Link says it's private o.O

are you located in arizona, im currently in the process of shipping my 1996 gc8 from japan and i want a sony surround system so bad

Does tha 02-07 Dash jus bolt in? Ah have an 01 RSTI an was thinking of updating tha dash.

Spoken like a man who has uninstalled a few head units. 😏 Been there myself. More than once, I’m ashamed to say.

1. Bad ground. 2. Blown fuse. 3. Loose connection. It’s usually one of those.

AZW

I’ve made that mistake 😂

Damn, gonna get alcohol poisoning at that point

Wears a Cleetus shirt then copies the saying 😂

I took your challenge and now I'm feeling glonky my guy

How did John die?

Facts

Soo true.

Id have my ass raped if I ran wires through steal without grommets. seen a few returned "faulty" products returned with blatant wire shorts from this exact issue

And must add.. use no smaller then 12 gage wire for subs.. 16 is too small!

@@toddjohnson1518 16g is fine for that tiny little amp and "sub", 330 watts at 4 ohms, with that short distance run under 2'. The xmax is only like 6.5. This thing doesn't flex, it twitches.

FR

I was thinking the same thing... I wonder how well you'll be able to hear those high notes f/the tweeters in that location?? Otherwise very clean!!

Actually, with the tweeters in the lower position the distance from the drivers head to the two tweeters is closer to being the same. So, the sound arrives to your ears somewhat in phase. It IS better to have them up top if you're running an active system and can delay them to be in phase with DSP. But, they're running passive crossovers and aren't able to do that. So, my man in the video there knows exactly what he's doing. :-)

@@MitchellWilsonII welllllll dsp's are great so they should run a dsp😂

@@devinstepp4205 This is true.

@@MitchellWilsonII that’s what I was thinking. First I was like why are they so low then I noticed passive crossovers. They are clean and that’s what matters.

I back this 100%

Or "she ain't goin no where"

@@mikefitzhenry7535 yeah, I thought the samething after watching the rest of the video hahaha

Haha yeah "she ain't goin nowhere" down the sleeves

@@Neoncollects Hopefully they print the T-Shirts with his name spelled correctly, LOL. I believe that it is "RANDALL" and not "Randle".

You ever did a 370z before? Or what kinda head unit do you install the most

@@masterk5066 Kenwood DMX7706S I’m also a stereo installer. This radio is by far better than the Sony. The interface is better for use and has more features. As well if you were to use a 4ch amp the pre outs have about 4.5 - 5v so the sound quality is there.

Did you put the fuse in the wrong end like these guys? 😅

@@tomijorg I didn't see under the hood side anywhere in the video, but I'd assume they have a fuse by the battery too. I've always done fuses at the amplifier as well using distribution blocks, especially when there are multiple amplifiers. It is how I was taught and what I see in a majority of multi-amp videos I have watched.

@@mikeysousa164 any head units that will decide MQA via Tidal.

facts

Acrylic spacers would have been even better. Wont break down over time from condensation.

@@neilmeschke Agreed, though acrylic is very brittle and not as easy to cut & drill without it fracturing or cracking. I typically use HDPE, Sintra (expanded/blown PVC), "King Starboard", and ABS plastic.

Appreciate you!

Dude when u do stuff like this it's for you not the next person. Fuck them it's your money.

@@davey6024 but why wouldn't you just get the appropriate harness adapter instead of permanently cutting the factory harness?... It just doesn't really make sense not to, regardless of whose money it is. It's more work AND less optimal to splice into the vehicle harness.

True on t hw harness but to me its can help as practice the first jvc tape i did was with no harness, no book on a dakota its not that bad at all

@@SecretSauceyjuice they we wired the whole car 1 more harness wouldnt hurt

@@DC-bc9pe no its 1 *less* harness. I wanted them to use an additional harness that could unplug from a factory plug and remove the radio cleanly. Instead they cut the wires individually. It's just not as clean of an install to do it that way and makes removing it later annoying af.

Please check out the *5 Star Car Stereo* UKposts channel featuring hundreds of full install videos in all types of vehicles. I think you'll dig it. ;) They also have short specific topic installation videos on their *Dean and Fernando's Car Stereo Clips* UKposts channel. Highly recommended.

Simple. Just ground it. Lol

ya. just run the wire to a relay that you control.

@@zayrsps2631 the just "ground it" unfortunately does not apply to all cars atleast for the nissan frontier had to buy a parkbreak bypass

why

@@johnstaker6706 when he cut the factory harness. The way he ran the wires in the door. Nothing between the speaker and the metal on the door. Yes all of it is subjective but

Agreed. The rear deck just made me sad because there are adapters for that

Got me at the all copper wire is the same… just went down from there in a lot of aspects. Not how I would’ve done things, however not my build.

I agree. The head unit is really the most important. Bad first signal leads to bad output signal.

yes! Always fuse the wire immediately off the battery. You can additionally fuse it at the amp, but that is not what prevents the power wire from setting the car on fire.

yeah, fuses need to be near battery.

Check out the *Clean Wire Club* on Facebook Group that was started by Dean & Fernando from the *5 Star Car Stereo* UKposts channel. ;)

You can also solder your wires to the sub. That’s what I did. Better connection. More hassle in the future though if I change my setup or something goes wrong

@@benjaminsmith8300 that’s why I don’t…. I’m always looking to upgrade and get louder lol it’s the addiction now haha

@@marioschneller8938 The spring terminals on the subwoofer are more than adequate to keep the bare wire or wire ferrules securely connected to the subwoofer. If you use bare wire to connect to the subwoofer's spring terminals, it's a good idea to solder or "tin" just about 1/8" at the very end of the wire and strip enough insulation off of the wire so that this soldered end sticks out just a tiny bit past the far side of the spring terminal's hole. The soldered end keeps the wires from fraying apart, but allows the spring terminals to compress against the bare copper wire strands to make better contact. And for a subwoofer, I probably would have used at least 14 AWG wire rather than 16 AWG, but the 16 AWG will be adequate at this power level, especially for this short wire run from the subwoofer amplifier to the sub. It's the wires inside that connect to the enclosure's terminal cup that need to be soldered because those press-fit spade terminals can easily vibrate loose over time due to the subwoofer vibration. It's also a good idea to wrap the wires inside the enclosure with foam tape (like self-adhesive foam weather-stripping) because they can rattle and make unwanted noise when vibrating against the inside of the enclosure.

@@bbfoto7248 how have I never thought of this it’s such an obvious huge help which makes me feel foolish for never thinking of this! Thank you for the huge tip! I wish I would have taken up the apprentice ship for installs I got 10 years ago.

Can we get a video of the Sony set-up in you Yaris?

do you have to have your phone plugged in to use apple car play?

@Andrew Royal I have never heard of the Sony amp that you mentioned, well atleast not that I can recall. I'm gonna have to look that one up, as I was not aware of Sony even making a .5 ohm stable amplifier... And it was a 5 channel half ohm stable amp?! Going to look it up now. Hope you end up seeing my comment.

@@itdoesntmatterwhatyourname6128 yeah they had a whole line in 1999-2001 that was half ohm stable and high current/load switchable. But that 5 channel was the pinnacle

The non mobile ES one was the xm-1002 but there are 4-5 of them

I was thinking about Focal. Your system sounds like a great one!