Haha sure thing :)

Thank you for the question! I know, using microcontrollers can be a bit scary. On this channel I try to help beginners to lose that fear and give it a try :-) But of course you don't have to use microcontrollers, if you don't want to. For touch sensors, there are ready-built modules. Just search for "TTP223B touch sensor" and you will find ready-made modules. But if you want to build something yourself, there is also a microcontroller-less version that I found here: ukposts.info/have/v-deo/q6hkeWyNhGaWmmQ.html . I have not built this circuit myself, but it looks like it makes use of a similar principle. Let me know if that helps, and thank you again for your question! Have a great weekend! :)

@@FriendlyWire aaaah... ok... muchas gracias..!!! Tomare nota... estaba buscando un sensor capacitivo que pueda armarse con componentes simples... gracias por los datos... Saludos y buena suerte...!!!

@@tiempoveganoprovida2247 Happy to help, and good luck to you, too! :)

Thank you, I am glad you liked the video! If you want to resolve the position in an absolute way then you need an "absolute" rotary encoder. These have more outputs than just A and B, of course, because they need to resolve the whole angular span. But I am not sure if that is always necessary: if you don't need the full 360 degrees, you could also use a potentiometer and measure the voltage at the wiper with a good analog-to-digital converter. Alternatively, you could use a gear with a 2:1 reduction to map 360 degrees to 180 degrees on the potentiometer. What is your target resolution for this project?

@@FriendlyWire Thanks for answering. I have created a web app. It converts the shadow azimuth obtained from a shadow stick (to be your potentiometer turning "cylindrical knob") at center of a 0 to 360 degrees azimuth dial (azimuth angle is from 0 degrees to shadow) to an associated target azimuth. 0 degrees on the dial does not necessarily meaning north pointer but any required azimuth as I turn the cardboard dial I actually cut out a pointer above the 0 degrees It's an upsidedown marker or teardrop I WANT YOUR IDEA TO DISPLAY THE TARGET AZIMUTH AS YOU CHANGE THE SHADOW WITH THE POTENTIOMETER (OR OTHER SOLUTION OF YOURS) THEN YOU HAVE A SHADOW SUN COMPASS ! (make nice plastic toy with display) I have an improved web app that I call SHARKY SHADOWS for shark spotting (and flares and drowning people etc) I learnt long ago you cannot be a PC OR PHONE programmer AND a microprocessor programmer at the same time, but I can help anyone who attempts it with atleast some javascript guidance. OK, the pic cannot really do all the calculations, I guess.

Thank you so much, Kieran, much appreciated. Have a great weekend!

Thanks for your interest and for your question! When you set up the project etc. did you select the PIC16F28A as a device?

@@FriendlyWire yes i selected PIC16F628, maybe this issue is something to do with the internal clock?

@@djt3934 Yes, it could be that. Can you send me your code to my email (at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com) and I will have a look at it :)

Thank you, Simon, much appreciated! :)

Much appreciated, thank you, Brandon!

Wow, thank you so much much, Brandon!

Good question! Because this circuit does not use any microcontroller, the code is fixed and cannot be changed. If you want to change the code, you have to change the circuit. Have a look at the companion article on my website: www.friendlywire.com/projects/code-lock/ . In this article I explain how the schematic works, and after reading it you will have a pretty good idea of how you can change the code :) But if you are building this circuit and have the pushbuttons in a separate location, a simple way to change the code is this: leave all wires unchanged, and just move the location of the physical pushbuttons around. For example, switch the location of pushbutton A and C on your keypad, and all of a sudden it looks as if the code has been changed. Let me know if this helps or if you have additional questions, and thanks again for your interest & for your question! And, most importantly, have fun with electronics!

Man!! the article is so helpful... thank you!

@@marounn-ao4014 I am glad it helps! If anything doesn't make sense please reach out via email, I will do my best to help out. You can find my email at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com :)

Thank you! I use Eagle to make the schematics (no real reason, I just like how they look like) and then I animate the squiggly lines by hand by drawing onto the schematic with GIMP and then superimposing those lines on top of it.

