Thank you Michael! Indeed, I watch your videos with great anticipation. Any and every way to relocate those flyaway parts is a good way. I too have done those grid patterns on my floor, like some sort of CSI TV show... :) See you on The FB. :)

Dust: I have an air cleaner that runs for three hours every morning. I have found this to help dramatically - along with allergies. :) Loupe technique - Yes keeping both eyes open is good practice - much like target shooting. drilled holes - another good idea. I have wondered why that isn't the default with loupes. That said - I wouldn't want to have to trade the microscope for loupes for most work. :)

Happy that it worked out for you. :) It's a great way to work on watches, for sure.

Thanks!!!

Thank you so much, Sonny! I'm working on getting some more made. :) I'll see you back on the FB groups! :)

Excellent. Glad it can help. Yeah, follow the links to create the perfect descent into insanity - I mean, happiness in watch repair! Lol.

Thank you! If you end up buying any of the parts and pieces, feel free to use the links I provided. And if you do - a BIG thank you. :)

They are calming aren’t they! I find myself snoozing sometimes and have to rewind. It is pretty cool.

great tip!

😢🎉😢

I have found all my work to be very improved also. I'd never go back to just a loupe. I record all my work and actually don't have the problem of hands in the way, by and large. I also don't point down the lens exactly downward at 90 degrees... more of a 85 degree or so angle... that slight pitch makes a lot of difference for the camera and for work in general.

Thank you so much!!! I'm so happy that you liked it. Thank you! And please, tell your friends. :)

You won't regret it. At all.

It' about 50+ at this point. :) and I remain happy as a clam.

Because you do electronic assembly I would like to ask, which microscope do you reccomend for assembly work? Is stefans adequete or would you suggest something else which would make working on delicate electronic components comfortable?

Thank you! I think the biggest differences between these scopes and what you are accustomed to is that the magnification doesn't need (not should it be) to be as high. My previous experience with microscopes was with 1000x type magnification, so these lower magnifications threw me a bit. haha. :) Right tool for the right job Have fun!

Thanks. You're right. I'll add links in the description as soon as I can.

I agree - great if you could provide specific spec’s and links

I've added links.

Sounds like a great deal! Did you double check that the working distance was good?

@@sma1968 yeah it’s 8”

Hi. glad you found the video useful. And yes - the .35 is better. It causes some vignetting, but you do get a less cropped image. Still not perfect though...

Try zooming out all the way and focus. Then zoom in all the way. Don't touch the big knob. Adjust focus of the eyepieces until in focus. Then try zooming out again and see if you're still in focus.

Hi Steve, Yep. I definitely do. The camera itself can record to a chip, so I do a chip dump after every watch. I also grab stills from it so that I can, if I need to, refer to it for reassembly.

@@sma1968 Hi Stefan - Thank you! I have the exact setup from your video queued up in my Amazon shopping cart. I watch another UKposts channel called Chronoglide from the Netherlands (professional watchmakers) and they work exclusively with microscopes. Again, i really appreciate the research and review you did.

Indeed... clicking the links that I have in the description will take you to the exact parts (at the best prices) on amazon... (and... it will help me with no additional cost to you). :) :) we both win.

Hi Jeff, Thanks for compliment on video. Mainsprings - I actually got an old winder and some barrels on Ebay for 140 bucks. It was missing a few barrels, so I bought them singly as needed. That's what i'd advise... I'd look mainly for a winder and then buy the barrels as you need them. Yes, there's a bit of delay in work, but it's a less painful way of building a winder collection than buying a full Bergeon off the bat. and some of the really tiny ones, I haven't used at all (and may never). The other thing I'm also finding recently is that I've been replacing mainsprings (which is considered good practice) when doing a major overhaul/service on the watch. And to be honest, you don't need a winder if you're putting a new mainspring in. (unless it unwinds on you before you can push it in.).

Thanks! Yeah, those little pieces have a remarkable way of ending up places you'd never look. lol.

Hi, Glad you're enjoying it. Yeah, the scope is pretty amazing. So two thoughts: I don't aim it exactly straight down at the movement, I'd say I'm hitting it at maybe a 2 or 3 degree angle. This allows me to see my work better - rather than having my hands obscure things. Perhaps that would help. The other thing (i'm guessing you already tried) - have you turned the light level down? It does have a knob for that. (just in case you missed that)

My camera in the camera exposure settings, I turned it down to -2/3. That certaintly helped.

