Road to My FIRST V5? | Climbing Journey Ep. 21

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Aidan Uy

Aidan Uy

11 днів тому

Today I try some V4s and a V5. Will I climb my first V5?
#climbing #bouldering #beginners #beginner #new #rockclimbing #boulder #climb #newjersey #nj #gravityvault #hoboken

КОМЕНТАРІ: 9
@KyleBleisch
@KyleBleisch 9 днів тому
It's been fun following your climbing journey, especially because I am also just starting to get the hang of V4s and hoping to send a V5 soon.
@miataqc8763
@miataqc8763 9 днів тому
Keep grinding man! I got to v4s after maybe 4-5 months of climbing and plateaued for about 9 months until today. Started actually working on v5s instead of just getting better at v4s and got my first v5 today plus another v5! I don't consider myself a certain grade climber until I've done 3 of them so I can almost finally say I'm a v5 climber lol.
@aidanuy
@aidanuy 9 днів тому
Glad to hear that you've been enjoying the content! Awesome to hear that you're working on V4s and V5s. It feels like we're grinding these grades together 😊
@aidanuy
@aidanuy 9 днів тому
@@miataqc8763 Way to bust through that plateau! You tried out harder climbs and were rewarded for your bravery. You'll get that title of V5 climber any day now!! 💪
@jkel8319
@jkel8319 9 днів тому
Hey mate good progress man, nice work on the 5 :D how long ago was this filmed? I know your last episode was recorded a little while ago Since you don't really have a project on the go atm I'll just give the following advice - 4:25 After you get the left hand jug, maybe bringing your right foot up to the middle of the three holds on that left volume would put you in a better spot to make the big right hand move up 8:24 I read this as, left hand up first, lean your body weight under the left hold more, and then get your right heel up. And rather than have it 90 degrees to the hold like you put it, try and have it parallel/vertical with the hold more, similiar to how you have the left at 8:33 (but use the right) And with the orange V4 at 12:05, if you look at the route you will know your move near the top is for your right hand, which then indicates the move before it will probably be with your left hand. So at 12:55, instead of reaching your right hand to the hold and then fumbling with a match/swap of hands (which legitimately takes you 15 whole seconds to sort out, at a position where your arms are bent and under tension the entire time), you could probably have just bumped your left hand from the move before Also - the yellow at 9:00 with the hold skipping dyno, previous when talking about dynos i mentioned that taking one arm off, leaning it back and rotating your shoulder through the move on the way is a great way to generate extra momentum. I'd probably say giving this a go on this climb could be a great way to get that extra distance you need Would love to see any of these tips implemented in a future vid if you get the chance :D
@aidanuy
@aidanuy 9 днів тому
Thanks man, appreciate it! This video was filmed on April 8th. I did think about using the middle of the three holds, but I think it's a little too high. It was really hard to generate power from the legs and I felt like I was pushing myself too much to the right instead of up towards the next hold. Maybe I could have done it if I let go of my right hand and centered my weight on the right foot though. Unfortunately that climb is gone so I can't try it out 😭 It's really hard to tell on camera, but the overhang on the yellow makes the distance to the big hold huge. I think the left hold is too low with awkward feet on the start hold to do it that way. I think the left hold is just a red herring and meant to be a foothold. For dynos, I feel like it's generally easier to keep both hands on holds if they are jugs and high enough. Although I have found a few spots where I think taking my arm off for a dynamic move (not necessarily a full dyno) is helpful for generating momentum. I did an overhung green V5 yesterday with that move, so keep an eye out for that 😉 For the orange one, I definitely should have just bumped my left hand to the wall. In my head I wanted to try a dynamic move from the second to last hold but it was way too hard. I think left hand on the wall and then right hand to the last hold (maybe using the wall as an intermediate) is the best sequence
@jkel8319
@jkel8319 9 днів тому
@@aidanuy Absolutely mate, i've said it before and I'll say it again, but what you see on video is often so different to what the climb is like irl (i mean for one, its almost impossible to tell angle, let alone what the holds are like) Looking forward to the next ep mate, are you planning on catching the vids up pretty close to the time you're actually climbing? Or you gonna keep a few weeks between?
@aidanuy
@aidanuy 8 днів тому
@@jkel8319Yeah, cameras don't do climbs justice! I think I'll try to keep a few weeks in between as a buffer so I can keep releasing content if I go on vacation or something. But it's a tough decision since people like you can help me out with my projects! If only I could personally send you what I am currently working on haha
@jkel8319
@jkel8319 8 днів тому
@@aidanuy I’d be more than okay to give you my whatsapp if you want to give me the current climb you’re keen on? I’m over in australia
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