Yes, it takes 1800W to get 1600W. Efficiency of these units is somewhere near 90%, which approximately accounts for your ~200W discrepancy. Further, when drawing so many amps, you need very large wire (like 4/0) unless it's like 1 foot (1/3 meter) or something, or your voltage drop will be too much. Test what the volts are at the inverter with a standard voltage meter when you're using high power appliances, and I'll be it's at or below 10.5v due to voltage drop over the wires, hence the shutoff. There are calculators online to get the right wire gauge.

Thank you so much. It is in my cart with a few others but now it might get removed. Your system was to spec and all parts were of high quality. You get an A+ for Explanation. 3000 Watt requres much more so please look into that.

Love my renegy 2000 watt inverter. Used it with my kuerig coffee maker and 1850 watt hair dryer on my 12v 200 ah Weize lithium battery and works great and highly recommend.

Is there a part 2 to this video? I'm very curious now because my Renogy 3000w is coming in 5 days and now I'm worried it won't function as advertised.

Had exactly the same problem, same inverter, same circuit breaker, changed the circuit breaker to heavy duty battery isolator and 225A mega fuse...works fine . figured the 225A circuit breaker can't really handle the current and starts to fail, tripping the inverter. Thanks for your channel your video really helped

This panel can put out close to 100 watts ukposts.infoUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.

If you decide to go 3000 watt over the 2000 watt, keep in mind the idle current will be higher. If you can afford to lose higher amount of amps, go for it. I have 1000 watt inverter charger and a 500 watt inverter. I also at firsf had 200 watt solar panels. 500 watt served me well when using computer, tv , or stereo while idle current is only 0.7 amps while my inverter charger draws 2.5 amps but only used it for vacuum or microwave.

Excellent review. I was going to buy the 3000w model but will wait for now. I will try to search your videos to see if you decided differently etc. Thanks for sharing amen, James & Kitties

Your intelligence and beauty is unparalleled. Thanks for sharing 🍸

Running the same 2000W. Hooked it up last week. Used 0/1 wire in a 6 foot run in my Class C.. pricey but do it right. 200 amp + fuse. Ordered a Renogy Volt meter (really worth the money as u wont always be guessing where the battery status is at . Runs my solo Keurig with no issues. Running off two new Trojan 6 volt T105’s. I tried a 2000 Power Drive bluetooth inverter before this one and it could not cut it with the Keurig. Happy with this unit.

Go for a 3000 Watt inverter. Manufacturers, particularly the budget ones, tend to exaggerate the actual power output by a fairly wide margin. It is also better to not run them at close to their maximum rating for very long, particularly if you don’t want the fan coming on very often. Make sure to test your air conditioner too. A 5000 BTU A/C likely draws about 2500-3000 Watts for a few seconds during startup. Air Conditioners are quite difficult to power with inverters. You might consider getting an inverter/charger. That would allow you to charge the batteries from AC shore power. You also get much better monitoring and far more intelligent handling of power. I swapped my inverter with a Xantrex Freedom XC inverter/charger and am thrilled with it. One of the best decisions I ever made. You can also run multiple inverters. One small one for light loads like a laptop or charging phones, and a bigger one you can switch on when you need high power.

Your problem is the difference between an inductive load and a resistive load. Inverters and generators rated at 2000W are only capable of delivering that into a resistive load, when connected to an inductive load it may only be capable of delivering 1200W-1500W depending on the power factor. Take a closer look at the specifications of your inverter but I am pretty sure it's not faulty.

The 200 watts is because it needs 200 extra watts to deal with the inductive load. This is a power factor issues. Look up apparent power (kVA) vs Reactive Power(kVAr). And research inductive loads vs. resistive loads. Then research low frequency inverters vs. high frequency inverters. Then you’ll realize why the Renogy inverter was showing a 200 watt difference and could not power most of her appliances. It’s not a bad inverter. It’s a high frequency inverter(HF). And HF inverter can’t deal with inductive loads very well. She needs to purchase a 3000 watt low-frequency inverter. Maybe purchase a Sun Gold LF series 4000 watt or a Victron 3000 LF inverter. But these cost high $. And you’ll differentially need two batteries with at least 200 amp BMS.

