Homemade Reflow Hot Plate for SMD Soldering - 3000W

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Electronoobs

Electronoobs

Π”Π΅Π½ΡŒ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ

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πŸ”₯I want to solder a lot of PCBs very fast. I have the SMD stencil so I can apply solder paste. But I need the reflow hot plate and that's what we make in this tutorial using an old iron and Arduino power control.
πŸ”€LINKS
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Tutorial: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_t...
Part List: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_t...
Schematic: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_t...
Code: electronoobs.com/eng_arduino_t...
Inspired by: β€’ Reflow oven or hot pla...
See also maker.moekoe project: β€’ Soldering SMDs with a ...
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00:00 Intro
02:00 Iron Teardown
03:35 Thermocouple Test
05:01 Part List
07:09 Assemble
09:31 Reflow Test
11:38 Temperature Graph
13:39 Thank you
Like share and subscribe to motivate me. Thank you
#reflow
#PCB
#homemade

ΠšΠžΠœΠ•ΠΠ’ΠΠ Π†: 375
@ELECTRONOOBS
@ELECTRONOOBS 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Arduino Course (Spanish): bit.ly/3ldW6kO Follow me on FACEBOOK for more: facebook.com/Electronoobs Help me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/ELECTRONOOBS
@tusharpotdar5762
@tusharpotdar5762 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
My suggestion would be to use two iron press, for even heat. You should cut the middle part of press which is not heating in compared to the edges of both iron press so they will be like "U" shape, Now insert both "U" shape iron press like one U shape is "n" & one is "u" so that heating could be more even
@efinandes
@efinandes 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
The on/off button rating is 3 Amps, how did you connect it? As you mentioned in your video the iron consumption is 13 Amps
@SACRED521954
@SACRED521954 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This hot plate idea is really interesting. I like how the main component is very common and cheap. Wish some other electronics youtubers would do more creative stuff like this.
@ecospider5
@ecospider5 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
A GFCI plug is needed first thing so you are protected during prototyping. Then like you said cover all the mains voltage connections before you consider the project finished. Also don’t let any mains voltage cables get within 1 cm of the low voltage cables. You don’t want failed wire insulation to energize your low voltage stuff at mains voltage.
@bashaaksema94
@bashaaksema94 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Agreed
@marcellipinski8929
@marcellipinski8929 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
A GFCI is mostly an American thing. In most of the European (230/240V) houses are RCD mounted central before the fuses. This ensures that even the wire is protected for human contact. So this will probably be optional. The one centimeter distance is a good thing but not only for direct contact, rather for the magnetic field and possibly induction of the low voltage circuit. All tough a proper insulation or housing around the ssr and heat element would be the first thing to do.
@PaganPegasus
@PaganPegasus Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is the most bootleg looking DIY hotplate I've seen, and honestly I love it. The raw look of it is such a fun aesthetic.
@C4mpblor
@C4mpblor 4 місяці Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
With only a minor risk of death!
@narayanbandodker5482
@narayanbandodker5482 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
3:20 My guess it is an over-temperature cut-off (if the bi-metal switch fails and the iron remains on too long). My electric kettle had one, which bends and turns off a physical switch when the water is boiling. In the iron, it may serve a similar purpose of a "fuse" for temperature
@agsolarpower5975
@agsolarpower5975 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
It is for water dispenser when press gets hot it release water by pushing pin upward. So that steam will form . In cold state it shut the valve .
@Hassan-cj9hr
@Hassan-cj9hr 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Looks more like an auto-steam switch. When on it would only allow water to flow into the hot plate if the temperature is high to cause it to steam
@argoscerberus
@argoscerberus 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
my guess exactly Narayan-san
@pasargadzagroos9681
@pasargadzagroos9681 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Tankiu wary matching .πŸ€”πŸŒΉπŸ™
@pasargadzagroos9681
@pasargadzagroos9681 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Tankiu wary matching his you for. πŸŒΉπŸ€”
@Frustratedfool
@Frustratedfool 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Never, in the history of my UKposts project viewings have I ordered all the parts so quickly! Thanks for sharing.
