So in the freak storms of November water had got in more places than first imagined. Its starting to feel like a room now rather than a steel box, hopefully wont be to long till we start to dig a bit more out. SO SORRY this was late but we got there in the end. Subscribe if you haven't as nearly a Million Secret Garage fans.

Colin. You really need to add a sump hole to the underground garage design with corrugated pipe around the remainder of the walls to allow any water a path to a location when it can be managed. Collecting any water that comes in at a level lower than the steal base will allow you to add an automated ejector pump to keep the space dry.

**takes notes**

4:22 As a former elechicken- Yes. That is the *_ultimate_* earth/ground for electrical lol Though I would still run a proper ground rod, even deeper, just to ensure the metal box you're in doesn't end up holding/running a charge and biting you.

Dear Colin. May I tell you what I have learned about cellars and tunnels? 1) Never put anything directly on the floor! Raise it al least 1ft or put it into a sealed plastic container. 2) Do it like a submarine and separate the rooms and add a water barrier between them so water cannot creep from one room to the other. 3) You even might seal each iron bar rectangle on the floor and protect its filling from rot. 4) Why not add some sensors for each room? Detecting temperature, humidity and water would be nice. This will notify you so you can react when things get bad. 5) Maybe you even add pumps that can counter a water breach as a fun project (and connect them with the sensors). It surely is over-engineered but when you even have pressure tubes that should be easy. 6) Paint everything. Use paint even as a sealer. Keep it up! I'm digging it. :D

"A mop is conceding I've had a flood. Whereas this is merely... a spillage." Love the attitude there.

Colin, for your future peace of mind look into installing some moisture alarms in the floors. That way you can catch it early and potentially prevent any damage and understand immediately where it’s coming from. I live in FL and use the small battery powered ones so I know if my garage is flooding. It’s nice to not have to guess or worry and have an immediate alert whenever something happens instead of finding out when your tools are ruined or your stuff is all moldy/rusty…

"To all the electricians, look"😆 (Sweeping up)😂😂

even after years of watching you dig holes and weld steel, this is still by far my favorite upload of any week! never stop being you colin!

Colin, Cheap insurance would be to put a ground water sump pit in the corner somewhere out of the way. A automatic float switch turns it on if there's water intrusion in the tunnel. You might never need it, but if you did it would be there. Love the tunnel series, keep up the great videos! Wayne in USA

hey colin, hope you now have planned for a proper bulkhead door, how's your fire suppression happening? choke it out? there is quite a lot of wood, carpet, insulation that would give plenty of nasty consequences + if spred... a pump well with an oil separation system. just considering you plan to keep cars and inventions down there... love the project

i love the fact you are one of our own colin,by that i mean an eccentric brit. i mean that in the nicest possible sense too,can i assume this will be your forever home after the insane amount of work you have put in to this project,even so i would imagine it would add a lot to your house value...big fan,love the channel. keep up the cool content

Two things I would recommend to do at this point. One, set a pair of leak detector discs under the floor for future problem detection. Secondly, I would add a sump pump just inside the doorway. to the garage area. You should close or caulk the doorway into the tunnel into the garage. the pump will then catch any future influx of water. I hope you used marine-grade lumber for that floor. It will take water dripping in.

Hello colin, ventilation will help a lot at stopping moisture, also having wick holes, that have a wick sticking out to allow moisture to evaporate away. Also with dehumidifiers if you have them working in a closed area they work great, so at night curtain off section and in the morning itl be dry,next night move along to another closed section thank you, great vid. Greetings from cornwall where it's always damp!

Colin, you should make the floor in compartiments. Just weld some strip between the box section and the wall. And seal everything with silicone. If you have leakage it cant creep. And you keep the water within one section.

The amount of knowledgeable people in your comments section regardless of the problem your facing is mind blowing. So many incredibly smart and capable people all gathered to watch you and even lend some insight when they see a chance. So cool.

