Yes the G201x cards with a proper balanced breakout card running them over 50v do perform great I agree !

Muy buen trabajo, muy inspirador para mi proyecto, Gracias!! Saludos desde Argentina

Definitely subscribed! Seeing your video made a light bulb go off in my head... Thank you!

Hi! Did you use eccentric bushings or some sort of bracket for the rails? Great build!

Hi...great news that you will provide us with plans to build cnc.. we are waiting ..

Hey guy! great job!! What kind of stepper motor are you using to make this monster work?

Hi, regarding the coupler that connects the stepper to the ball screw, do you think it is better to make a rigid one on a lathe or to buy a flexible one? Thank you

It looks nice. I would like to see it cutting. What's your drive and electronic setup?? Do you use Mach3??

compliments beautiful project, in my opinion much more practical as well. gently you put a video on the move, and construction details. Forgive my English but translated with google

This is very nice. Can you elaborate on the deflection issue? If the long axis is mounted to the table as 2 rails sperated by the mid axis distance, and the gantry moves forward and back on the 8020 (1545), is there really deflection?

oh and i see your running nema 23's , no problem with the power or would you sugest the nema 34's thanks again

where can i buy something like this ? already build and working

hI a quick question on your y axis, are you running a rack and pinion on both sides? and if so how do you wire that to your controller do you need 2 controllers to 2 steppers or one controller to 2 steppers? thanks for your time

Thumbs up for the raid can to set focus!

Thats a very intelligent solution to a cnc machine i like it!

great job!

nice unit, great work.

I would like to build CNC with dimensions/size just like Yours but I'm not sure should I make it just same with (two) *short X* with ballscrews and *long Y* (gantry) *OR* should I go for *long X* with rack and pinion and *short Y gantry with ballscrew? You have two *long* aluminum profiles for gantry so I supose they will not bend ? What do You think, which option is more practical for work around, less costly to make?

Thanks, If I was you and wanted to machine soft metals, I would worry more about the spindle then the steppers. I have Nema 23 570Oz on mine and I have cut aluminum with it. The limiting factor for me was the router/bit. I have ripped a 1/4" wide about 1/4" deep gouge into my MDF table before, the breaker for the router quit and the 23 nemas just kept going. As for lead screws, I dont know what you would need exactly, because I am running Rack and pinion. I did have the 1/2" rod for the Z axis.

Where did you by chance get the parts from ? So that i can make something like this

What type of controller system did you use with your table think Ive seen this somewhere before?

Can u tell me the dimensions of the V linear bearings and the dimensions of the corner black rail? Great work man!

great job! I have been kicking around the idea of a home built CNC. I have no experience with using a CNC or the software related with operating the machine. I fist thought of building a cheap little cnc but after seeing your video it make me want to go a little bigger, like 2x4. Any advice on where to start??

What exacly stepper motors did you use?

Nice machine. What software do you use? Can it use the free designs like the ones on the FreeDXF website

how do the x and y axis work. were are the lead scews? sorry new to this cool vid too

one word...! "AWESOMENESS"...!

thank you sir for this job pls sir i want to ask how i can Adjust the axes "X.Y.Z" in the zero and how i can define work area " size of my cnc table" in Mach 3

Do you have any drawings of the design you discussed? I am also a draftsman if you need this documented.

@RianoKan Thank you. The 8020 it self will twist/bend when under load. The way my beam is made I do not have any issues on the beam it self. For me its the carriages on the Y axis that twist, as well as the X axis carriage tends to twist, flex, etc if I place enough force. Maybe Deflection is the wrong word? I'm no engineer. But when the beam is under force (the 8020 that is) it will flex a certain amount, and this was very noticeable at the 10' beam length that i have. (8' cutting area)

@molceonly The play I mentoined was the amount of space the E-chain had between the 2 beams and not that of the wires. Those bolts do not hurt the echain, I get a smooth motion out of the chain, no bouncing off of any bolts. The reason for the larger E-chain was for potential future upgrades to a spindle with water cooling.

