Such a shame and very wasteful 🙁

Yyuyyuzuyyzuuu😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😮

Glad you enjoyed it. Just need more subscribers now!

@@BuyitFixit i shared you in twitter. :)

Thanks Tuju!

No problem. Glad you found it helpful and good luck with your repair!

Thank you kindly sir!

Thanks 👍 You might like the next part of this one called "no password no problem" (as after fixing it I needed to change a setting and the company who bought them out wouldn't give me a service password) so I had to take matters into my own hands.. 😂😂😂

Thanks 👍😂😂😂😂😂

You could really use any DC supply as long as it's not referenced to the grid right?

@@nielsdaemen yes 👍

I think I've burnt myself that many times over the years with a soldering iron that I'm more heat tolerant now 😂😂😂

Thanks. Yes the washing machine is hopefully going to be turned into a water turbine!

The guy I got it from didn't mention anything about lightning at the time. He said it just suddenly failed, but it's still a possibility.

Thanks Ian 👍

Thanks and yes agree. Stuff seems to be made cheap for either maximum profit or to undercut the competition I'd guess.

Thanks Chris 👍

Thanks 👍and nice. I've been trying to set up a system so we are pretty much off grid (still work in progress) but I changed the two Aurora for a 5kw victron with a 48v battery backup of about 25KWH, it's only generating about 1.8kwh each day for the last couple of days due to the weather and time of year.

@@BuyitFixit Wow impressive. Keep up the good work and loving the streams..

Thanks 👍

Thanks Steven. This seems a very common issue with these inverters so it may well pay to be proactive as you say. Units with the same fault seem quite common on Ebay. I actually bought another one and repaired that one too. It was just the relays on that one. The power supply was fine.

Crisis averted! My PVI-5000-OUTD-AU fitted Jan 2012 has more conventional semi-transparent cover cradle relays fitted, and the soldering looks fine. Also has WAGO connectors for the mains input. Don't know if it's newer or older than the unit you have.

One of the units I have is 2012 I think the other is slightly newer either 2013 or 2014.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, yes the washing machine motor I plan to make a water turbine with it someday...

@@BuyitFixit Good test for it then. I'd say it passed.

Thanks 👍The weird thing is the sunnyboy inverter I have does power up from the main, so I thought at the time these did as well. Missing grid might be one of the relay contacts or a dry joint. I'd be checking that first. I think there's a ladder of resistors next to the relays which sense the actual voltage.

​@@BuyitFixitThanks for your fast feedback, much appreciated. I did order the diods you replaced, just in case of, so if when opening the unit there is same kind of failure, I will be able to fix immediatly. Again, nice to have guys like you sharing experience on those inverters!

Thanks j s!

I've had a couple of requests to do some basic testing and fault finding. It's on my todo list.

I've been working on some video's of basic component testing which should be out today or tomorrow. I'm going to do a fault finding video on a switch mode PSU as part of that series which will be out shortly after those.

Hey Matt, is it a switch mode PSU? I remember you mentioning about power supplies and I've just repaired a caravan battery charger (essentially a 12v switch mode PSU). The video should be out the weekend, and I explain how it works etc so you may find it useful.

@@BuyitFixit I think it is a switching one, that produces various rail voltages from the 6vdc batteries. There is a small transformer that I guess is running at high frequency. I can cheat, with this repair, as I have just bought another working computer, and got a 'scope, so I will do some comparisons. 😊 Keep up the great content.

Thank you! Cheers👍

Thanks 👍

Thanks, yes Andy has replaced the relays before, but I don't think he had the problem on the PSU side which I repaired also. Fimer who took over from ABB offered no help at all as I needed the service password. I did another video called "no password, no problem" where I had to delve into the software and reverse engineer it, and wrote my own service password generator, and unlocked a load of Easter eggs in the software....

Thanks Andy! You were correct it was mounted in a loft from what I was told. I also looked at your channel and videos!