Your very knowledgeable, I am just starting to put together a solar system and this is very helpful. Where did you get those battery disconnects? Thank you

The renogy name would suggest if they claim 2k watts it would be able to do 2k watts continuous. A current shunt would be the best way to analyze how much power its consuming. The lower the voltage the more the current and the faster the voltage goes. None the less I'm second guessing buying this inverter even though I have a few renogy items that have worked flawlessly thus far. I digress well put together video. I'm am now a subscriber thankyou for your help

Enjoyed your candor! I'm running into same thing.

you arent missing 200 watts, you losing powerfactor to the fans, when you account for power factor the math works out, use a purely resistive load and see how that goes.

I just ordered a 3,000 Renogy pure sine wave inverter. I got 2 x 230 amp hour redodo batteries, 4/0 copper cables, etc. As soon as my hydraulic crimping tool gets here, I’ll assemble it and see how it runs my new camper. It will run a microwave 6 hours, central AC about 2 1/2, but hoping much longer if it cycles. I have 190 watts factory solar, going to add another 200 watt panel too.

I looked at one of these two days ago to run a sump pump from my pickup to get spring water. I wound up buying an Ampeak 2000 watts inverter, 12 volts. I already have a 24 volts Aims inverter charger 2000 watts...it will do the rating. But it weighs 46 pounds too. Low frequency pure sine wave. I have it hooked to 20 AutoZone marine batteries. With two sets of #2 welding leads. The cables don't ever get warm.

Love those solar panels. 👍

Thank you, good information. You may have saved me a lot of time and money.

I wonder what the low voltage cut off is on that inverter. Looking at the battery voltage, it dropped down to low 12V range. The Lifepo4 BMS may of cut in and done something if any of the individual lifepo4 cells within went into low voltage threshold. Infact my money is one of the cells within the battery went down to 2.5-2.0v triggering the BMS unless the inverter low voltage cutoff is set at 11V or something

88% efficiency is decent for an inverter by itself. For 150a that wire gauge and length will easily result in 0.25v drop which is 35watts by itself. Non- problem. Use 2ft 4/0 awg cables without all the connections and retest.

dont forget, the type of load you are applying. If you plan to use up to 2000 watts regularly, you should get at least a 2500 or 3000. You always want wiggle room instead of constantly maxing out your system.

Was about ready to buy the same one! If the wattages is a 2000 Watts Max realistically it is a thousand watt inverter.nice job!! go with 7000 or 8000 watt inverter. It will serve your purpose a lot more better and then you'll be able to do the things you want to do! Awesome I 'm doing the some thing!

I too have a 2000 watt inverter in my diesel motor home and it runs everything fine. On my sailboat that was totally off grid I used Xantrex Prowatt Sw2000 - True Sine Wave Inverter and I was able to run an induction plate at full power. That being said with what you want to run (at least what you are talking about in your videos) a 3000 watt might be a better choice for you. If you read the specs most of the 2k inverters are around 1800 watts continuous and peak at or just above he 2000 watts..... That being said living off grid is about learning to manage your power. You have said you want the instant pot which I believe is 1100 watts or rough numbers 10 amps @12v so every hour you run the instant pot you will deplete your battery by 10AH add on computers lights etc... it will add up. I personally the xantrex stuff they have been around for a long time and make a quality product. I know others have said go 24 volt but in your small system that doesn't make sense.... Thank you for putting out quality content!!!! Bob

