Best video I have seen so far! thank you for taking the time. The explanation of principles involved helped me understand the concept.

I may have to integrate that into out shops. That is an excellent idea.

This was dope. Great work, brother.

Haven’t even finished the video and I already learned new info. Really appreciate you diving into the science at the beginning.

i bought 10 ft. 1/2 inch copper tubing bent it into a 2 ft. coil immerse it in cold water in a large bucket then add a water separator before the compressed air goes into the tank

I'm in the process of installing my 80 gal compressor and purchased an after-cooler and an automatic timed tank drain. I wished I knew about this before because it might have eliminated the need for my air conditioner and the auto-tank drain. When I move in 2 years to a much bigger space I plan to use this pre-cooler (with the auto drain and after-cooler because . . . why not?). At suggestion of the compressor mfr I installed pneumatic hoses. The ones I installed are rated at 4,000 psi so I don't think there will be a problem there. I love UKposts because I am a visual learner and wished you'd shown the actual connections. Thank you for sharing. Great vid with real world results.

Excellent results!! I’m in SC and the humidity is ridiculous causing my compressor to work its A$$ off while producing a TON off water. I use an auto-drain on the bottom of the tank every 3 mins and I still get a ton of water in the lines. Great solution and I’m ordering the parts NOW!! Love the science and the results!!

You effectively added a front mount to your air compressor. That's definitely a stage 2 build 😂

I like this. Inspired by what you have done, I am building a system just like this on my Ingersol Rand. I will send a picture when I am done, though I am not sure if I can post a picture here. The white lab coat is a nice touch, Mr Science.

Good choice on the filter. I did something very similar but I first had a much smaller filter/separator and was only getting about 75% of the water out. The rest, of course, ended up in the tank. I changed to the same separator you’re using and it’s now more like 90%. I also have another separator closer to my tools and I do get a small amount of water there as well but probably only 1-2 percent of the total. I think that’s mostly the result of the temperature in the tank being slightly higher than ambient; especially after using it awhile. The trip from the tank to the 2nd separator gives it a chance to cool off some more and lose the extra water.

Couple 4x4's or 2x6's behind the intercooler would work great

I just ordered a Champion VR series 7.5 Hp 80 gallon. I'm very impressed with the temperature drop. I may do this modification once I receive my compressor.

Very cool setup! I have been wondering how to build something like what you demonstrated, now I know. Did you do any comparison of before and after water collection from the tank? Along with the relative humidity, it would have been nice to see the overall efficiency of your setup. Thanks again for the demo.

If you assume maximum water saturation for your compressor outlet, it’s more than 10x less possible water in the air with your setup. Results are more significant than I would have guessed. Well done! Thanks for doing science!

Hey, use nylon hoses instead of metal tubing to connect to the aftercooler. The vibrations from the compressor will transfer to and eventually break off the fittings of the aftercooler. There's videos of that happening.

What connectors did you use on the aluminum piping? This is a great idea. I've always dried/cooled after the air comes out of the tank, never thought about before.

Rich, I think I need a little more detail on how the switch works. I wired it up on the load side of the switch like you said. Line to line, neutral to neutral and ground to ground. Ran the 3 wires around to the power supply. Ground to ground. White to 'N'. Black to 'L'. Wired the fan to the DC side of the power supply. Turned on the 0 pressure compressor and it fired up just fine but the fan did not come on. BTW the power supply selector switch is set for 220V. What gives, do you think? Should the power supply switch be set to 110?

I like see if any of the modifications cut down on air pressure at end of hose?

Do you think it would be more efficient if the radiator wasn't wall mounted? Or if there was more separation possibly?

Rich, I figured it out. I did this little experiment with about 110 psi in the tank (I left the tank open to the shop last night and overnight it lost 65 lbs). I loosened the black plastic nut at the bottom of the water separator and the stem got loose and a little water dribbled out around the stem. That tells me the body (at least) was not pressurized. You can remove the body by firmly taking it in your right hand (left hand to steady the tubing going in) and turn the body less than a quarter turn to the left. There is a plastic piece that hangs from the head. Ignore it. In the body is a float mechanism that you can remove by loosening the black nut at the bottom and taking the nut off. Remove the float mechanism and hold it by its black plastic outlet and you can move the float up and down and watch the arm move up and down. Reinstall it and fill the body half full with tap water while standing over the sink. The front indicator will indicate the level of water in the body. While you are doing this water will slowly drizzle out of the bottom outlet. If this thing is working properly it should never ever get half full because at that depth the float is floating and water will drain and it will likely never drain completely because once the float drops below the level of water necessary to make it float it should stop draining. When reinstalling the body because tolerances are small, you will need to firmly press down on the head of the separator and while pushing up on the body you should be able to engage both sides and properly reinstall the body. I am not sure why some have been upset with the automatic drain (1 star reviews on Amazon) except that they either don't know how it works or with lots of use some debris has fouled the float and a washout might become necessary. The one thing I don't know, at this moment, is whether the body is ever pressurized. But, an easy test is to loosen the black plastic nut at the bottom of the separator body. If air and water rushes out then at that moment it is pressurized. There are different types of drains, automatic, semiautomatic, low flow drains, spitter drains and manual drains. I think this unit comes with just one kind of automatic drain and a manual drain. Anyway, a video that explains the 2 types of drains that come with this unit, I think would be a good idea. Because if you think you have an automatic drain and you have a manual, you will have problems.

Rich, my system is all installed. I have a question about the moisture trap. It looks like you have the automatic drain feature. You have likely logged more hours with your system by now. What are your cues that the automatic drain is working? I have a black plastic nut at the bottom which if loosened causes the stem to be loosened but nothing else happens so I leave the black plastic nut snug tight. I am assuming that if enough water collects in the trap that something causes it to drain which means it will fall to the floor (no big deal in my shop with a concrete floor). I have read some Amazon reviews that are not happy at all with the automatic drain feature. So I worry.

I want a compact version of this for a portable air compressor.

My Ingersol Rand (IR) is 220v and the power supply is set on 220. Now there is just 1 pair of wires that run over from the (IR) switch box to the regulator. I'm thinking that you need two 110 wires, (black and red) to make a 220 with one neutral (and the ground of course). So it seems to me that the switch is 110 because there is just one wire pair and once that 110 circuit is closed it closes a switch in the switch box that supplies 220 to the electric motor. I'm just trying to figure out why the fan doesn't run.

How bad of an idea is it for me to try this science experiment on my Ingersol Rand, without any science background? Here goes nothing!

How did you mount the power supply to the wall you skipped that part

how did you wire the power supply you did'nt go over the wiring you just stated you wired it to the pressure switch what about all other connerctions

Outlet temp is still 290. The temp only drops after the cooler, from 130 to 90.

not exactly sure where he got the working pressure 1900psi from. There's not a chance its anywhere near that and in fact on the website it is stated at 200psi, but Jegs sells a similar line only rated at 25 psi (which seems crazy low)

Bucket on the floor under the water separator.

Set the power supply to 14-15 volts like it runs at on the car.

make brackets so it blows down on the compressor head to help cool the head

Why not install the heat exchanger on the compressor next to the fan? It would eliminate the need of an electric fan If your compressor cooling fan is large enough, that is.

I bet that 12 volt dc fan didn't last very long hooked up to that ac switch.