A fun fact... I used to be more into software and programming also reverse engineering hardware / software (I like to know what makes things tick). I needed the engineer code for the inverter and "tech support" were not forthcoming. I figured out the algo for the service section, and wrote a keygen. If you ever need a code, hit me up!

@@BuyitFixit Disconnect at full output is a relay killer. Hope you enjoy my videos, cheers

@@BuyitFixit That's grand, always keeping in touch with similar minds, thanks

@@TheInfoworks I also found some "easter eggs" in the Aurora Manager TL V3.13 software. When it's connected to an inverter, CTRL+SHIFT+T = Tetris, CTRL+SHIFT+P = Pong, CTRL+SHIFT+Z = Debug mode (shows bytes sent / recieved from the inverter). See picture: imgur.com/a/E6OcdyS

Hi, I would have to pull the thing apart to check, but on the video when I was replacing it, it looks like the cathode is pointing towards the edge of the PCB. Hope that helps.

Thanks 👍no I don't have an isolation transformer currently. I was reading an article about them which was quite interesting about and also explained the risks using one sound-au.com/articles/iso-xfmr.htm

Hi, the two diodes I replaced were SMBJ15A (the small rectangle one to the right hand side on the video) and STPS5H100B which was the one that looks a bit like a transistor (larger of the two at the left hand side on the video). I'd check to see if you have a short circuit first there like I did, as it may not be the same fault but display similar symptoms.

@@BuyitFixit Just checked and the small diode is short circuit and the relays have burnt up. Looks like it could be a common problem? The fault was no power and a fast clicking noise when the panels were active .The clicking noise stopped when the panels were isolated.I will order the parts and see what happens!.Once again thanks.

No problem. Glad you found the video useful.

Nice, well done on repairing yours too!

Quindi alimentando solo in ingresso 240 vac il display rimane in standby? Si accende solo quando stanno collegati i pannelli solari? Grazie

@@erosdipersio9231 The high frequency inverters have dc dc boost converter and the 12v (mine) are about 400v in Vbus point, from there another circuit with mosfet converts 400V dc to 230Vac. I use Vbus with an old lamp in series to the PV in of the fixed grid inverter to check it. I didn’t use PV panels.

Thanks 👍I didn't have one at the time, and you would need a one that does 120v or 200v DC which I don't think many do. The one I have has a maximum output of 30V at 10A.

@@BuyitFixit The DC high voltage stage on an ordinary inverter, may have been the easier option. But the contraption was very creative. :)

@TylerDurden-pk5km Thanks, the only problem was I needed isolated DC or you get a RISO fault, and the startup voltage on the inverter was set to 200V and I didn't have an isolation transformer.

@@BuyitFixit With an battery powered inverter, like the one there your fixed the fuses, you would have had an isolated supply and a voltage of around ~380V at the DC stage of the inverter (at the capacitors). And it would have even been double isolated because of the inverter transformers and the battery or isolated power supply you are running it of from. Integration would have been really simple - solder two wires to the capacitors - done. :) To make it more clear: Put the AC side of the solar inverter to the grid - and use the mobile inverter to generate the DC bus.

Ah yes, took me a bit to figure out what you meant, but you meant the HV DC side of the inverter. Good idea, I hadn't thought of that 👍

Hi Soyeb 👍I ordered mine from Ebay (UK). There was a seller selling a set of 4 for the purposes of repairing these. I'm not sure of your location but if you're in the UK ot might be worth having a look.

The relays only connect the AC side of the inverter, and have nothing to do with the DC side. Could you perhaps have not plugged something in properly? like the large ribbon cable? Or something else not plugged in correctly? solder blob on something? Damaged a component? I can't really think of much else that would cause that.

@@BuyitFixit All suggestions taken onboard.Even tough you stated that the relays switched the AC side of the inverter, I cleaned the contacts of the relays which had the bad solder joint with the pcb. Maybe a coincidence but the current returned to what was expected. Thanks again for your swift response. Bjorn_Brisbane_AU

Probably both. The contacts inside the relay will wear over time especially if any arcing occurs, but also the legs had burnt off a bit on a couple of them. May as well not take the chance and just replace them all as it's a more work to disconnect everything and strip it down again.

