I wish I Made This For My Computer Years Ago!!!
16:12
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@NS-rm7df
@NS-rm7df 4 хвилини тому
Thanks. I have been guilty of dry-pouring ready mix in post holes to save time. Won't do that any more. I have pulled some old (50-60 years) corner posts out that were set in concrete. Some were hard and some were crumbly like your dry-pour samples. Now I have a pretty good idea why. ns
@JohnnyT161
@JohnnyT161 12 хвилин тому
The lime in the concrete requires hydrogen for the chemical reaction to occure that sets the concrete. The wicking of water from the ground may never achieve the strength of properly mixed concrete.
@danlux4954
@danlux4954 38 хвилин тому
Only wet pour for me.
@oh_look_bananas
@oh_look_bananas 41 хвилина тому
I just redid my steps. Just caulked the whole thing. It’s waterproof.
@johnschiffermuller4930
@johnschiffermuller4930 43 хвилини тому
We used to sort of mix in place, pouring the concrete around poles, wetting it, then packing it in with a 2x4, then adding more concrete, wetting it, packing it, in lifts of about 2 inches. We'd finish to the top of the square form we used around the pole tops, then strike off, wet, and float. It looked good and we never had any failure issues, but I'm now the lab qualification manager for a state road department and I have learned a LOT more about concrete from out stuctures engineers, our lab managers and technicians, and I'm qualified for C39 which is the concrete compression test. It's fascinating how much strength varies with the % of water used in the mix and proper curing.
@thooper4380
@thooper4380 55 хвилин тому
I dry poured a 30ft walkway a year ago. The subsurface was extremely compacted, so I was only able to go 2" down in the center with 4" deep on the sides. It's been through 8°F this winter and had my 1200 lb horse walk on it, and through all of that, there's been no signs of cracking.
@andrewshedron425
@andrewshedron425 Годину тому
Start out by watering your base before you do your dry pour. Also the drying time of using quick Crete will affect your missing times. If you wait to mist again till curing has started, water can't penetrate as easily to do it's job.
@phoenixankaa
@phoenixankaa Годину тому
Awesome. Now I want to hire you lol
@bestseedorchard1107
@bestseedorchard1107 Годину тому
I pulled some dry pour posts surrounds, terrible , exactly like yours, voids , crumbly, weak.
@mikeb2777
@mikeb2777 Годину тому
I agree that dry pour is not as strong as wet pour but there are ways to add water to dry pour that allows it to work for pads, patios and walkways. There are plenty of internet examples of this so it shouldn't be discounted completely.
@HughGard-rc7cc
@HughGard-rc7cc 2 години тому
This is a lie...selling concrete to lazy people sells more bags than telling the truth..total bulls#it.
@KingSobieski
@KingSobieski 2 години тому
Just do it the right way.
@markdiephouse
@markdiephouse 3 години тому
Dry pour sucks. We tried it. It was frustrating. Not my idea.
@rodconner9079
@rodconner9079 4 години тому
Not an Engineer!!! But a bag of "ready mix" is an engineered product. Already knew the answer to the break tests. Can dry-pour be done - absolutely (with controls/conditions). Understanding why and what is going on makes a huge difference. Enough water and consolidation (mix/churn) --- even distribution, all keys. Oh -- and extending the hydration process, ie - covering with plastic, misting, curing compound ect. Concrete/cement: Stop hydration = stop the curing process (heat or cold). As long as you keep it wet, the stronger it gets. The chemical reaction, activated by water/moisture, generates heat on it's own (evaporation), just a note. Ideally, plastic under also so water can't be pulled from underneath. Many other factors play a role too (think application) : ) Be Safe
@creativestudio4873
@creativestudio4873 4 години тому
Just wait till the leaves falls and blows onto the grating then the next big rain comes and compresses down on the leaves and runs over it and floods the area
@_DlME
@_DlME 4 години тому
My thoughts as to why the dry pour is so weak and not cured all the way. I think adding water 30min to 1 hour in cycles causes the curing that did start already to slow down. Because it is a chemical reaction, there is heat. Water would cease that heat and thus cease the curing process. Just adding my 2 cents. Im not a scientist or engineer or anything so cant be 100%. But it seems along the lines of the correct answer.
