It might also be useful to look at stone axes for another step less hard.

copper age lasted little and was followed by bronze age. For this copper that was found native was used

I agree. Stone and bronze blades all had that "fat" edge profile for edge retention in less than durable material. Good stuff.

Another mistake here, was grinding away the folded over edge. He should have just peened in back into shape, at least until and unless it work hardened enough that it broke off rather than rolling over. Watched a dude scythe a whole lawn of overgrown grass, (which requires a pretty fine edge if you don't wanna work yourself to death) never using anything to sharpen it other than a peening hammer and tiny anvil.

Forgot to add arsenic. Arsenical bronze is a different lump.

WAS JUST THINKING THAT!

I renovated some houses built with old growth pine, as in, the first trees white people cut down when they came to america. The shit was so dense you couldn't nail into it with anything but cut nails, and sometimes even then they would fucking bend. Modern wood is fucking garbage. I make random shit out of old growth sycamore now. Once it dries you can't really work it.

I love that this game is so popular. I also thought about not cutting down harder types of wood, but the first tree available in Valheim isn't maple?

hey side fun fact (from history): it would take upwards of three stone axes to cut down a single tree in the stone age, while a bronze axe would generally survive at least a few cuttings - though not without significant damage, if the wood was hard enough!

@@theradioactiveplayer3461and bronze and copper tools would have had the edges reworked and straightened as they were used to keep them in better condition

Agreed

i know right?? i was so confused when he ground them off. the hatchet probably would've held up a little better too since it would've had a bit extra material

Yeah, there're easily as many bronzes as steels, and just like with steel very small changes make all the difference sometimes. Whatever this alloy is, it's kind of pretty but clearly doesn't quite... cut it :D

@@Ithirahad tbh his aluminium bronze is harder than what they had in antiquity, and that didn't prevent people from the ancient world from cutting down trees and stuff. His edge got damaged because he probably didnt use the best shape for bronze. Steel is hard enough to hold its shape and can be thinned down a lot. Bronze is weaker so a thicker edge would be better. Also you don't use bronze the same way you use steel. I've forged quite a few quench hardened bronze blades, and even tho they are vastly harder than traditional tin bronze (and will cut shavings from mild steel), it's still much much softer than good hardened steel. I've found that you really need to treat these blades with more respect, and be more careful. Also to keep a shaving sharp edge on a bronze blade, you need to frequently hone the edge. It takes like 10-20 seconds but it keeps the performance good. There are plenty of extremely hard bronze alloys, with the best being CuBe2 or CuCoBe, basically beryllium bronze. Looks like copper, but when quench hardened and tempered, that shit will reach 55HRC, wich is retardedly hard for copper. However beryllium dust is bad for the lungs, so there are alternatives that are nickel based, so basically nickel bronzes, but they look like silver, wich is pointless in terms of aesthetics.

​@jeanladoire4141 what's the best working hardness?

​@jeanladoire4141 I don't cast, but I had occasion to work with nickle tin bronze in my lathe and milling machine and it was very impressive. Easily as tough as mild steel.

Incorrect

Might be the neatest "rule of thumb" I've ever seen...

If you don't mind my asking, what are you casting?

@@Nevir202Gravestone ornaments. I use aluminium bronze because of the patina on it is transparent, so it doesn't turn black over time like other copper alloys do.

@@filopat67 Wow, that's interesting. If that's the case, I'm surprised it isn't more popular.

@@Nevir202It has downsides for casting, quite bit of them. It shrinks when it solidifies, a lot, it's really hard to weld and solder because of the aluminium content, it's difficult to machine because of the workhardening and it's not easy to cast because doesn't run well. When you pour it the smelt is surrounded by a aluminiumoxide "pouch" that causes the pour to slow down and solidify before it fills the mould. For the industrial use it's a bit niche material, so it's not easily obtainable, it's mostly used for marine propellers, valves in process industry and for coins.