OMG!! YOU ROCK!! REFUND REFUND REFUND!! Sorry I just now found you... Below is my 2 cents, as I have returned a few myself. -@5:06 Shunt shows 13.3 and MM shows 13.26, one in the same. It is very common at such low voltages to be off by 0.20V when using different devices to measure. -@5:55 A 3VAC swing when under a 5% load means that thing is garbage. Hardly anyone is paying attention to the actual VAC output. VAC output is super important, and I am so glad you are looking at many test points, taking many different readings. You say you are not a pro, but sure are testing like one. -@6:50 200W of 2000W is about a 10% loss. 85%-90% efficiency is average. Most of that loss is heat from the conversion. If it shuts off 12.8V under less than 2kW, it again is garbage. Refund PLEASE!! In an effort to extend stays on my new (to me) boat I have been testing inverters, and batteries. The 7th inverter I tried did the trick. The output did not change under load, or low input voltage. An inverter by design is a sort of voltage regulator. The first 6, and the one you tested here, clearly did not do their job as voltage regulators. So far in my journey, Victron Energy has been outstanding. However the 7th inverter, that I decided to keep is the BougeRV 2000W with Bluetooth. I did not have the budget for the $1,200 Victron Mutli, so I had been looking at alternatives. This one a.co/d/i6uqDVU has been outstanding. I hope some of that helps you out. Thanks for the video. I am gonna go look for some more of you. Keep up the good work. Stop second guessing yourself, you're doing great! Safe travels!!

I purchased an inverter from harbor freight and it's a monster. It operates everything I connect up to it and never shuts down. The renogy 3000 with model is my 2nd time with the same problem. It can barely operate a simple fan motor without shutting off

Going larger is never a bad idea. Pressing equipment to its max usual leads to problems.

Saw your Instagram post. Can't wait for the follow-up

what size/type wire are you running directly from the inverter terminal to 120 volt outlet that lets you get that high of amperage out of it?

I've been looking at a Renogy 3500 watt combination charger/inverter. The unit has extra intelligence, and many different modes of operation are programmable. The idea is to install it on our campground golf cart to perform a number of duties. For one thing, the device will allow the large golf cart batteries to power our stationary trailer during any power failure. For another thing, it will allow me to charge the golf cart with solar panels on a regular basis (as well as during any extended power failures course). Finally, it can charge the golf cart batteries without attaching an external charger, and be programmed to work in Uninterruptable Power Supply mode to protect the trailer refrigerator from any power failures when we are away. With the optional small BT-2 unit, all electrical parameters can be monitored via phone app via Bluetooth. Perhaps that unit would provide what you need, AND cut down on equipment count/weight/space?

I've been running appliances in a large diesel motorhome since 05 off a 2000w continuous duty inverter & all works fine. 3000w not needed. My microwave draws ~160A from the 12v batteries. Either the Renogy 2kw isn't continuous duty or it's faulty

Go with the bigger unit, you don't want to run at the max anyway. looking pretty good! by the way, if you're ever thinking of heating or cooling the camper you will want to go way bigger on everything. the only reason you needed as big as you have is because of cooking.

I have the 1000 watt model. I find that I’m also loosing an extra 200 W. I also have the same issue with the fan running and hot air coming out.

Are those small leads from inverter 12 volt, Not 120?

When your inverter alarm sounded and it shut down which of the front LED lights illuminated, the yellow or red? Thanks

Great thanks plenty of info.

Hook your shunt up as close to your battery as possible and get a low frequency inverter and always go twice as big as you think you will use

Please do a follow-up vid. I'm in the market for a 2000 watt inverter and am unsure which one to buy. I've seen mixed reviews on Renogy inverters.

very interested.Dear one question.Because in my place there are many lightings .in case some parts are burned ,even PIC chips ,will you sell me to replace them???

