www.freetronics.com.au/collections/ethernet

I guess the idea is to have a cheap alternative. Of course you can use a rather expensive poe switch, but that would be overkill to feed a single device. You will also need the power regulator because this particular camera can't pull its power straight from the ethernet interface.

***** Yes, and I explained how to do that way back in Episode 3, but as I explained in this video it's bad idea for IP cameras because of their high current draw at low voltage resulting in voltage drop across the cable. You'll get away with it most of the time, but probably have odd problems like cameras spontaneously rebooting at odd times. That's what happened to me, anyway.

***** If you're having voltage drop problems then it's better to use 2 pairs rather than 1. The scheme I use is shown in detail here: www.freetronics.com.au/pages/power-over-ethernet-for-arduino. Another thing that may help is putting a big capacitor at the camera end, maybe even inside the camera. You could use something like a 2200uF or 4700uF electrolytic capacitor. Make sure the voltage rating on the cap is at least double the supply voltage, so if the supply is 12V then use a 25V cap. Solder it so the + lead of the cap goes to the + power supply lead, and - to -. Put it either on across the terminals on the power plug that goes into the camera, or even inside the camera soldered straight to the PCB terminals of the socket. That *may* help, if the voltage drop is causing rapid fluctuations.

Yes, that should be correct. Provided the camera supports the PoE voltage that you supply using the splitter, you're all good :-)

Kevin Solway Yes, that's correct. For a simple camera bandwidth isn't a problem though, and although I often hear people say the spare pairs can be for a second Ethernet circuit, I've never actually found anyone doing that. If you've done it, you're the first person I've ever come across who has done it instead of just talking about it!

+SuperHouseTV Good point. The correct splitters to get an additional ethernet signal are expensive, and I don't even know if they work. It would be ideal if it worked, and were cheap, as I don't like having cables going everywhere.

dtec30 That seems feasible, yes. You just need to make sure the regular Ethernet pairs are connected straight through (2 pairs are required for 10/100base-T, ie: 4 wires) and you can use the others for your own purposes. I double up the remaining 2 pairs so I have 2 wires for "+" and 2 wires for "-" to reduce the voltage drop, but you could use one pair for camera power and another pair for switchable status LED power

Ok one more quick question how is the whole system going have the cameras failed in anyway ?

Sorry had another thought you can get a 2.1 mm 160 degree lens for the cams from ebay and deal extreeme starting at about $4 each to upgrade the image and wider angle on the cam but I believe it does give it a bit of a fisheye look to it but it would be great for driveways and backyards where you need to see a bit more of the landscape so to speak hope this was helpful cheers john

dtec30 It's still going strong. I haven't had any cameras fail, even after years of continuous use. I leave them in a static position though, I don't leave them panning continuously. I suspect the motors would be the first thing to fail if they were left in "patrol" mode and scanning from side to side.

Ok cool thanks for the update

Dave Ferguson You're right, these are indoor cameras and I'm pushing my luck using them in this situation. I have a combination of indoor and outdoor cameras, and I currently have 3 "indoor" cameras installed outside. It's basically because they're cheap! For reference, the one shown in this video on the outside of the garage is the most exposed out of all the indoor cameras, and it's been operating continuously in that position for about 4 years now and I haven't had any problems. I figure that if a cheap camera dies after 4 years and I have to replace it, then I'm fine with that. After 4 years a replacement camera will probably be twice as good and half the price anyway!

SuperHouseTV Thanks a lot for your info! Since I've been trying to get more info on what kind of security cams I ought to buy to observe the outside of my home, I'm pleased to hear from you that it's not much of a problem to use them outdoors too! Here where I live the price of a wireless IP cam is around $85, so you're probably right about them being 'a bargain'. I will install them under a small roof overhang so I guess they'll be pretty save there concerning bad weather. Thank you again, and I hope I can come back on you if I have more questions. Regards Dave

SuperHouseTV can you please tell what cameramodel is it we see the image from at the start of your video? Realy good picture and sound - and that was 2 years ago.... Thanks in advance!

+Chris Leininger I think that would be fine

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The thought of this being used on remote cameras comes to mond, the obvious drawback being adequate isolation and water proofing for safety comes to mind. Typical application being a shed that already had a power feed to it.

+joseph chrzempiec (josephchrzempiec) Yes, to run at higher speeds all 4 pairs are used. The cameras I've seen only run at 10/100Mbps though, which only uses 2 pairs. The Ethernet switch should autodetect the capability of the camera and run that port at 100Mbps

I'm not a CCTV expert, but that sounds right, yes. If they're IP cameras, you can connect them all to a switch, then the DVR connects to the switch as well so it can access the cameras.

