No solutions are not clear : Which glue you use for filling holes on the 1st example ? The 2nd with the pvc pipe is not an example, the 3rd with cement is for a professional. the 5th and 6th for DIY tiling are good. For the 7th with a cogwheel, none information on the materials use for the mold or the other between the mold and the wheel, the same.

​@@franckpairaud9289of course you have to watch the full videos in the creator's own channel. Quantum tech only show you the sped up summary of what he's doing.

Still some valuable ideas nonetheless, I liked the change from the more EXPENSIVE Versions, 😊👍

UV cured epoxy can be used as well, but it looks like he was using simple JB weld.

I did it with pattex "mille chiodi", and it holds up pretty well.

You mean Bondo?

1:06 This breaks again after one week.

😅😅😅ĵ

Do you mean body putty?

😅😅😅　:😅😮真、:

Thanks for the info. What solution can i apply for this problem?

@@mikg.7576 Cut slots into the frame for the louvres as well as gluing them

@@catclark9488 thanks a lot

Ce serait plus long et je ne suis pas bricoleuse mais avec un cadre solide, des chevilles à chaque coin ça pourrait aller (et si on veux pouvoir régler l'angle des ouvertures on pourrait ne fixer que 2 coins de cette manière et relier les autres à un cordon)

​@@mikg.7576 At the bottom of this response is a video of a guy making adjustable blinds. If you don't want them adjustable you can alter the design and add glue to the smaller "step" pieces. And use two pins per slat at the ends. Or cut slots in the stiles as indicated in a response above. (This could leave you with an exposed sloppy joint though, unless you cut a piece of veneer to cover the ends of the slots or can make exactly precise mortises for the slats. If you're not ever going to see the back of the louvres, or can live with the look, and want fixed slats, your simplest option is probably to cut small glue blocks that are slightly shorter in length than the width of the slats, and glue that to both the end of the slats (on their back faces) and the stiles. (Cut thin strips out of the slat material, about square, and then cut off about 3/4" long pieces. Imagine about 3/4" long section of the square top of a wooden chopstick.) So you have a little block of wood glued to the back side of each slat which is also glued to the stiles. Just make sure you are cutting the blocks out of longer strips, and not cross cutting them off the ends of slat material. You want long grain to long grain for gluing. ukposts.info/have/v-deo/pGR5nniPZ4OUxqM.html

Can you tell what he used in the first clip...what is that green stuff and what kind of glue is that?

@@umaedu3097 It is epoxy resin. It works by adding a tiny bit of a catalyst to the resin, which makes it quickly "set" and become hard. The green stuff is just fibrous material. What it is exactly doesn't matter, but it is probably wood-shavings from pressure-treated wood. Epoxy has it's uses, but it is very expensive and often ugly. Using it to repair a splinter-board cabinet door makes little sense to me, as real wood is cheaper than a bottle of epoxy, and looks better to boot. :)

Agreed. Better than some of the trashy click bait crap you see.

I hope that's a joke. Almost all of this is so time-consuming and low-quality that you'd need to be really poor and/or desperate. Buying parts and building a screen is almost never better the just buying a screen. It a new gear wheel. The cost of the stuff you need to buy is about as much as what you'd buy without wasting your time

I thought it was drywall.

waste of materials

Automotive body puddy will solve your problem. You don't have to guess.

It is two part epoxy.

​@@CemKalyoncuThe one in the right is. What's the one on the left? Wood glue and...?

Wood glue and saw dust

cum and rat droppings

It looks like cable trunking