Hi- Eric from the BlueSCSI project - thanks for taking the time to share your experiences using BlueSCSI! A lot of Amiga work has gone in lately - namely a WiFi network driver and soon some native Amiga apps to help you interact with your BlueSCSI. Disk Jockey just had a release today with a bunch of Amiga goodies in it as well. Quick note is that the headers have a short side - if you install them down and long up it'll fit in the case.

BTW, if anyone is interested. It appears the driver for the WIFI on BlueSCSI v2 is already in the wild. It appears to be new, possibly a little untested, but it does seem to work. Some issues reported on the GVP SCSI controller though. I'm going to get this ASAP and give it a whirl. Expect a new video on this in the bear future!

Don't put solder on the soldering iron to move it to the pin. Think of the solder on the soldering iron as a "thermal paste" to close the gap between the tip of the soldering iron and the pin and pad on the board. Then move the solder from the opposite side to the gap between pad/hole and the pin. Then the flux that is inside the solder is enough, no additional flux needed. This also doesn't waste energy, if you do it often you will get a feeling for it and you can just drag the tip along the pads and pins and the solder from the other side. There is then also no need to clean excessive flux. The wrong method shown here causes the flux that is in the solder to just burn up, the solder then oxidizes and won't flow without additional flux. Also 400°C is probably way too hot or the soldering iron isn't calibrated. At 400°C you can expect flux to burn away really fast. I usually use 250°C to 300°C depending on the solder. And stay away from cheap noname solder, stay with reputable brands. Melting points and the internal flux depend on the alloy, old Sn Pb based solder usually melts at 180°C and has a fairly mild flux and give shiny solder joints. Old lead-free usually melts above 230°C and has a very aggressive flux and produces dull grey solder joints, which can easily be confused with cold solder joints. Newer lead-free solder melts around 220° and there are even low-temperature lead-free options with melting points comparable to those of lead-based solder or even way below. Chip Quick's original product (at least what I know them for) is a solder with the same name, it is bismuth-based and its melting point is so low that it can be used to desolder components by just adding it and heat it up.

You might try a better flux/solder and a hotter iron, otherwise they won't reflow properly, resulting in those "cold" solder joints.

Sir, your technique of transfer soldering is not correct. You would get the correct strength of the solder joint from heating the pin, then feeding the solder joint with solder. With new electronics or through hole, flux in the solder should be sufficient. Also, yes, there is flux Inside the solder. Sometimes use extra expensive flux is a false economy.Generally i only use flux to finish or on old electronics or for surface mount components.Just a side note the extra long legs on the raspberry pi can be cut with a good set of side cutters.This is from a 35 year plus electronic technician.😮

what about using a SCSILVD to SATA adapter then you can connect them to the Motherboard of your computer

Wish there was a cheap open source SCSI to USB these days.

Adaptec!

Your soldering method is dodgy! You said it yourself that you are not heating the pin very much. That means the solder will not go into the hole properly which can cause dry joints later down the road. It's better to heat the pin from one side a bit then introduce the solder on the opposite side. The solder you are using already has flux in the core so the syringe of flux is not needed. It takes practise to get used to putting the right amount onto the pin and not holding the iron on it too long or it will melt the plastic the pin is in, though that does have high heat tolerance, but not sustained.

That's some really bad 3d print quality.