@alberts6096
@alberts6096 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
one month later, how is your project going?
@Frustratedfool
@Frustratedfool 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
@@alberts6096 I tried to use an Arduino clone but could not get the sketch to load, even with appropriate drivers. But as soon as I got a genuine one, it uploaded instantly. It started well, But I think my thermocouple blew on first test (possibly pressure buildup?) as it showed ambient 19 degrees C on switch on, but after I pressed start, it climbed then showed 0 degrees C. I believe the code needed a temp reading to control the relay on/off state and because it was at Zero, the iron temp rocketed. There was a loud crack and I cut the power. I think the code needs a failsafe that checks the thermocouple temp and if it is zero, it turns off the relay. I have not tried yet, plus I need to order a new thermocouple. I am also adding a tilt switch to the arduino pin out to the relay so it only turns on if the apparatus is level. I managed to cut the power quickly as I always use a dead switch when testing new mains voltage circuits. This is a press button connected to a relay, which only allows mains power to turn on if the button is held down. I used a old NowTv power supply to power the relay (12v) which was just removed and used in the same box as the relay and switch circuit. This is in series in a short extension lead, and makes me keep one hand out of anything potentially live. And if I jump due to a loud noise, my hand releases the button automatically cutting the power. An isolation transformer and Variac are also great tools to have.
@mobidick6064
@mobidick6064 10 місяців Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
An amp meter attached to the power source will show when the element comes on and off. Excellent work
@jakobfindlay4136
@jakobfindlay4136 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Your the first person I've seen to use a clothing iron to make a reflow hotplate and it's genius
@JasonLearmouth
@JasonLearmouth 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I believe the mystery component is used to prevent the steam function from working when the iron is too cold to boil the water. It will block the water from flowing until it gets to a certain temperature and then it pops open. It's normally a much louder pop than the on/off switch.
@jackwilliams2010
@jackwilliams2010 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I've been waiting for this video. Thank you for making this and explaining smd reflow. It really ties the topic together from end to end when trying to dyi instead of saving for months or years to buy a decent size machine.
@fakerio9901
@fakerio9901 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I've been planning for building this with an old chapathi maker.... Now you made it way too easy for meh... Thanks a lot bro❣️.. love from india
@Enjoymentboy
@Enjoymentboy Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is a great design and something I've thought about for a long time. The uneven heating is something I thought about quite a bit too and I suspect that adding a larger 10mm thick aluminium plate on top of the iron would help with this. It would add a lot of extra mass meaning it would take longer to heat but it should help spread the heat more evenly and help retain the heat as well. I did something slightly similar to this years ago where I used an electric griddle and a cast iron pan on top of that. I didn't have any of the fine temperature controls or ability to set a profile but it did work quite well. Although it took a long time to get the pan up to temp the cast iron gave very even heating and kept the temps very stable.
@skelethornbro
@skelethornbro 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
3:20 That is bimetal disc. It reacts to temperature and used as anti drip in steam iron.
@PATRIK67KALLBACK
@PATRIK67KALLBACK 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is fantastic! When I first saw your reflow hot plat I said: I want the same thing! So, great thank you for sharing.
@rbmwiv
@rbmwiv 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Thanks for sharing this neat idea on how to make a affordable reflow bench
@DevilbyMoonlight
@DevilbyMoonlight 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
good job- I as thinking about doing something similar with a small induction hob and a bit of steel plate - but ended up using an old pan on the top of the stove instead as that worked out well for me - look forward to see how this progresses
@jkuebler89
@jkuebler89 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Nice work. Very cool. I am impressed with how professional the soldering looks afterwards.
