+monosurge I simply must take the time to applaud your comment! Bravo!

+monosurge I have to also say... probably the most constructive comment on this video and no bullshit ego or douchebaggery.

+Nathan Kopilec Simple words from a simple man.

+Michael Snyder Must have struck a chord with you.. But I wasn't in any way implicitly singling you out with respect to "douchebaggery". I happen to own a company which develops automation equipment, motion control equipment, and tooling. I hold multiple degrees in mechanical, electrical, and controls engineering, and have been studying synthetic chemistry for quite a few years. If that makes me simple, I hope the rest of the world follows suit. There's also nothing I hate more in the world than the many pricks who profess some grand possession of knowledge, but are either unwilling to share it or are unable to do so without being a prick. I didn't need the help from the video.. I just happened to watch it, but I appreciate people who offer help and experience in a constructive manner. Those who are simple can be taught. Those who bathe in their own ego are hopeless.

+Nathan Kopilec Very well said! The most insecure dogs, bark the loudest.

i know im randomly asking but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I love any help you can give me!

@Santiago Edwin Instablaster =)

@Kamdyn Brock thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Kamdyn Brock It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much you saved my ass !

@Santiago Edwin you are welcome =)

Like that ukposts.info/have/v-deo/sqKCZnuub6t812w.html

He tagged the ic to the board by two legs first so that he could melt the solder paste on one side of the ic at a time without it going out of alignment. That way he didn't have to use a massive nozzle on the hot air gun and heat the whole ic to 200+ degrees C. And by the way Americans, we British correctly pronounce the word solder not sodder! hehe!

+Dan Davenport Hi Dan, go to dictionary.cambridge.org/us/pronunciation/english/solder. In America Solder is pronounced differently than in England, just depends on where you were brought up. Either way is correct.

+Gerald Godbee So...according to how I hear that...in England they hold things together with soda. ;-)

The American pronunciation seems to have a silent L. The way the English pronounce it I guess it should be spelt soleder. A lot of American pronunciations are much more consistent than English ones. I don't think we are more correct really I just think it sounds funny so I pointed it out.

Anderson D you probably didn't watch the whole video.

+Colin Riley just hold your breath while soldering.

What size paste did you use in this video ?

corisco tupi The smoke you are seeing in this video is from the solder paste. The parts are not getting as hot as you think they are.

+corisco tupi I used to wonder about that too, but the boards go through an oven when they are soldered at the factory.

My stress levels went up and my dog started to bark when he missed the pads, created a bunch of bridges and had to resolder the first IC. I think because he doesn't have opposable thumbs himself and can't use tools it makes him angry to see humans use them inefficiently.

Funny ;) I almost never use paste anymore since I invested in a gullwing tip for my soldering iron. Got the first experience with such a tip at work. I knew how to use such tips, so when I used it how I should, I got this strong feeling like 'why on earth didn't I get myself one sooner!?' I can get LED's resistors and capacitors done quicker with a gullwing tip than with paste and hot air, as you just don't need the paste and wait for the hot air to heat up everything to the point the tin liquifies (and, having recently acquired my IPC certification on soldering (never knew you could have a 5-day, mostly theoretical training on that subject...) it's good practice to have a first round of heat at lower temperature, to get the solvents to evaporate before heating up to the point where the tin turns into a liquid.

How do you pre-heat?

@michelfrance75 Do just preheat only the board or the chip and other components too?

@@bleak0218Pre-heating is not thát important in some cases and this is probably one of them. Preheating is usually only done/necessary when a part needs to removed or soldered and the PCB features a few very heavy grond planes, dissipating a lot of heat from the pads that are to be heated for desoldering, rework or soldering. Ceramic capacitors also tend to be prone to risks of thermal stress and can require pre-heating (look up the manufacturers' datasheet on this). But how bad it can get and how long it will take before failure occurs also depends on other factors: thermal stress AFTER soldering and during intended use of the assembly also greatly affects overall lifetime. As with everything, there are standards that give some indication on expected lifetime when parts are stressed beyond their stated limits. Especially ceramic capacitors and them being prone to the risks of thermal stress is why FT-types (Flexible Termination) types are becoming ever more common. Even in small sizes, manufacturers found a way to incorporate a flexible barrier between the actual outside-terminal and inner layers, so it is far less prone to problems caused by thermal stress. Ofcourse, these are more expensive, but can seriously impact reliability. If you want to preheat, you usually pre-heat the area of a board where you will be reworking, removing or soldering components. Don't restrict heat to a small area, you want to avoid thermal stress to the PCB and the parts being blasted with hot air. But to be honest, I would forget about soldering these parts by hot air and just use a gull wing tip in a soldering iron and flux instead. The flux takes care of the wetting of the solder, the gull wing tip retains a small amount of solder in the hollow section and by dragging it along the pins of an IC or capacitor or other component, the cleaning action of the flux will make the solder want to get to the pad and component. But surface-tension of the solder inside the hollow cup of the tip will also make sure that exactly the right amount of solder is left on the connection. You can do complex fine-pitch IC's in just 10 seconds once you get the hang of drag soldering with a gull wing tip and once you've used one for the first time (and you have used a normal tipped iron before) you will wonder why you didn't buy such a tip earlier...