@00linered
@00linered 4 години тому
I think you're supposed to mist the top until the surface finish is set, then soak the entire piece to allow the moisture to saturate throughout the slab.
@daviddiehl-gy2sq
@daviddiehl-gy2sq 5 годин тому
Dry pour you dont get the crystals that form in wet pour.
@daviddiehl-gy2sq
@daviddiehl-gy2sq 5 годин тому
I mist or cover wet pour concrete.
@MichaelKingsfordGray
@MichaelKingsfordGray 5 годин тому
Dry-pour won't work here in Australia. It is hotter than Death Valley. Humidity is often 0%. Misting will evaporate before landing on the aggregate.
@Lucysdad66
@Lucysdad66 5 годин тому
Next time try throwing a healthy handful of sugar and with the mix
@urphonesucks
@urphonesucks 6 годин тому
Structural Engineer here. Yeah, dry pouring is bunk. For the unskilled. Lol... Put one of your dry pour samples in a bucket and keep submerged. The cement in concrete needs a certain amount of water to cure. I'm sure not enough water got into the slab. Hence the color difference too.
@allsearpw3829
@allsearpw3829 6 годин тому
GOT TO GET THE SLUMP RIGHT ,for the job your doing .
@ripvanwinkle9648
@ripvanwinkle9648 6 годин тому
Anyone who has dealt with a sack of concrete that had been damp (but not fully wet) and then dried out could have told you what was going to happen on that press.
@joncue0304
@joncue0304 6 годин тому
Call me crazy, but I actually like the color and texture of the dry pour better. Looks like if you want more of a non-slip texture, the dry pour would be far better.
@willysnowman
@willysnowman 6 годин тому
You could have just read the directions on the bag.
@michaelfarrell6448
@michaelfarrell6448 7 годин тому
I "dry pour "my clay pottery projects as well. People are lazy by nature i get that over ambitious people historicly would die bc of limited caloric availability and limited saftey knowledge and people who only did whats they had to do had a much better vhance of survival. So find lazy man with integrity and hell find the best easiest way of doing anything ( integrity is key thought)
@eskimofo9i6
@eskimofo9i6 8 годин тому
Awesome video and you got yourself a new subscriber! I was going to do a dry pour for my backyard slab due to all the UKposts videos on dry pour. Thanks for saving me
@deadeyedog3663
@deadeyedog3663 8 годин тому
I might consider dry pour for a mailbox post, but I won't do it on a fence post.
@robertcaldwell2994
@robertcaldwell2994 8 годин тому
Let's see 12 freeze thaw cycles and talk. Poeosity tells the tale.
@bunni702
@bunni702 8 годин тому
I don’t see the issue with a dry pour if you’re using it for simple foot traffic, or low impact/low weight areas.
@FurballHacker
@FurballHacker 8 годин тому
I dont think i took a single breath this whole video! Damn it!
@pitviper8795
@pitviper8795 9 годин тому
You will get way better results by laying down 1 layer then watering thoroughly then putting down the top section screeding then misting the top. You will never get enough moisture for it to become one monolithic structure by misting just the top. It can be done way better by taking a few extra minutes to spray it throughout and its still way faster than wet pouring it.
@woodrowwilliams1812
@woodrowwilliams1812 9 годин тому
Save the dry pour for fence posts.
@shahsmerdis
@shahsmerdis 9 годин тому
Do you have a video going over those Marvin doors by any chance is that the essential or elevate series . ? Ty :)
@tomforeman4976
@tomforeman4976 9 годин тому
That kind of pressure on a dry pour that was done totally wrong is amazingly good. Side walks good be driven on with that kind of strength and all kinds of stuff. If you want good color finish use a paint roller with napth to make good color and finish that you won't slip on in a rain.