You should definitely treat the wet areas with some disinfectant to kill any possibilities of mold growth once you get mold spores growing in a confined space like that it will be a nightmare in the future when humidity rises. Also running an ozone machine will kill any mold spores. And You should invest in a battery-operated Shop-Vac it makes little water messes like that go very easy. Great work on the videos.

As a point on the risk of flooding in the tunnel Colin - I'd suggest where the car lift is going to be, or possibly by the entrance to the tunnel - add a 0.25x 0.25m x sump pit Maybe a small gutter trench across the tunnel entrance with a mesh border, falling off to the sump pit? You can then fit something like a Karcher submerible pump that has a built in float switch, and have it plumbed out to the drains It would give a perminant and easy to check solution

I recommend you source a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, to save on the paper tovels. You also might consider a Munthers adsorption de-humidifier which is simply the best for your type of application i.e your bunker

Ive been workin with concrete n masonary all my life. Everything u do looks spot on. One thing i do to try to combat cold joints between pours. There is a special bonding primer. U apply between pours..... we call it milk. Simple liquid. Spray on heavily let dry 24 hours. U good. Same stuff u use on concrete flooring float. Before appling tile etc all same stuff. Concrete stuff cheaper tho

Love your videos Colin! That being said 1. Where is your Wet-Vac Sir? 2. If you're still concerned about moisture/coondensate getting down your exhaust vent, reconfigure the end of your vent in a "U" configuration with open end pointing toward the ground. It shouldn't affect the CFM, keeps anything from dropping in. Thanks for the inspiration!

You should leave and exposed area (but with a 4 foot wall going below the opening) exposed with dirt and have some plants and a grow light. Maybe get some snake grass as well. It is one of the most efficient plants for making oxygen. It will help keep the air fresh.

If you ever sell your house, please just plasterboard over the hidden rooms/basements/tunnels and let some future owner discover your hidden labyrinth.

Furzey! That water under the floor, get some of them smart home water sensors and put them at different points along the sub floor, then watch when they get triggered - it’ll tell you where the water is coming from and when the water is building up without you taking ye olde floor up! 💃

as an electrician, your tunnel is also a perfect conduit for electricity. since this is underground and could get flooded, you should have raised those outlets. also, use boxes for outlets that have rubber gasket around it, with ip65 protection. all cables that are showing need to be protected with plastic pipes, there are bendy and stiff ones (english is not my first language so i dont know technical terms for it), because if object falls on it it may touch the metal and then youll have a human sized electrical bug lamp instead tunnel. you should put flood sensors around your tunnel, they are basically 2 metal rods that get short circuited when they get in contact with water, and some hub or something that will collect all their data.

Delays in projects are REALLY frustrating and really normal. Good on you for investigating properly and recovering well.

Since the water has been there for months maybe add some DIY water sensors to get "notified" when and where it happens. Simplest could be 2 pieces of exposed wire on maybe a piece of super thin tape to be as close to the floor as possible, going to an LED and a battery, scattered over the various sections.... or maybe there's more reliable ways to do it? Maybe something that covers an entire line of floor so you know if water passed that line or not.

Yes! It is a big earth rod. Make sure you do bond it back to your main earth terminal, as the whole thing is really an extraneous conducive part. Nice supplementary earth electrode for your installation 😃

Nice one Colin. On the subject of the electrics: the regulations call for equipotential bonding of any extraneous metalwork. In simple terms, any metal you can touch has to be at the same earth potential as the nearest source of power, which in your case will be your sockets. The fact that you have used metalclad sockets onto studs pretty much has that covered, so long as you link the earth terminals in the back boxes. As others have said, I don't like the look of the cable you have used, it may have a larger cross-section in real life, but it will be simple enough to perform some design calculations for the voltage drop, which will then lead you to the correct cable decision. You have mentioned insulation in the floor, make sure the cables are not in contact with it, or they will need up-sizing accordingly. Flexible cable for fixed installations is frowned upon, mainly because its' sheath offers very little mechanical protection, but as far as I can recall, it was not illegal in the 16th edition regs. which were the last ones I took.

