Depending on what you plan on doing, I would highly recommend a DIL IC remover for the hand tools. Sure you can pry them off with a screw driver, but you are a monster if you do.

Here in Europe things are really easy: get a tv, either CRT, LCD or Plasma from roughly 1990-2010, and you're set. The only ones a bit picky are the tiny ones, 14 inch or so, as they often only handle RGB and composite, not S-video, and some don't do 60Hz either. When I go up in size, 20 inch or more, basically every screen I try has 50/60 PAL/SECAM/NTSC compatibility and 2 or 3 SCARTs with both S-video and RGB. Some are really cheap. Especially a Panasonic Viera from 2008, or a Sony Bravia with wide-gamut CCFL and VA panel, are impossible to beat. They can be found in the range free to max 25 bucks. The only no-go is 16:9 100Hz CRT's. Ideally you go after a 20-27 inch Trinitron, but you spend more on those, maybe like 100 bucks. PVM's are not needed, they may look cool, but they easily fetch 200 bucks or more, where a Plasma delivers a much better image for a fraction of the price, and if you want small and cute, those 14 inch Trinitrons that usually do 25 bucks as well are perfectly fine. Maybe not the stellar geometry, but the scanlines and colours are beautiful, and much easier to carry around.

Nice to see both Pico-8 and Asprite. We love those tools. I do miss that no-one said enough is enough when it comes to assembly mnenomics. They suck. If I want to put 8 in register A I want to type A=8. Not LD, A, 8. Any recommendations to someone who made a sane assembler?

It's so funny... Serial speed to the support processor - "1152000 to be precise" - only off by a factor of 10 😆

My eyes are crossed and my head hurts from listening to the madness. 😵‍💫 I made the decision to use the 20 megahertz variant Z840020C (functionally identical to Z80) for my dream computer project and I've been stuck since. I've made some progress of a planned dirt-cheap video and sound system, but in paper form only. I have all the necessary components needed to build it (all modern, off-the-shelf parts made today), I just need some static RAM chips worth 64kb each bank, a clock divider for NTSC output and a blank 32k EPROM chip to house the core functions. Now I realize I may have made a mistake... help would be nice.

Thanks SO MUCH for using a proper CRT/scan-line mode. So many reviewers and so-called retro experts don't do this and so miss capturing the real look and feel of using these systems back in the day...

Why not change the BBC Micro plug to a EU (Type F/Schuko) one?

13:35 Did you make a video on this microscope? I saw one about cheap magnifying tools but not this optical stereomicroscope

Hi, is it safe to touch with fingers the cold wire of solder before soldering ? It contains lead, so should'nt we use gloves ?

That tool wall there, do you have a supplier for it? I've the same but can't find it locally any more. Thanks!

Noel, there is another thing you can explain of : what do the out (0xf0),a instruction? ok, that places 0xf0 on the lower A0-A7 bit, but guess what register content is going to A8-A15?

it should have been called out (BC),a instead of out (c),a. however, this behaviour could have conflicted with other instructions like otir with did another thing: they alter B register. So the BC address would have been unuseful after the first OTIR. It is better to only decode the lowest 8 bit of I/O

I just bought a Z80 CPU from 5hk1584 (one of your good vendors from the end of the video) and it was fake. I put acetone on the top, and my cotton swab turned completely black.

How good is it at identifying chips e.g. where the numbers have been sanded off?

I'm using gotek fully external driver without the df selector i have not touch any internal part of amiga and since some of the games are not booting from DF1 the external drive (gotek) i'm using the usb of the gotek and then move to phisical floppy with X-copy so i can boot from df0 without doing anything to my amiga. Ofc you need to have some working amiga floppies but this is the solution to not touch anything of amiga.

3:19 "modern components". The thing has VGA...

The extra $9 was for food during the research, ordering, and build process.

So "sleep" mode was actually invented a long time ago since that keeps a snapshot of the current RAM state and re-loads it on power resume. I never shut down my PC, I perpetually use sleep mode.

With those keys that were yellowed on the sides, I would be tempted to just wet sand the worst of it away. It wouldn't noticeably affect the texture, and since it is on the sides rather than the tops of the keycaps, it wouldn't hurt the legends.

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I don't think fakes. we don't know what's going on with the manufacturers. this technology is not 100% perfect. When a manufacturer receives an order for 100 thousand pieces he must require the specifications published in the data sheet. he will start production. he will test each component. So out of 100 thousand there must be at least 15% which are outside the specifications. he will put them aside so 10 thousand pieces will be thrown away? these parts are functional..but slightly offset. crazy it works crazy it doesn't work.

It is fun to think one day people will likely be emulating present day computer hardware on computers with many TB or RAM and petabytes of persistent memory and hacking to the very limits of addressable memory to get performance and run software that is completely unaffordable in 2024.

Wow, such a great video about an 8-Bit computer I new next to nothing 'till today. Super professionally done, and, man, such a pleasure to see you tested and played the games first, and then shot the video!

