Super tip!! Thanks for taking the time to share that!💪

The roller thing seems ridiculous, once you put down your first thin coat, lay the tape, then start at the top, pulling down hard and firm. Allot of that first layer of mud will squeeze out the sides so clean it up, get it back for reuse. The biggest mistake first time murders make is your mud is to dry, way to dry, add water u till it runs like pancake mix, very runny.

I have seen tapers soaking the tape in soupy mud before application. Messy af, but seemed effective. I have also seen devices that mud the tape as it comes off the roll and it applies about like modern white-out on paper. One note I will add though: mud the top of the joint a little wider. You don't want to make speed bumps. If it is wide enough, it takes a strait edge to find a bump.

@@leathernluv Banjo

Lol 👍

What the email​@@thinkoutsidethecontainer

​​@@thinkoutsidethecontainerMudding aka dry wall first it needs to be peanut butter thick and you make sure you get the angle of the spatula right when smoothing let it dry it should take about a day and a half then when it's hard and dry then you sand it down with your hand not a sander then use a roller to paint the wall after you whip down the wall with a dry wash rag

Lol yup 😄

Same. Only 12 of them. List mile long.

​@@thinkoutsidethecontainer @thinkoutsidethecontainer What do you charge for this 3-D modelling? Two containers: 12 foot wide container, and 12 feet tall. 1. Container home. 2. Walk in deep freezer about half length 25 feet +/-, walk in meat locker & prep 15 feet +/- 34 degrees fahrenheit, and the last 12 feet a 44 degree cellar, and double entry using " Walk in Cooler Curtains/Plastic strip curtains" a few feet inside door. Energy efficiency is a significant focus...this is first reason for wider and taller container size for both. 1. container home: apply spray foam to a set depth all around to them be cut flat... Then an "air gap" of whatever minimum is necessary to ensure condensation does not occur / moisture does NOT become trapped? (The goal in spray foam and any additional insulation layers attached to the inner wall Directly is applying the concept of a "cold roof" ~ with the container being considered "the roof" all the way around. After the air gap the remaining insulation planned is a similar approach to the "perfect wall"/"100 year wall" concept so from outside in: Tyvek or similar / other such as foil faced polyiso. Termite and ant resistant XPS rigid foam board layers or similar, Tyvek, Inner wall of flat milled (likely cedar) cedar log interlocking/other tongue and groove/options. Obviously we have a number of needs but the first is maximum energy conservation. The future of energy and weather/climate let alone our New global reOrdering uncertainty is creating. The possibility to be either somewhat mobile, or to have a secondary system ready. Let me know if this is something to discuss further or if I am way out in the field on what I think I am after?

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Welcome to Australia!

I think for something that requires precision, like the cutout for doors or windows, you're right: stick to angle grinder. But when I was cutting off entire wall sections to open up floor space (the majority of all cutting, by the way), that really didn't take precision ....rough cuts were fine. Plasma cutter might still be best for those types of cuts.

Yeah the other cha*nel was gotten rid of by you know who. It's still on Odyssey though.

Haha I thought you looked familiar, well it looks like you’ve found something that the overlords are okay with, in fact it looks like they might even promote you judging by the view count! Way to go!

Glad you liked it

Lololololololololololol

Thanks

Yes, I made a video on the final cost here: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/oKVygK57Z4tllps.htmlsi=6dybQobfn1i68niE

Yeah, I've thought about it. Not sure if it would make the most interesting video so I've not made a video. But maybe I'll do one.

Do you think it would be hard to use a torch to cut welds so close to the floor?

I used a pvc buck. Double 2x8 rafters probably were overkill, I just followed what my engineer told me.

I believe I used about one and a half buckets

I have a past video that explains what I did. Here's the link: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/eWGdZoyisGN5pWQ.htmlsi=YReXC9toLil7sKk3 Fast forward to 15:10

I found an engineer on Upwork.com, but obviously you have to be careful who you choose, vet them etc.

Red P*ll Philos*phy. It was terminated by the people that run this site. It's still on Odyssey though

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer YES! i was wondering where you went!? glad you have a place. I loved your stuff. The container stuff is dope too. Been watching a bunch of them. great work.

Not too much these days, but I do tune in occasionally still 👍 Oakley's show remains the undefeated king of earth debates

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer awsome man, that was a real buzz around that time when u we’re doing the lighthouse stuff, and everything going on in Oakleys.. Miss the channe!! Hope all is good, starting my own build now, not containers but, got good inspiration from your build 👍

@@Richutube2000 good luck on your build. My RPP channel is still on Odyssey

I believe I got new construction windows (not retrofit). Mine has a flange all around it on the exterior to create a waterproof seal. I do believe it's just that I forgot to account for the jamb depth...

Yeah I'm in Hendry County. Specifically Montura Ranches but last year they stopped allowing new constructions for container homes in Montura so...

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer my property is in Fort Denaud. I'm definitely going to ask the building department to find out. Thanks for replying

It's allowed on our property!!! Just wanted to share the good news!!! You've inspired us!!!

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer my husband and I have questions. How do we email you?

My email is in the description of this video

Some people like tree houses. That's their right, we can't take that away from them.

Since I spray foamed mine I Don't think that's an issue. Though it might vary depending on if you use open cell vs closed cell spray foam? Not sure.

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer Thanks for the quick reply another concern I have is chemicals. I've heard shipping containers are coated with lots of chemicals to better withstand the weather and I don't want to be inhaling that. Did you have to do any extra cleaning to ensure it's fine?

Condensation is not an issue if the insulation is adhered to the container wall, ie. spraying foam onto it. Otherwise ventilation is more important. As for the chemical concern, the paint may have some constituent that is problematic? Or the treated plywood flooring? Remove prior or leave and seal and should be fine.

I agree with you. They were over-engineered by my engineer. I just did what he told me to do.

The other one was terminated by YT but can still be found on Odyssey

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer Thanks for these uploads, about to do the same thing myself. Still looking at properties in Texas, Colorado and North Carolina. Havent decided where yet,

@@PlasmaBurns cool. Good luck with it.

I'm in central Florida, isolated rural area. Ask your local building department.

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer I’m looking for land at the moment and had no luck in sw Florida, maybe I need to go more north. Thanks for the reply.

@@rad421 usually the more rural / isolated you get the more lax the building codes are

@@thinkoutsidethecontainer tell me about it, I’m in miami and had so many issues with inspectors bothering me for the most minimal issues. My land was agricultural before and now it became residential/multifamily and that’s when all the issues started