Steel frame with rear suspension will do wonders. Box frame preferred.

@@charlestannehill7537 where would the batteries go though

@@Fred_the_1996 make slim battery packs with attachments to the frame.

Oh ya, he is truly a talented young man.

St this power level why not just use motorcycle frame, just for safety.

people are confused when I fly by them at 20mph on side streets here

@@johnames6430 People are confused when I fly by them in the 0-20, and then they end up breaking the speed limit and going 40 mph to show off their lack of brain cells from huffing fumes all day.

Or having to use the brakes lol dude brakes on that gotta be completely pointless

ukposts.info4lZZtTmGISo

the stupid thing is is that they should all be intrigued.

I don't have the money or living space for a 3D printer, 3D scanner, a lathe, drill press, and a lot of great machining tools I've seen creators like Warped Perception have. So I have to make do, looking for premade brackets for whatever I have planned, and fabricating things out of wood, outdoor electrical boxes, plastic bins, and super glue with baking soda.

The bicycle engine mounts for things like a predator 212, are great for holding big & custom batteries.

Depending on what you got time for yeah. One of the first things I thought of was what if I slapped all the extra batteries my bike come with together what would it do

@@observingrogue7652 wood/bone parts is a sick idea for bike-packing with extended periods of no resupply, or just people on the fringes of supply chains.

I wonder where they bought the 3D printer... 🤔

When I got my first 750W setup...I was scared to go full out lol. Mostly because the battery made the bike top heavy as I had to fit it on the top tube instead of in the traingle. But I got up to 25mph almost instantly and backed off lol. Now it has two 750W hub motors...well..."250W" run at 750W. I still dont know the top speed lol. I was run over by a car a few years ago and my balance has never quite been the same. I only added the other motor for 2wd for help getting up trail hills with my bike camper which is about 130lbs. I am 130lbs, and the bike is probably 45 to 50lbs. So about 310lb to get up hills. I see people on mobility scooters that weigh that much going up hills, so I am hoping it is doable but havent tried it yet. I will keep adding power until it can. I am hoping to avoid mid drive as I had one and didnt like it, mostly cause of noise but also I didnt like having to match cadence...i wanna ride like a scooter sometimes.

It's similar to building a computer: Overtuning your specs makes it run way more efficiently and also last a long longer too. Any PC builder worth their salt will overpower and underclock their components so that they run smoothly for their lifetime.

​@@omegahaxors3306Less heat is less heat in the summer

My heart was racing watching him ride this Frankenstein of an ebike 😂

@@raijin7707 You should see mine lol

FOOL

fr no gorceries baskets keeping the front wheel down grandpa looool@@raymondo162

it definitely tops out at around 60 due to KV of motor & voltage but 80mph on this thing is near suicidal

⁠@@GaiusGarageWhat feels the least stable? There’s a guy running aluminum frame e-bikes at 100mph. Tour de France and Mountain bike downhill racers can hit very high speeds. Which components are you most worried about?

@@smithright there no steering damning so Im afraid of the steering resonating out of control. This aluminum frame is not designed for these speed and forces - unlike steel, aluminum has little elasticity and fails suddenly. just not worth the risk IMO

​​@@GaiusGaragealuminum is not the problem you just need a sturdy frame that is designed to take much more than casual pedaling 15-20mph on smooth pavement. your hardtail MTB frame is probably capable of much more than you think. as long as it's a brand name bike and not Walmart Chinese junk (don't get me wrong Chinese know how to make good stuff Taiwan makes frames for the whole world, ranging from junk to high end). full suspension mountain bikes like enduro or downhill would be even sturdier but way more complicated to convert to ebikes especially with a big battery. But stepping up from entry level hardtail to a more advanced trail focused aluminum hardtail with modern geometry and 29in wheels would give you a stronger frame, longer wheel base and more stability at speed. these frames are designed to work with a long travel dropper post so the top tube will be lower and the triangle smaller, less space for the ebike conversion so you might need to make a triangular battery pack that fills the frame for high power/high speed I'd pay extra attention to the hubs and maintaining them (probably change the grease for something rated for higher speeds) and probably relace the rear wheel with stronger spikes or at least check the tension regularly especially before a high speed test. then of course obvious upgrades to go 60+mph: road tires for better grip and stability and brake upgrades to reduce brake fade like bigger rotors.