My favorite thing to use my HV probe is with my older arcade monitors (MS8-26). The sound of the charge draining is really satisfying.

This was so bad. The Vic20 is about 2.5 years older than the C64, having come out in Japan in 1980. You call the C64 it's older brother. Then, the Atari, whose clock is about 78% faster than the other 6502 machines was the slowest at 50 secs yet you claimed the C64 was slowest though it took 40 secs. And you never even said which basic was used on the Apple- there are 2 different versions.

That's probably because you grew up with it .. others grew up with Spectrums or MSX or even C64 and it is their absolute favorite ;)

"WHAT DO YOU TOOLS NEED?" Reads the thumbnail. C:

I really loved our Amstrads that we had when I was a kid, I spent many years programming on it from '84 to around 1990 when I got a C64 in my room.

The pack of components required, with the CPLD already programmed... is there somewhere where we can purchase those?

4:00 The chance a new TV has RF today is 10 times bigger than the chance it has composite input. Even those 8K OLED's prefer RF above composite. Thing is a modern TV most likely has a DVB-T2 tuner or a DVB-C tuner. Both run over coax. And the chipsets decode analog RF along with the digital formats.

Nice video. We are making a 2MB expension for the Philips P2000T, a Dutch Z80 machine, internally, as it has plenty of room. 2MB is the limit, as the OUT toggle can deliver 256 positions for the upper 8kB of RAM. So you get 2108 kilobytes. Actually back in 1988 someone already made a 2MB expansion for this machine, byt with 256kbit chips (64 of them!): the use was running a BBS over the Viewdata protocol. They needed to upload 5 floppy's with all the user messages and such into the RAM, and they even managed to run it for 5 years without a single power-down. Our modern version has 4x512KB chips and TTL logic. Still it is pretty compact. What is weird though, the C128 does flip the entire RAM. Must have been hard to swap data between the two halves on that machine.

Hi, Sorry for being a noob here but what type of wire did you use? Is there a specific size or type I would need to do this mod. Cheers.

Tldr for anybody trying to build a lab don't buy everything at once you don't need 20 multimeters two oscilloscopes two bench power supplies Try your luck with whatever you got right now if that doesn't fit your criteria or breaks easily or broke quickly then get a new one get a proper one Don't go out buying the best the most expensive if you do maybe 2 hours of soldering in a year Go by what do you need currently for your current project Everything else is going to accumulate really really quickly

Depends on kind of work, but as a kid (1973) i repaired and played with radio's and televisions with just a 25W iron and borrowed screw drivers. Then got a very cheap analogue multimeter. I got into building transmitters so bought a £8 SWR bridge for an indication of RF power, then next a Taylor RF signal generator i found at a jumble sale to work on shortwave receivers. Was 1978 before i saved up enough for a 600MHz frequency counter as by then was building phase locked loops using logic chips to control transmitter oscillators. Always stuck to analogue and done a lot with valves. Love the things, especially in high power transmitters. Microprocessors leave me cold but forced to delve into it sometimes.

How much it cost in total?

But using a 32 bit, 240 MHz processor for i/o is beyond cheating, if you take it by the title of the video, right?

Hunt the Wumpus!

Your contact's statement about cheap tape decks working better than expensive ones is supported by the Timex Sinclair 1000 user manual. I'm hoping to put this to the test once I've finished repairing my Sony hi-fi deck. Right now, I have a Panasonic shoebox deck from the 2000s which doesn't work too well, and a Timex Sinclair cassette player that does the job when volume and tone are around 7-9.

There are glasses like that which allow you to clip on multiple lenses simultaneously.

Is this true ?

Can you use this to attach a cdrom to a 8 bit computer

Install 1gig of ram

Those "fake" chips are like the plague. In fact, they often are genuine but inferior components with other specs that are rebranded, when not outright duds. That shows how China is corrupt. I even would bet that the Chinese government is funding the flooding of the market with these chips. So much so that even reputable distributors may get them unintentionally. What a cancer!

Is there a budge option? The 6128 seems rather expensive, and the disk drive is so obscure, it will be hard to get working disks for it. I do like the fact that its Basic has an EDIT function with working insert, that is really special, only seen in my favourite machine the Philips P2000T. That one shares a lot of your preferences, except it is very bad in graphics, but that is no big deal IMO, as I don't get home computers for games, a NES is a clear winner at that, not to mention my PC Engine from 1987 destroys any competition. My reasons I like the P2000T: - RGB output, super clean text and colours on a cheap compact Trinitron. - The micro-tapes are super fun, and do automatic loading/writing. - Affordable - Very easy to maintain, and bullet proof. Hardly any wear, even the tape-drive is rock solid after 40 years with no belt wear as it has no belt. - Built in PSU, no external brick. - Room for expansion inside - Great 80 column mode without loosing colour or compatibility (still 8 colour). - Great looking case - New hardware comes out, like 2MB RAM expansion. - Excellent BBS/Viewdata terminal