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The tool head moves from one side to the other a couple of times each time sensing the build plate. It then uses that data to level and sync the Z motors

Thank you very much

How would you say it compares to a bambuu p1p

@@smokecali2599 I don't have a bambu (it looks nice, but I can't deal with such data blackhole). Of course, R2 is slower (heavy X beam, heavy printhead), but it provides claimed 150mm/s with 0,6 nozzle / 0,25 layer. Somewhere at 200mm/s extrusion fails (same 0,6/0,25). CHT nozzle could help, but I suppose even Chinese manufacturers can't put clones on their machines and original is overpriced. Anyway, there's no 24/7 job for my printer and most of materals have their own limitations. Printing quality and accuracy are fine, but motor steps required adjustment about 0,5% to move from fine to great (in case you need accuracy 0,1mm/100mm).

@@Rho-Tixfirst day impressions on the vanilla (without any addons, not even the sensor) FBR2 for me are good. frame for me looks straight, so do the doors. upgrade from Ender 3 for sure. the bed heater for larger prints need time due to some weird archidecture of the bed - there are big metal shims in there that need some extra to heat up. right-side filament roll mount is covered with abrasive paint, there are videos of people putting rollers in the printer behind the bed instead. the manual is trash. there should be just a big QR code to this playlist instead of any instructions at all which it currently does have. Prusa Slicer profiles are to be found after some googling. they should have the different software profiles uploaded with the rest of the files or added to the included memory card. I will see how the printer in stock form goes and after a week or so I will upgrade the motherboard to BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 and add Klipper with RPi3+ that I already have with added function of input shaping to get more speed out of it. so far so good

it doesnt man. I own this and 2 p1p units as well as 4 x1c units...my shop is a graveyard of retired units since the bambu stuff arrived last year. @@smokecali2599

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При подключении автоуровня все нормально выставляется и запускается печать, но из-за приклееного магнитного стола металлическая накладка на стол не прогревается до выставленной в меню температуры. В меню выставляю температуру 110 градусов, а магнитный стол прогревается максимум до 87 градусов в центре и до 70- 75 градусов по краям. Из-за чего пластик срывает с поверхности. Поэтому я снял магнитный стол и отключил автоуровень, но в без него в ручную не получается настроить печать.

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