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Even those who know nothing about Coco Chanel's life have likely heard of the "little black dress" and "Chanel No. 5" perfume. However, these iconic creations are just a small part of her contributions. In short, Chanel changed the status of women in the world. Can this be achieved with hats and dresses? It turns out, yes. Why did a woman who sewed dresses inspire musicians and poets? And not just as a woman, but as a designer. Do hats and dresses relate to art? Chanel herself did not want to be called an artist, but others disagreed. Another painful question: Can all that Chanel did for fashion and for women in general outweigh her collaboration with the fascists? There is no single answer to this question.
BOOKS:
1. Edmonde Charles-Roux. "The Incomprehensible Chanel".
2. Olga Weinstein. "Fragrances and Smells in World Culture". Vol. 2 "Semiotics of Chanel No. 5".
Upcoming Performances:
07.03 - Rome, Italy
Canada:
05.04 - Toronto
07.04 - Montreal
09.04 - Ottawa
11.04 - Calgary
12.04 - Vancouver
USA:
16.04 - Seattle
19.04 - Palo Alto
21.04 - Los Angeles
25.04 - Washington
27.04 - New York
01.05 - Boston
03.05 - Chicago
Tickets for the performances: eidelman.ru/
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00:00:00 Introduction. Lecture topic.
00:00:30 Tamara Eidelman's journey to Yekaterinburg.
00:02:52 Victor Marguerite's novel "The Bachelor Girl".
00:08:02 The origins and family of Coco Chanel.
00:10:46 How the status of women changed at the beginning of the 20th century.
00:14:58 How women's fashion changed at the beginning of the 20th century.
00:22:04 How the perception of female beauty evolved at the beginning of the 20th century.
00:24:04 Coco's childhood.
00:28:59 The start of designer Paul Poiret's career.
00:31:25 Coco's training in sewing and work as a seamstress.
00:32:42 The luxurious life of Misia Sert in the early 20th century.
00:34:00 New trends by Paul Poiret.
00:34:52 Coco's attempts to become a singer and the emergence of her nickname.
00:36:58 Coco's character.
00:38:29 Global cultural changes of the 1900s.
00:40:35 Coco's work in Vichy.
00:42:41 Coco's new status in her relationship with Étienne Balsan.
00:46:27 Coco and Emilienne d'Alençon.
00:48:07 Coco's life with Étienne Balsan.
00:51:09 Gender experiments with clothing.
00:52:51 Coco's work on hats.
00:56:08 Presentation of Paul Poiret's perfume.
00:58:34 How Coco's relationship with Arthur Capel contributed to the popularity of Chanel hats.
00:59:33 Coco and the rhythms of a changing world.
01:02:00 The free dance of Isadora Duncan.
01:05:48 Coco's desire to become a dancer.
01:07:09 Opening of the second hat shop.
01:09:38 The beginning of clothing design.
01:12:13 The popularity of Chanel's clothing during World War I.
01:17:58 Tragedies in Coco's personal life.
01:20:55 Friendship with the Serts.
01:25:16 Coco and the aristocracy.
01:28:26 Coco and art figures.
01:29:29 The Roaring Twenties. How fashion and lifestyle changed.
01:33:15 Chanel's costumes for the ballet "Le Train Bleu".
01:35:50 Chanel No. 5.
01:39:31 The color black in the 19th and 20th centuries.
01:45:53 The little black dress.
01:47:03 Criticism of Chanel's clothing and hats.
01:47:53 Coco and the 1930s crisis.
01:51:42 The fashion revolution of Elsa Schiaparelli.
01:56:29 Coco and new trends of the 1930s.
01:59:29 Coco during World War II.
02:01:55 Coco's relationship with Hans Gunther von Dincklage.
02:05:05 Coco as a German spy?
02:08:55 Coco in the post-war years.
02:10:25 The fashion revolution of Christian Dior.
02:12:09 The downfall of Chanel. What saved the fashion house from complete bankruptcy?
02:14:49 Coco and the denial of the new.
02:16:30 Coco's solitude and departure into eternity.