"It leaves a fantastic finish in the holes" <spits out coffee> "Wha.... oh, never mind."

I always enjoy your videos. Your projects seem practical and useful to the home hobbyist, especially those without a fortune in expensive machinery. You give me courage to attempt projects I would otherwise just purchase, thinking I wouldn’t be able to build such useful tools. And…I’d much rather have the ones you build rather than the cheap import junk most of us can afford. After seeing the video of your small shop and limited equipment I am even more impressed to see what you can accomplish. I do hope you are able to expand your shop space and add additional equipment (metal cutting bandsaw-like everyone else that watches 😊) as time goes by, but I hope that would never take you away from making the content that is so relative and helpful to so many of us viewers!

👍👍

It's really detail specific and precise science to electroplate. As you displayed here a protective coating can quickly be applied. There are heavy metal forms which can contaminate the body to various degrees and are particularly nasty. The nickel must be of the purest quality and 100% pure for anodes or diodes. Contamination with (Fe) iron and Carbon must be avoided and copper in the nickel acetate is said to be dangerous also . A fume hood over the bath or a great amount of ventilation will help protect the worker, I have read. So we know then the gaseous forms pose the danger since you wont be drinking or contaminating food with any of (God willing) Also it's common sense to keep the hands dry and clean inside nitrile or latex gloves? The power source is the easiest thing to make a strong influence on the plating. Temperature also. So I know enough that your video helps me to understand better since all these points you covered including do research plenty.

I find that 3 jaw on the mini lathes notorious for having parts slip.

For the Rust Bluing technique, he says "Sodium Peroxide" but uses "Hydrogen Peroxide". Be careful!

it look likes not practical to prepare the device because it took time

thing is with grinding that the amount of material that passes the tool varies from the outer circle towards the center so you either need to slow down the lathe while moving to the center of move the tool slower inside the further you go in allso might be eazier to heat treath the steel if you use a pottery oven as you can controll the temperature a little better inside it and heat the part more evenly , you had the part in the pad of the propane flame and it was pretty clear that the part closest to the flame got hotter faster than the part that was away from the flame , this might allso cause warping aaaah waswondering where a staking anvil ws used for , hmmm thats pretty handy

If you want to polish the face of the bench block further, you could certainly stick a piece of fine sandpaper in a granite surface plate or even a thick piece of float glass and wet sand the face of the block against it.

Brilliant as ever, the level of effort puts the rest of us to shame!

Bel progetto! Una domanda lo spessore a coda di rondine che hai effettuato in ottone va bene anche alluminio o meglio ottone? Perché a casa ho tante barre in alluminio e gli spessori di serie fanno veramente schifo. Grazie

Sound a good thorough review

Hello Thank you very much for sharing your videos and your art with us. Ihave a question!? Can you say me please how much must cut this place that the screws are? Best regards sina Von Österreich 🇦🇹

1000 in labor to avoid a 100 tool//

Using a tap would have been a better choice.

It is a Chinese machine suspiciously cheap. I wan’t to know if it can run it’s software on a laptop never connected to the internet, and if you can install the software from a USB without having to register online.

I have an idea for minimizing the aerosolized coolant your mist part cooler produces. Add a brush to the end like one of those cheap ones for flux, or maybe add a sponge brush, the brush head means it still delivers the coolant where needed by just placing the brush head on the part. It'll reduce aerosolized coolant by catching it in the bristles/sponge.

Critics just don't understand the stakes.

Wait... Didn't that mill have a 3hp motor? Surely that would have no problem with that 4140 I imagine?

Always a source of amazement as to how much can be achieved with so little with a bit of 'can do' attitude. And I always learn something 🙂

I would imagine the reason it cracks in water is because it is cooling it off too fast. Oil will hold heat better. Keeping the part from shock. Same reason why some people can heat treat a flat bar, and others are just cooking a banana.

I still think you should turn the wooden handle around on the plane so it fits in the palm of the hand rather than pointing into the palm.

That massive chunk in the lathe looked funny as! Keep up the great work dude, Ive only just discovered your channel but I'll be there from here on in mate.

