Good idea, but with my company. The builder/architect always have the duct calculated out, or I just sub out a sheetmetal guy. One thing I wish I would have mastered, if u young and just starting out, take full advantage of any sheet metal classes/training. My trade school didn't do dick with sheetmetal.

@@AllTattedUp13 yea same here, my trade school didn’t have a chapter or a course where we could focus on duct work for a couple weeks and the company im working for now does service and repairs only really. Im starting to do more side work like repair, unit change outs and i feel comfortable with that. But if they were interested in having new duct work installed or even something as simple as having the old duct work moved around and reorganize i wouldn’t know where to start. Im just trying to become well rounded in every aspect of the hvac trade.

@@iwddwi_hvacr7425 100% get what ur saying. I can do sheetmetal but what takes a tin knocker 20min takes me 2hrs lol. That's why I just sub out a metal guy. If ur doing side work/installs. Go to ur parts house and ask if they know a metal guy, or leave a sign up on parts bulletin board. That's how I found my metal guy. But I'm like u, I'd like to learn it more. It's an art form. Just like anything else, takes years to master.

@@AllTattedUp13 yea im going to have to do that. I think im always going to view myself as a rookie, there just to much to learn and always room for improvement lol

Duct sizing can be done by rule of thumb and a ductulator. To do it properly you need a manual D & j which is calculated by a softwares

You measure your measurements to center of the tip

@@peterdezhnyuk1420 there's lines on the Hilmor bender for inside and outside measurments.

Seriously came looking for this and he mentioned his actual process for those precise bends

Maybe wants to leave that trick to himself

yep wished he had shown the take off

I agree, I watched for bending tricks not product placement.

@@SalvadorHVAC lol shit

yea thats what i was hoping for

StayBrite #8 is the best for installing new equipment. I used a propane torch.

Hey Craig what is the difference between oxy acetylene and air acetylene? Is it just personal preference? And what's a recommended tip size for air?

Air acetylene is good, harder to get a neater braise joint, but quick and easy. Lighter and easier to move around on the job. They are noisy AF, need ear muffs for sure. I've used it on everything from supermarket refrigeration, air, and everything else to a small unit. It's not good IMO on TXVs etc. Just like mapp gas, it draws air in from near the tip to keep the flame hot and functioning. Most TXVs are deliberately installed in the hardest spot to get to, so it will draw in its spent oxygen that the flame has burnt and make it dull. You know what I mean. I used to do alot of install work and used it almost daily. I still use it in service, but not as often, and probably wouldn't buy one if that's all I did.

Is the air acetylene tank the same as a “B tank”?

You are a monster man exelent video

Can you use turbo torch for pro hvac jobs instead of oxy acetylene?

@@hgn1832 you can. I do all the time

Yes so you know that the copper is ready for the solder so it can be sucked up in there and you get better coverage, then repeat on the bottom. I myself always have problems with brazing under the copper lol.

I go 7psi & 10psi on my pressures. 7psi on the Acetylene, 10psi on the Oxygen. 👍

Just keep ur torch on the copper/fittings till they start to glow, or just tap ur braze rod up to joint every few sec and once it starts to flow, you know u got it hot enough and that's when u can start backing off with torch and just hit it again when it's not flowing like liquid. You'll get the hang of it, becomes 2nd nature after awhile.

I learned that once it’s hot enough to start flowing you move the torch farther inward towards the joint to suck in the solder.

PRACTICE. The nice thing about brazing and soldering is you can melt it off, clean up and reattack. Also do some structural brazing because braze joints are quite shock-resistant and being able to make things with the same torch you use for tubing can be quite handy. You can gas weld and braze sheet metal but avoid doing galvanized because the fumes are legit dangerous. Torches are wonderful things ANY mechanic or tech should have. Get some torch cutting practice on scrap too because it comes in handy. For example my bro and I buy used steel for our shop buildings, work benches etc and I bring a small cutting torch along to trim our scores to fit on the car trailer. A small cutting attachment can cut surprising thicknesses of steel effortlessly. All US-made torches have internal soft parts compatible with LP (I rebuilt my own torches and regs per factory literature) so be aware you can use LP cutting tips and run the torch off a BBQ jug by using CGA-510 adapters from your welding supply. You can run little torches off larger cylinders at home. I buy used cylinders off Fecesbook Marketplace because they're filled by exchange so buying new is pointlessly expensive.

Facts!!! I wish I would have listened to all the ol timer techs when I got in this trade. 20+ yrs later and my knees are starting to feel it. Shoulda woulda coulda...big dummy lol!!!

It should be... Can't go wrong with oxy/ac

Try lining up the center of the copper you wanna connect to with the line on the tool

If its bending to the right use the right mark. Bending to the left use the left mark

@@ghettocereal just so I understand, let’s say that the line set needs to go up 20” and in 10”, do I cut the pipe 30”, Mark the pipe at 20” and then line the marks up?

Matt Florence honestly I have a hard time visualizing your question lol. The only way I can describe it is if you’re running along your tubing, when you make a bend you use the mark on the same side that you are bending. So if your line is going to the right and you make a bend, you use the right tick mark in the bender because you’re heading right. If you’re going left, you use the left tick mark. And the same concept basically applies for goin upwards or downwards if that makes sense. Just get some practice pieces and try it out

Its really easy once you get the hang of it

Can you put the gel in a wet paper towel?

@@etlawson6939 tried, the paper towel falls apart, also tried a rag. Just been using trusty ol wet rags. But there are them times when u gotta braze in close quarters. So ima grab me some of that putty block.👍👌👌

@@AllTattedUp13 , I use wet rags most of the time. Nothing else but I may try the putty.

@@etlawson6939 yea I mainly want it when brazing the line to evap coil. Cabinet right there, the rubber oring/grommets. I've had my guys braze them and the valve port they put on the coils when they pressurize them, had them shraders leak. Pain in the ass to have to take ur work apart cause that stem is leaking behind case coil lol. And a rag don't work well there cause it prevents copper from getting hot enough. That's where I been using the gel, shits messy.

possible bur not ideal less brasing on an install the better

I agree. Bending a 90 is easy. Bending a 90 in the exact spot you need it requires experience. I'd like to learn from his experience as to how and where to measure for a perfect fit

@@14idontcare14 With those benders you put your mark right in the center of the mandrel. I have the same type but a Yellow Jacket brand.

Brazing with B tanks is for those who don't want to take the time to learn how to properly dial in their gases or aren't confident enough to use oxy/ac for brazing.

I brazed steel rule cutting dies (big cookie cutters under high mechanical pressure for fabric) and you're dead right about OA being preferable. I collect and rebuild torches and regs so I'm wallowing in full sets of "everything". I use turbo-style torches for soldering and heating small stuff but not near as often as my OA rigs.

Nitrogen purge until you can hold the effected areas with your hand.

It’s awesome.. saves a lots of cutting and welding and a lots of time .. thank you again.