@@filopat67 Thanks for the info!

Yes indeed!

Gives it a bit of a martial touch, aesthetically.

Chamfers are the only thing that separates from the animals.

Awesome!

It did work. The video, that is; the purpose of which is to generate views and income.

If you're going to add iron you might as well just throw your hands up and make a steel alloy instead.

lots o' luck with that one. iron's melting point is higher than the burning point of aluminum, copper, and tin.

I think Iron does not dissolve in Al or Cu; it is the silicon present in the cast iron that gets mixed with Al.

His other build with the steel insert was the best idea Maybe on another iteration or V2.0 he can machine a vertical groove in the hatchet head and just slide in the cutting edge then peen it over, then sand it to shape Or maybe call it the quick build version

@@janami-dharmam No, there's commercial aluminium bronze alloys with 1-5% of iron in them. Those with iron are listed as higher hardness, but lower corrosion resistance. (Given that aluminium bronzes are often used in highly corrosive environments, e.g. partially in sea water, that's not necessarily a problem for this application). I do know that silicon bronzes are softer, but more ductile, than aluminium bronzes, so adding silicon is probably the wrong approach for an edge retention alloy. (That said, something things in 0.5 - 1% range have quite different effects to higher concentrations - alloys can get weird!). None of the common commercial aluminium bronzes have silicon in the mix, probably because of this reason (and silicon is more expensive than aluminium).

the study of wood is called dendrology, the study of trees specifically. a botanist studies all plants, and the engineer studies building, construction, and physics. pretty sure one of those is the word you want.

The bigger you make a gong or a bell the longer and louder it vibrates.

Agreed. Also, given the apparent softness, he should have just peened the rolled over edge back into place.

15 degrees would be an incredibly acute angle even for a kitchen knife, let alone an axe.

@@yamiyomizuki Not really. 17 degrees is very common for a kitchen knife. 15 really isn't that extreme. There's plenty of 15 degree kitchen knives.

I've heard old copper-age blades (pre-bronze age) were "sharpened" by simply hammering the edge back into place, rather than using a whetstone or grinding method. This was practical and wasted little of the highly precious metal. Bronze tools could bend too, but I think the attitude was "who cares? just bend it back."

Ah, not exactly. Bronze yes, aluminum bronze, no. Aluminum is very hard to make without complicated equipment. Napolean had a ring made of aluminum; it was worth more than pretty much anything else in the French treasury.

@@josephd.5524 Thank you for respectfully correcting me, that is hard to come by. Was it tin they mixed with copper?

@@ATruckCampbell Yes. Ancients Egyptians used approx. 9-10% tin in a tool grade bronze, rest was copper.

@@josephd.5524 There was an era where aluminium cutlery was a symbol of wealth.

@@josephd.5524Of course Al is a modern metal; most of the Al today comes from electrolysis

I’ll check them out!

OOH Nice!!!! ukposts.info/have/v-deo/m4hjqWyKbKeHlIU.html

Hickory is the best material for handles.

I think he has done a couple of projects using resin prints

Agree 100%

It was in a bad spot. The wind did us a favor.

I disagree. If you'll notice, there is a large wedge missing from the trunk. This makes it impossible for a tree to survive.

"Was" being the key word.. go plant another tree..

You’re a little late, AZ John.

This is typical for a tree in bad soil or with deeproot barrier just around the initial rootbal. Replanting a tree that size and have it survive rarly works wel and requirs a lot of watering the first 2-3 years. I would of cut of the rootball and chucked the tree through a chipper to prevent anybody from starting to suggest replanting. Planting it back in the same hole doesn't fix the problem, either beeing deeproot or bad soil. both requir a lot of work and the after care needed make so it's easier to just replant a smaller tree later and fix the problems with the planting spot in due time instead of hastly.

The sprue was printed with that half of the pattern, so it had to be the top piece. Visible about 30 seconds in.

Next video idea “chat gpt designed my axe”