I put all the T nuts on the bolts while the C channel was free, then I slid them onto the extrusions. Tightened them down with a small socket wrench.

How much would one of these machines cost and is there a large market out there needing this type of work to be done? Thanks

Amazing Job, congratulation for you ;)

Hi, yes I have a rack and pinion on each side. You need a separate drive for each motor and in MACH 3 you Slave one side to the other and reverse it. Easy as that. As for 23's vs 34's the 23's had MORE then enough power for my machine the 34's would have been overkill.

Canada. You are the first person I have heard saying they are cheap where can you get them and for how much?

Hi, could you tell me where did you get the rack and pinion ? thanks

What plans did you use.

that's amazing

@macmainuk Hi, its rack and pinion drive, no lead screws. You see the bar on the side with all the little teeth. The steppers have a gear attached to them (at a 3:1 gear ratio, i think), that is how it moves.

Make sure you test it for twist. Twist in the X axis is a killer... Especially when machining harder materials.

@MrFrabcabert Yeah, but will it bend if it is fully supported from below? I am making a 6' axis with 2 1545's. I forgot to mention, there will be a 1/4" steel plate on the top to act as linear rails, so maybe our designs don't match up. I hope it works.

Speaking of "where you live", what is your home address and when are you not at home? Also, will this mill fit through your door and is there a staircase that needs to be navigated in order to take it outside for routine maintenance? Just curious.

nice job man greathing from morocco

sir i m very much interested in building my own cnc routerbut i have no knowlwdge of electronics.which course should i join to learn so that i can build my own cnc router

@MrFrabcabert well, than it's a very well build beautiful hybrid monster. love your works really.

@RianoKan the beams are 8020, the carriages are MDF

25 series is what I used. I guess your definition of cheap is different than mine. $100 x 4 + international shipping/duties, etc. is lots for me. Never mind the fact that I got 10' beams so the shipping was even more. :)

@RianoKan I'm not sure what you mean with supported from below. Mine is attached to the Y Carriages at both ends. At 6' with a double beam and a steel plate on top, I think you will be more then fine. Things you will need to consider are the weight of your router/spindle. But that shouldn't be an issue at 6'. My carriages flex because they are made out of MDF. Aluminum would have solved lots of issues.

Hi, flex can be corrected with the software. You can choose a very heavy X-axis or lighter and software corrected. The leveling is not important, the plane is. Nevertheless, nice job!

Thank you.

i know this is an old vid, but had a question i built a CNC plasma using Angle iron as well and works nice and am looking to build a router doing this as well. have you cut any aluminum on your CNC? and if so how did the angle iron hold up with that?

how much you spent to assemble this machine? I want one for make RC model planes...

Very Nice build and thank you for sharing. How is the machine holding up? Have you done any upgrades to it?

I would like to look at some plans as i was wanting to make a CNC myself can i look over the ones you used and if so where can i get them from

Just to add, My steppers are running at a 3:1 ration. So tripple the torque when it hits the rail.

IMPRESSIVE SPEECH! NO HUMMMS AAAAAAA"S ! GREAT WORK!

You mentioned plans. Where are the plans available?

@MrFrabcabert I get it. My beams will be 8020 1545, with 1/4 " steel plate, with aluminum carriages that ride on the steel. Thanks.

How much would you charge to build another machine of this same size? How much can this machine move in the vertical axis?

I'm designing one of my own too. I saw yours and was thinking why you put the moving structure over the longer side instead of the shorter one (would be more stable and flex less I guess) Is there any reason I'm missing? Thanks in advance

thanks!

First of all, congrats on such a nice machine. In the video you refer using 80x20(milimiters) aluminium profile but seems more 80x40. Is this correct?

when you made the bed so large how the computer know the work space is so large I mean the x and y axis.I believe the lead screw thread distance also makes the difference..Thanks

please can you help me im from Morocco i want to make like this machine

I guess this would depend on where you live, and availability of materials, etc. It cost me around $2500-3000 mark. that includes the controller the base and machine. Software is extra, unless you get the free software that is available.