@@FriendlyWire Thanks A lot for this brief comment, I have my DLD Project presentation next week, saw your designs and it caught my attention. Amazing ❤️

@@talha_abbas Happy to help, and good luck for your presentation! :)

Ich komme aus Deutschland, aber mache die Videos auf Englisch :)

Thank you, Herman, much appreciated! I recently moved so I have to wait until I can film the next video, but I have already planned a lot of new videos :)

Thank you for your feedback! :) Yes, it could use more time, I agree with you. Sometimes it's hard to decide for me how much detail to put in the video. For this reason I always write a companion article to each video, which usually has more details. You can check it out here: www.friendlywire.com/tutorials/rotary-encoder/#ch7 Let me know if it makes sense or if you have questions, I am happy to help!

It's never too late to learn something new! :-)

Hi Stuart, thanks for your kind words! Sorry, I have no videos on the PIC10F200. The chips I use most frequently are the PIC16F1455, PIC16F627A, and the PIC16F883.

Glad you liked the video! :)

I am glad you liked the video! Yes, it can be very frustrating... Sometimes it helps to just have the shift register, with LEDs at all outputs, and pushbuttons at the input pins (with debounce capacitor and pulldown/pullup resistor) to check everything step by step. Have you tried that? Let me know if this helps. If not, I can explain more. Don't be discouraged by this. It is a normal experience, and I have had similar experiences, too. I almost gave up many times. But I know you can do this :)

@@FriendlyWire I actually did it. I didn't know 'shiftIn()' function actually works but it is quite tricky at timing. I just keep on believing on it that it'll work until it did and made me so happy. Also, for people reading this I don't recommend using breadboard I recommend soldering it in a temporary soldering board because breadboard can have a chance of loose connection of the resistors causing it to read different.

​@@yamitokyoo I'm glad that it works now, congratulations! Awesome job, and thank you for sharing!! Yes, the timing can be a bit tricky, in the sense that if you do the clock pulses too quickly it may be too fast for the shift register. This is why I run these examples here at 4MHz (effectively 1MHz with PICs) which is slow enough so we don't have to worry. I am glad you got it working on a PCB! I like breadboards because they are so flexible, but if you get a bad breadboard it can be extremely frustrating because of loose wires/bad connections. Glad it worked out! :)

Thank you so much, glad you like it!

Ziyan, thank you so much for your comment, it made my day! All the best wishes from Germany!

I would love to claim that I came up with the algorithm, but I did some research and found the one I presented in the video online :)

Thank you, glad you find it useful! :)

@@FriendlyWire don't stop making beginner friendly tutorials. I am trying to replicate and learn :)

@@divitrajgogia4909 Comments like your mean a lot, and I don't have any plans to stop anytime soon. I just moved recently so I am still getting set up in the new place. :) Thank you for your kind words, and have a great Sunday!

You need some sort of device for that. There are other options out there, including kits that use the serial connection from back in the day, but I find the PICkit3 or similar devices to be the easiest choice.

Thank you, good to know! :)

Ja, das sollte auch funktionieren, ein paar Flip Flops sollten reichen :)

I would love to see it, make sure to share a photo and tag me :)

Thank you very much, I am glad you like it! :)

Hi! I am not sure if I understand your question, can you elaborate?

