I will certainly have a look at it again in the future.

Probably impossible without putting a different motor/generator in

@@testboga5991 I think the controller is shitty/broken instead of motor not producing useful power.

@@richardlighthouse5328 Probably a combination of both. I imagine when he tears the generator apart he'll find it doesn't have the right winding or enough windings to work properly, and probably the control board is just e-waste. But I also hope he makes a follow-up video on that product because it seems like there should be a way to get it working.

@@richardlighthouse5328 That's what I was thinking - the generator shouldn't freespin that fast if it was under any sort of load.

Will try to do so soon when it gets warmer outside

@@greatscottlab Yes please, maybe it just needs better magnets and coils? I'd love to see it made useful instead of it being a garbage product, since the quality looks so good might as well make it good :)

+1

@@joeledwards6587 maybe the one he got was faulty

Perhaps test it on top of a car at different driving / wind speeds?

I am having fun with it as well and viewers seems to like it too. So I guess from time to time I will make such videos ;-)

Everyone feels the same. I think a passive element of surprise make this series fun to watch

Yeah make more

yes these videos are valued and entertaining

My wallet doesn't, videos like this motivate me to start exploring AliExpress just to buy something that i don't need

Not a bad idea :-)

At first that exactly what I thought it was.

Add a small temperature probe (either diode or resistive) I wonder if a random op amp (tl071/72) wired as a dead bug with a 1n4148 as the temperature sensor and a zener as the cv source would be enough to get a good temperature shutoff.

@@satibel This contraption sounds interesting. Could you perchance elaborate on how it is supposed to function?

@@cbs1710 diodes and bjt transistors, which are similar, PNP or NPN for a transistor vs PN for a diode, lose around 2mv per C at constant current and so if you have a constant voltage and a resistor, it basically behaves as a cc source, you can use an operational amplifier as a schmitt trigger (basically it turns on at a higher temperature that it turns off at, so it doesn't switch between on/off all the time) and add a potentiometer to the output of the diode/transistor to adjust the temperature. with a bit of calculation (or experimentation) you can make the max temperature between something like ambient +10C and ambient +40C (because the rest of the circuit isn't temperature regulated it'll change depending on the ambient temperature, though it's a bit more complicated than that, but you have a warm to hot knob, which is good enough.) the zener diode is there as a voltage reference, so it doesn't change too much depending on the power supply. though tbh, it'd probably be easier to get a 40, 50 or 60C NC temperature switch and fix it to the bottom with some thermal interface material (TIM), then use a constant current source (basically an op amp with a resistor and a transistor) to feed the coil as a heating element and avoid overloading the power supply. but since we need an op amp to feed it, we could use a chip with multiple to do the temperature regulation cheaper and with some control, but for a one of project the 60 cent difference isn't worth it, unless you're doing it for fun or education. you could have a selector switch and switch between the 3 temperature switches if you want warm to hot.

I hope to do so :-) Last part performed super well. And if this one does too then I will keep going for a while :-)

@@greatscottlab yay!

I got a similar one from Amazon and I love it

Will try to do so :-)

Glad you like it :-)

Glad to help

Yep. Better than I expected. Would recommend.

According to someone else, it may have self discharge issues, so you may want to add a high current switch between the battery and the board

Thanks. It really is fun :-)

Looked very interesting. One question however. The two welding ends have a long section of what looks like exposed copper. The part you hold on to! Why is it not shocking you every time you use it? It looks like it was intentionally made this way.

@@jarls5890 I would assume this is because of a low voltage but a high current. Also because the current is flowing through the metal strip, it will have no need to flow through the skin, as the metal strip is the path of least resistance. Plus, the internal circuit seems to look for a short across the probes before supplying any current, a short circuit the resistance of skin cannot provide. In any case this is nothing a little shrink wrap couldn't fix. :)

@@jarls5890 It's powered by a 1S lithium battery which is only 4.2V max - not nearly enough to feel.

Did you get one for Christmas and test it?

@@TheFreak111 unfortunately I did not. Funds were a little tight last year.

Thanks....I guess :-)

Open source software exist...Learn how to use yt-dlp, you'll never need another UKposts downloader

I might check it out in a future video

Looking at the rotor diameter you would need close to a hurricane to get 1KW from it.

Several on thingiverse, if you have a printer to print them. Search for “wiring pen”

I've checked the 909d, it's pretty good, although still a prefer a more expensive route which is a hot air + soldering station and a power supply separately. The 909d power supply can only output 2A which may or may not be too small for your projects and it doesn't have limit control on the current side. The display for the current is also analog which may make reading a little bit hard and inaccurate

I haven't tried the 909D, but I do have an 898D which is very similar and has a soldering iron and hot air station. The hot air station does the job fine. The soldering iron, on the other hand, is not so great - on mine, the element didn't even make direct contact with the tip so it'd take forever to heat up. I later switched to a TS100, which is much better.

Love to know how they got a patent on the side as I bought a plastic version of the wire pen 45 years ago to wire up TTL circuits !

@@siontheodorus1501 Yeah. I think the 909d is intended more for phone repair. The analog current meter can be useful because of the update speed, allowing you to monitor boot current of phones (also providing to the idea it is more aimed towards phone repair)