Thanks 👍unfortunately I'm about as further away as you can get. I'm in the UK.

I've seen kris harbour before. The washing machine I used to power the inverter actually has a pelton wheel on the other side as I was planning on using it as a water turbine like the guy who has been running his house for 15 years on one. I've got some solar panels coming next week and actually bought another faulty inverter from Ebay same as the one I got given. I fixed that one too but didn't do a video on it as it was just the relays and the video here already covered that.

There's an Omnik inverter sat in the corner of my room waiting for new relays. I've also a 10kW inverter to inspect too but the turn on voltage is over 500v DC. Not sure how to generate that.

I've replied to Andy on this video as he posted a comment, I've since found some interesting software and done some reverse engineering. Have a look at the comments I left above for the link / password. Might be of some use to you.

I'm trying to think from memory but I think it's fed from the DC supply, so no need for a rectifier.

That would explain why when connected to the mains there's no signs of life from them until there's some DC input. Thanks for the reply. @@BuyitFixit

Yes, it's a grid tied inverter to send solar power back to the grid.

Hello I have a 6kw abb inverter that has blown a few capacitors and a small light bulb internally, I tried to fix the problem myself but no success can you help me,if so I can send you picks of the problem area to see what you think ,or I can send the inverter to you to have a look ? Thanks

I'd be very careful as the voltage is DC and could easily kill, but you would just use a test meter on DC volts and see if there is voltage on the cables coming from the panels. I'd suspect that they would be fine. The area around the relays I patched with wire and it's been running fine since.

can i send you a photo of the burnt area with the relays removed as I am not sure where to patch in wires@@BuyitFixit

If it's the same unit as the one I repaired you should be able to see where I patched them on the video. They just follow the existing tracks on the board.

exactly the same area of one relay burnt out but have lost more of the board including the 2 pairs of line connections hidden under the relay, do these need to be reconnected@@BuyitFixit

I would think so, they wouldn't put them there for no reason. It's been a fair while since I looked at one.

Hmm Interesting I've not heard of such a device before. I'll have a look into that. I'm actually in the middle of reconfiguring my system to use batteries and a different inverter so I can hopefully go off grid at some point.

That's one I can definitely help you with. As I converted all my hot water system to include a pressure tank. Via a water diverter valve. So I can still use the combination boiler in winter. Then I use my solar diverter to heat the tank. We haven't paid to heat water for the last three summer periods. But the immersun power diverter has an habit of the cooling fan not working and then the unit overheats and blows. So I have wired a fan direct to both power outputs so it keeps cool

Hi, sorry I only do this as a hobby. Unfortunately in my experience solar companies just want to sell you new kit, and are not bothered about helping people repair equipment. I did a follow up video on this inverter where I needed to adjust a setting, and needed the service password. I emailed the company who took over from Aurora, and they said it's an old model, buy a new one! and wouldn't give the the password! I thought I'm not doing that after I've just repaired it, so I had to resort to reverse engineering their software and working out the passwords for myself 😂😂 I emailed them back to let them know, and that I'd be posting their responses on my channel. All of the emails are on the video called "no password no problem" if you want to have a look at the email's back and forward, and I also found some hidden stuff in the software (including some games they wrote).

It's just a transparent overlay of flames, and a different tranparent overlay of smoke added to the original image. I know it's slighty "click baity" but at the same time it's also like you say a recreation of what actually happened to it!

Same make and model as these ones? Would think something like a long line of resistors, a coil or opto-isolator would probably be used. If can give me a few more specifics I'll try and help.

@@BuyitFixit I'm glad I see your name on the Recessim channel. It was his video on 3v = 240v and your reminder of the long line of resistors that helps in indentifying the components on the Saj Sununo inverter I have. Mine has the four relays but they appear to be in series, 2 for live and 2 for neutral, all powered by a 4-gate AND with identical circuitry between the logic gate and relays. I'll see about putting the stills on my own channel for clarity

@@ianhelsbyservices Yes, I posted on the Recessim site, I used to do a bit of reverse engineering / repurposing stuff, although I haven't done so for quite a while now.