Look into adding a keyway in between each concrete pour. It will help lock the floor to the wall, and the wall to the roof. This will eliminate any cold joints in the concrete and could help with water intrusion.

Good point, if left unchecked the moisture can build up pretty quick as with many structures if left unchecked! Humidity and moisture sensors placed on each area of the complex is infact not a bad idea which can be isolated in order to establish the source. Whether it's the build up of condensation in the air (or) whether or not infact water from the elements is seeping thru from above! But it's the wiring thru the ring mains thats worrying me! This all determines the choice of materials for the electrical trunking for the wiring, if plastic pvc and it's cracked due to the pressure of the concrete poured in pending on the wiring config then it can potentially act like a water hose alongside the AC cabling if it is solely the cause!

As a Carpenter, I REALLY APPRECIATE you chirping Sparkies whilst sweeping up wire trim. THANK YOU!!!!

Love the dig at sparkies not cleaning up!

Great job on the video Colin! Thanks for making it.

You have amazing energy Cole, keep it up, I’m eager to see future videos !

In Australia as a retired Electrican we have a rule of 300mm for general power, we can have skirting mounted outlets or floor mounted outlets under a reception desk or near a workstation etc. But skirting or floor mounted in wet areas, is a big fat NO. ! I would of put them at 300mm and used a IP65 Weatherproof outlet as an extra layer of protection. I imagine RCD Circuit Breakers are "compulsory" in England, is that Standard practise ? But hopfully when its completed you never see moisture like that again. Im loving this series, cant wait to see the Delorean rise out of the earth, a very "Back to the Future type scene" 😊 Great Work Colin 👏 👍 👌

As a guy that has just moved to Canada from the UK, I do not miss the cold of the UK winter. I was out shovelling snow in jeans and a t-shirt, thinking it was around 0c, wasn't until the wife came out calling me crazy because I didn't realise it was -14c. The cold here doesn't feel nearly as cold as back in the UK. The lowest I've been out in so far was -20c ish and it still didn't feel anything like -10c out in the UK countryside.

Congrats on 1.01 million subs. Your tunnel work is truly impressive, and the purevideo feature on the Ace Pro is absolutely mind-blowing!

Colin your enthusiasm is infectious... Brilliant!!!

@4:43 As I have worked in construction I could not stop laughing 😂😂😂

Colin, have you considered including little basins with buckets in strategic parts of your bunker, tunnel and garage-to-be? Not necessarily leading into the ground itself, but just little holes with buckets that other parts of the floor subtly slope down towards so that any future liquid-based issues produce a lot less mess. It would obviously be useless with a lot of flooding, but since your floors are so perfectly even, it ought to help immensely against puddles that slowly build up underneath your floor with you being none the wiser as the liquid will end up guiding itself towards a central catching area eventually. You could practically implement a dipstick style approach on your little catch basin buckets to find out if they'd gathered water on a regular basis, and easily diagnose such issues faster than by waiting several months to check out a flickering light like you did this time. (Of course, that implies you check whether those buckets collect water to begin with, but I think checking those once a week could just be a part of your cleaning schedule...)

1:24 He's not lying, got up to -5 the other day and it was shorts and T-shirt weather. Caught me a good tan

I love your music choices! Your closing song, EPIC!

Colin, the best attachment for your wet and dry Hoover is 6 - 8 inches of garden hose, wrap any tape at the mid point until it makes a tight fit in the Hoover pipe. Cut a fresh 45 on the end, Now you have a clean and dry finish evrytime.

Flood tracking suggestion: if you drip food coloring around the edges of each room, on top of metal bottom, you will have an easy time hunting in the future. Id suggest you use different colors for each room and leave the hall space without. In the future if you have a puddle of clear water you know it didnt come from ether room. If its red its come in the red room and now you know for sure. An intentional sump plus pump might also be a good idea long term. Its not like the weather is gonna get any less extreme in our lifetimes. Happy 1M!

