don't know much bout DIY with small pc components but ur vids definitely make me wanna learn more

Amazing project... Will follow thru your next findings!! 👍

You can calibrate the wind speed reading when it is a calm day, by driving a care and get the speed by a GPS. Then you know if the readings are ok, if not how much to change it. If you have a mobile phone, you can set up to tether with the ESP32, so it can connect to it's database.

Thanks for the instructuins and everything arround

That is a really nice build. Thanks

Awesome Project 🤩👌 I love it

Micheal, Your CHANNEL is growing by leaps and bounds. I have been sharing it with all my friends. Good show, - Robert

Nice looking build congratulations

sweet project dude

Nice.Im going to do that later

thanks for the good job. I'll download your code and use it as starting point for an automatic chicken coop with the same exact board from DFROBOTS

Looks great

Love it! amazing.

Hey Michael, I love the video. I put some resin prints outside on my front porch about two months ago. I used Standard Grey UV resin from Elegoo. After two months the print looks exactly the same. It doesnt seem to be anymore or less brittle than when I first printed it. My porch gets 10-12 hours of sunlight during the summer. I'm ready to do another print and a longer term experiment.

Nice.. I did mine with the help of ChatGTP, it reads temp, Rh, rain intensity & accumulation, uv index with an algorithm it made on the spot for using an LDR and another algorithm it made using the pulses from a fan/motor to calculate wind speed and uploads it to weatherunderground api, then deep sleep for 4 mins as the code takes around 10 seconds to complete and online update intervals are 5 mins so gives the system enough time to sync. I plan to print everything on my diy PET extruder, it makes filament from recycled PET bottle's and I've had things outside for year's without flaking, fading or becoming brittle.

Keen to do this myself, great instructions Mike!

You should swap the reed switch for a hall effect sensor, otherwise a great looking build!

You should be able to power your sensors off of digital pins on the esp32 so that you won't have any power draw in deep sleep. That will provide up to 40ma. If you need more, you can use a transistor and drive the base with the esp.

Nice work)

amazing project, if there was a fog sensor it would be very nice for me

Awesome!!!

The DHT11 is one of the least precise sensors I have tested (large increments, way off over time, and not linear enough to attempt to calibrate conveniently), you might want to look at a Sensirion (SHT40, SHTC3) or an all in one Bosh sensor (BME280). I agree with others that a hall effect would be better since the reed switch has mechanical limitation.

Very neat realisation. About the only thing it lacks is a wind direction indicator

Super video!

Was waiting for your video

Nixe Work/Idea.. Moisture will corrode over Time the Board and the Contacts and the Bearing maybe it work some Time but it's not ideal..

It's Great !

looks nice, but how is it weather proof? I have a Geiger Counter that I would like to build into one of these

Lekker video m8

Lekker !

Nice video Maker Michael! This one I may have to replicate. Let us know how you do the anemometer calibration.

I know this is an old video, but I have been printing in resin now for a while and leaving the pieces in harsh UV conditions. I paint the parts with UV reflective paints now. They come in spray-cans, and go on nicely and make the parts look very professional.

I noted in another comment you considered the idea that adding wind direction would be good. A potential way of doing this with using a Bourne absolute encoder, sparksfun has a module "Bourns Absolute Encoder (EAW0J-B24-AE0128L)" which encodes 128 positions ~2.8° each. Its only rated IP40, so you would have to ensure other water protection (perhaps flared bottom mount as a weather shield)

So no wind direction then and no rain sensor?

how do I calibrate the anemometer?

It would be interesting to be able to use an existing commercial weather station for sensors, and ten add the logging IOT layer with the RPi. That wold eliminate the need for all the fabrication and physical components, and make it an electronics project. It would be interesting to add a solar panel as you mention, and then one cold take any standard weather stations, and convert it to IOT usage. I recognize that was not or goal, and thanks for the video and project.

This is pretty cool! How does it hold up to rain/storms? Looking forward to updates!

Thank you for the video. I`ll try to understand how the wind speed funktion is working with diameter and the rotating and instead of reed switch i would like to use a hall effect seonsr. But until now I couldnt solve the wind speed topic

A lot o materials. Any idea to integrade with esphome and home assistant??