@@sma1968 Thanks Stefan, I feel a little stupid because I didn't think about tilting the head. It works great and you're right in that having the mic at an angle also helps your vision of what you are doing. This setup is awesome and I'm extremely happy with it. Now let's see some more watch videos from you.

It's 29.5 inches high

Hi, Argh - sorry to hear you're having problems. I'm especially surprised to hear any issues with an SD card. Is it not recognizing the card? What size is the card? I do think the camera has a limitation on how large the card can be. I am using a 16GB class 10 panasonic card with no issues. However, I did notice that a 128GB card didn't read.

I have 128 sd card. Will see how other card works when I receive. I will order your card that you are using as well. Anxious to start working on my new hobby but not starting until I can accurately video tape my moves.

Been at it for just three years. I started upgrading after about a year... :)

desk height of the desk that the microscope sits on is 29.5 inches. Pretty standard desk height. Yes, I put the scope at a slight tilt so that I can see the watch a a slight angle. I adjust this depending on what I'm doing - but most of the time, I keep it with a slight tilt. I do it so that I'm not looking straight down at my hands as I work.

The .35 adapter that I now link to instead of what I had in the video is a lot better. It's still not perfect, but MUCH better.

Single arm boom vs double arm boom. Double arm should give you more stability. Whether this actually matters, I don’t know.

I'm using a mac and the HDMi so this is not first hand information: I believe the camera should be seen by computer as a usb camera device without need for software. However, there is also additional software available at this link... download.hayear.com/content/?270.html Also, I have read (I cannot confirm) that the sd chip has to be removed when using USB.)

Hi. Depth of Field is very narrow.My guess is that it's not much different than most microscope, including yours. With micro photography that i've done where I've wanted to increase the depth of field, I needed to blast a lot of light on the subject and close down the iris of the lens. Since these lens don't have an iris, I don't believe there's any way to increase that depth. On the plus side, focusing is very easy because just the knob on the zoom lens has to be turned to focus, not adjust the entire microscope...

Hi Steve, 'm going to assume that you've played as much with the focus ring on the camera adapter as possible and that's not working. so, if you back the camera out of the tube, does it get into focus properly? If so... (I'm going to assume you don't have it) a C-CS adapter ring. Because the camera is actually CS mount, not C mount. Happily, it's cheap. Here is link to it... amzn.to/3vmXhX8

@@sma1968 You nailed it! I am in your debt sir. That is the one item i didn't buy. Thank you so much!

Hi, glad you found this useful. The links will take you to everything I used (including the updated camera mount). I do most of my work at a slight angle - just so that I can see more of the area I'm working on - that way my hands aren't obscuring anything. I'd say the angle is maybe 3 degrees but that will vary on what I'm doing; there's no specific angle to which I'm wed. For things like hairspring manipulation, I tend to angle straight down straight down - one can really see symmetrical lines perfectly that way. I've even angled the scope at 30 or more degree angles to peer under a balance cock as it was running (though the chair has to really be lowered for that). The working distance doesn't really change a whole lot with the angle of the scope when it's between my typical 3'ish degree angle and 0 degrees; it's never been an issue for any work (I don't ever come close to bumping into the light) There's about a 5.3" working distance from the front edge of the light to the surface when angled. My screwdrivers are about 3.5" in length; so there's a comfortable two inches of clear area. Tweezers are a non issue, because they are angled in from the side for pretty much any work (not straight down) and eve so, my longest tweezer is 4.9". The only things you can't easily do under the scope is work that involves a staking set or jewel press. I haven't change my setup in any significant way since the video... It's really been working well.

@@sma1968 Thank You Stefan for that info-- What intrigued me about your set up was the scope angle. I was stuck in a mindset of using the scope upright and did not think about the angle option. I was using the scope while standing in order to reach the eyepieces ( have high bench). This was uncomfortable for longer periods -- was considering a low bench or high telescoping stool! Set the scope angle at a comfortable eye level that allows me to concentrate and work with ease -- this set up works great with the current bench and stool. Competed a movement rebuild/repair today without fatigue! My workspace is slowly evolving -- these tips have been a big plus! Much Appreciated, Dirkin

Hi, With the Barlow lens and the LED ring light attached, the working distance is about 132mm. (very comfortable space for tweezers and screwdrivers. :) )

@@sma1968 thx :)

As a footnote, I didn't purchase the monitor and perhaps the HDMI output is the way to go instead of using the SUB to laptop solution.