@tsxownz
@tsxownz 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
to improve heat distribution, attach aluminum plate to the iron plate! and then use that surface
@petter9403
@petter9403 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Felicitaciones muy buen proyecto, ojalΓ‘ pronto este en el canal de EspaΓ±a... Es una herramienta que es muy necesaria para lo que nos dedicamos a diseΓ±ar. Saludos desde Colombia.
@user-hk3ej4hk7m
@user-hk3ej4hk7m Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is a good opportunity to apply predictive control, since you know the shape of the curve you want, the control system can "plan ahead" and give you much tighter results than with pid control.
@rapterkingofthebrozone7490
@rapterkingofthebrozone7490 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
That component you were asking about looks like a bimetal temperature protection switch. One side is made of one type of metal, then the other side is made of a different type of metal that heats and cools at a different rate, so one side heats up faster than the other and pops the switch inside out, making the connection, and switching the kettle off.
@David.Sky.Walker
@David.Sky.Walker 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Looks like Daniele Tartaglia is trying to *one-up* your circuit board wall art. I love these videos.
@ELECTRONOOBS
@ELECTRONOOBS 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Just check his channel :) his looks nice as well
@user-zr7rc1te5q
@user-zr7rc1te5q 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
ΠŸΠ΅Ρ€Π²Ρ‹ΠΉ Ρ€Π°Π· Π²ΠΈΠΆΡƒ с русским субтитром ΠœΠΎΠ»ΠΎΠ΄Π΅Ρ† ΠΌΡƒΠΆΠΈΠΊ Π£Π²Π°ΠΆΡƒΡ…Π° !!!! И Π·Π°Π΄ΡƒΠΌΠΊΠ° класс !!!!
@pileofstuff
@pileofstuff 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I've always wondered if this would be a viable way of doing it. Thanks for doing the experiment!
@pankajupadhyay1693
@pankajupadhyay1693 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Wow 😍. Great idea with excellent explanation. Keep doing this type of work and share it through your videos. Thanks a lot ❀.
@vertujoe2886
@vertujoe2886 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
The cover image says everything, gj dude.
@EgonSorensen
@EgonSorensen 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I have a hotplate for cooking I took apart completely, mounted the metal temperature sensor included with a PID controller - in the center against the ceramics, using metal brackets held firmly by the normal mounting mechanism. Then I use the PID controller with the SSR with a socket fitting the hotplate, set temperature, turn on hotplate - and lit it settle/tune. Nice and compact, no exposed wiring around hotplate - If you do this, Do *NOT* forget proper grounding/protection.
@petermccool9396
@petermccool9396 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I have a similar project but using a 1kW ring from a table top stove secured to a similar size frying pan. Not for solder reflow, for burning wood for my smoker. Not yet built, but getting close.
@MarcoPolo-zv1ft
@MarcoPolo-zv1ft 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Very cheap and good coding for matching the curve I wish to use in the next version sandwich plate because all the surface is covered and you may not get cold spots . cheer
@mobidick6064
@mobidick6064 10 місяців Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
We learn a lot. Excellent teacher
@philso7872
@philso7872 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is a cool project. You should add a mode where it ramps up the temperature then holds it at or just under the temperature where the solder melts. This would be very useful for removing high pin count devices.
@pauldale260
@pauldale260 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Good idea. I've placed PCBs on a clothes iron to soak the whole PCB, to allow removal of shielding cans that are soldered down very well.
@marcellipinski8929
@marcellipinski8929 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I love this idea and will make something similar in the future, because big heat plates are just to expensive. But maybe I'm not going with an iron. The first thing that came to mind as you mentioned the heat distribution problem was a heatbed of 3d printers. Some of them also work with 230v and could be used for this. I think so because one time I had a broken sensor and the bed just got hot as hell. Anyway, looking forward to building this and getting my first smd boards soldered
@marcellipinski8929
@marcellipinski8929 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
How high do you want it to go? You can get heatbeds up to 250Β°C. Do you have a better idea?
