Ditto

Problem is the end ended up on top of the bar

قشهقعقعهخقحققعهقختتنززمظڟشه شي يخيﺧيقدر

Nothing new. No need to mark therapy just use your eyes.

I'm going to use this method next time I have to wrap a set of bars at work

You can pretty much figure out a way to do the hood section to get any combo you like, tops should pretty much always be front to back but if you want to wrap the drops inward or outward is up to you on whether you think you roll out or in more

They to it that way because otherwise the colores stars are hidden. You are correct, they are not. The 8 figure is not a pro-tip, it’s ugly and incorrect.

@@AlvaroQF All you have to do to get the graphics on the outside is unroll the tape and start from the other end. That is actually mentioned in a video Supacaz did.

Yep.

@@daurieschwartz4189 Your wraps shouldn't be driven by graphics. The graphics should have been designed so it's multi- directional.

Well, you got it wrong then. The wrap on the tops is backwards and the little finishing point should end up @ the bottom of tge bar not the top or front.

Just wait for the first time it gets wet…it has bad grip when wet and it soaks and takes days to dry. I will replace mine really soon.

Yes . Just mirror it

Both wrong lol...

@@mccalljeff nah, you wrap inside from the bottom and out side on the top, this prevents unwrapping whilst gripping , there’s is only one “propa” way …. Wrapping from the top first is wrong too as this method will have the drops unwrap due to the direction of overlap

You are ✅

Exactly. Apparently this clown is clueless

I actually push on my bars more.

I prefer the other direction on top but I suppose some will roll to the front. Don't have to disrespect the dude because that method is different than yours

the pros use electrical tape. You spend a lot of time with your hands tgat far in-board?

@@rickdoehler502 , here is a trick I use with electrical tape which I find goes to mush in the heat of the sun. Wrap the electrical tape very tightly; add enough extra wrap to finish on the bottom side of the handlebar, add an additional 5cm or 2 inches, cut; here is the HINT - glue the inside of the electrical tape for 2cm/ 1 inch with "Super Glue"; stretch tape around bottom, squeeze out excess glue (use paper towel or facial tissue between hands & glue); cut electricl tape to end on underside, press with paper for short period of time. This trick can make tape last for years.

I would agree… in the drops, my wrists are a bit inward… maybe I need 38 instead of 40cm bars…?

Derek Newton If you are referring to the Supacaz Galaxy tape as seen in the video, then you’ll need to unravel the entire roll and start from the “opposite side” of the roll when wrapping the other side of your handlebars. Maintain the same overlap and spacing and you will get both sides looking fly 👍

huh?....why did u need to post this twice?

They sell on their website! I found em'

YES !! the guy is an idiot.

@@jen3800 But he's so cute, the marketing guys had to have him, the wraps is secondary.

and wrong. the tops need to be reverse wrapped and the cut on the tape should ALWAYS end at the bottom, not the top. physics, mate.

no. the tops need to be reverse wrapped. it is not an opinion. it is physics.

no it wont unwind, stop spreading this stupid myth. You can wrap your bars any way you like, it will be fine.

he did it wrong, your correct.

Yeah you're right. Most people twist away on the drops so the inner to outer wrapping on that section was fine but should've reversed to retain an inner to outer rotation on the hoods and front to back on the tops to account for the direction of grip load and stress.

You haven’t seen Park Tool’s video then: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/bX2rfZ-tbqaW2Hk.html

Right, also check out a couple GIN has l, one with a pro mechanic. SILCA has a good one as well.

no it is not. you MUST end thw bar tape under the bar, not on top. also the tops need a reverse wrap. if not you will unravel the tape eventually. Physics.

I'm having trouble also. Loosened the screw, tapped the screw to disengage the plug but having hard time pulling it from the bar. Afraid I'll strip the threads from pulling so hard on the screw cap. ( i'm removing a LBS install)