a crappy wand.

I didn't forget about you. It's gonna be a little while.

On compressors of this size, pretty much anything that is physically the size of a can of soda, or larger, at the home improvement store will do. I've had a regulator video simmering on the back burner for awhile now that I really need to get to. 😆

That's quite a good run out of one! And... See the pinned comment. 👍

Thanks!

It depends where. Even worse, it probably also depends on model. All of the air ports (except the air intake on the cylinder head) I've ever seen on them are NPT. Everything else, I would assume metric, but you'll have to double check.

I've heard good things about those and plan to take a look at them. 👍

I don't doubt it. I've been meaning to try some out! 👍

@@TheBrokenLife I just used it on a bumper Repair...it's great. Used it as a bonder and filler. Sands nice too...I use it with the nozzles... makes it pretty easy to lay.

@@DJDOUBLE077 Interestingly one of my upcoming projects is to fill some holes in a plastic bumper. I'll definitely give it a shot.

Thanks!

I keep hearing good things about the Milton V fittings. I plan to take a look at them in the future.

Not even close. Sadly, even much higher end compressors still come with pretty crappy gauges, fittings, etc and all of the stuff I installed here will transfer over to any other compressor in the future. The only real money wasted was on the filter housing, which was more for fun than anything. I ended up abandoning it for a Solberg unit not too long after this video. That said, I did end up retiring this compressor and replacing it with a much higher end model (videos are all linked in the Air Compressors playlist, which is in the description). After waiting for months for a good sale, that compressor was ~$400. Regular price is around $700. So... In regular price dollars, it was probably about a $450 difference between what I did in this video (including the initial purchase price of the compressor) and my new compressor as it came out of the box. My new compressor also received the same treatment and then some.

Sure. You can put couplers on anywhere there's a fitting on the tank.

@@TheBrokenLife ok so taking off the brass coupler and putting a flexzilla high flow is ok? The directly on the machine itself? Haha I just don't want to F up my unit cause I have no idea what I'm doing 😂

@@David-kg1hc It should be as straight forward as just changing one for the other. Just don't mess with anything to do with the control system or the over-pressure safety valve and you're fine. That said... If you really don't know _anything_ about what you're doing, you may want to try to seek out someone local to double check what you're planning to do. None of this is complicated, but it is dangerous if you really screw up.

@@TheBrokenLife ok man thank you for your time!

@@David-kg1hc I'm happy to help. Good luck with it! 👍

Wow... Any comparison to the master himself is way too generous. 🤣👍

With enough effort I imagine anything is possible. If you have all of that stuff just sitting around there's no harm in trying to repurpose it.

That makes two of us... That one has let me down 2 more times since this video. C'mon black Friday!

See the pinned comment. 👍

I would suspect you're not running your plasma and die grinder for very long..?

@@TheBrokenLife with the extra tank I get about 45 seconds of plasmacutting at 35psi before the compressor kicks on, then about a full minute before the psi dropps enough to where I can't keep cutting. I get about 30 seconds of die grinder. Thought about getting a second one

@@autodidacticartisan That's about what I would have guessed. I admire and respect the make-it-work attitude, but that amount of run time would drive me bonkers. Even something like the cheap HFT compressor I showed in this video would be a huge upgrade for you. You won't be running stuff non-stop, but you would easily multiply your productivity by 5 or maybe 10 in the case of the plasma. It looks like the cheapest similar one they have these days is about $250.

@@TheBrokenLife I've been considering getting their 26 gallon ultra quiet compressor. It looks very nice and I've seen some good reviews. Tbh a minute is enough time to cut most things on the plasma cutter. I'd really be wanting it for the die grinder and other high flow tools.

@@autodidacticartisan Die grinders are pigs for sure. You just can't have enough air to run one.

Not awesome in my opinion, but it's not really a fair comparison vs. none. That's why I didn't time it and share the results. Only a moron like me would be running without one at all. ;) I'm considering trying to move up to an automotive or motorcycle filter in the future. If I do that, I'll for sure compare the two head-to-head.

@@TheBrokenLife use a hole saw and drill some holes on the outside of the cover, give you more airflow

@@garrymccoy4053 I had the same thought and may give it a try.