Nice project. I've looked at your wind speed calculation code and I think I see your issue. Looking at your CAD files it seems the anemometer cup centers are at 50mm radius (I say seems as I loaded the STL into a different cad and after importing the scale seemed off by a factor of 1000). Assuming that radius is correct, I calculated 1 rotation 2(50mm) pi = 314 mm = 0.314 m linear distance per rotation for the cup center. In your calcWind() function, you are calculating the avg ms during the read cycle, and then mapping this time if it is in a range of 200ms to 4000ms. The first issue I see in this routine is the calculation of avg. If the board only reads 1 rotation during the measure time, the avg will be 0ms / 1 = 0 ms, which defaults to 200ms due to later logic. I would change the IF clause to be if (counter > 1) rather than if (counter != 0), which the later logic will default to wind = 0. It would seem this is the reason for your graph spiking up from 0 to 16. The second issue I see is At 200ms (aka 5 rotations per second) the cups have moved 5 * 0.314 m = 1.57 m/s = -56.5 kph- 5.65 kph but you map this to 16 m/s, which seems off by a factor of 10 [not meters but decimeters] which is ok since map() deals only with integers so better precision but it's not meters. (and it seems 200ms is a little high for the top gate value) The third issue is your top range of 4000ms per rev = 0.314 m / 4 = 0.0785 m / s * 3600 = 0.2 kph which will not be accurate due to friction etc. If I was doing this I would default wind = 0 if count < 2, and if avg > 1200 I would report wind as 1 kph, which you seem to be doing as 0.3 m / s ~ 1 kph though you calculated this as 1 rotation > 4s and i calculate this as 1000m / 3600s = 0.278 m / s and 314 / 278 = 1129 ms per rotation. Assuming ThingSpeak is happy with floating point, in updateThingSpeak() I would do ThingSpeak.setField(5, wind/10.0); // wind is in decimeters per second, convert to meters or convert to kph as ThingSpeak.setField(5, wind*360.0); // 3600 seconds per hr, wind is in decimeter units Your readings will be still slightly inaccurate but much closer since due to friction and other losses the cups don't move exactly at wind speed but slightly slower (which will have a bigger effect at lower speeds but you're gated at 1kph anyway), I hope this helps a little and thanks for sharing!

You should paint the resin prints if they are going outside it will slow down the effects of UV on the prints

Great video! i've always wanted to make a weather station and i just got my hands on a 3D printer... the data you get with this can be used to make weather predictions?

Very interesting project. Maybe you could measure the battery voltage and post that so you knew when to charge it?

How did you end up calculating the required info for the anemometer given the surface area of the cups/length of arms etc give you huge variables?

Without rain water measurement?

great job!! just missed the rain meter...

Great project. With the resin-printed cups, I wonder if a painted finish would increase durability? 3M do a spray called Polyolefin Adhesion Primer (I don't work for them or know anyone who does, I just recommend the product - though it is super-toxic and so requires gloves, mask and eye protection to use). I found out about its use in car bodyshops to help paint adhesion to GRP bumpers/parts. It will adhere to any plastic or other slippery surface, on top of which you spray your primer (I like Rustoleum products), and then final paint surface. You can then finish with a spray on UV-protected lacquer. I've done this for some repair projects on Bakelite parts from an old sail boat (an epoxy and glass sheets repair), and it is holding up really well - salt water and air is already a very harsh environment, and the salt crystals that form from sea spray act like a magnifying glass to accelerate UV damage on horizontal surfaces especially.

I suggest putting some UV blocking coating (paint?) On the 3d printed plastic. PLA is especially sensitive to sunlight.

I'd be curious to know how the components hold up after a while outside. Does the 3D-print melt in the sun? do the electronics short out from water/moisture?

​@UCPNq-cWaMPccZydtyhMXGGQ also: ESP32+other circuit components can become really hot, while experimenting with some prototypes i have seen cases where the temp reading were 2-3-4C higher because of that. I would suggest you to put the Temp sensor on a spot far away from all the other components (best thing would be to put the Sensor on the bottom and the ESP/circuit on the top, since hot air goes up, so with the current design all the hot air inside the prototype is going on the top, right where the Temp sensor is...)

Add a PSI2.5 and a PSI10 sensor, and you can sell those like cupcakes here in Singapore :) Aren't you concerned about water entering the components area with a bit of high wind?

How do you protect the ESP32 board and even prevent the sensors from breaking down over time? Indoors is fine but outside in the winter how do you prevent wear and tear on the devices?

Could you not have the windguage drive a small motor and measure the output to get the wind-speed and also trickle charge the battery from it. Equally could have small solar panels around outside - measure light levels and also trickle charge. But large wind-guage onto small motor to self-power would be epic. Set and forget power usage always best.

At which pin does your reed switch plug into the esp32 pin?

This should be made into a written tutorial with all 3D printer Files etc.

Nice project. How do you calibrate the anemometer? Thank you!

After measuring the wind speed, you can turn it into a function of an electricity generator, so you can extend the operating time

A small solar cell for recharging the battery would have been perfect !

I wonder if enough people did this as an open source community project, could we compile all the data to predict the weather

Do you have anything to correct the light data? I mean my weather station light sensor is directly facing the sky.

Can i 3d print this with filament? Not resin?

Hi, iam a student of electronics, i have some dudes about the project, Can you help me?

Your DHT11 would be useless for me with its 0-50C range. Even the DHT22 is lacking with its range only going down to -40 (northern Minnesota gets colder than that).

Put some solar panels on it

Hope you're okay

Hallo, was ist das für ein Lötkolben.

Hmm. looks like what I type here is auto expunged if I include links? Let my try all that again... if you replace one of the anemometer cups with one that's 18% larger, and swap the reed switch with a magnetometer, you can measure wind speed (average frequency) and direction (magnetometer phase) at the same time.

Ist das ein deutscher Dialekt? Wo lebst du?

weather station, not waterproof = trash