Over here in the USA, when there is a basement that tends to flood, we put in sump pumps. Basically it is a submersible pump with a float on it and a permanent hose going out. I've seen where people take a 5gal bucket and put it in a hole they cut in the floor at a low point. This means any water that does get in, when it reaches enough to lift the float switch, will be pumped out automatically.

Ontairo canada hasn’t even had a winter much this year! Have a great day. Hope it warms up for you

COLIN! DRY IT OUT. Mold spores can sprout in 24 hours. Treat wood & hardporous materials with a misted botanical chemical like Benefect or go heavy with a diluted pine sol. Do your best to close off the wet area with 3-5 mil plastic walls and heavy duty green frog tape. Rent 2-3 heavy duty dehumidifiers and 1-2x porta-filter. Use a mold specific air filter. Add some air movers and create a negative pressure zone down there to speed up the process. Grab some extra tube & and route the dehu condensers to the back garden. Borrow a moisture meter or find a sponsor. Next, add a some moisture barriers and preventative treatments in there. You need a sump pump. An emergency trash pump up top with a long intake set in there could save your life. Also, look at permanent air filters/central air and the like. A panic button system or simple directional intercom/radios might be smart. Fire protection and CO alerts too.

Colin, word to the wise in the the Underground Garage put a sump to collect water if you ever have another leak, also with you parking your car in the garage, there is a risk of water getting in when the door is open, and doors do leak at times. a sump of 1 cu/m should suffice

Another Great Video Colin, Love the Stud Welder, And yes the frame is a great Earth, But Conrete can dry the Ground out, so can be a catch 22, but a good idea to connect your Earth on your Power Points to the outer wall so there is no potential difference. Loved watching the concrete pouir around the walls. Keep up the Great work. Gordon Australia

Your camera is very good quality nice choice! Subbed, and grats on 1m!

COLIN! Consider putting water sensor somewhere in floor garage/house bit Or just a spot glass in the floor If you ever have another leak you will be notified right away. Especially with the floor done in the future you might not notice otherwise

You can actually pour concrete at minus 5. In sweden we do that all the time, it´s an additive the concrete company puts in the stuff when they mix it, it stop it from freeze. Check with your company, we have a lot of different additives if you want to pour in subzero, under water, highten strenght, slow cure and so on. You gotta keep the time schedule. Keep up the good work, this is a once in a lifetime project!

You seeing all the architecture with that one earth wall is really growing on me. I know it’s not ideal for sealing, but man it looks good to see a bit of earth as an accent wall.

You were doing so well and have done so much, I thought you already have a sump and pump. As for sockets, Building Regs Colin.

Yes, that should be the ultimate ground. Many houses that have poured concrete foundations have rebar in them. It's become common practice to leave a piece of that rebar sticking out that becomes the ground for the house instead of having a ground rod. It's called Ufer ground. They're actually quite effective, often much better than a ground rod.

I want to thank you for initially teaching me about safety squints. I’m an electrician now and I use them daily. Thank you for keeping us safe!!

With your can-do attitude, we'd choose you for any DIY project 😎 Appreciate the Ace Pro tests!

I grew up in central Illinois, USA. My parents were 5'11 and 6'2 so for their 2nd house they elected to build a full-depth basement (not 6' height but a full 8' I think). As a caution they built at the top of a prairie hill at least 20 ft higher than some homes just 4 houses away. Despite this, the basement would flood after big rains. It just turns out that the water table prefers 6' over 8', sometimes. After years of blaming people for flushing tampons down the drain and other horseshit excuses, we added a below-basement sump pump and the sump was the actual solution it just pulled water from beneath the basement and dropped it 20' out in the back yard ...

Oh man, the first thing I thought of when I saw that water was mold. Might want to spray a mold inhibitor or a anti-microbial sealer on anything porous in there such as the wood. Having a mold outbreak would really suck in that confined space! Also, consider a sump or sealing up those steel subfloor beams with some silicone to contain the spread. Congrats on one million btw! This channel has quickly shot up to one of my favorites on UKposts.

