Thank you AJ for this... This video answered a few questions ive been having. As others mentioned, it might be repetitive for you, but watching all the steps helps us noobs understand mo-betta!

Can you do a video where you use PVA and also NOT skip any parts? Sometimes it sounds like “wipe on wipe off” is self explanatory but for beginners we’re very mistake prone lol. Thank you!

I really like that this mold was a struggle for you, because I feel like this is exactly what we will encounter when we first start molding parts.

Thank you for your videos!.. priceless info...Ive been wanting to carbon fiber copy my car body parts but been clueless where to start

I have a new helper in the shop he works in all 3 companies. He has really taken to the composite shop and is good at it I will have him watch you video. On another note I'm going to sale my first part at the end of the month the water dispenser that I sent pictures of I'm supper excited. I have spent tons of money and 2 years honing my skills and now it will pay off anyone else doing this just hang in there you will get it have a great day.

I am so here for this. Thank you

Thank you man for showing us that even as a professional there still little hiccups but all good great video

Man you are fire! I love this

Those different levels got me

Super video!!Thanks a lot!!!

Good job!

Muchas gracias por tu aporte en los videos me motiva a intentarlo

greatest man on youtube

A couple of questions . . . first, since your fiber mats extended past the ends of the part, and then you cut through those. Doesn't that tend to induce a frayed or rough edge? I know you sanded the edge, but don't you have to seal it in some way? (Or is the infusion so complete that the cut/sanded edge is still basically monolithic in nature?) Second, your objective in making it CFC? Looking at that part as a machine builder, I could see making it out of a piece of sheet aluminum. Then, instead of spending the time making a mold, I could have spent time machining a basket weave of material away for lightness, if that was more of the objective? I also tend to like metal if I ever think I'm going to have to modify it because I can add bosses, taps and things more easily after the fact. Obviously for curved, structural body panels, CFCs can more easily yield a stronger, more complexly shaped, light weight part, with managable tooling. (Or was this more just for the demonstration?)

Amazing video thank u

I believe the reason why you had those holes appear on the gel was due to the Clay releasing oxygen creating those air pockets D: I could be wrong but I do believe the clay were exposed to oxygen inside them while you were molding around the piece. Think it takes more than 24 hours for the clay to dry fully before appyling any application over it. Absolutely amazing job! Makes me want to invest in doing something like this for my future project build!

He telling us the most boring part,me= that look so awesome and to relax

So you may have been asked this a thousand times too, but with the parts you use to create the mold, like this cover... Are they useable if you're not needing to sand them and mod them too much, such as a body panel or interior trim? Thanks

Good job

An interesting video. I just wonder how much lighter the carbon fibre access door is compared to a fabricated sheet aluminium part?

Hi. Please make a video about how you make matrices (forms) for vacuum infusion🙏🙏🙏

From what I learnd today you need Pva if you have some deep parts that wont easily leave the mould. PVA can guarantee some decimals of flex when you demold a piece with two straight edges.

How much epoxy do you use for a part? Is there a specific chart you follow for each part?

Can you please list the materials you use to mold ?

May I ask you, why in some cases you firstly apply a top coat on the mould before applying the carbon fiber and in this case you didn't? Thanks.

Hello, is the process the same if the piece you want to re-make is metal instead of plastic?

waiting to see that undertray

Hello sir, i just found your channel and like the videos, you definitely gained a subscriber :) However i do have one quesion: Are you not concrened with the health risks of Glass fiber exposure? Right at the beginning (0:05) you can see the open goll of glass fiber Mat and i was really suprised by this. I always make sure to store my stuff in some plastic bag or box to minimize the exposure of glass fiber.

The adhesive on many masking tapes do not play well with styrene. I know the masking tape was under the clay but the vapor may have permeated it .

love the video! the reason that your gel ended up like that is from too much product applied at one time. I know it was a small part but if you used a cup gun or hvlp to spray the gel on i dont think you would have had that issue with the clay. Also id recommend using yellow plasticine wax rather than clay its much easier to work with applying and modeling.

Como pode ser aplicado em peças confeccionadas?

Your clay has contaminations in it. Time to get new clay. Make sure to vacuum bag the clay between projects so you do not contaminate it with dust and chemicals from the shop

any suggestions on a lower cost gelcoat? found the one in your video and its 200 for it, curious if there are more cost effective options or if thats something not worth cheaping out on

can you do a video on when your making a carbon fiber part how do you know how much resin and hardener do you use for the part I guess you could say the formula for each part that you make. Thanks

I found your video and the part came out great. I'm not fond of "wiped it down with acetone" and then keep touching it with your bare hands. No matter how clean your hands are they still have oils on them. Wear gloves and a respirator. Working with glass and carbon fiber (I'm and aircraft mechanic) you need PPE. Thank you for the interesting video.

Mucho gräcias brah.

I've had many molds "lift" during the tooling gelcoat stage for reasons i just can't nail down. I originally thought I applied too much release wax or pva... or even my gelcoat was too thick in that area. I've yet to get a concrete answer as my "lifting" point changes each time 🤦🏻‍♂️

Nice works. But you could probably avoid the spray coat and use packing tape to cover the surface and have a ready to use nice surface

I believe the reason for the gelcoat reacting with the clay is because of either moisture or oils in the clay itself. When I use PVA, those issues go away.

do you have prevate classes on how to make carbon fiber

What’s the point of the primer? Why not just put the gel coat on the part? How many layers of fiberglass did you apply? What’s the gsm of the fiberglass sheet? What epoxy/ resin did you use? The us composite gel coat can be brushed on and not sprayed?

была нормальная крышка, её никто не видел и не увидит,никакой роли её прочность и или вес не играют, но, мы истратим море времени, кучу материалов и энергоресурсов, создадим гору мусора и неперерабатываемых и в том числе токсичных отходов, и сделаем крышку из композита придуманного и рассчитанного на создание деталей к которым предъявляются особые требования по физико-механическим характеристикам, при этом всем покажем как делать не надо, а потом всё это выбросим, ну что, мы молодцы?, ну конечно же мы молодцы!

Try to get hold of Pelikan Nakiplast. It's a filleting wax.

How are you going to take a mold of the undertray when generally it's pretty floppy?

I think that the carbon oil door is cool and stronger than the plastic but a big reason for carbon fiber is the weight reduction. Even if the weight savings is only 1 ounce on this 5" x 6" part, I can scale up for the whole undertray. Please tell the weight savings of this 2 layer carbon vs. original plastic.

How long do these molds last?

Why not fill those light scratches with hard wax? Seems like reasonable solution.

At this point we are ready to coat it ---- "WITH WHAT ?"

it would be faster and probably easier to skip most of coating steps and instead add scotch tape that would give nice finish and easy release

Use sulfer free clay

I have never made traditional mold. I just 3D-design and 3D-print the mold, negative or positive.

Nice quiet a bit of work 😅

terrible

To simplify this process and to make it more rigid I would have ditched the single bolt for a 3 bolt with no lip and reached for a sheet of flat carbon and cut it out. And used some click bond fasteners. No sanding no finishing no tool making

Clay sucks. When the gel kicks it gets hot, that heat will cause the clay to sweat, and then the gel will release. There is a better way to make that flange with very little to no clay at all.