I found a monitor and connected it to the HDMI port. The picture was still blurry until I raised the microscope up to a working height of 10 inches which now made focusing the microscope difficult.

@@michaelcoulton7039 Hi, when the camera adapter is focused properly, both it and the microscope should have the same focal point. Is that happening now? If not, as an experiment, pull the camera adapter ring up out of the scope tube by about 1/4 inch or less... does it now go into focus? if so, you need the c/cs mount ring. I needed that when I was using the .5 adapter, but not the .35 adapter - so I don't know if that's the exact issue. The working distance should be about 6 inches.

@@sma1968 Hello. I found if the camera is unscrewed and almost out of thread then the picture is clear. I'm not sure is I can pull up the scope tube; it seems fairly tight. Thank's for the suggestions. At least I'm on the right track.

@@michaelcoulton7039 In that case... this should be the answer... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01531I8IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It depends on the size of the chip and what format you shoot. But yea - plenty of recording time... like more than an hour.

hi Jimmy, thanks for compliment on video! Do you know which model scope you have? Is it a zoom lens or a fixed lens ?

@@sma1968 The Microscope is a cheap one around €200 the lens is fixed. I hope you can help I have 25 pocket watches I bought from last October as I am new to this hobby. Hoping I can start on them through the winter months as I have lots to do in the garden at the moment, and as I said its a hobby.

@@jembo1959 My guess, without knowing the actual model number, is that the limited working distance is a characteristic of your scope. This is. It uncommon with fixed lens scopes. You may be able to change the distance slightly by changing the lens focus though it will also come at the cost of magnification.

@@sma1968 I found out the Am Scope is KONUS #5420

This is a perfect microscope for electronics work. The working space or great for getting a soldering iron under the lens.

I fill the ultrasonic with water and then I put the parts in small glass containers. In the containers, I use L&R 111 cleaning solution. After the first clean, I rinse with L&R rinsing. If the parts are really dirty, before the ultrasonic, I clean with Ronsonal Lighter fluid and pegwood. I also restored a watch recently that was really rusted - I used good-old WD-40 to loosen it up. Then I cleaned with the above mentioned.

forget the above, decided to get same model as yours SN4ntp. Can you post a link for the .35C mount adapter for the camera, Thanks

@@madmechsgarage1727 Here are links to all the parts and pieces I purchased, including the Adapter... Here are links to all various parts I ordered for this microscope setup. Microscope amzn.to/3wwW7Jt (this can also be purchased from Amscope. Check both sites because prices vary) Barlow Lens amzn.to/38Mqnqu LED light amzn.to/3sOuklB Camera amzn.to/3GmjWXT Adapter for camera to microscope. (.35) amzn.to/3GbbFFR Video Monitor amzn.to/3G55sLK HDMI Cable amzn.to/3MOuYHq L shaped Desk amzn.to/3PxEsZF

@@sma1968 Thanks :)

Hi, Thanks for compliment and glad you're finding the video useful. I just checked the link and it's still the same microscope and stand. Might just look different from that angle. The Andostar is great for examination of stuff - but the real limitation is that it's not a three dimensional (stereoscopic) image - and not 'quite' real time. That makes doing actual work with it a lot more tricky. I know it may not sound like quite the big deal that it is - but it is. :) Being able to work while viewing everything stereoscopically (and in absolute real time) is the real difference and (as I repeatedly say) game changer of all this. Basically, looking through the microscope makes it almost feel like you're working on a car engine. LOL. (though you're reminded that you're not when you drop a part)

@@sma1968 If there is a lag, then it is not good (BTW I heard one of the reviewer saying there is no lag). The reason I am tryin to shy away from it is in Canada this scope is C$1241+161(tax)=1402 which become expensive for a beginner. Not only this, I will have to buy some additional stuff (camera, lens, light, etc). Scope alone is not very expensive which is at C$486 but when combined with stand, it becomes expensive. I was wondering if I can buy it alone and then get the stand from some other source which maybe cheaper.

@@IamGPSGuy You could buy just the head and then try to find a stand... However, (because I did try all sorts of price variations), I couldn't find a way to beat the price I got. This is a link to just the microscope head... amscope.com/collections/stereo-microscopes-microscope-heads/products/sm745tp HDMI doesn't have any (noticeable) lag, which is why I prefer it to USB. You can also plug it into any hdmi monitor for viewing.

