Good to hear you guys also pronouncing the "L" in Flux 👍

Sir I so appreciate your content. And it's precisely BECAUSE you offer it for FREE that I am going to donate to your patreon account. I hope others will see the sense and benefit of paying you your due. You have such an incredible knack for explaining complex subjects with a simple thoroughness that is thankfully never dumbed down. Even basic subjects you go into wonderful detail which is many times difference between understanding and not. Thank you for your service

Thank you for donating your personal time to share these great tips. I appreciate it very much & watch so many of your videos. I have learned a great deal thanks to your generosity of knowledge.

Very interesting and one of my favorite subjects! I learned my soldering skills from, all people!, my mother. She worked, in the early sixties, at Conrac making point to point connections on CRT monitors for the Apollo space projects. Of course, at 12, I didn't know she was teaching me mil spec soldering techniques, and it sure did help me in my career. The next "teacher' of soldering was Heath Kit kits! Their first lesson was soldering. In it, I learned about eutectic solder: the 63/37 which you mentioned. It had at the time, the lowest melting point of 361F and helped me solder with least dwell time on sensitive components. Later on, when SMT came about, the 62/36/02 (Ag) came into play with an even lower range of 354-372F. I prefer to use this now because of the benefits of lower dwell time (leaves a nice, shiny connection) and the silver provides a better electrical conductivity not to mention a harder one. Thanks for the presentation and a great memory journey! BTW, my mother taught me to always clean the resin from the completed connections. Makes the job look neater (and was required for mil spec work).

Another great tech tip Tuesday Paul. Very informative. Big thumbs up.

Very nice presentation. I went through a very similar one by my "Elmer" when I was getting into Amateur Radio.

Many thanks I love the pace and detail in all your videos, a great place to learn. You are a great teacher.

Thank you for sharing your informed insights and expertise. Your efforts are appreciated!

Thank you so much for the tips! Sometimes I have to repair car modules, and working on ceramic substrate boards really requires you to have good state of mind before working on them haha. Now I feel more prepared for the next one to come.

I have a roll of the organic solder I've used it a few times but wasn't aware that it would remove the tin. Lots of good info there look forward to the next restore video have a great day.

Thank you Mr.Carlson for all the very useful and informative videos. Just what I needed as I bought my first analog soldering station and I'm learning my soldering chops.

Great Tips - things about Solder I never knew. I was always the guy who hovered the aisles, never could decide which to buy. Thank you!!! Great idea on the Hot Glue removal.

A little tip on using flux pens that I find works good. The reason the pen sometimes pours out the flux is the pressure difference caused by air temperature. Example: You use the flux pen on a cool day then the next time you use it, it is a hot day. The increase in temperature will cause pressure inside the pen which will push out a lot of flux once you depress the tip. To prevent this from happening, I store my flux pens with the tip pointing upwards so all flux will flow away from the tip. Then before using the pen, with the tip still pointing upwards (do not let the pen become inverted when you pick it up), I use the cap to press the tip down to equalize the pressure inside the pen. After that, use it normally. One last tip. Since I really like using flux pens, once it is empty, tap a small fitting onto the end then refill them and place a cap onto the fitting. They can be filled many times over.

Wow, learned more in this video than 20 others all on same subject. Liked and subscribed. Thanks

Great tips, especially about the Sponge! I’m a “Beginner” and trying to learn as much as I can, just for general around the house stuff.

Mr. Carlson, I want to thank you for sharing the depth of your knowledge with me. It excites me greatly to increase my knowledge of everything related to my profession and continue to add new skills to my resume. As your follower, I no longer question the L, I just pronounce it! Thanks and 73's, Anthony Reo

Thanks for extra tip on hot glue removal I was having a hard time with those glue. Now I know how.

Great video!! 63/37 at 0.032" from Kester is my everyday solder, it works beautifully for most things. For surface mount I've mostly moved to using solder paste. And if the .032 is too thin for heavy joints, you can just twist two strands of it together to feed it faster and keep dwell times short.

