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"Wow, this video is a game-changer! I never knew sharpening drill bits could be this easy. The demonstration was clear and concise, making it accessible for beginners like me. Thanks for sharing this invaluable tip!"

Thank you, I like it. If you add another layer of tape underneath on the front that might help grind off the heel to allow the material behind the cutting edge. I try it when I have time.

Nope. That drill doesn’t cut it rubs. The method you are using works like a pencil sharpener and doesn’t allow you to clear the material behind the cutting edge which is rubbing while the edge does nothing. There should be two “strings” of swarf comminup through the web not that dust. You can google twist drill geometry(dormer, latrobe, butterfield) to get a true visual of what the geometry is. Polishing does nothing but potentially anneal the cutting edges. Finer abrasives generate heat quickly. Most pedestal grinders dedicated to this purpose run 60-80 grit. Wd is a light lubricant not a coolant. We keep a vessel of plain old water on the bench grinder. Quench the drill before it turns colour. Centre punch where you want the centre of the hole in the material. Its the chisel edge that causes you drill to walk. Its a common practice to relieve the chisel edge when drilling by hand in order reduce cutting pressure. Cutting tool geometry is a real science. While you put good effort into this. The set up lacks the basics to make the tool cut properly. Its easier offhand but you need to practice to get the hang of it. Cheers. Great effort!

Good video but in my shop I always need to sharpen small buts like 1/8 to 1/4 and these big bits are a piece of cake to sharpen~!!