@korishan
@korishan 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Adding a piece of metal on top as a plate would help even out the heat. The only thing is, you might need to test with or without ribs (on the bottom side), with those ribs running parallel to the length of the iron, or perpendicular. This could change the way heat propagates through the metal. One direction or the other would allow for a more uniform heating. But then again, just a flat plate might be sufficient. Then put a thermocouple poking through the iron plate to make contact with the top plate so you can get a more accurate temperature going into the pcbs.
@millomaker
@millomaker 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Pretty nice, I definitely need to try this for my PCBs
@scottycashman
@scottycashman 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Looks good. Nice alternative to a reflow oven if needing to scrape every penny. One thing though, those mains wires are undersized and should be double insulated. I'd use at least 1.5mm^2 if not 2.5mm^2 for the mains connections and keep all connections inside plastic enclosures. Oh and for anyone wanting to build this for home, all mains connections should be properly insulated so you can't physically touch it without full intent to do so. Regardless if you have a GFCI or RCD or not.
@EXMattix
@EXMattix 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
You could use mosfets for the power control just use 2 in series but the second one needs a 180 degree turning
@augustolacerda3560
@augustolacerda3560 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
creating a box to isolate the heating element from the ambient would make any difference in the heat distribution and/or power consumption? I think it's worth a test. like a regular house oven or something, containing the heat might be good both for reaching the desired temperature faster and might also help with the distribution. Great project!
@czabinator
@czabinator 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Les than 1 min in video, and I wish to thank you for this idea !
@Cdaprod
@Cdaprod Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I’m sure you figured out but I mailed it if you use what is the base its gonna warp as your plate heats up one side and dries it faster than the bottom. Wood has about 8-13% water here in GA (depending on where you live). POC: I’ve had a silicon mat on wood and seen it bubble up underneath because it’s basically steaming up under the mat.
@sq6beh
@sq6beh Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Dobry, przydatny film. OkrΔ…gΕ‚y bimetal zabezpiecza przed wyciekiem wody z ΕΌelazka jeΕ›li temperatura jest za maΕ‚a do produkcji pary.
@magnetservicecenter
@magnetservicecenter 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Very good but difficult for me to get understand but I love to watch πŸ™
@laadamla
@laadamla 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
It's very interesting project, I'm waiting for next steps 😎 Thank You for knowledge You share!
@MiguelSilvaFX
@MiguelSilvaFX Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Great work . I too took the design from GreatScott video ,with a circuit schematic from AfteEarth, and designed one myself Solder Reflow Plate PCB with a larger hot bed area of 120x70mm and a nextion 3.2” lcd touch for controls and display a heating curve on a chart. Anyone can download the pcb and schematics files. Enjoy!
@vickmeetaroo
@vickmeetaroo 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
So simple and brilliant! Thank you!
@darthjeder
@darthjeder 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Graphite foil has excellent properties as a heat spreader... I think that can really improve the heat distribution.
@TheRazz93
@TheRazz93 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
You could add a fan to help wick away the heat for the final leg of the process. The mass of the ceramic iron means it will always take some time to cool down properly. This could be solved with a fan directed at the top of the PCB that switches on at a set point in the cycle. You'd obviously want the right sized fan that doesn't blow your components clean off the PCB though!
@grigoreman7198
@grigoreman7198 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Nice project. Congratulations!
@GeertDroid
@GeertDroid 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Yes, please add PID controller in your code that would be a great idea. Very nice project !!!!
@jamjamamam4139
@jamjamamam4139 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I would make it from the one plate electric cooker. It is secure with the case, just add more sophisticated electronic temperature control
@jacquesblom2312
@jacquesblom2312 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Same thing I was thinking
@Paul_Bearden
@Paul_Bearden 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Nice, I just found a clothes iron, what a great project.
@ernandofranco8448
@ernandofranco8448 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Muito obrigado !!! Como sempre seus projetos sΓ£o incrΓ­veis!!! Por favor faca mais projetos de equipamentos e ferramentas utils para o laboratΓ³rio e para a oficina!!!