I don't know: just heavy gauge hookup wire. There's not a lot of power involved, and it's a short link from the regulator to the board. I think it was probably something like this: www.jaycar.com.au/p/WH3012. That's 13 x 0.12mm cores, which I think is about 26AWG (but I haven't used "gauge" terminology for about 20 years, so I may be wrong about that)

viewsonic010 If the camera can handle a wide input voltage range and has good internal regulation, then yes, you can do that. The problem is that you'll get voltage drop across the cable, so what I'm doing is supplying a higher voltage (12V) on the wire, then regulating it down to 5V close to the camera. Then if there is voltage drop on the wire it doesn't matter.

PoE camera will work without PoE switch. Usually have both choices to supply power to the camera itself.

+Dmitriy Khazansky Good idea, I'll update it. Thanks

Only if you used a PoE splitter in place of the regulator. PoE switches don't supply power down the line unless they've negotiated it with the device at the other end, so it's not enough to just put a voltage regulator on the line. Also, they supply at a nominal 48V so the reg would have to handle that. A PoE "powered device" module could work though

SuperHouseTV i see that makes sense, thank you!

+Ahalya Subramanian I think they're typically about AU$35 or so. I haven't bought one for a few years though

Absolutely. Just splice into the wires at the other end in the same way. I did that many times, but it was fiddly and annoying so I ended up designing this thing to save me time and keep everything neat: www.freetronics.com.au/inch4ch

Hi, Thanks for the great training! The link is showing Page Not Found.

when you are on your home network, you are using your internal ip address which your router recognizes and lets you connects with minimal problems. when you connect from the outside in you need your public ip address to allow connection to see the streaming. so you would have to open up ports and set rules. hope this helps

Louis Carter Yes, and I've done that on two of my cameras. This video was just about a way to make it totally internal to the camera to be extra neat.

Yes, that's true, good catch. The switching regulators I use can't handle power being applied to their outputs. A protection diode on the output would prevent that, at the expense of dropping the voltage slightly.

no problem, and, btw, iam always waiting for new episodes, (and, if i have a typo, its because i am from belgium :p)

DJ SndcX I'm sorry it takes so long between episodes. Unfortunately I have to try to fit it in around lots of other deadlines and work. I'm working on more episodes now

thats no problem, i know it is much work for video editing, recording, and we all know you're doing everything to make them good! (what they of course are :D)

it is not the cable that is the problem it is the adapter and the socket you must put the adapter in if that can be reached, somebody can pull the adapter from the socket

In theory, you'd have a risk of hacking with any network device, be it wireless or wifi. Personally I think the best way would be to set up a seperate vlan for these devices and only allow network communication to the rest of the network on the required tcp/udp ports.

That's marketing. :) Save a few cents by not enabling your device with poe. Offer a similar, poe enabled, device at "highly" increased price for those people who must have/need a poe device.

Top shelf cams usually have just as lousy security. It's amazing. It's criminal how most cheap cams have a telnet port open with login/pwd hardcoded in the firmware. Oh well, you probably know how everyone dismisses our warnings. People, a 12 yo can compromise your cams.

So what do you suggest for securing a Chinese ip camera from WGET and other?

@@jimidero Block the camera from connecting to the Internet (and vice versa) in your router to isolate it to the LAN. Use apps that access the camera locally (like IP Cam Viewer). For remote access, use a VPN to your home, like WireGuard.

@@macemoneta ok I understand. Thanks for the info! But this requires static IP or DDNS probably.

@@maxczapski2239 Could not agree more ! ! ! I have 48v POE Pelco cams on their own Vlan. Not only that, they support IPSEC. CCTV kit is one of those devices where you get what you pay for. Pelco have a good pedigree and are very secure. I have run an overnight scan on all 65535 ports UDP and TCP and only two even respond. 1 UDP and one TCP. Speaking of security I have noticed that Jonathan has solenoid door strikes and locks that fail secure. That is fine if you have a mechanical override but on internal doors I will only use fail safe/open. A system crash or cable damage could leave him trapped. That does rather concern me. I did send Jonathan a message ages ago but the video wasn't changed and I did not get a reply.... Anyone notice the car registration showing at the start of the video ? I don't know if its a problem in Australia but in the UK that plate would be cloned in minutes and he would have 18 points on his licence by now. Home automation is great but high security needs to part of the design !