@kurtnelle Sorry, I cant give you that information as I don't know. I never attempted the single beam, because others were saying they had issues with vibrations/etc. The build is HEAVY. the X beam it self took 2 guys and some grunting to lift it up.

Awesome! I am decent at working with electrical and software side of projects, however I know next to nothing about the hardware aspect. Do you have some recommendation on where to start learning?

Can't help you there. I only have experience with Mach 3 and Fanuc. I would recommend Mach 3 to anyone, its a very powerful software. I personally bought myself and old second hand xp computer and ran mach 3 off of it. A pc for the shop, which i wasn't to worried about because of dust, etc. You can alternatively use an external motion controller to run mach 3 through 64bit. Go to CNCzone and search for some info there.

Yes, router is better then dremel for this application. you can machine anything you want with what ever setup you have. You just have to be smart with your tool paths. Softmetals will probably be a mm or 2 deep passes at once, but in the end the product will be the same. I would be more concenred about having a sturdy frame/beam, that way you can upgrade/swap the router to what ever you want in the long run. I think a higher % of the quality of your machine depends on its structure/frame.

The Z axis doesn't need much force. On the Z you want speed for 3d carving. You don't put your body weight on a router just to get it to into the material... You'll have to do some research on testing Flex/twist and how to test it. I don't have a concrete way of doing it.

Крутой станочек!

wood base is cool

Can someone ask on my question: Why to use RACK and PINION instead of BALL SCREW? Because of low speed of the stepper motor or there is any other good reason? Thanks so much!

how much it cost? all component..

do you have plans.?Please send me.

thanks.

Thanks.

how did you calculate the inertia on this axis?

I am using Gecko Drives, which are being controlled by Mach3

Thanks, to create the G-code for the machine i use Vcarve pro from Vectric. Yes, it can use those dxf files. Its almost endless what you can do with a machine like this.

@johannas58 Yes, I could have done that, but because of my shop layout, this was the only way I would have room to slide my full sheet materials onto the bed. If I had more room, building the Y long and the X short would have been the best solution, absolutly.

@MrFrabcabert Oh, I thought you used 8020..

I dont know if that thing will hold up in a 500 mile an hour wind...ya might wanna fill the center section with concrete and rebar, just to be sure.

If its worth doing, its worth overdoing... that is a very impressive CNC mill.

my question... how the hell did you get though screws in there! XD

Can I ask why you chose to extend the X axis as the long side as opposed to the Y? - which would be the norm. I am not being a smartass, I can tell you are a talented guy and must have your reasons but it seems you have extended the weaker side instead of the stronger. Now even a tiny degree of racking will equate to a sizeable error.

Yes they are, I spent around $700 just for those.

@sdougm Machine like mine will go for around $4000-$5000 with software. You wouldn't need something that big though.

I admire anybody who shares their CNC information, but I find it so hard to find the torque of the motors they use, for me the important starting point.

You seem to be quite nervous in your own home just because of the camera! Relax man :DD

Hi, I get the rack from Moore Gear, ordered Online. The pinion for the stepper motors comes from CNCrouterparts(dot)com

Not sure what kind of advice you are looking for, but a plan would be what I would start out with :) Figure out what you want to cut, size/materials. Speeds/accuracy you want to achieve, and then start your build. If its just something simple, here are some free plans. cnczone(dot)com/forums/joes_cnc_model_2006/17279-joes_cnc_model_2006_r-1_a.html

that bolts are seriously painful for your E-Chain. try to switch to countersunk. you might wanted to use even smaller and sturdy E-Chain, we can help you save money for next project. please consult to your IGUS sales for #1400 or cheaper, i notice you put only 3 cables. the "play" you mentioned happen because you have unnecessary height for chain interior.

I don't build machines for resale. Unless you live close to me, I wouldn't consider it. This machine has a 2-3" vertical clearance. This can easily be increased.

Plans are available at joescnc(dot)com/kitsplans.php

Scie a panneau

Please send me a private message where I can respond to this, I don't want someone finding out where I live and then come and steal it ;)

Wow thats CNC Porn 😍👍👍

8020??? 8040!!!