I wonder if it's overheating. You mentioned that the fans kept turning on even with no load on the inverter. Anyway, I'm enjoying these videos. I also plan to wire up a trailer to charge with solar, the truck alternator, and grid power. Though my plan is to use all DC devices from the battery. Looking forward to the next video! :)

I have gone through many new inverters thinking something was wrong…turned out after all kinds of isolation tests….It was my cheap circuit breaker that got stuck in closed position but indeed tripped however not visible from looking at it.( I had the same types she has until I switched to more expensive brand)

An inverter rated at 2,000 watts is required to *output* 2,000W. Period. End of statement. Beyond that, any inverter worth buying should briefly support twice the rated wattage. Best in class units sustain overloads for up to 30 seconds. Any loss (and 10% at 12V is to be expected) is measured *between* the input and output. The output is *never* derated for losses. In short ~2,222W in (185+A @ 12Vdc) and 2,000W out (16+A @ 120Vac). If the inverter doesn't meet its rating, return it. Lyn, for the usage profile you outline, a 3,000W inverter is overkill. There are lots of 12V PSW inverters available (in the same price range) from very reputable manufacturers from which to choose.

Thank you for the explanation on the D/C in and A/C output. You said the 3 outlets have 15amps, but I need to know how many amps the direct wire outlet port is. Is it 15,20,25amps??? Thank you.

The inverter should run at 2000w continuous is what the spec says with peak 4000w surge and your testing looked fine, yes it could be a faulty product but do consider the battery bms too as it might not be continuous, but a peak rating. Had mixed reviews over the years Renogy plus so have lot's of other brand's! (Made in China some time is ?) however victron gear seems to hold there owen. Good luck

The 200W discrepency may include the power used for the internal functions of the inverter. Often it consumes power for the drive circuits that turn DC into AC. They are only about 70-90% efficent in most cases, depending on the design of the inverters internal circutry.

You have to account for your wire positive and negative 4 awg wire run too.

Is there is 6000 watt or 8000 watt inverter Renogy inverter

I can say that all these stand alone inverters seem to have issues. Since I started using 3 - 5kw hybrid (solar) inverters (in my case from SAKO Sunpolo & Sunun Pro) which are supposed to power a home I didn't have any issues. The hybrid inverter gives you a charger and MPPT controller too along with WiFi monitoring. The MPPT controller will require a relatively hight starting voltage which you might not be able to achieve with a less than 1000W panel setup. But in this case you can add a separate inexpensive MPPT charger. Bit the inverters/chargers are real powerhouses. Maybe worth a thought.

Id say the missing 200 watts is the inverters efficiency. Unless there is some power factor not being taken into account, but the Victron shunt would be wattage of the fan Plus the inverters inefficiency.

can you plug a techomey mini fridge for this set up ?

My 2000 watt inverter popped and stopped working under 1300 watts. Renogy honored their warranty

I agree with the 24V suggestion. Since you have already 2 huge batteries on hand. But you might have to change more of your charging setup.

The specs says there is

Great video. Those pesky Gremlins need a few hundred watts to do their job. Thank you for your time.

I had the same inverter running in my cabin. I have two one year old deep cycle batteries connected. Only lights can be run. 32" LED television will run for few minute then alarm at inverter goes on. When I check, it has about 43% left. Very odd.... and not what I was expected....

Many inverters dont live up to what they advertise on the box.I cant use my Reliable 3000 Watt pure Sign Wave inverter because it cant start my 6000 btu A/C very sad. I had to substitute a Harbor Freight 2000 Watt inverter and now i can run my A/C .The only problem is the H.F inverter is not a pure sign wave so the digital A/C makes a slight humming noise. Now i was thinking on buying the Renogy 2000 Watt Inverter,which should handle the load w/o the humming.

I am currently having issues exactly the same as you are with a renogy 3000watt inverter. Renogy replaced it and the replacement is doing exactly the same thing. It will run for a short time and the turn off. It does not get hot and the fans never turn. I am not over powering the inverted only giving it a load of 1490w and it cannot handle it. Their tech support suggested returning it for my money back and buying another brand call AIMS. WOW

What was the end result of this? you were talking about your unit and you might try a new one, what came of that?

