Next changing your oil in your car is gonna be called a "not blowing up your engine hack"

@@WayStedYouI’ve got a pushbike in the shed and I’ve never done this, heard or seen of it being done. It isn’t a common thing for the average pushbike owner to do.

@@OpticMoos Just cuz it isn't common doesn't mean it isn't basic. Most people will just live with squeaky brakes rather than go out of their way to properly maintain them.

@@DaniTheGunsmith that’s exactly my point! So it is actually a hack.

Calling it a hack makes it seem more appealing for people to do

BRO TELL ME ABOUT IT NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I RING MY BELL, SO FEW PEOPLE LEAVE. BUT WHEN I FUCKIN SWEAK MY BREAKS, THEY START PANICKIN AND LEAVIN LIKE YEAH FOCK YOU

Звук бензопилы на гудке тоже классный эффект даёт)

😂

Yeah, after I heard the sound, I wondered why people should waste resources and time. He is literally causing wear and tear.

lol

It could be useful in cities

@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 please think of the people living in these cities :( there were already enough noise without all those squeaky bikes :( I just heard another one by the time it took to write this comment ...

@@henryvalbuenabaez6915 Is*

​@@henryvalbuenabaez6915i just hang a bluetooth speaker on my handlebars and set the volume so u can hear it about 10 feet away while surrounded by loud vehicles. Classical music, metal, drum and bass, lets drivers who are blind to anything that isnt a car know im near.

I had a BMX with super squeaky brake once. It really announced my presence everywhere I went 😅

First you need work with vilinders while pads ar in. And then you can work with special metal tool.

@@thenuckinfoob01 Shimano pistons are finicky at best... And hack videos like this just make more work for bike mechanics (so maybe I shouldn't comment, that way I get more work 😉)

Been doing it for years this way, never had an issue. I pushed back maguras, hopes, shimanos and srams and never had a piston-related issue. Just gotta have a feel for it can't be forcing it too much.

@@godcorrupt I'd agree, if you know what you're doing. But these "hack" videos are usually aimed at less than competent mechanics...😉

Plastic levers rather than metal is going to prevent huge problems. That was the first thing that caught my eye. Also, mine were contaminated and new pads worked for me.

Lmfao that first hill is always fun

Complete f00l is like applying oil to the brakes. Even when they work because of FRICTION!

@@SniperSnake50BMG lmfao 🤣 the joke went right over your head

@@grxygxds yeah. There was other dude that said he put grace to the rotors...

I did it… such a dumb…

so WD-40 would have the same effect with less hassle then 😬

@@viktorbalogh8467Now THAT is a hack

Actually, the resonating is caused by dust that did not adhere to the disc surface. So clean the dust from the pads and discs with a clean cloth. That's all. No sand paper or blow dryer.

@@viktorbalogh8467You’re joking right?

If you get brake cleaner on the calipers or forks it can remove the paint and damage the protective finish. 30 seconds of work to pull the pads out to clean them. Or better yet just replace squeaking pads.

Yeah, I do that and it's flawless. Just warm a little and full power again.

Kansas hates you.

My laziness led me to believe this would work. Glad to hear that a professional agrees 😊. Thanks

That's a great way to glaze your brakes

Ahahahahah. NO

Probably depends on how much contaminant the pads absorbed. My results where mixed, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.

$5-10 bucks where you getting your pads? -edit: oh I see now cheap amazon knock offs

Why not just use rim breaks? I understand the benefits of discs on mountain bikes but I don’t see the need on road bikes.

Pro tech here too. This vid has some many red flags. 😂😂😂

Especially for this brakes model I also think that the new pads are the solution, they are cheap and easy to replace

Someone who thinks like I do 🤗

What did you use?

A cutter that slices a tiny slice off the edge probably ​@@aresorum

Or cleaned it

legit. did the same thing with my ebike and I was so happy the squeak was gone the first 3 times I tested it but as soon as I rode home and had to brake it was back 😭 I need to buy new pads I tried it for a while by going down the steepest hills i could find and by repeatedly doing a full on emergency brake while going fast and after like 45 minutes I noticed the squeak was gone, i can brake the bike to a stop without squeaking, but I still need new pads

This actually works well. I had a customer, who pumped his calipers full of grease to make them quieter. I took the challenge, torched the pads and rotor with a torch after degreasing. Bike stopped great after.