You’re 100% correct about the pens being expensive and gushing out if you’re not careful, but they are sooooo convenient, esp when working in the field. It’s really easy to refill the pens with the needle applicator bottle, just invert with the felt removed and use something to depress the ball valve and squirt the rosin in, letting gravity do the rest. I’ve had a hard time finding any info on strengths of different hot glues; would be interesting to hear your experience. I finally ran out of my giant box of circa-1980 “Craftsman” hot glue and haven’t found anything it’s equal yet. Just found your channel while researching info for a restoration I am embarking on of a pair of EL34-based Heathkit AA-10 35W monos that my late grandfather built back in the day. Loving the content. Thanks !

I took your advice and bought some 10 AWG solid copper wire for my Weller Industrial Soldering Gun. Wow was I impressed! The copper went to five hundred degrees Celsius in no time and it cooled just as quickly. It's a good idea and thanks for sharing your advice.

Mr. Carlson, I pronounce solder the way Webster’s dictionary indicates it should be pronounced. My point of pronunciation was just an opinion. Another opinion I have is that your knowledge of electronics is awesome; I have been soldering since 1951 and thought thatI knew the subject fairly well but I learned several things watching your video.. My profession before retiring was Theoretical Physics; Electronics is just a hobby of mine. I felt I have a fairly well equipped electronics workbench until I see yours. Yours is better equipped than those of several large companies I have worked for. I enjoy your videos VERY much. I’m sorry if I offended you, I was only pointing out that your pronunciation of solder goes against the popular American usage. My eight years of college was just the beginning of my education; I will continue to learn new things as long as I live. I have many interests, Electronics is just one. My main interests are Physics, Flying (I am an Instrument rated Commercial Pilot), Guitar, Computers, and Mathematics. I look forward to learning as much as I can from your excellent videos.

Interesting about the hot glue. I wonder if hairspray would work the same? You can use it to remove rubber handgrips from handlebars - it works like magic.

Hello Paul, thank you for taking the time to make this awesome video, very much appreciated. looking forward to your new restoration video. thanks again.

This would be the first video I have seen and I learned a lot of new and very informative details and varieties of leads and fluxes and etc.....thank you sir and God speed!More power to you!

You can buy the small diameter solder for most applications. If you need bigger solder wire, pull out 3 feet of the small stuff. fold it in half or thirds, then twist it into a single strand of larger size.

Many thanks, this is a really great video for a beginner like me. One question, I see that you can get solder from the same range, but with core sizes varying from 1.8 to 3%. Is there a specific preference or reason for wanting a higher or lower percentage?

Wow, so much good information! Thanks for your work on these Tech Tip Tuesday's.

A few millennia ago, I graduated from a course given by the RCA Institutes and did a little repair work as a side interest. I have already learned more from watching a few of your videos than I did from the entire RCA course.

Great knowledge...but camera is so zoomed out, it’s difficult to see. I suggest a list in your video description.

Another choice for small squeeze bottles are available from Pro's Kit. They sell a Flux bottle 2 pack part # MS-035. Do not try old medical syringes. The chemicals in the flux slowly dissolve the rubber part of the plunger resulting in a sticky black goo that clogs up the needle.

All the information in one place. Nothing that would be unnecessary. Correct pronunciation of “solder”. What more could anyone want? Superb.

Your tip about that Brillo pad type cleaner for the iron tip: Brilliant. THank you for that. I also really found this entire video handy. I recently got into building tube amps point to point. Hugely helpful.

I've had a Hakko station for about 10 years, and I love it. If you're looking to really get into soldering, a Hakko is a good investment... :)

Thank you for pronouncing the "L" in solder, I thought I was the only one. Great lesson, thank you.

You are so right about that tip cleaner. Had mine now for about 6 months and I still can't quite believe how clean the tip of my iron is now. I did not know about the wet sponge problem, I wish I had before but certainly useful to know even though I've not used a sponge since I bought the tip cleaner.

