Silver soldering is a great idea. I think I would widen the slot width above the 1/4" square opening to 0.315" for a 0.312" filler blank. EDIT 1: The 1/32 land on each side establishes the 1/4 opening, any silver solder closing the opening would need to be filed away (silver solder tends to fillet radius sharp corners and gaps per your supplies and torch skills). EDIT 2: A dovetailed filler slot could be endmilled above the 1/4" opening with a reverse taper one lunger cutter for silver soldering a dovetail filler piece. Any sidewall could be drilled and tapped into the 1/4" opening for a setscrew(s). No cross pins, HSS blank or aluminum shim would be would be required. This procedure could be used to form an opening across the diameter with a 1/4" wide slitting cutter in a Bridgeport. Shop made boring bar?

@@waynespyker5731 I think the technique I'd use would be raise the end mill to half depth in the slot and machine an extra few thou from either side of the slot. That gives you the ideal gap for braze/silver solder fillet but leaves the lower half the slot tight on the insert piece for accurate location. It would also prevent any silver solder from running through into the square hole area.

Thank you very much for your support

@@mrpete222 Yes! This is so educational and information not readily come by on the internet. Seems like this can only be learnt from those who've been around!

They prolly thought there was some slick trick to get a drill to do a square hole. It is what he h advertised; "Drill a square hole." Maybe they just don't get his sense of humor.

​​​@@Raul28153 : More than one way to skin One.

Maybe because he goes on and on at the start. We know what he should be trying do from the title, Or else we wouldn't be here.

Thank you very much

As a long retired machinist, we never had a "rose index", we had to make do with a V block and angle gauges.

FOR SURE...use copper when removing a broken bolt/stud in metal piece, around and inside the hole....then , mig weld to the stud, (slowest rate) and remove. copper wont weld.....and separates the main metal, from the arc.....

Thank you very much, it almost went viral

@mrpete222 I think it did go viral! Tons of chatter found on hobbyist web sites about this one!

Yep. Those "Old Machinist's" were a "Tricky Lot". One thing my dad, "They call me a 'Tool Maker', but not by 'East Coast' standards" said [we're from New England] at the shop in Santa Monica, Ca in '62 was that if you walked away from the machine, back off a 0.001" before you start in again because everything has cooled down and changed dimensions. He did this on an old, non-numerical read out, manual (dial only) Bridgeport Mill and could work +0.00003"/0.0000.0" tolerances all day long.

CmdrMoros This video was made by Mr. Pete. I'm just the guy who made the block he used in his video. Mr. Pete is the teacher that disserves your kind words.

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Good shop project for students-they walk away from class with something useful.

It’s patented. The inventor commented above.

@@G58 Still, patents don't limit someone from making one for his own private use. It protects against other people monitizing the idea. That does indeed rule out a lot of users, but just saying. And whilst I give cudos to the inventor, when I saw it in the video I was sure that tool was a really old one. It's mind buggling that in the world of machining this no one has come up with this earlier.

@@G58 that doesn't prevent you from making a copy for yourself - only from selling them.

Pure contradiction in turn. Why spend $150 when you can do it for less! But, you need to spend $20K on machinery first to do it! That sounds a bit Irish to me. So go and buy a $150 broach instead giving you a saving of 19,850 a bargain

A rose index costs $149 - same price as the broach

I saw the video pop up and right away i thought you would drill it and broach it. I never really thought of doing it this way to be honest about it.

Just another way to skin a cat. Knowledge is good.

@@andyg.8971 But so very useful for so many other things, have struggled in the past making square square pins this would have made things a lot easyer, and accurate.

Thanks

@@mrpete222 Thank you for your response. Are you a traveling man ???

No

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Thank you very much

Thank you for watching. Enjoy your new craft

Thank you very much

Thank you very very much

Thank you

The days when metal and woodwork teachers were retired craftsmen are long gone. Our woodwork teacher was a 77 year old retired cabinet maker. His lessons were awesome and no one played him up, possibly because standing in the corner would probably have involved our arm being clamped in a vice. 😊

I thought the same thing.

Make a Rose indexer. Pretty simple machining project.

Or just use a v-block

@@rstebb311 that is fine for this project where you only nee 90deg, but the Rose gives you 30, 45, 60 & 90deg.

On my shopping list. nice tool.

No kidding.

I took machining courses in Jr. College and had seasoned instructors like this guy. I only worked as a machinist for 2 years then quit because my boss was such an a hole and I believed the whole industry would be like my boss.

Thank you very much

I agree. Taking the time to share your experience is important. The world has changed so much and as a person who went down a path not many people choose makes it difficult to express how much I am thankful for patiently explaining your thought process. Never stop sharing your work....please.

May I say - Mr Pete is not an old machinist, he is timeless! And we thank him for his teaching.

Either way, it's the same principle as "Draw Boring" in woodworking used 14th century through early 20th century solid furniture - most noticeable in "Craftsman", or Mission Style" furniture.

I want one and don't even need one! JIM

Back in the 1940s it would have been great I’m sure

Thank you for the kind words. It means alot. The 2" inventory will probably be used up in a week, however I'm gearing up for another batch of parts. There are still plenty of 1" models available. I look forward to future comments from you and others.......I want to hear if you still feel as if I cost you some money, or if your acquisition was a valuable purchase and you'd happily do it again. Be well and thank you

He explicitly commented on doing this instead of purchasing the relatively expensive broach for a one-time use. It all comes down to how much your time is worth, and how long it would take you to do this, versus buying the broaching equipment. For a lot of home shops, this method makes a lot more sense, even if it does take longer and more work.

Excellent idea, that. I once did something similar with a simple clamp, but this is much better.

Thanks

Wow, thank you!

@@mrpete222 Let me guess; Your ancestors are German? Something to be very proud of if they are

Yes, I'll have to make one also. I didn't know about the Rose Index until now, but what a useful tool it will be. BTW, Loctite will set up in less than ten minutes with a little heat from a hair dryer and if already set up, about 200 degrees from a torch will loosen the bond to allow the part to be removed.

Seems like it would be handy to have an indexer to make one.

Very good tip!

Why not just rotate the shaft and use your square on the edges of the groove you just cut.

@@madjack3314 that would work as well.

Thanks

Sandy. Rotary Broach??? Did you mean a trepanning tool?

@@THEJR-of5tf Nope. A trepanning tool would still leave you with a round hole. This Old Tony has a video on what I'm talking about: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/bF1km4aOo2yox4k.html

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks

No, that's a square hole in a round peg!

Round peg in square hole works better than square peg in round hole. ;D

I practice broaching with my wife for many years now. Not nearly as often as earlier on.

@@RRaucina so she has a square hole now?

@@mgabrielle2343 Round peg in a square hole

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