Excellent! Pleased you found it useful.

❤️❤️

Keep on soldering!!!

Glad I could help!

Thanks

Glad I could help!

Glad it helped. Thanks.

I am pleased you found it useful. Thanks for the comment.

Glad you found it useful.

You bet!

Glad you found it useful. I spent my whole life trying to save time and still don't have enough to spare!!

You're welcome!. Good luck.

You are welcome!

You are welcome. Pass i on boys... Pass it on..

Point taken. I clean every board with IPA and a brush and inspect. I seen managed so many engineers that spend hours debugging a fault that has been caused by their own sloppy solder splashes.

Thank.s I hope you found it useful.

Thank you! Cheers!

You are welcome keep soldering on!!

Indeed!

Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Glad you found it useful.

Glad you found it useful

Thanks. Glad it was useful...

About 380 degrees. The temperature that the iron is stet to is important but so many cheap irons have a problem delivering the heat into the work-piece as they often don't have a good thermal coupling between the sensor the tip and the element. If in doubt use 400 C or a larger soldering tip.

Thanks. Yes my sucking technique sucks.. I am more of a make a terrible mess and clean it up kind of guy. Long live the mothersucker!!

Thanks

Thanks for watching.

Glad it helped

The same way. shape a wire, flood with solder and remove when molten.

IsoPropyl Alcohol works best

Application that is what counts!!! Thanks for watching.

The desoldering pumps that I have tried are sitting on the store room. They are not that useful. They maybe OK of some specific production problems but I never got along with them. The advice you should tale away from this video is the most important tool by far is the actual soldering iron. I have used virtually every cheap one there is and they are a true false economy. The ability to deliver the power and control the temperature is key. My Weller is 90 Watts with silver heating element closely coupled to the solder tip. The cheaper irons are like trying to play soccer with ballet shoes on. I discovered a decent hand solder sucker, a good iron, some flux, some decent Loctite or (formerly Multicore) 60/40 lead/tin and excellent close up vision is all you need, I rarely use hot air soldering much as this tends to stress some components when repairing stuff.

@@razenby Agreed about a strong iron

The joys of soldering be upon you!!

@@razenby it is my Zen.

Possibley. Compared to copper has a dramatically lower thermal conductivity. Since a paperclip would help maintain the solder flood then I reckon a paperclip is worth a try as the solder blob will conduct the heat.

Could be. I prefer not to heat up an entire board and it electronics because it causes stress and most have strict limits of max process temperatures and duration and without a controlled process it if difficult to meet these specs.. basically reliability could be affected.

Thanks

Indeed. Wise words!

😂

😂😂

Copper works much better than steel.

Sure you can!!

It works for me. Thanks for watching.

Thanks, Enjoy.

Thanks! Will do!

Use the same technique if there are through board pins.

Yes Hot air takes ages and it is very difficult to get it to melt. It stresses other components too. I invariably reach for the copper wire.

Yes that will work.

Thanks

Sorry you don't like my tip but it works for me!!

Strange comment. Everyone one knows expensive solder will not clear 1.6mm plated through holes. I have never damaged a PCB with it and it always works speedily and efficiently and does not waste money or copper.

@@razenby Strange reply to a comment. Everyone one knows that a tin sucker is able to suck up a heated pcb pad and part of the pcb track together with the melted tin. Everyone one also knows that a freshly tinned 1.6mm plated thru hole can be cleaned out using solder wick. I have never damaged a pcb with it and it always works speedily and efficiently and does not waste eyeballs or lamp bulbs or copper.

Free thumb power !!

Hot air has many problems due to poor quality PCBs and cheap hot air soldering tools that do not control the temperature properly. Often it is easier and does less damage to use a good quality soldering iron and do it fast with localized heat.

Heat is no the same as temperature. It is perfectly safe and within the spec of the FR4 and the components. Due to the mass being heated the overall temp is just about the melting point of Sn/Pb 60/40 so well withing the reflow temperature range. That is the difference between an professional and an amateur with a hammer. The skill is knowing how hard to hit it.

@@razenbyYou are an imbecile who has obviously never soldered anything in your life. Every pad on that board has a copper trace that conducts heat very rapidly along to other components which are heat sensitive. The longer you sit there, with molten solder in contact with the circuit, the more you fry the components all around. Fact.