@dhekshith4113
@dhekshith4113 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Wow this is awesome...waiting for the future updates...
@rayztech7384
@rayztech7384 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Thank you for making this!!! You read my mind+
@CallousCoder
@CallousCoder 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
That’s a clever idea! No need for a toaster oven.
@drlerkan
@drlerkan 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
hello nice project.. The heating plate in hair straighteners can be used as a heater. It also has a thermometer inside.
@princebanini
@princebanini 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This project is really cool.
@arthurmorgan8966
@arthurmorgan8966 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Come to think of it, if you upgrade your 3D printer board, you could use the old board for something like this, it comes with PID and all. Might need solid state relay if you want to use AC for heating though, like how they do the beds of large format printers.
@andresceballos1451
@andresceballos1451 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
hello excellent tutorial Thank you making a contribution to the project a curve programmer can be implemented to achieve the desired curve for each type of solder paste, with the following variables * set temperature * changeover time from one set to another * duration time lasts each set Greetings from Colombia
@DescubreAntigua
@DescubreAntigua Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Clever!, I was wondering how to build one last week to reflow something. It's worth saying the iron will reach X temperature and then the energy will cut off, and this will repeat in cycles. Right now I'm exploring using a lamp (others had success with this) and the benefit is constant temperature, while the range is controlled via distance. Nice project.
@hahchhiau6939
@hahchhiau6939 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
3:25.That metal round copper plate was for overheat auto clicker controller..looks simple but effective
@albarracho
@albarracho 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Maybe a 2mm sheet of aluminum put over de iron, with a 1mm gap can make a better distribution of hit. Good job!! Great video!!
@David121282
@David121282 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Thank you so mutch for your greatufull Videoes.
@akasickform
@akasickform 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Definitely want some kind of insulation and shielding for this
@sortofsmarter
@sortofsmarter Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
hello Andrei, great hot plate design. I built one with a slightly smaller iron but it does ok, takes a little bit longer to heat up but the temp is a bit more even all the way across. I was wondering of you ever got around to making the rotary encoder functionable? I am a great builder and fabricator but I am a terrible coder...lol I would like to have it so I can set one temp and have it stay there for heating phones to open them up and for de-soldering scrap pcb's.
@drdronist
@drdronist 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
That temperature control material is Brass and copper (Bi-metallic strip). When the temperature increases that strip will bend and deform. So the connection to the Iron box will cut. After the heat reduces then it regains its original shape and size same as elastic property. this is a mechanically control system. Use a 3-5mm copper plate on the iron box. It will help you for temperature distribution evenly. copper thermal conductivity 410-420 w/mK
@lasersbee
@lasersbee 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
What I would need to know is the temperature curve at the component side of the PCB... not the bottom of the heating shoe where heat accumulates.
@siddharthmali5841
@siddharthmali5841 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Excellent project. Appreciated it a lot.
@lexander9686
@lexander9686 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Great work brother πŸ‘
@Pulverrostmannen
@Pulverrostmannen 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I think it could help evening the heat to add a kind of pretty thick aluminium sheet or the likes on top of the iron which would distribute the heat more even and also give a more controlled temperature curve. pretty neat project btw
@oleurgast730
@oleurgast730 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I think a copper sheet would be better than aluminium due to better heat conductivity.
