I want to work in the electricity business

@@kaykay037 Could you please help me?

Dear, how can i contact with you, do you have wechat? You can add me😘

Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me

@Archer Kayson Instablaster :)

I just learned this the hard way...........oops.

Do you have regulations for fire rated recessed ceiling lights?

@@weeeeehhhhh All depends on the local area and the type of building. Sparkys go by the national electric code (NEC) that is part of the national fire protection association (NFPA). At the end of the day the local code enforcement has to adopt it and enforce it. A "good" electrician will at least do the minimum the NEC calls for. There are some areas that some of us might think are not enough so we will do more.

@@user-neo71665 Do you have a tip for getting them out though? Our electricians installed them but one of the lights is set to the wrong temperature and it's driving me nuts. But alas, not easy to get out and I just finished repairing/painting the ceiling before I noticed the temp issue.

@@jemmabarls it all depends on the mounting style. Without seeing it or even knowing I have dealt with the style before I can't say.

that dust bowl is amazing!

Forbidden pancake mix

🎶Boots & pants🎶

I'm actually living with that uneducated decision as we speak. smh Good advice, Allan! Hindsight is 2020

Staying alive, staying alive…

Ohh man. I have this issue. It's super annoying!

The rule of thumb is 5 feet from the edge of the blade

This is what I am also wondering. I have existing lights and want to add more

@@sandymiller6467 We just did them in my kitchen. Super easy. A. Buy the right size gage wire. (Either 12 or 14) my white wire was 14(smaller of the two 1. Turn breaker power off to lights in that room 2. Go to wire. Cut it and snip some off the ends to feed wires into the lil wire connectors that come with the light (in the lil box. They are awesome and super easy) match colors. 3. Cut a new piece of wire (the length youll need to reach next light whole) fray it and go from first box to second box. 4. Repeat until done 5. Turn power back on and enjoy! I got a pen that checks current just to be sure (klein brand if i remember)

@@romondoalexander8851would it be easiest to connect an existing ceiling fan at the end of the circuit?

Repent to Jesus Christ “Everyone who competes in the games goes into strict training. They do it to get a crown that will not last, but we do it to get a crown that will last forever.” ‭‭1 Corinthians‬ ‭9:25‬ ‭NIV‬‬

Thanks for that!!

@@Grumpyskater or if you chuck has a torque setting try turning it down so if it do hook, it don't knock your teeth out.

that would be heavenly!

People already don't want to pay electricians. Imagine the extra cost labeling every little wire into a diagram. And where it's running throughout the house. Builders would never hire someone like that. Builders use the cheapest guy for profits

I’ve been making one for my house because nothing matched the panel!

@@johnhorning2506 ikr... I've never seen one that was actually accurate

I know enough to be dangerous 😀

I thought he was keeping the 14-3 to the outlet and just splicing in 14-2 to run to the other lights.

yes. I would have cut the 14/3 about half way between the first light and second light. Then I would have used 14-3 between the two lights on that side and taken the other half of the run to the outlet and just abandon the red and replace the outlet with a non-broken outlet. Then I would have just run 14/2 to the other two lights. If the boxes for the wafer lights didn't have enough space for all the connections, I would have put a regular jbox up there. And I would have connected it with wire nuts, not those push-in connectors.

14-3 🤦‍♂️🤣🤣

@@godofwar4271 ?

@@marist89 Yep that is the thing to do. Kind of fixed one problem and created a new one. Would of put a pancake box in for the fan why I was at it as well.

20 amp outlet XD damn

What Kelvin (K) is recommended for other areas like a) kitchens b) living room and bedrooms and c) hallways? Aside from a specific use like watching a movie or something, I strongly dislike 2700K as an always-on temperature - it feels too dim and 70's looking to me.

@@progression_decibel 3k is pretty typical, 4k is good for bathrooms as its a much whiter light. We never install 2700k unless ppl ask for it, its way too dim

It’s personal preference as well, we have 2700 throughout our house and love it, feels cozier to us.

good to hear! Hoping this will last the life of my house (our at least the life I'm here)

Repent to Jesus Christ “Everyone who competes in the games goes into strict training. They do it to get a crown that will not last, but we do it to get a crown that will last forever.” ‭‭1 Corinthians‬ ‭9:25‬ ‭NIV‬‬ h

@@jesusislord6545 WTF?

@@jesusislord6545 can you please don’t bring Bible quote into something that has nothing to do with salvation, what you are doing is making people stay away from believing who Jesus really is. There is a time and place for it, Religion is pushing away people from the truth of the work of the cross, the love that forgives all sins and from salvation for a new life in Jesus Christ. FYI I am a believer and follower of Jesus. Be blessed!

