Since your using a stand I don't think the rpm would be correct, as their is no resistance on the motor or esc, It's free spinning in the air. So the numbers would not be correct to make any adjustments. Please let me know?????

Glad it helped! Knowledge is power!

Glad you think so!

That would be cool!

There is a guy from Thailand you sells a back fire and smoke kit

Yes, great suggestion

@@RCReviewChannel i waiting that video jiji . thanks for you time dude !

Yep same here

The better be with their motors alone costing 150 bucks lol

The XR10 stock spec allows boost and turbo timing

@@blackotecan you run the d10 motor with the stock spec esc? And still run boost and turbo

@@daniell2xx699 yes you can

The mamba x has boost function aswell

I'm going with hobbywing ESC and rocket 10.5 motor

Strange one. Identical timing and Boost mode?

@@RCReviewChannelyeah it now revs to the 37 what ever it is cause wasn’t hitting the 100% wide open but I changed the turbo / timing like he did the boost and still sits at 37

or one that would go good with this combo?

Flysky noble

You don’t have to worry about the motor burning up with the timings that high?

​@@freerangehuman7016 Haven't had anything burn up yet. With Hobbywing, the degrees of timing are more like steering end points, they are not additive. Also, especially on the 10.5t motor, the built in fan on the rotor keep the temperatures down greatly. I've never hit the temperature shut off on the esc. With all this said, I would still keep an eye on your temps. If you're hot lapping for 30 or more minutes, you're putting a lot of heat into the bearing on the rotor of the motor. I run on mostly polished concrete and have my cars so gripped up through the suspension set up that I am rarely ever hitting full throttle or staying in the top end for more than half a second. But when my friends and I get into some aggressive chase sessions, I'm "peddling" the crap of the car exactly how I would in my real car.

​@@bobmalarkey4621 Thanks for the reply. I recently built two first time drift cars. I’m not new to building RC cars just drift cars. We built the new yokomo SD 2.0 for my son and a yokomo MD 2.0 for me. Both cars have hobby wing xd10 pro esc, d10 10.5t motors with futaba gyd550 gyros. Things were a little rough in the beginning but now we have the settings figured out for our driving conditions so we are getting some really nice results. I think the futaba gyro instructions stock settings are very unforgiving for a new driver. The futaba gyd550 gyro has to modes normal and AVCS we are sticking to normal for now as AVCS seems a bit aggressive. It holds the steering really hard. I also turned the damper down to 4 from the stock 5 setting for normal mode to find a good balance between the gyro holding power and steering. Now for the gyro gain I have it up to 120 from the stock 70 starting point. The gain seems high to what I’ve heard others using but it’s made our drifts smooth. Boost is at 20 and on auto for now, not rpm with turbo at 15 just enough punch when we need it. The cars are running in our basement on very smooth concrete most of the time we only need very light throttle modulation for a good smooth drift. We also have some expo tuning on our transmitters but that’s more of an individual need. I highly recommend some steering and throttle expo. The negative expo on steering helps a lot to prevent over correcting the steering during the drift at least this is how I feel as a new user.

@@freerangehuman7016 Cool. I run slight negative throttle curve as well. I also run 550s. I've got mine at 15 18 100 87, with a gain of 64 to 74 depending on the car and surface.

Is your sensor cable plugged in?

@@derekjackson7506 yes

For the drifting application, this Hobbywing solution is A+. Saying is crap is a bit juvenile and misguided.

Definitely user error. Man is salty. I've seen hobbywing setups podium with the Acuvance guys.

I hope you're trolling and if so, very poor attempt....

Lol hobbywing is the best bud