What was your solution? I have the very same problem right now with my 2000 watt Renogy inverter….

Thanks. I think I will still buy it but then the 3000W model since I want it to run 2000W without problems. Of course the 2000W inverter should run a 2000W load, but yeah, for these kind of prices I am not complaining. You can buy a nice (and better) Victron but it is also often not rated for 2000W continous when you are talking about 20 minutes or so. Temperature is a big factor here as well.

I would go with the 3000 yes it will use more power but pay close attention to your power plan .

The problem is currency peak when you switch on some appliance...... you need invertor between 2500-3000W to consume 2000w of energy....simplified. When you start fridge for example the currency peak can be 4x higher.....

Don't know if you resolved the issue or what your decision was...but I have the same inverter, and was able to run an 1850 item (a couple different ones) for over 5 mnutes without shutdown. I actually stressed the unit in a test and pulled 208 amps (12.8 v) and the unit ran for over a minute...my inline fuse (200amp) was starting to go....so stopped the test. I did try to start my 15k rv a/c and when the compressor tried to kick on after the fan started, it tripped the internal gfci on the inverter.

I am doing a similar mod in our motorhome here in the uk, I opted for the Giandel 3000w pure sine wave and am yet to get one that does half the job, i have had 2 now off amazon and they both act just like yours - apart from the fact i hardly had anything connected drawing much - less than 1000w and they beep and shut down, i have just printed off the returns label to send the second one back.

Ditch that thing and spend the extra money on the Xantrex Prowatt SW2000 2000W True Sinewave Inverter. It's designed for continuous use of 1800 watts. High wattage appliances. ..And it stays cool. As it has both active and passive cooling.. And yes I install this system all the time. As your not the only one that finds out the hard way. How cheap built some of these are.. Good Luck

I have had a few of thier 2000w inverters fail

8 years ago I bought a cheap 1500W aliexpress pure sine wave inverter which still works fine. I use power tools, fridge, induction hob. It only uses 150mA on standby. Renolgy is good for solar, but their inverters are rubbish. You also need to look at a real life situation like when would you ever be using all your power items at once, in the electrical world we call it load diversity.

Isn't on the algo-lifted top comments, so here goes a suggestion on what could be the problem with 1800/2000 Watts. Many AC loads are partially inductive and thus their current is phase shifted compared to the voltage. This means that the load current is at an angle (90 degrees for purely inductive load, -90 for purely capacitive) and in order to get the needed real current (x axis), the apparent current (hypotenuse) needs to be that much longer. The reactive current (y axis) is needed from the supply, the wire needs to be thick enough to carry it, but the reactive current is not used by the load and "is sent back to the supply". Wikipedia has decent if lengthy explanation on the subject of power factor. Another reason the inverter shut off before its rated output was reached could well be that motors need double the rated current for startup period (until running speed has stabilised) and the inverter isn't liking that at all. Normal fuses take a double of their rated current for quite some time before tripping. Creating AC that has stable frequency, that does not sag and doesn't contain too much harmonics isn't very easy, which is why inverters have only now became reasonablyish priced.

Hello very good video. The fans on the inverter are noisy.

My experience is that anything with a motor creates problems with standard, high frequency inverters. Always specify a larger unit, batteries and solar array than you think you need. The idle current and losses are higher and the cables are expensive, but it will do what you want it to do. Fridges suck.

Anyone tried a low frequency inverter yet?

