Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?

konrad hades thx

wen

john mark collins thx bro

john mark collins send us a pic of the door you build on our Facebook page

Thanks

How did your project go

thanks!

No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!

No problem!

thanks for the comment

Great video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you thought about - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate at very last got astronomical success with it.?

@@carmenwest2413 Thanks, only just seen your comment.

Sounds great!

Hey Pete, I asked the same Question and he said, he didn’t use Glue bc he was concerned about Movement in the Wood. I don’t know, My Dad would kick my ass if I didn’t use Wood Glue building this. Great Work Though !

That has been addressed above - glue will interfere with wood movement.... as in panel doors, and why panels are not glued in. Doesn't anyone read comments before making needless, repetitive comments?

Thanks - more of a Patriots fan!! Good luck on the project

+Martin Burke - ah - please disregard - I see that you left them on for the joins.

I trimmed min but only the ones on the outer edges.

hows the door? I wanna make two bigger versions of these for a carport to turn it into a garage?

WeatherNut27 you certainly can, takes some time but worth it, these were interior doors

animal79thecat It's best to secure the battens to the door. I like NOT having fasteners show on the finished side. Long screws? - sure but you may damage or mar the wood with the grinder.

Gracias senor

Great door!!!, You should have reply to Angelo with "Obrigado" which is Thank you in Portuguese

Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me understand everything & in the end it was what I wanted

Interesting. I repurpose old barn nails. Some I find are bent but I often straighten them or snip them short and hammer them into a smaller nail. But they're mostly used for art framing, not necessarily structural.

I've looked up the etymology before, but yours is the best and most succinct explanation ever! Thx!

Fun fact : The term "rod iron" is derived from the term "wrought iron" and is actually not even a thing.

Jay Stachowiak 🙄.... well that may be the case ( it’s not) but it’s actually being used in that instance more as a descriptive noun. Surely you know, that blacksmiths would take a square rod of iron and fashion the nails out of the square iron rod. So I suppose that “iron rod nails” would be a more appropriate term for what I was saying. Now with that being said, “wrought iron” is most definitely a thing. “Wrought” is past and past participle tense word for “work”. So if we’re talking about wrought iron, then we would be talking about a metal that was beaten into shape with a hammer, or metal that was worked into shape. Checkout Merriam-Webster’s definition entry of “wrought”. Took me like 2 seconds to find that “wrought Iron” is for sure a thing, granted it is not any particular “kind” of iron, but a term for any kind of iron that was worked into its shape by hand hammering the metal.

Oh that's priceless! Haha I get it now! You're "Mr. Malarkey " because you are completely full of CRAP!! HAHAHAHA I feel like I'm the victim of some advance level trolling, and that's awesome!

maria maguire 3/4” each, probably 3 months. Sticker them, keep dry and check with moisture meter

You are welcome

peter lantagne not hard at all maybe Teutonic horizontal board at the slit, have them mate with a ship lap and you'll need an extra hinge

Did it work for you?

+Bob Wood No glue at all. The fasteners, diagonal bracing and ship lap do the work for you.

If it’s on hinges - yea

Thanks for that - appreciated. We build what was on the architecture plans, but I appreciate the correction

Best Access Doors maybe, were always looking for good content ideas

Best Access Doors www.aconcordcarpenter.com/how-to-build-a-board-and-batten-door.html

Yeah i have learnt a lot from this video as well and i will check Woodworkinster page for sure!

Yes

Hmmm never done an insulated door but what about sandwiching 1" of rigid insulation and foaming any gaps?

Kind of like what I was thinking. There was an article in Fine Homebuilding a year or two (??) back where that was done. Going to need to review the article. Fortunately the company noted in the article is only about 25 minutes away from me. Would be an interesting build...will need to include a dog door as well for our two Brittany Spaniels.

Stanley Pearse very cool build.... write it up for us?

John Gallon Great point, thank you for the feedback

popwar 122 not sure what that means

Jason H no, leave it rough

Got em - check out the videos on this channel, and reviews on ToolBoxBuzz.com

Gary Somebody depends on the door construction

@@ConcordCarpenter it has a thick outside frame with thinner, slightly shorter boards tightly packed inside the frame. Same design as the one in the video only with a seperate outside frame instead of a double boarded frame.

@@garymullan646 you can certainly try

Right on - go for it

the diagonals should both come down to the hinge side of the door, more strength and less sagging with time

They should go from the hinge side up! No other way

garry weinberg the ship lap should provide enough Coverage if wood shrinks in winter

Yes plugs will work - see link www.aconcordcarpenter.com/how-to-install-wood-plugs.html

A Concord Carpenter Thanks for the quick reply. I almost always use plugs on my furniture, but it's usually a thicker piece of material. I'm going to give it a whirl. Thanks again.

William Jennings that works or plug the holes like this: www.aconcordcarpenter.com/how-to-install-wood-plugs.html

what i would have done is cut a small sliver of wood not completely off with a chisel and drove the screw in and then clamped that sliver down and it looks like nothing is there.

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+Jim Hauschultz yes but better to use a wider central board

+A Concord Carpenter I didn't expect a reply today, maybe not until October. Thanks. Good common sense seems like a doh slap.

+Jim Hauschultz enjoy your build!

Jim Hauschultz yes you can, I've done it by leaving the door longer and then routing two opposing rabbits after cutting the Dutch door. This allows the door (when closed) to stay together better. You'll still need a slide bolt to lock it in.

of course, just make sure that the type of wood is treated , or marine board. marine board is expensive [ marine board = plywood ]

John Gallon John you were 100% correct regarding structural support. this was a design decision from the client - they were aware of the diagonal support function but decided they wanted this look

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Depends on the boards, and how you’d like the layout to look. Could be an inch or 10 inches

@@ConcordCarpenter ok yes, but lets say a 36 inch opening to properly cover the opening a 38 inch would do it nicely