@@alexzbarazky3038 I've had mixed luck. I've done alcohol soaks, hit it with some flame, squeal out, sandpaper, brake cleaner, you name it. I've done it for customers and told them I wouldn't charge for the service and if the problem persists to come in for new ones. Some swear it worked and I'll see them on a trail or on the road and some people don't even make it out the door before they started screeching and honking.

​@@alexzbarazky3038the rotor is made of an anti-friction alloy and it deteriorates when overheated, so you need to be extremely careful when heating the rotor

😂

mine are so loud they even attract elephants in downtown! 🙀

i agree. copperpaste is the best.

This is a good point! I like to spin the wheel and move the sand paper in and out across the braking surface while it spins, it creates a criss-crossing wave type pattern. This is what we do with vehicle rotors when they've just been cut on a lathe.

LOL i thought at the end of the short they were still going to squeak. I have tried all this stuff and they end up making noise after soon after.... Now I just ride...

I'd try some silglyde for cars and see

@@cataplt I was waiting for it too 😂 missed opportunity

​@@cataplt depends on the pads and the level of contamination. My friend's shimano pads cleaned up just fine, my tektro pads didn't get all that much better

@@cataplt Thing is, the pads have to coat there residue over the brake discs to work. There cant be any contamination on the discs of other things. If the brake pads have been coated in...idk mineral oil from the brake system there toast. Other then that follow the steps below. Go in gear 1 Pedal while braking pretty hard. You feel the bike isn't really slowing down a lot but it makes a ton of noise. Keep going. Let slowly loose of the brake while still in motion every 30 sec or so, for few seconds and break again (to let the disc cool a little). Go brake on and now you should feel the bike slowing down a little more while still making noise. Press the break a little less. Now you should feel it getting stronger and stronger and letting more loose of the brake. When the noise is pretty much gone. Bike around do this thing above like 3 times between some cycling around and the noise should be gone.

that's easy fixed with some fine clay in water, just coat the rotor in a thin coat & the pads bed in instantly. I prefer the yellow clay that we have in some of the hilly parts of Yorkshire, but any of the finer natural boulder clays should do it.

​@@AnthonyIlstonJoneswhat?

You mean "bed" them in, there is no break in for brakes.

@@Trox2018You knew exactly what they meant.

​@@Trox2018lmao it's the same thing!

"works every time".. and this is the problem, that it repatadly is coming back :) I dont care about the sound anymore.. too much work for something you get back within a few rides.

Why do you need to heat up the pads?

​@@bronsonstephens5799 you can only get the oils in the pads to go away by burning them. you need the pads to get hot enough to ignite the oil that's contaminating them.

@@bronsonstephens5799 it is not to burn up residue, but new pads have to be "burned in" so they wont squeak so soon. This creates something like a "matching pattern" on both the pad and rotor. If sand and contamination ruins this, noise starts. If you do not "ride in" the pads, you will brake hard 1-2 times and your brakes will start squeaking again. Some shops have machine for this to do it in a minute. Good videos on youtube how it is done "manually" on a hill or if you have some legs, on the flat.

@@oranjidoh okay cool. Fascinating. Thanks for the info!

Thanks to people like you i have a job, most mechanics likewise

​@@radekmaj5875и у врачей

Just wait till you see the work you have to put in to properly bed these brakes

@@mikehuang1369 He didn't hear you. He couldn't stop.

​@@JB50713 he hit a tree down the hill

Waste of money but ok

Even new brakes can squeak. It’s good practice to clean rotors and degrease pads before installation, and that’s half of what was done in this video. Doesn’t hurt to surface polish/sand the rotors and pads to remove any rough spots from handling, shipping, manufacture imperfections/poor tolerances.

You should be doing this even with new brakes. It's called maintaince. Nothing is immortal.