@@sma1968 I realize that I am taking lots of your time and you have been really prompt in your response. So many thanks for that. One final question: I noticed that it comes with two kinds of sands A) Dual Arm Boom stand (the one that you got) and the other B) Single Arm boom stands which about US$ 100 cheaper. What is the advantage of buying A over B? (I ask this because you went for B).

@@IamGPSGuy No worries on questions. It's a big purchase. The main difference (besides maybe a bit more stability) is that you can slide the double boom arm in and out without changing the angle of the scope (angle of the lens facing down in relation to the watch). To be honest, if you're trying to save money any which way possible - this IS one place you could do it and not kick yourself later. :) I wanted the option of easily sliding the microscope out of the way - but I haven't really done that much. lol I use it 98 percent of the time.

Hi, Yes, the link is updated. Thanks! Adapter for camera to microscope amzn.to/3GbbFFR

Barlow lens should take care of that issue.

@@sma1968 I bought a 0.5x and it did the job,but about 2" to high (could always raise my seat) and not expensive. So I ordered a slightly different size 0.3x which was higher still! should have ordered a 0.7x, went the wrong way. But at least I now sit with a nice straight back.

@@leowatkins3718 Posture is everything. haha. You can also angle the scope slightly - that lowers it as well as gives you more of typical "loupe" view. The only downside is that the focus is narrow.

There’s no downside, you’re just getting an extra Barlow lens (a 2.0 “doubler”) You can always get it later so it’s not a know or never” purchase. I also have that lens, but it’s too much magnification for most watch work. However, for some dial restoration work, where extreme magnification might be useful, it’s great.

From tabletop to eye pieces is 16.5 inches and from work piece to bottom of the ring light (which sits just a bit below the lens is about 6.5 inches)

@@sma1968 Brilliant, thank you that's most useful. Watching the video again I noticed you sometimes looked through the scope with your glasses on and one time you took them off, what's your preferred method? I suppose my question is without wearing your glasses how do you see when placing parts in a tray, do you have to keep putting them back on?

I don't use my glasses at all when working. I'm near sighted so I can see fairly well up close (to about seven inches from my eyes...) If that's of any help... I just need to look away from the scope and not get very close to the tray to pick up or put down or pick up parts in the tray, then it's right back to the eyepieces. @@yesterdayschild1418

@@sma1968 Thanks, Stefan. I now have a scope on order so we'll see how things go with my high bench and eyesight. 🙂

I believe you will love it! (except that you will probably want to get a lower bench.@@yesterdayschild1418

Hi, so I checked out the model you're using and it seems as though the working distance is good - so my guess is that's not an issue. It has a light (which seems as though it would work well... However, I do notice that it has essentially two different focal lengths - 10x and 20x. Is that your issue? even 10x is quite a lot of magnification for watch work - so I'm wondering if there is a barlow lens that could be used on this scope? It's really nice to be able to get down to 3.5x magnification. I will also say that the zoom functionality of the SM series scopes is really invaluable for watch work... it allows you too zoom to the exact power that you need, without the need of switching eye pieces. Would be curious to know if this is your issue. If not, please do elaborate on your woes.

@Stefan Avalos Actually, Stefan, you touched on half the problem. The other issue is illumination. Between the two, I could probably come up with a work-around for the lighting, but with my current optics, I am Waaay too much up close and the field-of-vision is about 20% of a pillar plate. I have ordered 5x eye-pieces which might be of some help, but the real issue is that what was good for its original purpose of inspecting for minutia, has made it over-powered for more general work. Now, in fairness, I did reach-out to AMSCOPE, and they recommended another, much more expense scope approximating your own set-up and if I was a watch pro that would make a lot of sense. However, I'm a guy on a vintge-pocket-watch mission so this won't make me my first million :-). Thoughts?

@@BruceWSims In lieu of getting the scope that Amscope (and I) recommend, I think the 5x eyepieces will make a world of difference. Definitely having that option will be a positive.

Hi, a camera is not required. It's just a nice thing to have so that you can review/record your work... in case you need to see how something goes back together, for instance. :)

Hi. Those two descriptions actually are about different things. Yes, it is a simulfocus scope - what that means is that the camera functions along with the eyepieces at the same time. Scopes that don’t have that feature actually have to shut off one of the eyepieces for the camera to work (the image is redirected to the camera from the eyepiece- which is quite inconvenient) Par-focal means the image stays in focus no matter what your magnification power is (with the lens staying the same distance from the subject). Many scopes, with fixed lens require you to move the lens further or closer to the subject (and then refocus) to change the magnification power.