Colin put some sealant in strategic places around the box tubes so that localized flooding stays contained in discrete areas, perhaps a couple of cheap flood sensors under the floor would be worthwhile. Highly suggest using Automotive Seam Sealer for this, its very tenaciously sticky and urethane based so it cures with moisture. It also remains pliable and slightly plastic after curing for decades. It's really good stuff. How cool is it that you had a real reason to buy one of those rebar tying guns!

I so enjoy this series. My most favorite of all You Tube! New Orleans- Louisiana, 🇺🇸

21:10 you are absolutely right,my hands are sweating thinking of that wall collapsing with you being in there alone

Colin's attitude is wonderful. Every episode. Very inspiring.

Love your videos bud. Keep them coming

With all that humidity and the cold weather, you should get a portable heat/ac (make sure it is the ones that have heat pump) I got a used one that a couple had a few months and said it did not cool enough, noticed the filters were not cleaned(looked like lent trap on clothes dryer) for $200 US. It cools, heats , and removes moisture out of my 400sqft. Tiny house and once it gets upto temp it maintains well and actually does not need to run much! It is Hisense and they are some that are supposed to be bigger and have dual hose ,but this one does great in 400sqft. And it removes moisture out of the air well, especially in heat mode. I think it will work well in your tunnel and help greatly with your moisture problem. If you do not fix the moisture problem before you insulate and add wood floor and carpet you will get a mold problem and that will be dangerous and could be deadly. And it will not belong before you have to suit up and mask and tear it all out ,and they may require a certified proffessional mold company to remove and certify it! I think you need to stop and wait until you get it completely cemented all around (dried in) and incoming water and moisture issue solved before installing any wood, because you will get mold faster ten you think and you will not be able to be in there without protection until all is removed and certified mold free! I mentioned the portable heat pump ac/with heat because in heat mode it removes moisture as a byproduct exstremely well also has an air dry mode! ** I would not have written all this if I was not 100% chance you will have an issue ,and that my suggestions would help! But if you do not think I am correct talk to proffesional mold removel workers or company!!! I am just trying to help , I love what you are doing , and only want to try to help you !

I absolutely lost it when he started cleaning up his electrical mess 😂😂😂

Mr F. Put those plug sockets and wires ½ way up the wall to give you some protection against floods. Also being a bit of an old chap & coffin dodger you won't have to bend down saving creaky ouchy sounds.

glad you found the water problem and cleared it

7:55 I work in a Ship yard its a quite simular structure xD and its very likely condensation! If you have a metal sheet wall without insulation you will always get condensation on the cold site of the plate (If the delta C° is high enough.)

Dude the degree to which you are thorough is truly commendable. Been watching since the beginning, and have sincerely enjoyed your work and commentary of said work. Your process is a joy to watch. Water and “flooding” sucks but it really showed me the level to which you will be thorough. Thank you Colin for this entertainment! *Carpenter in the cold north of Canada(receiving lots of rain).

In Canada, concrete gets poured at -5C. There are different formulations you can order depending on temperature. On hot days, they can put ice in to prevent it from setting up too quickly.

Congratulations on reaching 1M. Colin🎉🙏

I'm absolutely loving these videos

I'm from Minnesota where we get a lot of rain and water and every house has at least 1 sump pump to pump out any water that makes it under your foundation and will eventually seep through the concrete. they work amazing and i think it could solve your issue.

Need to put in some little bulkheads under your walkway mate. It will keep any future flooding from spreading and keep it localized.

With out drainage mitigation to the outside of the walls ,floor / water management and full tanking I would be very surprised if this didn't leak. High MPa concrete and additives although a good idea by themselves won't prevent moisture ingress. Geograpic location, topography also has great influence on this. But none the less your determination, enthusiasm and the cool style of your tunnels is worth the watch.