The plastic part of my air cleaner housing melted that threaded into the head. I have no idea how to fix it. So I’ve been living with nothing for many years and it sucks. I am more of a moron.

@@toddkokko5049 I think the joke is on both of us because the performance without a filter is about twice as good as with one. I kinda wish I hadn't fixed it! ;)

No problem... Working on it now.

That works unless you want to use your compressor for running a paint gun. Getting oil in a paint gun would be bad for your paint job.

@@TheBrokenLife, have separate fittings for your paint guns. It's FAR cheaper than the frustration involved.

@@affliction1979 I strongly agree. I have outright separate hoses for that kind of thing which never see oil (other than the garbage the compressor is passing through them).

@@TheBrokenLife, I've been working with air tools at work for approximately 20 years or so, yet I just bought my own, personal compressor. I'm literally in the middle of buying all the extra crap, so I can definitely understand. I really want to T my valve off to 1/4 and 3/8, but I'm not sure if my compressor can handle 3/8".

@@affliction1979 If your tool needs to consume the volume that 3/8" can provide, then that's what it needs. If your compressor can't keep up the demand of the tool, then you'll have to trade the flow rate of the compressor rebuilding the stored volume in the tank for your time. Standing around waiting for the compressor to recharge is a story I know well. In my opinion, there is no such thing as too much volume. You can always take it away by various means, but you can't add it back once the plumbing is maxed out. If you've got something you think you need 3/8" for, then it won't ever hurt to have it. For what it's worth, in all of the various air tool pursuits I've been on in my life, all but industrial applications have been with 1/4" M style fittings and I don't know any home hobbyists using larger. That includes stuff like sandblasting which just murders air. My limitation has always been the flow rate of the compressor itself.

The reason for the brass bar stock 90 is because it's about 1/2 the height of a standard black iron pipe elbow and fits under the tank without hitting the floor. I also prefer brass because it won't rot out like iron will or falsely indicate more rust in the tank than is actually present. It's a couple more bucks, but money well spent, IMO. Sorta the same deal with a pipe to get it out to a leg instead of using hose. A pipe will eventual rot out, and make the discharge water appear rusty, but a hose never will. The purpose of the first ball valve at the tank, which honestly I had forgotten was even there until you mentioned it, is just in case the day ever came that I might damage the discharge hose and want to shut it off at the tank. It's been there for about 10 years and I've ever needed it. It probably wouldn't work anymore if I tried. 😆 This compressor has been retired, but on my new compressor I just put a valve on the hose and omitted it from the tank, using the same bar stock brass 90. I also added a water separator in-line between the compressor and the tank and used vinyl tubing for the water drain there. I confess that I used high pressure vinyl for the job, but that is mostly because it's less likely to kink shut and I prefer the look of it. What all of that said, no matter how someone chooses to do it, a remote tank drain is worth whatever it costs to get done. It transforms a job that is a ridiculous pain into something that is just the flick of a switch. 👍

Whatever works! 👍

The fittings themselves, where I was using the channel locks, are round.

@@TheBrokenLife yeah what I'm getting at is if you don't use channel lock pliers on a fitting not already rounded and instead use a crescent wrench you avoid this entire issue, lol...

@@AWIERD1 I understand your point. My point is there is no hex on those fittings and there never was. The have round bodies with knurling and that's it. Look up a Milton S-715 and you'll see it. The only hex on it is for installation, not for disassembly.

Yep. That's pretty much exactly what I did. 😆

@@TheBrokenLife great video BTW... I am in the midst of making one of my own, from scratch. You are almost the only one, that also uses a airfilter!.. I had also ordered one, because It really did stick out too me how nobody really threw one on, and never even mentioned how "important" they actually are, for increasing it's longevity, and the general health of the tank, just like drainage, from humidity, it's like they think the water seperator on the regulator somehow will magicly evaporate the build-up, in the air-container also?!... so your brass coupling is a brilliant idea. that I'm going to steal for myself ;)

@@DreadPirarateAndersen Thanks, I'm glad you found the video helpful! As far as the filter, in the long run I ended up scrapping that one and put a Solberg on it. It was way less effort and not that much more money for what is almost certainly a better filter. Tank health is a big deal for me. Even if not for a rusty tank being a safety risk, it's just not financially realistic to re-tank most consumer level compressors if one ever springs a leak. If you lose the tank, the whole is thing is trash. Speaking of... I'm in the midst of outfitting a new compressor with some other systems to keep that sort of thing to a minimum. Should be a decent set of videos. 🤞

Yep. Lesson I learned the hard way!