Just picked up a soldering station after countless frustrated attempts with those plug-and-play irons that come with hobby kits. Trying to get my head around the relationship(s) between solder, flux, oxidisation, etc. My understanding is that it's really a matter of feel that comes with practise, but it's great to have a general idea of what's going on both thermally and chemically. (It almost goes without saying that the hardest part about learning to "solder" is dealing with pedants' insistence on the pronunciation of the word. 😉) Just wanted to say a big thanks for all the knowledge you share! I've been watching your restoration videos and marvelling at the depth and detail of your knowledge, not to mention your infinite patience. Also, the solder I grabbed out of a bucket of different kinds (just to get started somewhere with this station) is a 60/40 .032" RA flux core - so, coincidentally, I've got a little more confidence, thanks to your recommendation!

I pronounce the "L" ONLY and leave the remaining "SO-DER" silent.

Aaagh, I need millimeter dimensions too! :-) Great video! NOTE: 0.020" = 0.5mm and 0.032" = 0.8mm

As the years go by it is easy to think we know it all, my 65years has yet again taught me that I DONT know it all. Excellent information and plenty for me to experiement with. Top man.

Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks, Mr. Carlson!

Great information!, I just can't get used to saying solder pronouncing the "L"...LOL I have a 5 pound roll of thick 50/50 rosin core solder and it works great, I used to do antique radio & TV as a hobby and also used 60/40 solder. What do you think of the 50/50 solder for point to point and simple PC work? Thanks for your videos, I enjoy watching even though I no longer do this work because of poor eyesight and no shop.

hello sir, do you own a space station?

Thanks for self-sponsoring another informative PSA for the electronic hoi polloi like me. As always, it's learning made easy and entertaining-undoubtedly the result of a lot of knowledge, experience, careful planning, and peerless production values on your part, not to slight esthetics and integrity. Would appreciate knowing your views on the toxicity of soldering fumes, and cost-benefit considerations of the options to deal with them. Be well!

That's some very good information regarding solder and a handy tip on the hot glue removal. Thanks for sharing!

Use 63/37 solder (eutectic) rather than 60/40 (non-eutectic). Here’s why (Wiki excerpt): “…some alloys are eutectic - that is, the alloy's melting point is the lowest possible for a mixture of those components, and coincides with the freezing point. Non-eutectic alloys can have markedly different solidus and liquidus temperatures, as they have distinct liquid and solid transitions. Non-eutectic mixtures often exist as a paste of solid particles in a melted matrix of the lower-melting phase as they approach high enough temperatures. In electrical work, if the joint is disturbed while in this "pasty" state before it fully solidifies, a poor electrical connection may result; use of eutectic solder reduces this problem.”

Love your videos ... but ... take this as a constructive hint :) ... can you please mention measurements in the International System :) 0.032'' is 0.8mm ... I had to look that up :) Those on the other side of the pond and worldwide seeing your videos will be please :)

Excellent tips! Thanks for taking the time to make these great videos.

Aloha from Capt. Glenn in Hawaii….I love your “ever-green “ videos! They are treasury in a compulsive product test culture of rapid fire quickly ,rushed videos. They stand the test of time.

A most helpful post! Two questions. 1) Have you ever tried Naphtha as a solvent-based cleaner? We used it in the Air Force for field maintenance and it cleans extremely well for both PCB prep and residue cleaning. 2) I'm wondering if you could address desoldering these "hard-to-work-with" eutectic alloy solder-dipped PCBs that are now used on nearly all PCBs in electronics manufacturing. I've been unable to find much internet info on the safe melting point to avoid PCB damage. It seems this new eutectic dipping alloy is preferred in production as it solidifies rapidly. It's down side is once hardened it's nearly irreversible. Even with a quality station I find this solder a pain to break loose even after thorough prepping and using the old solder heat-bridging technique. I'd like to see how you deal with such stubborn solder connections using this fickle eutectic solder.