Guy also resurfaced the pads and cross-hatched the rotor. It’s a good tip. Takes the glazing off the pads and rotor which is what causes the squeak. I’ve done it on a wet clutch on my race bike when I was having issues with slipping and it cleared that issue right up. Grabs like nobodies business

Didn't you mean... Groundbraking? Yeah my jokes suck

Won't the discs rust now he's scratched them? I get 'tea staining' on smooth metal

Just use old breakpads and then a screwdriver or something like that

We have a place in florida called the vortex. It has a decent downhill section and amazing trails

The jumps downhill broke my nose even with a full face helmet once

@@Psilomuscimol come to Colorado, where you can break everything else.

depends on the brake. BR-4770 and BR-RX400 have almost no clearance in them, so it's nearly impossible to get them to stop rubbing when new. they do get a bit better after being broken in.

@David to get all of the cleaner off.

I pass a torch across the pads. Takes 5 seconds. No cleaning solution. No sanding. No fuss. Easy peasy.

Bro I told my siblings to do some oiling on the chains and he put the oil in the calipers what should I do? Should I change the whole set?

@@IRIS.3111 The rotor can be cleaned off with solvent. For the brake pads, you'll need to remove them from the calipers, then using some pliers to hold them, cook off the contaminants with a propane torch.

@@lihtan thanks bro I will try it

Ничего подобного. Второй сезон катаю, все ок.

Exactly 🙄

и это не спасёт, скрип идёт от тормозной жидкости, надо перебирать колипер.

@@chopskates5980 причём тут жидкость в трубке к ротеру и колодкам? 🤦🤷

Господа, вы же в курсе, чем по сути является скрип колодок при контакте с тормозным диском? Причина появления этого звука одинакова как в автомобильных колодках, так и в велосипедных. Наберитесь терпения, сейчас будет очень нудное повествование... Контактные поверхности пары колодка-поршень это металл, причем на колодке этот металл имеет эмалевое покрытие, предотвращающее контакт с металлом поршня. При торможении колодка ложится на диск/ротор и при не плотном прилегании к нему начинает вибрировать, что в совокупности с износом(отсутствием) эмали на обратной стороне колодки приводит к микротрению в паре поршень-колодка. Слышимый скрип это результат трения металла о металл и лечится восстановлением термостойкой и износостойкой эмали либо нанесением термостйкой, консистентной смазки на обраную сторону колодки. Прокаливание и зачистка рабочей повехности колодок, как отчищение диска/ротора, делается для удаления загрязнений, что в свою очередь уменьшает дополнительный износ пары колодка-диск/ротор, что в свою очередь позволяет избежать износа диска/ротора, что позволяет сохранить пятно контакта колодки большим и стабильным, что позволяет избежать появление шумов при торможении. Всё😊

Like a magnetic breaking system. No need for friction

if you can afford calipers with ceramic pistons then you aren't the type of person who is watching a bike hack video lol, just saying.

@@NonLegitNation2 yes lol, those 4 pod xts are a nightmare to work on, as those pistons just break when you look at them... I think even the deores have ceramic if I'm not completely blind... I thought the 4 pod 6120 I have lying around have ceramic, but I'm not completely sure... And those are not really pricey.

And those shitty ceramic pistons even crack with the right tools, even with pads in, without pads and with plastic lever, they always crack... Doesn't matter what you do, you have to press them back in straight, if they go in just a little bit crooked, they are gonna break. Really annoying to get the shards out again, right mate? 😂

@@ironeinar Yeah, really annoying. in my case, I got a set of 8120s for free, so I didn't mind as much, but the shards were everywhere! the hardest part was getting the ceramic dust out of the fluid ports where the mineral oil would normally flow, a good bleed kit and an air compressor got the job done!

@@owenadair8893 yeah thats so annoying, im happy that I dont have to encounter this problem on my personal brakes, because I run Shigura, but my boss in the shop, who serviced hundrets of ceramic pistons still has problems not breaking the pistons while pushing them back in xD

or mis-alignment...

Yes, it will work good while it is in your service, but when your client will warm up pads while riding , pads will release grease that is hidden inside and noise and weakness will be back. Best way to solve this problem - buy new pads and clean rotor, if you can't do it try to put your old pads in a boiling water for a while.