80mph is physically possible with the right "gearing" (kV and battery voltage) form a motor point of vue as 200cc 25hp motorcycle reach 90mph

Holy crap that thing must feel like a rocketship

yeah bro i gotta be easy on the throttle on takeoff or else its gonna do a wheelie

ola s1 pro owner xd, i got the gen 2, pretty damn fun. Will lurch forward at every twist and will spin the wheels if it isnt solid ground

Same sort of acceleration as a Tesla. No gear shifting.

my 3000w 72v ebike tops out at about 80kmh and thats scary enough for me

Yeah, my next battery pack definitely gonna be lipo! 18650 based batteries are great and cheap, but lipo is getting cheap too because of drones!

what the fuck are yall even saying@@AaronHendu

@@user-qj9xd7nl7n they are discussing the intricacies between 18650 batteries, and lipo cell packs, why are you so mad

LiPo have by far the greatest power density of any chemistry but they are also the most spicy in other ways too. The reason they aren't used in applications that don't need the most power possible from a small battery is because they like to catch fire extremely easily lol. They're lots of fun but be careful.

hes smart but its not anything you couldn't do, just take the time to research and learn, anything is possible

Ask him the power rating on his "15kW" motor and listen to his explanation. You might change your opinion.

​@@slimsqde7397 I agree when I built my ebkke that can go 43mph. It made me think I could do more. It was a gateway to CC engines lmao.

my advice you be to let the bike be a bike and look to something like a sur ron to MX style frame for the 50mph+ stuff

great advice, you mean like this ukposts.info/have/v-deo/r6eip41orLBqro0.html

​@@GaiusGaragehey can you sell me your 2000 watt setup

​@@GaiusGaragecan you share the link to the 60 amp controller from second stage bike

yeah this bike frame is definitely not a good fit for this setup. But you dont need to go full motorcycle for this either - a stealth bomber frame is perfect for this - I have a build video here: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/kaCLdWmheIZ7wHk.html but if you wanna go full motorcycle conversion you can check out this video ukposts.info/have/v-deo/rp50laOuhZqQqok.html

Honestly, ya why not! You could probably get something for a few hundred $$ and then it would have a VIN so maybe it would be road legal and insurable.

Somebody here posted a great vid. of a small 1970's junk motorcycle converted to e-power. The motor was swapped for a battery tray and it was perfect for a high- output ebike. What I don't know is whether you'd have to register such a thing.

The stealth. B. frame rocks because it can be built into something that looks like a bicycle. Who wants to register one of these things? Not me.​@@GaiusGarage

Its beating a lot of motorcycles

Biking is the only form of transport more energy-efficient than walking.

​@@macmccune21 don't think so, mine (600cc) does 0-60 mph in 3,2s

@@minimoviezzz you really think a 600cc sports bike is a "normal" one, maybe in the hobbyist section, but in most of the world, a 125cc is the normal.

tbh I was hoping he wouldn't that frame was incredibly weak with all of that load it was under as it was and if he hit the breaks on that shit for an emergency his ass would have went flying or wrecked right into something, that bike probably would have combusted too 🤣 this whole damn invention was dangerous as it was, why increase the odds of ya boy dying?

I'd buy one.

How much

Those tires are really heavy. I have the same ones. But I also run tire liners and downhill tubes. Probably would do a good job at adding a significant amount of weight based on how heavy my wheel setup is. Not quite 20lbs on the front end, but it's way heavier than it needs to be (I just never wanted to deal with flats. Never got a flat with that setup)

Domt add weight ballasts on an ebike...always add more battery. The battery is a ballast.

Thanks so much! yeah 3D printers can be really useful. you can pick one up for maybe $150, although the less expensive ones can be a bit more frustrating to use

@@GaiusGarage Hi there, Thanks for replying (most don't lol) I was wondering if you could help me with a problem I got... I bought a Sabvoton 7245M Controller (£180) and when I tried to connect it up to my Voilamart Kit when I twisted the throttle the damn wheels were spinning at the same time, which terrified me so I ended up putting the stock Voilamart controller back on and shunt modding it... Thing is I really want to somehow get the Sabvoton controller working with my bike, I tried to connect it to my phone using the USB lead but it said it wasn't recognizing the connection - as I figured I'd have to run a set-up test before I could get the controller working correctly with my e-bike build, which is a Voilamart rear hub kit 1500w48v with a 52v20ah battery... I'm now looking at ordering a Sabvoton Bluetooth Dongle (£40 from eBay) as I'm thinking this must be the right thing to do so I can get the controller working with my bike.. Do you know if the Bluetooth dongle has to be specifically for Sabvoton? As £40 seems a bit much for a damn Bluetooth dongle, I mean if it's my only option I'll pay it, but it's just got me wondering..? All I want really is more torque power as my current setup does 35-37mph tops I just want it more powerful hence the reason I bought the 7245m controller as the stock Voilamart controller is only 30amp I'm sure... I just don't get why the peddles were spinning when the rear wheel was, I'd been careful to get all the wiring done correctly.. I installed the MCQON app on my mobile too, I'll have to get the Bluetooth dongle as I don't have a PC so I'll only be able to use my phone to programme the controller. Just wondered if you have any experience using a sabvoton 7245m controller with the Bluetooth dongle etc? Cheers, and sorry about such a lot to read, I hope you can understand roughly what I'm trying to put across.