I haven't heard you talked about (have I missed it?) the Lead Free (100% tin) solder which in my opinion in horrible and people should be warned when dealing with this type and perhaps stay away.

As always, an informative and well presented video. Keep up the great work.

I had to go mostly lead free and I only use Kester k100ld .8 mm. I believe it is the best lead free available for a reasonable price and It flows nice and is very clean and I`m happy with it. But I still sneak in some leaded solder on critical joints. I also love the Cardas quad eutectic solder for audio connections and power connections. Thank you Mr Carlson love your videos.

Pace worldwide actually made tutorials for soldering and board repair in the 70's, they uploaded the videos to their channel.. first video you can find on youtube is called "Basic soldering Lesson 1 : Solder and Flux", the lessons goes on to the different soldering techniques for different soldering terminals, and then goes on to board repair, even multi-layer board repair... very interesting stuff.

Hmm ... alcohol ! Good point, will have to remember that one. All points considered though, perhaps some brandy would have yet a better appeal, say like in my shop past the midnight hours when wifey is in bed fast asleep; mua hah ha ha haahhhh ! Thanks for the "Hot tip" Mr Paul !

Thanks for the tips, Paul. I look forward to another one of your 2-hour restoration videos.

These videos are phenomenal. Thank you!

10 points for saying solder, so nice on the ears. I get a pain in my soul when i hear of soder-me on youtube

Nice video but I'm completely confused by the numbers your using. Iv no doubt they are the correct terms but what are they in mm?

Thank you for posting this video. It's just what I was looking for. Very helpful and informative.

Thanks Mr Carlson for another awesome video, keep 'em coming.

+1 for soLder ;)

Very good as usual.I had a laugh though, yes its S O L D E R.I was in Portland Origon on a factory training course, it was all Kiwis and Ausys.After about 15 minutes on the first day of the course, I suddenly realised what SODER was and without thinking said out loud "OOOH SOLDER!" the Yanky instructer stoped and looked at me and all the other students in unison said "OH shit SOLDER!!"No body had any idea what the Yank was talking about for the first 15 minutes.

Always informative... You are an engineer of electronics.!!!❤

Great video Paul, Myself prefer 63/37 and when you clean it up it shines like chrome. When I took NASA soldering course, the instructors had a hard time inspecting the joints because of the shine. Keep em comming, Greg

And yes I pronounce the "L" in solder. A breath of sanity 😍

+ for pronouncing Solering correctly - for using mystical measurement units.

Mr Carlson - thanks for the video. Electronics / ham radio has been my hobby for years and I had no idea of the changes. My biggest change was in 1996 when I bought a weller tcp soldering station (lol). Thanks again

Thank you so much. Always wanted to know more about the different solder available. Cheers.

Solder... saw•dur I just can't pronounce it like it's spelled. I've never heard anyone else pronounce it properly in real life. I'm in a profession where soldering is common.

I always pronouced it "sodder" Edit: Welp, my question was answered.

Great tutorial video, very informative - Thanks!

Nicely done tutorial. Now I can make my purchases with assurance.

"I do pronounce the 'l' in solder." Trigger warning for Americans. (And boy does that trigger them. Check the comments under literally any non-American electronics video. Not real aware of their relative position in the world, that lot.) Fabulous job as always, Mr. C.

At work we use Kester 60/38 with 2% silver. I detest lead-free solder!

This answered several questions for me. Thanks

Great presentation & depth of experience !!! Thx

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I cringe when I hear "soder," it's damn pleasant to hear it pronounced correctly :-)

I was expecting more about "lead free" eco-friendly solders,....and the four letter words it usually evokes from those who are forced to use it.