Another pro tip: adjust your caliper so it doesn't move or bend the rotor when the handle is pressed. That's a big cause for brake noise. Also makes the lever have a more solid engagement feel instead of mush.

жиза кстати

@@DJSalih7722F that's a pretty good reply... Because then we know it won't work at all!

This is like the Alt+F4 joke, only even less funny...

Such a big brain method. Best way to care for your brakes is simply making them unusable

@@overtheatlasThe less you use them, the longer they last, so it's a good strategy. Besides using brakes just slows you down.

I just hold the break for a few seconds and the squeak goes away for a while

tbf a proper QR wouldnt close enough to interfere with the brake rotor spokes. It shouldnt really matter how its set up.

Honk like goose boy! 🤣

Es claro que sí

Why is it expensive to use a heat gun?

​@@mydearriley Expensive electricity, probably. ?

Acá en Argentina las pastillas de frenos de bicicleta son más caras que las de auto

Брат, приезжай к нам в Россию🙂

Valid point. Works for informing the rider behind as well.

A car's wheel bearings and brake pads are held in with a 'split pins' with no problems 😊

Yeah. Sure. A company that has been making brakes and most other bike components for decades with thousands of engineers - should learn from a guy on the internet. Actually the pin works fine. It's not doing much - it's not actually holding the pads against the braking force (as you'll notice, none of car brake pads have a hole for either a pin or a screw). The holding is done by caliper body. Some of earlier brakes - for instance, the well-famous Avid Juicy series (3, 5, 7, Carbon) - didn't have a pin or screw at all - relied solely on placement of the pad in the caliper body and the metal spring. One of my bikes has these since 2005 - still work like a treat, even with abusive lack of maintenance.

@@JurisKankalis Cotter pins are a consumable item, they don't last forever. A good screw will last for as long as you take care of it. My bike has pads that are held in with a screw and it works like a charm.

​@@lorraineschofield123 what is a castle nut and what is the cotter pin for? lol the cotterpin is to keep the nut from fully backing off. it does nothing to hold hubs or bearings.

Rather have a pin than the Shimano flat head screw.

Aint lying. Shimano pads are crap. You need another brand and the squeek will go away. Shimanos have a poor compound that sucks up moisture

Perhaps the air allowed the pad and fluid to oscillate.. just spitballing

​@dielaughing73 yes. Considering you can't compress water

Well it doesn't squeeze much. It can apply lots of force without changing volume

Agree. They might stop squealing for maybe 10 minutes of the next bike ride.

если ты едешь по земле скрипеть они будут в любом случае, ибо пыль в зазоре неизбежна.

all Shimano brake pads are Japan and EU legal, so probably asbestos free.

@@AlexandarHullRichter truth

А мне нравится , скрипят только когда пережимаешь. Я их использую как клаксон😄

Does it works?

@@loviecirilobalo4517 no!!! Wd-40 Is oil🤦🏼‍♂️

​@@svebinmobiser666_ nope that not oil

​@@svebinmobiser666_ that water displacement

​@@svebinmobiser666_ clean using rotor cleaner

I did that on my rim brakes when i was like 13. As you say, like they weren't there. Oh, did i mention I lived on top of a very steep hill?

lol

Because most of the time the oil that contaminates them cant be fully removed and often the brakes are gonna squeak shortly after repairing them But in the bike shop I work in we do that too sometimes, and often it works. We do it a bit differently.

@@ironeinar nah, just soak them in isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner and it will absorb into the brake material (if it's resin) scrub them with a clean toothbrush and let them dry and you should be good. That's what i have always done with contaminated pads and it's always worked for me.

@@NonLegitNation2 yeah, sadly that won't work as I mostly use sintered pads, and the only thing that works well for me in this case, whilst almost having full braking power after, is to soak them in alcohol and light them on fire. Brake cleaner never works lol Most of the time in the shop we just switch out the pads for new ones, as it costs too much time to try to remove the contamination which sometimes doesn't even work. But as I said, works often so we're trying It as often as we can.

@@NonLegitNation2 I wonder how it would work combined with an ultrasonic.

45 min's to save $20!?!