Basically, everything that really needed to be said has already been said in the comments below. I just wanted to put it in my own words anyhow. Why? Because I have time, I'm bored, and why the hell not. I happen to be an electrician. That in no way makes me an expert on DC power. In fact, while I have a good working understanding of electricity in general, learning about DC systems for my RV has been, interesting. So, without going into loads of technical details that nobody is going to follow, there are some very general rules that DIYers can apply. 1) Once you figure out what you think you need mathematically in terms of power, there are two additional factors to consider. The Expansion Factor and for lack of better words, the "Reality Factor". Lets start with the reality factor because that's pretty straight forward. If you determine for example that you will draw 1800 watts with every appliance on at the same time, you might decide on a 2000w inverter (because 1800w inverters are not exactly common). A general rule of thumb is to add 20% capacity. More on that in just a second, but basically, you never want to run anything ( i mean like ANYTHING, motors, generators, inverters, ANYTHING) at 100% or near 100% rated capacity. In the most general of terms, the rated capacity of anything is what something can safely run for short periods of time. In some cases, a VERY SHORT period of time before things either melt down or they otherwise shut themselves off as a matter of self preservation. Adding (as a general rule of thumb) 20% additional capacity gives you enough head room to really consume the power you want to draw. (There are other considerations, for example, you're probably never going to run every appliance at once, but you are generally building any system for a worst case scenario). So 20% of 2000w is 400w additional. Now, generally speaking (seeing a theme here), you would be lucky to find an inverter of 2400w or 2500w. I'm not saying none exist, but companies generally go from 1000w to 2000w to 3000w. So depending on the brand you wish to go with, you may find that the next step up is 3000w. Thus, once taking the "Reality factor" into consideration, your 1800w power needs will best be paired with a 3000w inverter. Hopefully you are sizing your entire system around happily supplying your 3000w inverter. Yes, everything will be somewhat bigger than it "Technically" needs to be. But that "Reality Factor", as you are discovering, works in strange ways. The power factor concerns as pointed out by a previous commenter being one such bug bear. The bottom line is, we tend to do "Easy Math" because it's easy. The reality is, there is more going on than the Easy Math shows you. That's essentially why there's a general 20% extra rule. 2) The expansion rule is even a bit more subjective, and you can handle it in two ways. So the Expansion Factor takes into account the basic truism of life. What ever it is you need today, you're going to want twice more of tomorrow. Now, I'm not suggesting that in the example above, that one should move to a 6000w inverter and the commensurate system needed to support it. That is 1 of the two ways one might go about handling this Expansion Factor. But assuming money IS a factor, the other way to handle the Expansion Factor is to face that beast UP FRONT. One would be well advised to consider what one would need to double the capacity derived in number 1 above. Anything that is particularly difficult to get to (access), or expensive to replace, one might think about biting the bullet and spending the money up front to accommodate an expanded system later. For example, buying the wire needed for a 3000w system, while cheaper than the wire needed for a 6000w system, is still expensive. And the labor cost of manufacturing the cables and installing all that wiring? If your time is like my time, the cost of doing this is VERY EXSPENSIVE, and it's not a cost you want to endure twice. You don't have to USE the extra capacity you have built in. But you CAN'T use extra capacity in the future that doesn't exist. Strategically spending money upfront can in many cases save you money, time, effort and other resources in the future. One might additionally consider SPACE. Should you want to increase the Battery Bank in the future, do you have the room, and not just any room, but THE RIGHT room to add additional batteries? Is there generally enough room TOO expand into? And component's. Especially components that are rather expensive. Let's say a 3000w inverter is $500. And a 6000w inverter is $1000 Sure, you wanna save yourself $500 on the upfront cost. But later on when you decide you want a 6000w inverter, now that $1000 inverter is going to cost you $1600. Why $1600? Because 1) the cost of the inverter was $1000 a year or two ago. Now, that inverter is $1200. Further 2), ain't nobody want your used ass 