Thats just what ive been looking for...just setting up my workshop and was confused what to choose this really helps thankyou

Many years ago I worked as an electronics tech at a factory that was building equipment for the military. We were working 24/7, and the soldering irons were never shut off. I noticed that the soldering irons seemed cheap, but the tips were high-quality Hexacon. They replaced a tip every now and then but not often, which I thought was impressive considering the 24/7 operation. So, I bought aa few Hexacon tips for my own use.

I need to order my solder from Canada, evidently, 'cause all I can find in the states is "sodder."

Just as an aside, the viewers on here who are American, the correct pronunciation is sawder or solder without the L. The Merriam Webster dictionary is pretty much the defacto source when it comes to the correct pronunciation of American English. Check their website if you don't believe me. I am an Englishman and as much as it pains me to hear and see my language getting butchered I am sharply reminded by my conscience of the fact that English is a mish-mash of several languages. Not only that, it is an ever-evolving and ever-changing language. So then, is it not fair that those who have taken this language to other parts of the globe adapt it to their own use? Keep on sawdering friends!

Very enlightening presentation, especially when dealing with a variety of repairs that work best under the right conditions. I tend to use the 60/40 type solder that seems to work well for most applications.

Very good. U hit me right on the head. If I didn't watch ur vdo, I will make alot of mistakes when choosing the soldering flux wire. Thanks so much my friend.

From the moment I discovered this channel I began pronouncing the L in solder. If Mr. Carlson does it, it must be the right way. I don't care about people thinking I'm saying it wrong, because technically I think the L should be pronounced although both are acceptable.

Since when has the L been silent in solder?. Leave the world as it is please!!

Thanks John another helpful information again I got from you.

Nice tip about the hot glue! i like the T18-CF3 tip for smd qfp and the T18-D12 is my everyday carry. Think I will pick up a J type tomorrow! Have a good one, looking forward to your next video!

Thumbs up for not pronouncing it "sodder"

Sold Her LOL

Great video as usual. Very informative.

Been soldering for a couple years but really wanted to know what exactly I should be using to get the best results that's the easiest and least time consuming. Ive been using walmart rosin core solder(it's cheap an locally avaliable, frys is a bit of a drive) with liquid rosin when I need a little faster melting and adhesion. You answered my question immediatly. I already had 63 37 no clean .032 in my shopping cart but wanted to make sure it was the best choice for guitar pedals/ through hole pcb, guitar electronics and tube amp pcb's(and possibly I'll get into SMD pedals in the near future, but if I can avoid using a solder paste and just use what I use for everything else that would be great). You answered my questions right off the bat. GREAT video! Ive had no issues with lead free solder but having to use even more flux externally before flowing a joint(when I'm grounding to the back of a pot for example) is messy and time consuming so I wanted to give leaded solder a go. From what I understand if I can get lead free to work for me then leaded will just make things that much easier. Now this could be incorrect but it's possible I heard somewhere that no clean leaded solder can be messier than other solders. This goes against what I would assume but is there any truth to that? Once again excellent video, thanks! Edit: Yes! I recently bought a solder tip cleaner(brass shaving style) cause I was going through tips too quickly with a sponge but your statement confirmed it was infact the use of a sponge. I was able to bring 75% of my tips back to life with the tip cleaner(brass shavings) and tip tinner. Ive also made a rosin dispenser out of a small plastic bottle and a needle tip, works GREAT! Wish I saw your video years ago!

At last, an American who doesn't say SAHDDER...!! Yay!!

Very informative, but i couldn't finish. I just can't focus with you pronouncing solder like that with that LONG O and that affected L which you go out of your way to pronounce.

Very slick!! Thanks for the tips!!

Thanks for sharing your experience

I'm an American. We don't pronuce L's, we drink beer from any country, drive cars with 500 horsepower to go get groceries loaded with fat, half of us love Trump, half of us hate Trump, we believe all Canadians are polite even though a lot are rude asf, and our government tells us that lead free solder is best but they refuse to use it any of their own military equipment.

you pronounced solder wrong

Thank you. Excellent and much needed information.