Ild avoid using your power drill to unwind your chuck. If a chip gets in there then it can cause some damage to your chuck since the drill will just power through

It's awesome to learn more ways I could do a job even without the proper equipment. lol well done. My suggestion would be if you're ever in a position again of having to make "V" grooves like that again would be to machine the relief slot first. This may seem counter intuitive at first but it is very important based on surface speed of tool geometry. When running at a constant RPM the larger the diameter of the tool the greater the surface speed is all the way down to a diameter of Zero whereby no matter how fast you have your spindle running the surface speed is also Zero. Therefore, when machining a "V" groove with a chamfer tool and no relief you are basically dragging the very tip through the material as if it isn't spinning at all which will create greater pressure on the machine and the tool. Hope this is helpful for future endeavours.

You'll have to get a stick with some magnets on it for the swarf.

You could check out your local fish and chip shop for oil. You should be able to get 20l drums of it very cheaply, it might smell like fish and chips but should be fine for quenching.

Nice job I would be very pleased with that, I like the 55 rockwell hardness because that should stop the edges of the holes rounding into the piece and gouging pins. Nice work

Nice build. One suggestion though, instead of loads of facing cuts to clean up the stock, use the mill with a large end mill or shell mill to remove the bulk, then face in the lathe.

For the algorithm.

HRC of 50-55 is pretty high for 4140 steel. Its toughness increases rapidly below HRC 50. 42-48 is generally a good range for very high strength and good toughness

where in oz are you ? ill offer free surface grinding if your in vic postage out side vic would cost as much as a local shop

dished out bottom strikes me like a leveling thing like bottom of a cup is dished out but then why wouldnt you want the mass for warping on heat treating ? or is it to sit on a sand/lead bag ?

You ran out of power when drilling enventhough mill has the 3 hp motor?

to get a better finish with your tool post grinder, run the chuck clockwise (reverse), dress your stone with a 45 degree-ish angle and turn the post with grinder mounted to match the angle on the stone to the work. only take very light cuts. anything 1/1000 of an inch is way too much for a tool post grinder

I guess I was spoilt, back in the 80’s when I was an apprentice we had surface, cylindrical and tool/ cutter grinders, real sized mills and lathes!

Great job! Very nice work😊

Good stuff

when machining a v groove, it is a good idea to make a relief with the normal endmill first :) Also, 50to55Hrc is not too hard to turn on a lathe with proper carbide inserts.

The lathe gear head can really take a cut. Bought a range of steel rod early knowing the gears would take it. Interupted cuts can loosen compund handle. Going for a gravity coolant feed as spray isnt preferred.

Very interesting thankyou.

At 16:45, could you have done the heating with an electric furnace/kiln, or an electric induction cook-top element inside a furnace type body, while flooding the furnace with argon gas instead of flux for surface erosion protection?

Aboot the bottom being dished out. Do I get a prize ?? Maybe it's the same reason dish bottom furniture like tables and lamps. Is to help them sit flush on surfaces without rocking. Imagine the difficulty it would be to get a 3 foot diameter flat bottom dish from rocking if the surfaces are not perfectly flat

i reckon the underside is usually bored out to ensure it doesn’t rock/‘seesaw’ on any high spots or bits of debris on the bench top

11:46 i think the second depth of cut was 3 or 4x more than first pass, the orig. depth worked well it seems

good job

Nice work , I was expecting a lapping on a flat plate rather than the unconventional grinding. It came out very nice and I am sure you will use it all the time. I made a handy one from a hockey puck for quick rough use and am very happy with it. I always enjoy your videos, there is something new to learn every time. Keep making videos, and I thank you for this one, cheers!

For your surface grinding - reverse the lathe so the rotational planes are opposed. If both contact points are spinning the same direction they're going to push off instead of biting in. Having a very slight angle helps a ton too.

Im pretty sure that 6 liters of vegie oil in Australia worth more than entire part if you buy it

Referring to your self made wood planer, there is another UKpostsr who made his own set of wood planes. The way he constructed his planes is certainly different - he is a wood worker and he applied woodworking methods to building his planes! Hint: dovetail joints to join the 3 larger flat surfaces of the plane! His channel and name is: Young Je The result is quite spectacular & amazing. 😀