@Ferreira019760
@Ferreira019760 10 місяців Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Multi zone control is interesting and sometimes essential, however you won't get much benefit from it when having only one heating element. Once you have more, then it's a good solution to have to keep the plate homogenous. For the best results you would need one control circuit per zone. In your case however, that would be OTT, that is usually used in heated-plates hydraulic presses. There is something that you can do with the second TC, and that is a safety control. In case of failure of the main TC, your Arduino can cut off the heat if you get a runaway effect. People may argue that when a TC fails, it goes to an open circuit condition, which is true, and that in itself is a safety feature. What it cannot do is prevent the reading from going to zero if you have an insulation fault, making the heat control go to full power. As the reading continues being below the set point, it won't stop heating. If your safety TC is set to 5 or 10ΒΊC above the set point, and the temperature goes above the safety, something went wrong, and the Arduino can produce an alarm and cut off the power. What I do, as passed on to me by my teachers, is to be sceptic and look for every way that it can possibly go wrong. I can then look for solutions and make things more safe and robust. It's good to know that you share the same mindset, and by posting your videos, other people may get inspired in doing the same. Using an SSR is the best solution I know of for heating control. They are silent, more robust that electromechanical switches, and the speed of operation is way faster. When using a PID control, the response will be far smoother. Two thumbs up. The solder graphs were a very nice touch. It's important to look into the existing documentation, or generate your own if it's about something new. Being aware of that is invaluable for any technician, professional or amateur. What I would like to see is a cover of the high voltage part while you are testing your prototype, even if it's just electrical tape covering the exposed parts. You did mention making a cover, however any moment that you have dangerous levels of voltage exposed, all sorts of accidents could happen. I'm sure you are careful and experienced enough to take your precautions, it's the lesser experienced that I'm mostly concerned about. I've always found the best time to acquire good practices to be at the beginning, before any bad habits sink in. In fact, why not some videos approaching safety precautions? There are 2 moments in time that are the most dangerous in a technician's life. When starting off knowing nothing, and when he fools himself into thinking he already knows enough to bypass rules and directives. Spoiler alert, no one ever knows enough for the second one. People who reached old age unscathed were either very lucky, or paid attention to the safety aspects and listened to that inner voice that makes us second guess ourselves. Even very experienced people make mistakes and end up risking their lives, as it happened to a colleague of mine. He survived electrocution with very minimal temporary consequences. At the time he was repairing an industrial oven. Turned off the main switch and was sure about that. What he didn't know was that there was a separate power line in parallel that kept the machine powered when turned off. That should never happen, so he went in without checking the voltage. If it wasn't for a colleague close to him, his life would have ended that very same day. I don't mean to scald or scare off anyone, but the risks are real and they should always be taken seriously. Please, don't make it easy for accidents to happen. It's way more fun to end a day's work and everyone meeting up at the local pub for a pint and a couple of laughs. Overall, good job with the video. Keep it up.
@DuroLabs85
@DuroLabs85 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Excellent project sir! :)
@kazzTrismus
@kazzTrismus 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
production environments use convection fans and the whole process is enclosed. also...preheat the plate. maybe a high temp epoxy and a couple of steel bolts/threaded rod to help conduct across the surface and add a more thermally conductive mass to help even things out for continuous running?
@EkosFoxLeviathan
@EkosFoxLeviathan 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
this video gives me GreatScott! Vibes, I like it :)
@Leif_YT
@Leif_YT 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I'm using a similar build inspired by maker moekoe - It works very well so far. Maybe an additional copper plate or so on top would help a bit with a more even heat dissipation.
@alevilikvealeviler
@alevilikvealeviler 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
maker moekoe is crazy good :D
@Dazza_Doo
@Dazza_Doo Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is what I'm looking for!
@mans4104
@mans4104 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Putting a thick aluminum plate or cutting board on top of the iron plate may help to level and spread the heat. Good project. πŸ‘ay
@JohnJaggerJack
@JohnJaggerJack 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Insulate the back part of the heating plate with rock wool or some other equivalent insulator. This will help you a lot with heat distribution and heating curve.
@yohannlebrech8878
@yohannlebrech8878 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Super travail . GΓ©nial
@chiparooo
@chiparooo 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Nice project. Thanks for sharing!
@partouelectric2353
@partouelectric2353 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Hello, all Thanks for the great video. What is the melting point of your solder paste
@wizrom3046
@wizrom3046 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Modern irons like that have very limited amount of metal, and low thermal mass. Its better to use an old iron with thick metal, you get more even heating. You can also try a cover over the pcb, to keep heat in and make the temperature more even. A glass Pyrex bowl can work very well.