3000w inviter unless you're gonna effectively give it to them. So, one might consider with the most expensive components, pre-emptively upgrading those from the very start. Upgrade the system with consideration of the Expansion Factor where things are going to cost you the most down the road, or in some cases, will outright prevent you from expanding at all. In the future, you can always add more solar, or a new charger or even an inverter to the system. But you will thank yourself many times over if the BULK of the work and expense to upgrade was taken care of from the start. It may be the case that you NEVER use the additional capacity you built in. Those larger wires were never used to their potential. Those more expensive components were never used to their potential. But there are always additional benefits to these things. Components can be removed and moved to a new build. The wire you left behind is a selling point to the next owner who effectively has a rig prewired to accept 6000w of power consumption. In general terms, you're almost always better to figure these two factors in from the start (The Reality Factor and the Expansion Factor). Millions of people have learned about these two factors the hard way. If you have ever been forced to rewire an RV to accommodate some serious solar power, you will know just how difficult installing that stuff is. You don't want to have to pay twice and more so, you don't want to have to tear out the work you already did and re-install upgraded components. This is a fools errand. Obviously budgets are a factor, and you may KNOW FOR A FACT that you will never use more than 1800w in your RV. Sure, then, skip the Expansion factor. But the 20% reality factor is virtually mandatory. And that's exactly the reason your 2000w inverter is not performing the way you thought it would. It's not that the Inverter is faulty (and I'm not a fan of Renogy). The fact is, almost every 2000w inverter is going to have the same capacity issue you are running into. You don't have the headroom you need. And virtually nothing should ever be run at 100% or even 90% of it's "Rated Capacity" for more than a few minutes. With inverters especially, the "Continuous Watts" claim is questionable at best (because of things like power factor that they are not informing lay people about), or outright false advertising in the case of many "Cheap" alternatives. I'll leave you with one more story. I recently bought a 500w 12v inverter that came with a cigarette plug and alligator clamps. The literature tells you correctly that you will only be able to draw a max of 150 watts out of a cigarette plug, which is technically not a lie if your plug is fused at 15 amp. But most cig plugs are fused at 10 amps so you are lucky if you can draw 100w continuous without blowing the fuse. And if you put a bigger fuse in, the wires in the vehicle will melt, light your car on fire and you will die in a fiery Hollywood style explosion. Most people SHOULD understand how Cig plugs work, but you would be surprised how many people don't understand why you can't get 500 watts out of the inverter when plugged in this way. But more interesting to me is the alligator clamps that come with the inverter. The instructions say to clamp directly to a battery in order to get the max watts. Well, first off, a 500 watt inverter isn't going to run 500 watts continuous for very long without either shutting off or destroying itself. But the wires on the alligator clamps aren't NEARLY large enough to run 500 watts. 41amps over 14awg wire? I don't think so jack. You want a fire in your engine compartment? Because that's how you get a fire in your engine compartment. What's the point of this story? I think in many ways, the Alligator clamps that come with this 500w 12v inverter are physical tangible evidence for why the 500w continuous rated inverter, can't actually run 500w continuous. Just like the wires that were included, the components in the inverter are not physically capable of running that much power for long periods of time without overheating. It can do it for a little while, until the fan in the inverter is no longer able to dissipate the heat being generated. Then the unit will shut down, if it has built in protection. A very well known UKpostsr, (Will Prowse) has stated that most Inverters come with copper clad aluminum wire. He says very explicitly that you SHOULD NEVER USE the wire that comes with an inverter unless you are certain its pure copper. The wire that comes with most inverters is simply not up to the task of carrying the kind of power that the unit is advertised at continuously. In the same way, most inverters are not constructed to to continuously supply the rated power, or even 90% of rated power unless you install the unit in a freezer. And that is the best explanation I can give you for the 20% Reality Factor rule of thumb.