Yes, the bluetooth dongle has to be specifically for Sabvoton. it's possible that they sell them on ebay but I've purchased mine from the manufacturer directly. I'm happy to help with wiring for the Sabvoton - please feel free to book a 1:1 session here: calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult

@@GaiusGarage Hi, and thanks for the info, I ordered the Sabvoton Dongle just half an hour ago, it should be with me by Monday (I hope). I'm guessing you charge for a half hour consultation? I should be ok with the wiring as I've looked at tonnes of info online, I've a feeling I may just need to alter the configuration of the motors phase wires, it something simple either way I'll work it out. Most likely it needs to run it's initial controller set-up routine before I will be able to alter anything. I was wondering, how much did your 3d printer cost you? I'm guessing about 4-5k (or maybe more)? I bet if I had one of them I'd have been able to 3d print some torque arms for my rear axle, I bought 2 x cheap ones off of e-bay, but I had no faith in them being of any use as they looked pretty naff to me so instead I fabricated 2 x Steel plate 5mm thick ones, and put one on either side of the rear end. Made me feel so much safer than when using the cheap standard ones (exact same ones in your vid, the jubilee clip type, I think they are pretty much useless)... I bet you've done some great projects with that 3d printer, damn I wish I had one as I think I'm gunna have to make some form of lower frame bar bracket to attach the Sabvo7245M controller to the underside of my lower frame. Thanks again, You've been most helpful, stay cool! 😎

@@mickyb.8014yes, the 30 min consult is paid I also have 15min version in case you need some quick info. The option is there if you need it. 3D printer is definitely not $4-5k. You can pick one up for as little as $150. Decent one is $300. premium is $1k

Much appreciated, sir!

Thank you!

yeah, Ive had to true the rear wheel several times

@@GaiusGarage no doubt. How are the brakes doing? (I know no one gives a sh*t but I'm curious)

@@simonleonard5431 definitely have to change the pads more often but fine for stopping

@@GaiusGarage you don't ever want that moment when you want to stop and you can't. Please 🙏 make brakes 2x power

you need disk breaks.

yup, I'd hate coming off anything above 25

My bike starts feeling sketchy above 35mph. I know it can go a little faster than that I've had 38 or 39 on a wide quiet road but nope on a mountain bike that just ain't safe. I electronically set the top speed to not exceed 30 and I'm happy with it there.

Thank you!

Thank you!!

Thank you! It really just comes down to careful measurement and enough filament to go through many iterations of adjustments

​@GaiusGarage what hub motor is this and the watts

​@@GaiusGaragecan you send me the link to the 60 amp controller that you had

Thank you so much!

Way to much it’s like 200aud each lipo

if you have to ask, too much

Everything is listed in the description, with links..

thank you, sir!

You are the airbag on a bicycle when hit the curb. (If you’re lucky) Better use a motorframe and abs brakes

Thanks! The tires are perhaps ideal for this type of bike but the frame is far from.. I'll definitely make a pass at an ideal "top speed" bike like this in the future

Thank you!

thank you! one way you can model is with a 3D scanner but one that will give you the resolution needed is very expensive. although I've had decent luck with 3D scanning using the camera on an iPhone 13 Pro but it takes some cleanup. but the best way is just some old-fashioned tedious measuring and iterative adjustments

Right frame would be an elongated hardtail with a soft suspension seat and foot pegs that let you get symmetrical. An aero fairing on the front wheel with stabilizing weight behind the wheel, as low as possible. Going super fast is an exercise in sheer luck unless you also invest in slowing down while maintaining control. There's a couple different ways that can be accomplished besides the usual heavy duty motorcycle rotors and hydraulic brakes. You could engine brake, spinning your motor like a flywheel. You could add another brake system like linear V brakes. The weak point of those approaches is the surface adhesion of your rear tire. If the tire skids, that's it. Let me suggest a new idea. Use your 3d printing skills to produce a set of vanes that act like an airplanes' airbrakes. Mount them on a frame that extends back behind the back wheel, and make damn sure you can brace your feet on the pegs when stopping.

Thank you!

Mind your own business nerd

Homemade is okay I think, there just isn't a way to get this registered because it doesn't meet like *any* of the safety requirements.

​@@valtarijunkkala To use such vehicle on public roads in Europe, you will need a motorcycle driver's licence which is completely separate from the one for cars, registration (with plates), a roadworthiness test, and a compulsory third-party liability insurance. It's effectively the same as a DIY motorbike or car. Near impossible for a natural person. So no, homemade is unfortunately not ok.