Yep, that's certainly another way to go about it. I have since switched off to Solberg housings that have a provision for a snorkel, somewhat like you're describing.

Mostly just for cost. Stainless is a great option too.

Yessir! It's a little cleaner now. 🤣 ukposts.info/have/v-deo/bqqFjX6waIiayac.html

I believe you're the 4th or 5th person to mention that. Believe me, I got the message.

@@TheBrokenLife If you turn the channel locks around they work much better. Like a pipe wrench. But maybe you've already been told that.

@@gailtaylor1636 I've been seriously considering _only_ using them backward in future videos and making it an easter egg for the channel! :)

@@TheBrokenLife Bought 2 broken husky comp. 27 & 30 gal. 27 was cooked. 30 had broken regulator knob, destroyed the spring somehow too and after digging deeper one of the three comp bracket mounting tabs is broken. Little afraid to press drive pulley off motor to allow switching motor/comp brackets. I bet it's a smooth shaft and pulley held on by hopes & prayers. So... swapped regulator onto 30 gallon and fired it up without fixing broken mount...yeah that's not gonna last. Will break the discharge line that runs to tank. But fortunately the regulator was leaking so had to tear it down anyway. Going your direction and plumbing it solid w/o regulator. I'll buy a cheap reg and put a q-connect on it for the rare time I need it. Think I'll use a piece of steel and make a tab to replace the broken mount. I have the broken piece but doubt this cast "aluminum" can be welded. Plus expensive. Wanted to bolt an L-shaped piece on but haven't found what I need yet.

@@gailtaylor1636 When in doubt, JB Weld and some scrap steel can do wonders for broken aluminum castings. Not something I'd do for anything critical or safety related, but for a mount like that it would probably be fine.

The comments are full of people disagreeing (some pretty intensely) with both of us for doing that. 😂

Indeed, it would. I ended up switching filter housings not too long after this video to one that allows for a remote intake. It's made by Solberg.

See the pinned comment.

Thanks! 😂

I imagine you certainly could do that. It's more difficult for me to get that than it is to use regular air hose.

Heh.... Not that I wouldn't have a gray Chevy Celebrity, but that is actually a black '91 Mustang GT that is badly covered in shop dust. It has since been washed. 😂

Great tip! 👍

@@TheBrokenLife pun intended?

@@cm1133 heh... I wish! 😆

Lots of folks have said good things about it. 👍 And... I probably wouldn't do that one again. I replaced that housing with a Solberg unit that cost a couple of bucks, but is much nicer in the end.

I believe you're the 3rd or 4th person to mention that. ;)

I've known guys who have painted entire cars with compressors this size. I don't feel that gives you much margin for error, but... they do it.

Ok brother u recommend just getting a bigger compressor 👍

@@bensonporter1384 That's what I ultimately did. These really cheap, small, compressors are _just_ enough to barely get you working. 😅

🤣🤣 them little compressor are trash....what big compressor did u buy??

@@bensonporter1384 A slightly larger DeWalt. It's the most I have the electricity to run. There are several videos of it on the channel.

A few reasons. First, they weren't all that common back when I bought my compressor so I just took what I could get at the price I could pay. Second, now that they're more available, I'm not a fan of them because they run so much hotter. Pretty much every oil-less compressor I've ever seen, that has seen any work (and wasn't ultra expensive), has died a young death. I routinely abuse my oiled compressor and it keeps going, and going, and going, and...

What compressor?

Mccraw

Please

I really want it off

Ok

Will this one work?: amzn.to/3UROffH

I thought about that, but I ended up replacing that entire housing not too long after this video.