What is the name of the game

What a talented guy Good to watch someone way more intelligent and creative doing something I could only dream of. Well done on the build 👏 👍

Could you make a replacement pcp board if I send pictures and size

Great job, amazing experience , you reminding me when i was young but with less budget :)))

I trieda witha plata ita worka

This is perfect, exactly what I need!

Bruh why is there Genshin music 😂

i just tried this with normal LED which does not work 🙄. but it still has to be Ultraviolet light! now i have to get a UV light bulb...

You can now build and sell some with your own branding

What game call that

Parabéns.

One thing this doesn’t address is the ams. Having built my own core xy with heated chamber, max volumetric flow of 20, basically on par with the p1p, ams integration was a non-starter. Tried putting on a orusa mmu2 and had constant jams. Bought an x1 carbon and i am blown away - not had a single print fail. Also never bothered doing filament calibration since because lidar gets it good enough. My build printer would take half a day to dial in flow rates and input shaping. Saying that old printer is still my go-to abs machine(tip - fan at 100% for abs supports makes them brittle). Good video tho. 😊

i need help for my school project can i use tip42c instead of tip32c transistor bc i cant find it anywhere in my count ry

what's your age: 10 how many years of experience you have: 50

Good evening my friend, which link can I buy it already assembled? I can't buy it assembled by PCBway

finaly a kababayan..

After 3 years, are you still using it? How has it been? Could you provide feedback?

Thanks for the idea. I can now use my wireless mic. 😁

put a bamboo labs hottend on it?

stepper motor on metal bracket not better,? and now you have a welder.!?

Do i have to have a good quality lense ?

me no have magnifying glas

That's a great idea 💡

Where do you put HDMI cable??? The new model of ESP64 :)

How exactly does this work? I see a common emitter amplifier that is connected to the microphone to me that makes sense. I assume the other transistor is doing the modulation but I can't seem to determine how.

Keep dreMing , bambu 100x better

easy? i say so. but is it worth the time and money for the soldering kit and stuff?. hmm. I would rather buy another 20buk cheap G series

Great job! I was wondering why you didn't use Klipper, and then you said you were going to migrate, so it makes sense to use the single Octoprint core since you are already running it. You are inspiring me to convert my Klipperized SV06 to CoreXY (I have a Voron 0.2r1 already). I may start the planning process sooner rather than later now.

Glad to see a Filipino electronic nerd here in youtube

dont know much about electronics but cant stop watching about electronics

Redmi phonil pattumo...

Get you engineering degree removed ? Dude sometimes you have to JFDI, degrees are just a certificate, hand skills are for life !

Want better welds? You need shielding gas, argon. With the propper wire it will eliminate a lot of the spatter you get from using flux core wire. With practice your welds will start to improve, but seriously flux core wire really sucks bad. If you can come across a cheap gas cylinder and can get the plumbing and manifold, your next project can be to make a cart to hold the gas cylinder and welder on wheels! Nice work though, I always though a steel frame would be awesome for rigidity!

This is the way how a wireless ring is made

LMAO @5:11 "kind of looks like drugs..."

What?!?!? You can use the Magnifying Glass other then to fry ants?!?!?!? 😅😅😮😊

I actually initially designed my printer similar to this. To be made all from cheap welded profiles because 2040 was so expensive (I wanted a big printer, 2020 wasn't going to cut it). There were several reasons I didn't end up doing it and eventually went with 2040 (it got cheaper at one point). I didn't have/know how to weld. I knew 90deg angles were hard, but wasn't sure how much or if I could trust a shop to get the whole thing properly squared, or how much it would matter in the final design. It was also very hard to know ahead of time how I was going to attach things exactly since I had zero parts on hand. Some things had step files but not all. I also don't know how to cut threads so I was planning to attach stuff mostly with long nuts/bolts (ugly). There was also very little flexibility in the design in case I got something wrong (a lot went wrong). I ended up balancing the costs of having to buy/learn all that stuff and having it potentially not work with just buying the 2040 when it got a little cheaper, and I'm glad I did. In my situation, I actually mounted everything with hardware store brackets (some modified slightly) until I could print, then I redesigned the mounts and printed them. The 2040 allowed me to easily change were stuff was and was invaluable. In the end it was actually all the nuts and M3/M5 screws that I found to be some of the most expensive parts (locally they are expensive). I also found that it's also hard to get the 2040 to be perfectly square! But also that it doesn't matter that much. Anyways, it's nice seeing someone actually try such a design! I had only seen a couple welded printers in pictures before (and the lack of printers made like this also didn't inspire any confidence).

Great video man keep up the work

gayet güzel çalışıyor

Could you link all of the components i have been trying to find the components for hours and i cant find it

Super!!!...Thank you soo much!!! Best Greetings from Greece. !!!...

Name of the game?

steel? why not!! 😊

It looks like u 3d printed the hotend how did u smooth it to look that good

Brilliant tutorial mate really enjoyed it

U definetly went over buget cause them liniar rails cost 250$ alone nowadays

U10 on your main PCB is not clearly marked. I can see that one of the pads are going to an SCL on the interface port. On the schematics SCL is a 10th pin, so now we know how to hook up :). But, without the schematics, would be a pain ;). I know you've done an AWESOME job and will be more improvements, but, hope you don't mine me pointing out this small correction on the PCB. I'll build several of them if one will work. So, the first one is the worst :).

Can this scheme work with a soldering iron that has a temperature sensor using a thermocouple?

My biggest problem with Bambu is that they list their dimensions like they've managed to crack into the 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, and 9th dimensions. 256x256x256 mm^3 means 256x256x256x256x256x256x256x256x256. Who the fuck does their product labeling?