The relays are used to switch the mains power not the DC as I first thought when I opened it. There seems to be two for the live, and two for the neutral. I think it switches two of them, and then measures the voltage / frequency. Then it switches on the other two if everything is OK? I'm not 100% Either that or perhaps a safety feature in case of a fault. I've not really examined why they use the four relays.

@@BuyitFixit My repair swapping all 4 relays worked for a few hours then got an W003 grid fail message - grid voltage out of bounds. The grid voltage doesn't stir at all during the cycling (solid at 243V). I suspect a faulty new relay or solder joint. Any idea where to look?

Et non les contacts ne s' usent pas, pourquoi ??? parce qu' ils ne commutent jamais de courant, au moment de leurs enclenchement le courant est pratiquement a 0 ampère, idem a la coupure, le courant augmente après quant les panneaux montent en puissance.....

@@minxythemerciless its not your relays . it will be the control board . i have repaired around 60 of these . and it will be a FET on the control board . Also you dont need to add the wires as shown as the holes are plated through

@@chrismurphy7324 I replaced the relays with identical models after a big fight to desolder the old ones - my iron was just enough and a bigger iron would have helped. I had initial teething problems but after reworking everything it came good. The result is the unit has been working just fine for over a year now

Good question Christian. I think there is a problem with DC voltage getting to the earth of the unit. I'd possibly try measuring from the DC inputs to earth and see if theres any resistance reading, then possibly try removing components or isolating parts of the circuit until you narrow it down.

Thanks 🙂👍

You are correct! I've been into electronics since I was a child, worked in electronic repairs and software development, but moved to the country and became a farmer a couple of years ago. We mainly have sheep / horses / goats / chickens / ducks. I also like reverse engineering and re-purposing electronic devices.

@@BuyitFixit Do you focus on agriculture? I would expect animals are more stressful. Did you stop software development entirely or did you find a way to balance everything?

@@merkatorix I've kind of stopped software development for work. Although if I need to I would still do stuff. Like I built and internet connected incubator out of a old wine fridge. Designed the pcb and wrote the software for it. And recently I knocked up a key gen for the aurora inverter service password.

@@BuyitFixit Did you stop, because it would be to stressful to balance software engineering and agriculture? I heard of someone trying it, who just became depressed. It sounded like he didn't manage the software deadlines anymore, but he was a small farmer trying to sell his crops, plant them and to do software engineering and I suspect selling stuff just takes too much time at random time, which eats up all time to concentrate on software. Furthermore, I am still not sure, if his agricultural ambitions were viable from a business case. I mean, he had to sell his crops himself to have a chance at all. Or did you stop juts because you didn't like it as a job anymore? Getting into crops without a lot of experience, if would be a little ancious of pests eating my crop. Did you do a new training to grow stuff? I'm working as a software engineer myself and I wonder if there are ways to combine it with agriculture. However, I just have some basic experience with tilling ans was never in charge of pest control, yet.

@@merkatorix our land and area isn't the type to grow crops. We are only a small sheep farm. Probably around 50 head of sheep. I just wanted a change and to be out in the country away from civilisation when the SHTF.

Have you just got this unit? I had similar with one I bought off Ebay and had to adjust a setting to get it working properly. Or was the unit working fine then you got the E031?

@@BuyitFixit I've had the unit for 10 years since new. Only one relay had heating marks but I swapped all of them. I did notice the PCB was warped under the overheated relay so I'll revisit with lashings of copper wire bridges in case of a hairline crack.

The voltage sense is done via 4 resistors at the bottom right hand side, they are quite high values (10m ohms i think) but wired as two pairs in series so 20m. One pair is L and one pair is N these then go through the ribbon cable to the CPU board. But I'd think that those are working correctly if it's showing the correct values. Have you made sure the large ribbon cable is seated properly and hasn't been nipped on re-assembly? The only other thing could be one of the relays isn't being activated (are they all clicking?) or getting power (damaged track?) faulty relay? that's all I can think off the top of my head... Does the fault happen Immediately or is it intermittent? Like it works for a few minutes then faults?