​@@jesusislord6545get lost

We've been installing them for 6 years now. If a client wants the traditional cans, they have to request them.

Thanks, Jeff! Definitely used your video as guidance and running the drill backwards was such an awesome tip I wanted to pass it on 💪💪

See Jeff wealth of info. The DIY encyclopaedia

The Legend himself.

😉

Jeff is here guys 😅😅

I'm not sure I understand. Where would the boxes go?

Glad it was helpful!

I replaced all of the existing pots lights with these and I have installed several where none existed. I love these lights.

yes, perfect situation to use them in!

Most 2 story houses are not constructed like this, and he didn't show that. Most of the time in a 2 story house, you would not be able to do this so easily on the 1st floor ceiling, because you have joists that you'd have to drill through to get wire between the lights (there's a room above that, and the floor of that room is on the top of the joists. The ceiling of the first floor is directly in the bottom of those same joists and they are solid). That means you would have to cut holes in the ceiling on each side of every joist so that you can drill each them and be able to pass the wire through to the next light in st least one direction coming from the first light that is powered from the switch. You'd have a ton of holes to patch and paint in the ceiling (and possibly re-texture and blend in, if there's a ceiling texture). Plus the two holes you cut, that he showed, to get the wire from the switch through the top plate of the wall to get into the joist space).

You are the first one to correctly explain how this should have been done.

@@frankgiardina4877 normally I just yell at my phone instead of commenting...

What dimmer did you use?

@@barsa901 this is the exact name on Amazon from my order, but they come in 2-packs, just giving you what I got. Lutron DVWCL-153PH-2-WH Diva 150-Watt Single Pole/3-Way LED/CFL Dimmer with Wallplate (2 Pack), White

Agreed. Wafers are really only useful for closets. A proper can with a good reflector is much more enjoyable. That glare would drive me nuts, especially for eyeglass wearers.

I'm really good at putting in old work boxes with "battle ships" (the thin F-shaped straps you put on the outside of the box to apply counter pressure to keep the box in place.). 70 is a LOT of lights!!

Yeah, that's a great tip. Since my ceiling was smooth I felt like removing the crown would be a bigger pain (remove, reinstall, caulk, paint) so I would have gone below it

@@Fixthisbuildthat ...I realize I said ‘you’ and ‘your’ but It was really a tip to your other viewers that may have an older home with other challenges.

I've HAD to do this many times. It's much faster than repairing drywall.

I don't believe mudding and patching is that hard, plus you can sand it and try, try again 🤭

Does the the wafer LED lights can become burnt out light or do it need some resinstalling the lights after a couple of years?

@@marcmarcmarc681 They are LED so should last 30000+ hours depending on the light. I don't know if just the wafer portion can be replaced or if the whole thing needs replaced but it would be quite awhile before needing to be replaced.

Thank you so much brother

He definitely could've still used that receptical if he junctioned his wires right. Electrician also💁‍♂️

Could you not have just added a new switch for the recessed lights and powered it off the existing outlet switch, and just left the outlet switch as is ?

@@stevenmorris2293 I'm thinking, yes, and this is what I would have done.

All he did need to do is cut the 14/3 and put both ends in the first recess junction box. If the black wire is constant her splice both of the on the 14/3 send constant power to the outlet and the red wire coming from the switch becomes the switch leg for the lights. From there he daisy chain to feed the rest of the lights. So first light you gonna have 3 romex going in the junction box. Electrician here

That's kinda pricey considering the actual wafer light these days is around 20 bucks

How do i know of the dimmer is compatible?

@@bobloblaw7649 The Dimmer will state it is either for LED lights or for incandescent lights.

@@bobloblaw7649 the company that makes the dimmer switch will have a list of compatible bulbs. Either in the instructions or on their website.

Will the voltage tester beep if it encounters metal spiral clad cable?

@@andrewmckinlay2964 no, on the metal cable itself but yes at the electrical box where the individual wire conductors are exposed outside the metal spiral cable. In other words, the metal spiral cable shields the individual wires from being detected whereas the plastic jacket around the wire in “Romex” wire allows the wires to be detected by the non-voltage detector anywhere along the live cable.

Although outlets are inexpensive, you could have just added a jumper wire. I don't know your specific situation so I can't give more details as there are several ways that the outlet circuit can be wired. I don't mean the outlet being wired, I mean the box that the outlet in question is attached to.

hahaha, no doubt, Steve!

