Okay, so I always wonder about this. Why do American woodworkers build the toekicks/make them into the cabinet, when there are leveling feet that are designed for cabinets. Like cost wisebI understand why building them is easier, but for ease of use why not the feet

Did you finish with Rubio on the inside of boxes as well, or just stay with the “pre-finish”?

@30:50 if you bevel the edge of your board your scribe will fit better. Doesn't need by much, 5 degrees is plenty. (old finish carpenter's trick)

Those electrical boxes are genius. Where did you get those?

I have a subscription and a bell but the last video that was shown to me by UKposts is the drywall one 😡

as someone who just started woodworking and chose a entertainment stand as my first big project i can confidently say, I HATE INSTALLING SLIDES

is there a flashing in the back of the top to stop water ?

Loved watching your video! I would love to know your thoughts on how to add rounded corners to a frame. I was thinking, adding a corner piece at 45 degrees all with lap joints and then trimming with a round corner router template. Would love to know what you think?

Awesome video, great explanation and exactly what I was looking for.

nice kitchen you’ve made!

Old timers use wax on those screw threads. Helps with all manner of screw metals and thread size. Try it next time

Great video! Did you find the source of the leak? did you fix it? I have a similar leak from the entrance of my house and after replacing the door and the siding around it I still have a leak... I'm assuming it comes from the edges of the door...

Plywood? More like Whywood amirite? :D

Flutes/fluted

Bro...

Once I taught myself how to do undermount slides I will NEVER install side mount. Call backs on side mounts are inevitable. Trash can box needs to be very clean or it’ll sound like crap when you open and close it

How come, in every single cabinet, there's always a bit space at the top? Like you used a 2 inch or so board at the front of the carcass, and maybe a 4 inch at the back, but left a bit space that will be covered up by the countertop. That space doesn't seem to do anything but get stuck on cutlery?? Would it not much more sense to fill that hole so a wonky spatula can't get jammed in it?

What material did you use for toe kick?

Floating toe kicks... this is the way. Great video. I think your louver concept is perfect and adds a lot visually as well as tying the various elements together. Watching you chamfer those thin edges made me nervous, because routing is like the forward pass: three things can happen, and only one of them is good. My final thought to this comment is, whoever makes those plastic shims you use must absolutely love you because you're clearly keeping them in business.

How has that lovely table ended up as panel clamp storage???

Please try making your own ply out of acrylic sheets and thicker veneers for transparent plywood. I need to see this.

Great tutorial video! 😊I tried to make this today before seeing yours and I was way off!!

The most cinematic kitchen reveal i've seen so far, nice work!

How did you decide on the spacer size?

Amazing! love it, this gives me inspiration to make my own

In the beauty shots, the difference in color and grain between the small solid wood panels and the large veneered panels was too obvious and a sore to the eyes. I would’ve used the same material for all panels. Great skills though.

How did you get so much sheen out of the Rubio?

Will you be putting a white oak facade/panel onto the fridge door that you'll use? personally I think that would just look super clean but of course it is your house. thumbs up the great design overall of your kitchen a love it to bits didnt realise white oak could look that good.

You could have built your new beam ABOVE the ceiling joists ( DO NOT CUT the joists at all ) Tie the new beam to the doubled ceiling joists using through bolts and joist hangers if appropriate and available, then remove the support wall

I have some semi gloss polyurethane, I am making pine floater frames and want a natural look on some of them, would you use the poly or invest in general finishes arm or seal oil based. I need protection of frames and want something if one gets dinged I can repair it. the framed paintings when not sold need to be stored and they can get damaged there or in transport. The natural look is pretty much what I am using. thanks

Been following the renovation and it looks awesome. One tip. It's best practice to trowel thin set in straight lines as this will provide a uniform height. If you trowel in circles you run the chance of putting too much thin set in one spot and not enough elsewhere potentially creating voids or weak spots under the cement board.

A sculpture background. It all makes sense now. Hallelujah for the arts. Chapeau Monsieur

I was a little sceptical about the handles, but once I saw them all inset etc.... yeah that works... it works real well! definately worth the extra effort

Next time, tape the area around the broken fastener, then tighten the drill check around the broken fastener. Put the drill in reverse, Voila. It works nine out of ten times. You can put a little electric tape for grip. Also, for hardwood, use some soap on the threads, less torque on the cheap fasteners, and fewer breaks.

These are again stunning! Btw I built a 90% solid hickory vanity, still working on the drawers and doors and I went for a simple mid mod look for my 70’s house with my favorite integrated drawer pull holes. I love hickory but every screw snapped, broke into the hickory, also broke and snapped my drill bits so I bought two nice sets and those in the size I needed all broke as well! Going slow helped on occasion but it was a nightmare! Hickory cuts great on table-saws although definitely hard and dense but hates screws and drill bits. I was told to use soap or wax which I will when I get the drawers done but omg it was horrible! It ate more pocket hole screws than any other screw too, the only place I used pocket screws was for the bottom so if water ever leaked and ruined the one piece of ply I added then I was hoping to easily back them out but I just know the screws will snap drilling out

I like the cover you put on drawer if you mind I would use that my next project.

Beautiful work. Incredible attention to detail on nailing those cut outs. Haha. Thats some skill there.

It looks gorgeous! The only thing that bothers me is the colour difference between the sink doors and the neighbouring cabinet. Would it be possible to correct that after the topcoat has been applied?

Beautiful! I'm sorry if I missed it, but what kind of counter top are you going with?

25:31 - Always love it when people use multiple coats of Rubio "Mono"coat. They really should ship that stuff with a big asterisk next to the name.

Great video, but where are the face frames? Curious will your faces be flush with the top of the base inside bottom or have a 3/4" reveal above the base inside bottom? Thanks

32:21 I don’t understand why a 6 inch cabinet has to be considered a tiny cabinet. Personally I think it’s more than adequate and really it depends on how you use it. Edit: for the record… I think it’s more about the cabinet’s personality anyway

now I want to build a kitchen myself :o

For my ground-up kitchen build I used the same "sponge tray" and my one regret was not building a "sacrificial face" for the hinges; I used the exact same ones you did, and I really felt the connection ended up weaker than I like. It will be a point of failure in the (relatively) near future. If I had installed a 1/2 thick strip of plywood on the hinges, then attached the door front to the plywood, I think it would have worked out MUCH nicer. But all in all, looks amazing! Thank you for the content!

I'm sponsored by Velocity Screws...let's get you set up!

So cute!

super nice Michael! great work, they lood fantastic!

Looks awesome

Fantastic work, as always... the door handles would have been more harmonious if they had been at the top, not on the sides, but BRAVO for the final result.

Is that a wood master?