1.02M Subscribers! Yay! ❤🎉 Congratulations 🎈🎉🍾🎊

For your question on the earth connection, in the US we have moved over to "concrete encased electrodes" as the primary means of bonding to earth for new construction. We attach to a >20' (6 meter) piece of rebar encased in the foundation and connect the grounding conductor to that. An inspector comes out before concrete to verify the length of rebar you are using and how you've attached to it.

Colin its Colin from Canada. We use hot water for our concrete mix and pours in the winter.

I just freakin love the Colin Furze channel and now the new one one. If I could have an ⅛ of the talent you have, I'd be set. I can't wait to see the whole thing dug out. So freakin exciting, I can only imagine how excited you are, lol. Stay safe, bud.

20:43 "Every day... the garage give birth to a Furze!!" that had me in stitches.

Make sure it's bonded to your main earth terminal as the whole thing is arguably an extraneous conductive part. Just sweep the cable waste into a pile in the corner, someone else will get rid of it.

Lol at showing the electricians how to clean up they always leave a mess lol 😂

You could always use a shop-vac to pick up all that water. Maybe put some spray-foam at the junctions to help reduce the flow. Have you thought about drilling a holes and inserting a pumps to get rid of seepage? I realize most of it is coming from the opening, but long term, they might come in useful.

I hope this message finds you well! I've been a fan of your incredible projects for a long time, and I'm particularly excited about your underground garage expansion. I was brainstorming some ideas, and I thought it might be interesting to consider incorporating a dual water pumping system along with a humidity extraction and recycling system. Imagine having two independent water pumps that could be used for various purposes like toilets, kitchen, bathroom, and garden. Additionally, a humidity extraction system could recycle and repurpose the extracted water for these needs as well. This could not only enhance the sustainability of your underground space but also showcase some innovative water conservation methods to your audience. I believe your creativity and engineering skills would make this a fascinating addition to your project. Wishing you the best of luck with both your life and your exciting garage expansion project! Looking forward to seeing more amazing content from you.

The joke about the electricians cleaning up was spot on

He was so right about the cleanup or lack thereof when it comes to electricians. I Do my own work so I always clean up but whenever I find work that was done when the house was made its bits of wire stripping, short cut off wire, broken wire nuts, wire insulation and anything else that was not worth putting in a pocket when the job was done.

Congrats from across the pond in Texas on the 1 million + subscriptions!!

I freaking love this channel!!!!!

Collin, saw the lady over there that has a rotating car port in her yard, so she can drive in, turn around and drive right out her gate. Time to incorporate that in your underground design! Pull in, go down, spin car 180, raise car up, drive away. Just like the Bat Cave!👍👍👍

@Colin, I’d recommend you check the thickness of the cable you’re using to run the sockets in the garage, as the length will effect your current carrying capacity (and how hot the cable gets under load). As well as the voltage drop over the length. As you may need thicker cable than what you already installed.

1 million subscribers, jolly good. Great project Colin, concreting is akin to icing on the cake, ref hard slog of digging 👍

Drain pipe around the foundation leading to a sump drain would do wonders for your water management. An automatic sump pump could then eject the water when needed.

@04:24 I guess you have to splice the join the earth rod and connect it to the metal “bunker” shell. If you don’t it mite give you a shock because possibly potential difference.

Colin, obvs a big long time fan and all of your videos and editing is top notch. The cadence of your commentary is so natural to camera. Even watched the entirety of your sponsor spot coz it was so matter of fact and not just a plug. Keep up the awesome content.

1.01 M Subscribers! Brilliant. Well done Colin.

Those black plastic chairs you used to keep the Rebar away from the wall you should also use those to separate the mats from each other. Love the project!

Underground swimming pool! You've gotta make that happen Col!

Colin these less edited videos are just as good as the main channel for tunnel updates. Us youtube consumers are addicts and we just want MORE content as FAST as possible. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming! We will literally take any footage you have no matter how "mundane" or "raw" you think it might be, we love it. Thrilled with the tunnel progress and can't wait to see more! Hopefully the weather improves to make your life a little easier :)