@@BuyitFixit The problem now seems fixed. I heard a click in the main switchboard when it failed, so I swapped out the relevant single phase breaker and tightened some connections on the upstream three phase breaker. So far so good.

Great news! Glad you got it sorted!

Sounds strange. If nothing is on the display I'd check the power supply area like on the one I repaired. That supplies the main computer board with power.

@@BuyitFixit Thanks! I've just removed and opened up the inverter, and as expected I do have some black marks around the two white Zettler relays that sit closest to the power supply you've repaired. The other two relays look good. I've also checked the two diodes and I do have continuity as you've experienced. So I've ordered the parts (~£20) hopefully there isn't going to be anything else. Seeing so many of these inverters with same problem I imagine the manufacturer might feel ashamed of their design and help us fix them :))

Good luck with your repair. I would add some copper wire like I did to hopefully stop it happening again in the future 👍

@@BuyitFixit after a few failed attempts to remove the old diodes and braking some others around them I gave up. I just couldn't de-solder them like they were welded to the main board 😡 I even tried with 450 degrees on my solder gun tip just for fun. No idea what kind of soldering component did they use, there was no way to melt it. At least I tried... ☹

@Armadyllo That's a shame. I know components can get welded to the board when they blow. You could try some low melt solder. I've had good results with that as it mixes with the original solder drastically lowering its melting point.

Well, I've never came across one until then, and I did troubleshoot and I did repair it. I thought it might power the display from the AC side but I guess I was wrong. I don't know everything about every possible device out there. This is a grid tie inverter and does not output if mains is not present,it does not work in the same manner as a standard 12v to mains inverter that you connect a battery to. I then needed a service password to adjust a setting and the company said it was an old unit and buy a new one. So I then reverse engineered the software and wrote my own password generator anyone who has the same problem can download free of charge. (I did a video on that and put it in the video description). See the 'no password, no problem' video I did...

I don't think so. It's not something I have looked into.

Ciao, Non sono sicuro di cosa stai chiedendo con il relè mosfet?

@@BuyitFixit ho trovato il MOSFET che comanda uno dei relè.. rotto 👍

Unfortunately I didn't have a thermal camera at the time. I did however buy a broken one and repair it in another video 🙂

Hi, the parts to repair it are around £26 then postage would also be a fair amount as it's a quite heavy unit. I noticed there are people on ebay who charge around £90 for the repair.

Thanks wade. I had seen Andy's video, although his inverter repair didn't have the problem with the internal power supply, I think it was just the relays on his one.

I was thinking of doing a video on the basics of testing electronic components and using a multi meter, I shall do one soon!

I should have some video's of testing components etc out later today or tomorrow.

Unfortunately it's not something I can easily change. Most people in the UK can understand me fine. I've lived in a few different areas of the Northeast, and now live in the Northwest so not the same village as you say. Perhaps you are not from the UK?

@@BuyitFixit No, I'm just joking and yes, I'm not from U.K. Anyway, your instructions are great.

Thanks 😂😂😂Sometimes I get strange comments, and I'm not sure what they mean or if people are joking. I always try to be polite in my replies though 🙂👍

Hmm I didn't know that. Thanks for the tip 👍

Great Job Wade! I just checked out your pictures. Congratulations on repairing it! A couple of notes... You said you had trouble de-soldering, try adding some flux and fresh leaded solder first, although you do need a fairly hefty soldering iron for this job on the relays. Adding flux on re-soldering also helps greatly! The reason the relays fail is due to oxidisation of the solder at the point where they are soldered to the board. This is because there is usually a large current flowing through a small pin! The area around the pin heats up / cools down and it causes the solder to oxidise more quickly. I've seen this happen a lot over the years (common on things like TV power supplies or other electronics that deal with high current). Well done on your repair!