+Alexandre Kandalintsev No such thing as a "dry joint", ,"cold joint" yes. Good technique whether at work or at home, always trumps shitty poor quality that can render your "repaired" electronics useless. I was a hobbyist first and when I started working professionally in electronics I had to unlearn a lot of the " bad' habits" that were passed down to me by other hobbyists. I was encouraged to try things my way to see the results then try it my mentors way to see the difference. Much of what I learned on the job, I applied as a hobbyist. Industrial experience is never irrelevant. Whether reworking one piece or 1000 pieces, the process applied manually is still the same.

+Michael Snyder are you qualifying these joints as poor?

+Alexandre Kandalintsev I'm not qualifying any joints at all.

+Michael Snyder why are you ignoring the quality aspect? Only the "QC" can tell if the tech process good or not. To me, the visual inspection and the final result shows this guy knows what he is doing. Anyway, I believe skills are by far the most contributing factor to the quality. You can make bad joints even with good chemicals and equipment. Or you can do a good job even if "something is not right".

Good tools are half the job.

Yes please!

@@johnacove Brand of soldering paste and that pen thank you

yeah you could also get a mylar stencil.

I removed bottom screws from mine and it still makes the same sound. I use cheapo Yihua 852D+. I am not really bothered by this.

This is the slow, manual, one-component-at-a-time method. Industry uses robots for "Pick-and-Place," then "Wave Solder" to solder the whole board in a few seconds. By the way, people that specialize in operating Pick and Place and Wave Solder machines don't make a lot of money. So, the slow, manual method is interesting if you want to do Electronics as a hobby around the house. But better to keep working on that violin for a better chance at making big money.

Search for "silicone baking mat". You can get them for $10-$20 USD.

Ican't do this...because my hand will tremble

Never file solder point down, you will damage the finish and it will not accept solder and oxidize. Worst thing you can do to a new tip is file it, sand it or ground away the plating.

MicroRCFiend Nothing wrong with filing down a soldering tip, it's just a lump of copper, the thing you have to remember is to file it cold, then wrap solder round the tip you have just filed, then as the iron heats up, it will melt the solder that you wrapped round it , coating the tip with solder before it gets hot enough to oxidise the tip

The solder sticks to the coating, if you file the coating away the solder will not stick. I have done it several times. I would love to see a tutorial of the technique you speak off or any reference to it online I presume you can point me to?

@@TheDeadlyVideo if you need to file a tip then it is the wrong tip.

Electronics does not pay exceptionally well, but it would depend on where you live and if you are able to catch a big break. I have been playing with electronics since I was about 12 (29 years old) Currently I am a partner in one business and own another and I can tell you that it is tough as many others in the business may tell you as well when they go on their own. Overall if you are able to deal with stress, potentially long hours, and some major financial instability for at least a couple years of starting up you will do fine. It can be a real cutthroat business and the competition is only getting higher. Granted I am dealing in all the aspects of electronics from the design phase to the sale of the product through one company and am doing repairs with the other. Each having their own set of challenges. If you are looking to repair electronics as a business/side job, determine first what you want to repair. Industrial electronics, consumer goods, cables, etc. You could just pick and choose what you want to work on based on who calls or comes in the door. Sometimes working indirectly with your competitors can be an advantage. You may specialize in some areas where others have theirs, so it could work if everyone isn't too greedy. - Determine a shop rate that is based on your experience and those around you. If the average shop rate is $100/hr and you feel that your time doesn't cost that much or you are just doing it for a little extra cash you could charge what you feel your time is worth. For instance when I started off I was billing at $15/hr, now that I have an office space for the other business I charge $60/hr which is still about 35% less than my friends in the same industry. I also repair key fobs and remotes for a fixed fee which is less than shop rate, but there isn't much to bringing rubber keypads back to life, it is just tedious. - Start advertising and promoting your business. Word of mouth does very well on its own if you tell your friends and family about it often enough. You could attempt to repair dumpster/ electronics recycling depot finds and resell them, in turn you could indirectly advertise your repairs that way as well. A no-fix-no-fee model could make the difference on whether you get someones business or not. That is how I get a lot of my potential business. I do not charge for quotes either on my repairs. - Set-up a good warranty agreement ** Of course what I have written down is based on my findings and those around me, these may not all work for you. If you have any questions feel free to ask