You're very welcome! I'm glad I was able to help you on your tiling journey

😁😁😁

Thank you! I'm glad this video was able to help you!

Thank you Tim appreciate the support

Thanks for watching Alan!

Thanks Kyle glad that we could help you!

You're welcome! I hope your project went !

Glad you liked it

My pleasure!

Haha thank you! And thank you 👏🏻👏🏻

You're very welcome!!

Agreed!

It's an important step a lot of people miss then wonder why their inside corners are cracking when filled with grout!

Good luck!

Thanks Judy! Hope your project came out awesome!

@That Tile Chick Wellll... it's a good start . Too much lipage in parts, even using the clip system. Backbuttering like it was jam. Lol

👌👌👌

You're very welcome, unfortunately the hard way is the way most people learn, I've been there myself!

Mapei Flexcolor CQ is a great product as well!

That's all I have had access to in BC Canada. Latacrete isn't available around here sadly

@@Matt-my7pz yea i think i am switching to Spectralock 1

@@PeterYurkins have you used them both? What's does spectalock have for qualities and compare to Flexcolour

@@Matt-my7pz All laticrete products are available at Centanni tile in Burnaby

What brand did you use?

@@ThatTileChick I used (3) Grout Commercial 100% Silicone Sealant 381 Bright White. I am cleaning up the wavy white porcelain shower tile surface again. Then, I will use a plastic putty knife to smooth and level a new application of white Fast Dry Caulk Plus Silicone White. Since this is my first shower tile project I need all the help I can get. In the Master Bathroom floor I am putting in 8x8 encaustic tile, and your video on putting up this tile is very helpful! Thanks!

To me its worth the price of admission not having to worry about watering the grout out too much, color variations or bad batches of powder.

We all have learned the hard way at some point =)

*dumb

I would wait at least 24-36 hours, depending on humidity and temperature.

For a scenario like that I would tape off any surface that isn’t going to receive grout. So if I’m grouting a transition from tile to wood I would put blue tape or purple tape (won’t remove finish if left on too long) and then grout. Also keep in mind tile to any hard surface should like a termination should be getting a flexible sealant like grout color matched silicone or grout color matched acrylic caulk!

That's a good question. I cant find the information on that anywhere. It does say on the data sheet that the shelf life of the factory sealed product is 1.5yrs. But nothing about being open and in use. I would just be careful it doesn't skim over. I work slow and its never happened to me.

2 bucket method - I do the same thing! Great tip.

​@@ThatTileChick I do a lot of samples and push this time frame and often, but 6 months would be my rule of thumb. The key is to have the barrier card down on the grout and lid sealed.

This is also a phenomenal idea.. saves from constant trips of new water.

No issues here with the Spectralok 1. The only issue I have seen is that if you saturate the joints the grout wants to pop out of the joints. In that case we dry out the joint as best as we can and then fill as needed.

To be fair, we bought it 3 years ago and I don't know what I'm doing either but I'm not a contractor. They did not use any silicone in the entire shower other than around the water controls. We have big grout lines in the corner where every plane changes, they all are wearing out in the spaces that had the most exposure to water. We had a handy-guy friend come over and try to add silicone in the spaces where grout was used, but it was unsuccessful, the grout seal definitely failed and the grout absorbs any water that it touches. Lucky we have another shower in the house. We started to notice cracks within the first 6 months like you say. Thanks again for doing this video, and again I really appreciate calling out the standard because I'm not a contractor and I don't know this stuff, but I have been hearing people say "don't put grout in that space" and they never show what to do in that space, everybody just fast-forwards to "ok we're done grouting" and you see this beautiful corner, and nothing has been said about how it got like that, other than "don't put grout!" Even in Home RenoVision's full bathroom remodel video, he skips right over this part.

I thought there was also a chance I'm ahead of myself with my grout saw and the right thing to do now is to just dig out all the grout from where it wasn't supposed to go, fill it with silicone, and douse the entire area with impregnator sealer. But very much afraid this will turn out poorly and we'll be at it again in a few years. I figure if we're going to do it at all, probably worth redoing the whole thing now. If you read this far, my actual question is, is it possible to add grout to grout or am I setting myself up to failure if I don't remove basically all of the grout before I start adding more grout now? Is it OK to just dig out enough grout so I can put down a new layer of grout? Will my new grout adhere to the old grout if it's clean, or do I want to dig out all the existing grout down all the way to the backer board?

Small sections are a must !

Absolutely

We always er on the side of caution with grouts and use the stronger (and usually more expensive product) for our installations.

@@ThatTileChick Thanks, I am going to grab the better product. 🍺🍻🍺 CHEERS!!!

Is the grout old?

This is a 1gal bucket. I am just tiny so it looks bigger next to me lolol

Semper Fi Ken! I would highly recommend either Laticrete Spectralok 1 or Mapei Flexcolor CQ both are similiar products and can be found at your local floor and decor. If not you can order it online no problem

Thank you Ma'am. I'm torn between doing it myself or hiring someone with experience in grout refresh. The question becomes is the juice worth the squeeze? In any event, God bless and rock on @@ThatTileChick

Shut up you couldn’t mix thinset and you know it

Thats fucked up man

@@davidalexander3093😂😂seriously

Just did a white marble shower. I used SpectraLock 1 on the shower floor tile only. It is overkill for most walls (unless it is a steam shower). Seal the tile first with 511 penetrating sealer, the day before. Then work 4-6 sq/ft max and wipe after 3-5 minutes max no matter what they say, and then wipe a second time to nearly clean. First wipe is more of a wet float process, the second wipe is to remove 90% of the product residue. After it reaches a barely dry state, wipe with the microfiber with a polishing intensity and motion. No bleeding, no scratches. The sand in the wash bucket is the finest sand I’ve ever seen. This is probably the reason it does not scratch the tile.

I was going to ask the same question. What brand is the best?