Thanks! Definitely changing out that outlet soon

lol, I'd love to see pics of you using an umbrella

@@Fixthisbuildthat it's not graceful, that's for sure.

totally agree. He messed up with cutting the wire at the attic and killed an outlet,plus leaving a wire hanging in the attic that could potentially be a fire hazard if someone puts power into it in the future. He coulve just got power for his lights from the outlet by putting new wires.

So how was he going to switch the lights on and off? He needed the red wire in the 14/3 that was coming from the switch and going to the receptacle.

@@guyzer6197 Why not add a box in the attic and branch off the red for hot for the new lights. Keep black as it is and get a new outlet that is bridged.

@@castroy1 you could, but there is no attic access.

@@guyzer6197 He can run a 14/2 from the switch box or switched outlet to the nearest light and tie the black from the new wire to the red in the box.

unfortunately I had to move the wire too far to hit the hole for the light. And you can't add a junction box covered in a ceiling. If the pig tails for the lights were longer that would have worked

@@Fixthisbuildthat hopefully they didn't staple the outlet wire. If it is not stapled, it could be used as a pull string to pull a new slightly longer 14/2 that you can join at the light instead of going all the way back to the switch box.

Sounds like you’ve done hardly any electrical work

Jeff is awesome, such a wealth of knowledge. I'm just cobbling it together as I go with help from guys like him :)

You can get one that's waterproof too and so you can use it pretty much anywhere.

Dang, that sounds awesome! I'll have to check it out. Didn't know they made ones that cheap

The ip67 water proof ones are a little more. The one I have was 35.

I have one that sends the signal via WiFi to an app on my phone. I think it was about $40. Works well.

Or just set a box, splice to the light with the red, and to the outlet with the black…

Exactly. I don't understand why the load side was discontinued. He could have just tapped in for the new lights and left the black to continue.

Romex is stapled. There is no chasing wires in residential.

great looking product

These are not same as older pot light where the beam angles would be of concern. These flat led lights basically disperse light in a very wide angle and fill the room much more evenly

@@paulgill7222 Good to know, thanks!

where would you have put the j-box? we are not allowed to hide them behind ceiling/wall. cheers

@@spydermcfly by using those recessed lights you have access and in New York, are allowed to put a jbox

Click on "Show More" just below the video and you'll see a link to it.

That's exactly what I was thinking as well! Either junction box it or add another wire!

So you are saying he could have splice 14-3 into 14-2 and connect those recessed lights to 14-2? That way his outlets are there and also got power for his recessed light?

@@hardikrana6403 Exactly. In the original existing 14-3 Romex, red wire (lighting) power comes from the switch and black wire (outlet) power is constant. Here is what I would have done: 1. Add an old work box in the ceiling. I would place it out of the way in the corner, closer to the existing wire. 2. Cut the existing wire so that one end (the wire coming up from the switch) can be pulled over to the light location as shown on the video and the other end (the wire continuing down to the outlets) can be pulled over to the new junction box. 3. Run a new section of 14-3 Romex between the light location and the junction box. 4. Run a new section of 14-2 Romex between the first light location and the next light location. 5. In the junction box, connect black to black, red to red, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. This will keep the existing power to the outlet so you can keep using it as a switched outlet or you can cap off the red wire in the outlet box and use a new outlet as shown in the video. You can place a blank plate over this junction box and paint it to match the ceiling. 6. In the light location, make the following connections inside the light's junction box. a. All ground wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture. b. All neutral wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture. c. Two red lighting power wires (input wire from switch & output wire to junction box) are connected to two black wires (one to the first light fixture and one to the 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture). Note that the black wires of the ceiling lights now carry the switched lighting power around to the light fixtures. d. Two black outlet power wires (input wire from switch, output wire to junction box) are connected together. DO NOT connect these wires to the lighting fixture or the wires leading out to the next fixture. These wires carry the outlet power back down to the original outlet so that it continues to function in the same way. In the video, it appears that he left the wire leading down to the outlet abandoned in the ceiling and removed the outlet entirely. His installation could be retrofitted by my method to restore power to that outlet, with or without the switched function.

@@chrisboyd4433 wow, thank you so much for taking time to explain this. Not related to this..We recently purchased a house. In most of the area builder provided pre wiring for ceiling fan. Today i was trying to install the ceiling fan and noticed that both red and black wires have constant power. They provided 2 switches, even if i turn the switch off those 2 wires still shows reading in power tester. Do you think its normal? Or they messed up there. I installed the fan and i can only control the fan/light by using the remote. Switch doesn’t do anything. Your input would be greatly appreciated.