@@sma1968 Hi, Stefan, great thanks for the details answer, I see you are very well aware of the microscopes, which is very useful for all the people that follow your videos. With the risk to be a bit annoying, a would like to ask two more things: - first is about the feature par-focal - I got the idea, but my question is how to figure out of a microscope has this feature or not. For example even on the AmScope web site this is not mentioned for this model (amscope.com/products/sm-4ntp). Is it this line ("The zoom lenses can be locked to maintain a consistent magnification") that means that the microscope has par-focal feature? - second question is about the Barlow lenses. I see that very often these Barlow lenses are sold in a pair with 0.5x and 2x (seldom one can also see 0.7x). My question is what is the difference between 0.5x and 2x and which Barlow lens gives you larger working distance (in your video I see that with 0.5x you are having something like 20 cm working space, which is quite OK, but what will be the difference if you use 2x lens). Thanks in advance for your answer and keep on with the videos - they are really useful!

Hi, I don't know exactly how one would know if the zoom is par focal or not based on specs (unless they specifically mention it). I think most of the zoom models will be - And all the SM series Amscope scopes are essentially the same scope (with just different attachments or lens kits) - so they will all be par focal. The "fixed power" microscopes are the ones that you want to stay away from for watches. (you have to move the lens closer and further away from the subject and refocus to change zoom). Barlow lens. The .5 will halve your image power (and give you more distance from the subject) and the 2x doubles the image power (and you need to get closer). So when you see the microscope zoom range say 3.5x-90x - that's with two lens changes... the base microscope does 7x-45x. You put on the .5 Barlow to get 3.5-22. You change to the 2x Barlow to get 14x-90x With watch making you don't need the 90 x power. So, I would save money and just get the .5 Barlow. Even 45x is much more than is really needed - and that comes default with the microscope by just taking off the Barlow; and so far, I haven't taken the .5 Barlow off for any watch work.

@@sma1968 Many thanks again, now it is clear to me how it works and what to look for. Great explanation, by the way!

Maybe a stupid questio, but yet, for the par-focal functionality does the microscope use power supply? I mean, how does this autofocus functionality work - I mean the functionality to keep the object in focus even if you move it under the lenses while working.

Hi, I don't have an install video but suggest that the SD card is the easiest/best way to go with recording images. As pondered in my other reply - what size card were you trying? I'm using a 16GB card with no issues. 128 GB didn't work. What OS are you using? osx or windows?

16 gb card worked. Camera manufacturer should have included. I can now video tape record on 10 inch monitor. My windows 11 system still not recognized camera. That's my next project.

@@danflayler9948 Glad to hear it worked out. I think the issue is that it's technically not an "SD" card... it's TF Card. I suppose the format structure is different??? Anyway, i don't even bother with any other form of recording. It works really well. Have fun and let me know how it goes!

Yeah, basically, the scope's default optics in this category are all this power - and then adapters change the ranges. Yes, it's overkill without a Barlow lens. With the Barlow lens on, at widest you can see 60.5mm, edge to edge, completely zoomed in 8mm. If you need to get in even closer (which I've only needed to do a couple times for some really delicate cleaning dial, you can take the Barlow lens off.

Depends. If I can buy parts or movements on ebay I do that. For new parts, Ofrei, CousinsUK are my go to. For materials, usually Esslinger.

@@sma1968 thanks for the Beta!

Could you please supply the exact spec’s for your microscope, lens, stand, etc. I like to obtain the same exact set-up

@@williambrooks3436 Microscope amzn.to/3wwW7Jt (this can also be purchased from Amscope. Check both sites because prices vary) Barlow Lens amzn.to/38Mqnqu LED light amzn.to/3sOuklB Camera amzn.to/3GmjWXT Adapter for camera to microscope amzn.to/3GbbFFR Video Monitor amzn.to/3G55sLK HDMI Cable amzn.to/3MOuYHq L shaped Desk amzn.to/3PxEsZF

@@sma1968 Thanks Again!

I know, right?! I actually do have a couple vids I need to edit and organize... gonna work on a valjoux 7733 chrono, maybe today! :)

No, for that you need magnification of 1000x or so. Which would be way too much for working on a watch. :)