@PyroRob69
@PyroRob69 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I was thinking if he were to pour a heat resistant epoxy into the center of the iron's inner cavity, it would help even out the temps. By increasing the thermal mass though, it would also increase the heat up time, and cool off time, but it would be a more even heat.
@wizrom3046
@wizrom3046 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
@@PyroRob69 ... or just pack it with fine sand. πŸ™‚
@PyroRob69
@PyroRob69 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
@@wizrom3046 I thought about that too but he has it upside down.
@wizrom3046
@wizrom3046 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
@@PyroRob69 good point. Maybe sand mixed with a heatproof cement, or plaster of Paris?
@PyroRob69
@PyroRob69 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
@@wizrom3046 Sand with a high temp epoxy might be good. Again, the density would probably affect the ability to heat and cool quickly.
@volkerracho5954
@volkerracho5954 4 місяці Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Maybe you could improve the heat dissipation by adding a big copper plate on top of the iron. You could also measure the temperature near the top of the (copper) plate for more accurate temp readings
@Gabirell
@Gabirell 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
ΒΏY no ayudarΓ­a poner cobre bajo la superficie de la plancha para que la temperatura se distribuya mejor? Muy buen video, gracias.
@MarcelDiane
@MarcelDiane 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I am anxious to see the Nextion version.
@lusher00
@lusher00 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I have some boards I rescued from the recycling bin at work with lots of juicy surface mount semiconductors but also massive through hole inductors, capacitors and DC-DC power supplies. Everything has at least 4 leads and isn’t going to move without reflowing at least 2 leads. This is like 14-16 gauge leads connected to 200mil traces. Any ideas how I might get the back side hot enough to remove the through hole stuff? I was thinking about buying a used toaster oven and disconnect the top heating element or use it in a mode which disables it.
@pissmilker2313
@pissmilker2313 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
The bimetal disc closes the steam channel to prevent liquid water going through when the iron is too cold to vaporise the water
@miriamramstudio3982
@miriamramstudio3982 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is really a very cool project. I think I will give it a try ;) BTW Could it be an idea to add thermal insulation under the plate like on 3D printers beds, for a more even temperature and perhaps lower power usage ? Great video. Thanks.
@felderup
@felderup 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
a local store is selling cheap, repurposed, LARGE toaster ovens as powder coating ovens, with a different controller it could make a beastly soldering oven.
@dloug
@dloug 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Awesome project! Was wondering, could a 3d printers heated bed be used instead of the iron?
@overbuiltautomotive1299
@overbuiltautomotive1299 Π Ρ–ΠΊ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
it works better that i would have done good job
@userusms
@userusms 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Great tutorial. Thank you.
@DIYwithBatteries
@DIYwithBatteries 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Nice video mate πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘
@stanleydsouza6723
@stanleydsouza6723 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Awesome πŸ‘Œ. Thanks I'm loving it ❀
@theMasion
@theMasion 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Just a though… what about using a stand alone induction hob with just the base of a non stick pan as the heater…? The buffalo hobs have very fine control
@ElectroPoint4u
@ElectroPoint4u 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
I also made a reflow Iron like this with arduino and TFT touch shield, it's much easier to work on touch screens.
@IgmuHammerer
@IgmuHammerer 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Could a 1mm thick FR4 board between the iron and board to flow with full copper on the top side of the FR4 to better distribute the heat?
@piiumlkj6497
@piiumlkj6497 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
a full pid control would make this project fully professional , also you gotta find a method to evenly spread the heat of the plate , good luck !
@KillTheFace55
@KillTheFace55 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
This is so cool! Great idea!
@georgemathieson6097
@georgemathieson6097 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
What an awesome idea!!
@dheerajg.6971
@dheerajg.6971 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
It's a bimetallic strip based temperature control.
@electronic7979
@electronic7979 2 Ρ€ΠΎΠΊΠΈ Ρ‚ΠΎΠΌΡƒ
Excellent project
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