For now I will stick with PIC microcontrollers :)

Thanks for your interest and for the question! This circuit is sensitive to anything that affects the stray capacitance of the breadboard/surrounding air. The way it is built I did not pay attention to any particular EM shielding, and I doubt that it will be possible to design a truly robust circuit like that on a breadboard. Is there any particular type of application you have in mind? :)

Thank you so much, I am glad you liked the video! :)

It's a bit hidden, it shows up in the dist/default/production/ subfolder of your main project folder. Can you find it there? Alternatively, if you compile it inside MPLAB IDE, there should be a message where the .hex-file is stored. Hope it helps, let me know! :)

If you press C when you have only pressed A and then B, then the CD4017 in charge of pin C will still be at Q0, and therefore the circuit will reset when C is pressed :)

Thank you so much, Sebastien, much appreciated :)

This capacitive sensing only works with all ADC functionality turned off. I think the ADC is a bit too slow for a proper conversion. It's not so much about the voltage levels involved, but about the time scale in which the voltage levels change. So my recommendation is not to use the ADC functionality. But let me know if you can figure out a way to use it, it would be good to know! :)

Good question, I should have mentioned it. If you look at the schematic at 5:05 you see that there is another pair of inputs/outputs called R2IN/R2OUT, T2IN, T2OUT, because the MAX232 can actually support two channels in total. And C2 is needed for the second channel. Since we only need one channel for this project, you can omit C2. Hope it helps! :)

@@FriendlyWire tq a lot

@@susmithat881 Happy to help, and thank you for your interest! :)

@@FriendlyWire we are doing project about transmission of characters using pic controller and max232 and rs232 to pc but we can't see the characters in hyper terminal can you please suggest how to deal with.i have debugged at max232 we put led it glows but we can't see output on hyper terminal baud rate everything goes fine.please can you suggest where it went wrong.

@@susmithat881 It's great that you built this, nice work! It always takes some time to get these things sorted out. Did you use the PIC16F627A, and the PICkit3 to program it?

Die Rechenzeit dafuer ist minimal, weil du die Inputs ja nur maximal einige hundert Mal pro Sekunde abfragst, es geht ja um menschliche Computereingaben, und nicht um digitale Signale. Wenn Du schneller reagieren moechtest, dann ist diese Auslesemethode in der Tat nicht die idealste, aber fuer Konsoleninputs reicht es alle mal :)

@@FriendlyWire Verstanden. Danke für die Antwort.

@@aSameplayer Keine Ursache! :) Lass mich wissen, ob Du noch weitere Fragen hast, ich helfe gerne.

Yes, this one is latched! I think the 595 is probably more expensive these days because it's older and used in a bunch of legacy equipment?

Bob Ross has spoken :D

Thank you, glad you like it! It's a bit of a puzzle for me for every video to try and make it look neat, and I do enjoy the challenge, but ultimately I hope that it can make the videos more fun and easy to follow :) Have a great weekend!

I am not sure if the PICkit2 is still supported by the current versions of MPLAB :( But the PICkit3 still is, for now, and you can get clones (sometimes called PICkit3.5) on Amazon and other sites for around $20. I know it's super silly that they keep making new programmers, since for these simple PICs the old ones work just fine...

Thank you for your nice comment, I am glad you found the video helpful! :)

Never mind its called detents

Yeah they go by different names, and for cheap ones that don't have datasheets it's a bit of a guess, unfortunately. But commonly the situation with the detents/stops is similar to what is shown in the video.

Yes, it works for any pin that has a tristate register :) But you will have to write different code for the PIC16F84A because its internal registers are different from the ones of the PIC16F627A. Do you have some experience with PIC microcontrollers?

Good question! For all my videos there are companion articles on www.friendlywire.com, and they always include links to where you can buy the components. All basic stuff (capacitors, resistors, LEDs) and the PICkit you can get from electronics starter kits you can buy on Amazon or any other website. The PIC microcontrollers can be bought directly from electronics distributors, such as Mouser or Digikey, or other local ones to your country. Let me know if it helps, and thank you for stopping by! :)

@@FriendlyWire this information that you have provided MORE than helps! Thank you for your assistance and I’ll look into the link

@@curly-hairedassassin5233 Fantastic, happy to hear it. Let me know if you find what you need!

Thank you, I am glad you liked the video! You'll have to try a bit with the threshold values in the code for that, let me know how it goes, I will be happy to help!