I bought one also and I had to return it. I put only 100w load and the unit tripped.

Go with a 3000 watt model. Don't design a power supply system that gives you exactly what you are going to use. Always design a buffer in the system so that should one of your appliances start to wear out, it won't take out your inverter in the process. Oh, and don't forget to put a 15 amp circuit breaker on that unlimited power port. Did you test the actual amps you were pulling, or just wattage? The unit may have been shutting down due to too much amps being drawn.

Interesting video. I bought the 1000W model, and with a 850W toaster it shuts off after a minute with a beep (overheat), so I'm having to downgrade the toaster to a 700W one. It seems the headline figure of 1000W is incorrect.

Bummer!!! That Sucks!!! Thank You!!! 🤷‍♂️🔌😃

Voltage drop on the input is the problem. She did all the voltage measurements at the start, but didn't measure the battery voltage and compare it to the voltage at the inverter input when it's under load. The cables from the battery are too long. Cable size is too small. Manufacturers recommend using a fuse instead of a circuit breaker, as fuses have slightly less voltage drop.

Hi you need 3500 watts inverter then it will do the job for you. that's what I'm using, and it works for me!!

Check online instructions. Frequently using plugs in front may not give you full inverter power (have had a 2000 watt inverter that would provide less than 1800 watts to plugs in front). To get full power you'll need to hardwire into the back connections. I apologize if you did this, it looked like you were coming off the front (edit note that you did this- outlet does need to be rated for amps, some household outlets are rated for 15a max). I also recommend trying thicker single wires if you want the full power (make sure any circuit breakers are blue sea or bussman). Temperature also plays into max watts you can get from an inverter. It could be that it just doesn't quite cut it and the inverter is faulty or you have very short surges you can't capture on your equipment. There's a lot of trouble shooting points. Regardless, wiish you best of luck with your next inverter.

use a fanless dish heater, 300 watts resistive load and they put out heat

2 x 12vdc 200amp batteries = 400amp capacity. So way above the inverters maximum requirement. If you can afford it go for the 3000 watt.

EVERY inverter I have seen or read about under performs at bout 60-70% of it's rating. I hope you do the 3000.

Yours may be faulty. Mine, the fans never run under 1000 watts. At 1300 Watt draw, mine runs the fans occasionally. At close to 2000, the fans run continuous, and I've never has the unit shut down. Having said that, I bought the 2000 to run 1000-1200 watts. If I was going to run any more, I would have got the 3000.

There have been a number of reviews on this model. at 5% 1 star on Amazon. Mostly for DOA and poor customer support.

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Im changing my 12v to 24. I went with 12 but 24 gives double

It seems like this unit will do OK but not great. Is the 3000w too big and heavy?

You said that the input voltage "shouldn't be a problem". You should have measured the input voltage directly at the inverter input terminals while under maximum load before condemning this inverter. . An excessive Voltage drop may the cause of your shut down.

2 x 3000w renogy inverters failed me within 6 months. Just ordered a giant and will eventually just go Victron as I am 100% offgrid and need reliability.

Hi am from Bangladesh. How can i get it?

So ... an 2000w max rated power - 10% Inverter Efficiency - 3.2% loss: Cables ,conections, Shunts etc = 1736w Real max continous output power... and after that it shut off it seems normal and logical..so there is your discrepancy, because the shunt shows draw before the inverter (before the efficiency loss) and the wattmeter after the inverter (after efficiency loss) pull in 1800w but push out only 1620w.

2:27 been searching a few videos and all the "experts" keep spinning around,and there u said plain as day than you 🤗

if i see it corectly for us in europe the power plug on the side is for land power , not voor power out...

The battery will be hard pressed to run the power-hungry appliances mentioned for any reasonable length of time. Assuming the battery is 12.8V nominal - 12.8V x 400AH = 5.12kWH of which 80% is usable, 5.12kWH x 80% = 4.1kWH. Assuming a generous DC/AC conversion by the inverter of 85%, 4.1kWH x 85% = 3.4kWH AC. On a cold night a 1.5kW electric heater will run the battery down from full in about 2 hours. The high demand appliances are not wise choices with a battery inverter system.

Definitely should have a higher rating for loads like that. A 2000w would only be good for a fridge and maybe a couple fan.

Wires u get with inverter are useless,u need bigger ones to get maximum use from inverter

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hew a lot of figuring out!