@@fuxseb Well this is literally, accoring to law, A2 class motorcycle and you will ofcourse need A2 license to drive it. as far as I can tell, reading from Finnish authorities websites, you can get a homemade vehicle registered. So, DIY is ok. However, as I said, this bike doesn't meet any of the safety requirements, for a A2 class bike, and so this specific bike isn't going to get registered. My whole point was that being DIY is not a problem in of it self.

Thank you, sir!

Thank you, sir!

yup, I'm with you, full suspension full size frames, why are all the frames BMX size now???

shit this sounds amazing... Any chance you have a blog or youtube channel yourself? I know very little coming into this, but it really does seem like you can build a long range mostly throttle, good torque (for hills) ebike and not only save but customize it easier.

​@@caogomii can build a better than on the video, if someone prepared to pay. But it's all starts with modest budget of a surron

Like it would cost you that much to build? I was just thinking in terms of diy, and some custom machined parts perhaps being able to make something super nice yourself with good torque and range. Nothing crazy or fast, but something even a larger person on a bike could get 60 miles and tackle some steep hills without dropping too much speed. @@eXTreemator I think it was just nice to see things like this can be done, and safely.

@@caogomi every nice thing cost money. Yes it's not free. All nice components cost money as well as labour. And custom machined parts take it to another level of cost. People want the best but done want to pay for the best

It is very common to go 20mph on a bike.

@@timothyhendricks3004 still serious to hit a pothole at those speeds. hitting one at 50mph+ is most definitely going to be life threatening.

Yeah, maybe not so bad on the low end, but it still gives you a good scare. I've had that happen while riding, and if I hadn't seen it I'd be missing teeth. At 50mph though? That's full face helmet time. Done around 50mph on a giant hill once, normal road helmet, scary and fun for sure.

Thanks! yeah this bike was pretty sketchy

yeah mid-drive conversions are hard on the drivetrain for bike. but hub motors are hard on the dropouts. basically, conversion are best when they are relatively low power. the higher power stuff is best for steel/custom/purpose-built frames

Thank you! yeah bomber is the way to go for a solid hub motor bike. I have a stealth bomber build on my channel also

I'll check it out. Would be tough to break the frame! Heavy but fine with me... Also the long wheelbase makes it stable. I worry about Aluminum, it fatugues. It doesn't have steel's elasticity. Stress cracks happen so please be careful? Just something to consider..​@@GaiusGarage

Appreciate it man! I'm working on posting more content, which I think will help it grow

These maxxis tires actually are dirt tires rated up to 80psi - they actually wouldnt even be very useful off-road. got them specifically for this purpose. low handlebars would definitely be the way to go as well

Thank you! I sold this bike a while back. From what I know it's still in use with the new owner

Thank you for the update 👋❤@@GaiusGarage

I've sold it since but it held up well until then. the epoxy bonding the dropouts did eventually fail and needed to be redone

Or idk... A fat tire bike? You can easily get those with steel frames

Much appreciated! Would be great to offer as a kit but the 3d printed mounts are so specific to each frame. I think when it comes to ebike conversions, diy is the only viable solution. Cheers!

Thanks! Yeah Ive started printing with PETG-CF recently - really awesome stuff! Didn't know about 97 SHA TPU - definitely gotta check it out

@@GaiusGarage Yes PETG-CF is quite nice, prints easily on an open printer like yours and has enough flex to survive the hard knocks of EMTB, I use standard PA-CF as its also very flexible and can withstand the odd crash :) I use PA-CF for mounting things like display holders, phone holders, light brackets and even mudguards, but PETG-CF would also do the job, not quite as durable but still good enough, I make all sorts of other gear for race bikes like pouches and toolkit holders out of the TPU, and will be the best material for custom battery packs and controller mounts.

@@nexgen-3d-printing why do you think TPU would be best for mounts? Isn't TPU flexible - a good mount would be strong and rigid. I've been using PETG-CF for structural mounts lately and PLA plus for non-structual anesthetic components, since it's easier to achieve very smooth surfaces without sanding with PLA vs. other filaments

@@GaiusGarage TPU acts like hard rubber, if you look at some of the electronics you removed from the KLR Ill bet some were mounted to the chassis in rubber, usually 60 SHA or harder, isolating electrical devices through a vibration dampening mount will help prevent damage to them, 97 SHA TPU is flexible but its not soft, and its far stronger than plastic, its heat, chemical, UV resistant as well, the eSun Black TPU is really tough, give it a shot, and the 83 SHA TPE is really good for making water tight gaskets or vibration wraps for metal clamps etc.

@@nexgen-3d-printing I see. that's a good point about vibration dampening. Thank you for the feedback! I will definitely give some TPU mounts a try - maybe replace some I've already printed for current projects.

Thanks! Yeah basically lol - just though it would be fun

I do own several & thank you!