@Not_Ferrari
@Not_Ferrari 9 годин тому
it's almost like the people who make it and put usage instructions on the bag know what they're talking about 🤔
@alanjohnson2613
@alanjohnson2613 9 годин тому
Ive done dry for posts that I wanted set in concrete, the kids play structure. But then the ground has enough water to fully hydrate the concrete.
@wayneguy6043
@wayneguy6043 10 годин тому
No gravel?….????
@peanutbutterjellytme
@peanutbutterjellytme 10 годин тому
I’ve done dry pour with fence posts but never with a slab.
@i24uforever
@i24uforever 10 годин тому
Tofu concrete from China
@tsclly2377
@tsclly2377 11 годин тому
Rigged and as stupid as not using a wet saw to cut the concrete.. dry should have a water moisture access from the bottom.
@kevenbates4313
@kevenbates4313 12 годин тому
A cheap solution is the lay chicken wire flat on the ground around the exterior, best if actually barred an inch or two underground, it's also a great solution if you have a problem with dogs digging holes under fences.
@craiglaing2417
@craiglaing2417 12 годин тому
The first time I saw a dry pour performed on UKposts I was laughing from the belly. Why would you want or need to do this? You need to suspend the sand cement and aggregate in water in order to mix them properly for ultimate strength. Figured it was all for click bait 😂
@billmadle1235
@billmadle1235 12 годин тому
Hi I just came across your site of course I’m a finish carpenter now I’m 66 years old lol but in my younger days I did lots of masonry work and I enjoyed watching your video because personally I feel if somebody’s doing a little slab for air conditioner or something that’s why poor would be fine and when you did the test and you were up to eight thousand psi well regular concrete it comes out being delivered on the new construction sites. Is it regular concrete delivered like 4500 psi for? Getting up to 8000 psi that should be 8000 psi per square inch if I’m not mistaken but I know this is a really great test that you did I guess he gets a little technical on what’s right because if I’m not mistaken for driveways they would use 6000 psi and the water contacts that affects the strength to but I think you did an incredible test and that was something that’s always been on my mind for years too. When people do small jobs who the heck likes to mix concrete and sometimes if they put a bit too much water in there it’s gonna actually send strength out anyway it gets a little too technical but this is a really great test the best I’ve seen.Of course I said I’m on new construction sites but as I said I’m interior now lol and if I’m not mistaken commander psi is per square inch so should concrete be filled up in a little scrap piece of PVC piping and stand it up and see? I get settled too technical I guess the smaller pieces wouldCrumble fast but bonded together it will be strengthened and here’s another thought to what about fiber mesh. Nowadays they have the concrete with the fiber mesh you can get a 4 inch concrete pour to be a strong as a 6 inch concrete pour having fiber mesh put into it. All I can say is your video is a super test and there’s just so many variables. Maybe the drive for just broke apart easier and once again comparing it to wet Mix with actually how much water percentage but it gets too technical 👏 jobOne more thing, if the concrete says on the bag that it’s a 4500 mixMeaning it’s a percentage of Portland cement in that particular bag then if it holds 4500 to 5000 then it did its job pushing that test to 8000 I think the concretePressure went over its limit by far. If that mix was only supposed to be a 4500 pound mix and it made it to 8000 before crumbles then that concrete did an amazing job and like I say if somebody’s doing it for a concrete slab for a air conditioning unit what’s the airConditioning condenser unit what’sThe weight of that not much at all.
@BBradshaw131
@BBradshaw131 14 годин тому
It fell apart faster than America under biden
@sharoncox4358
@sharoncox4358 14 годин тому
Great video now I know what to expect on my project. Thanks.
@nononatto
@nononatto 14 годин тому
Nice. Thx you
@IAMSatisfied
@IAMSatisfied 14 годин тому
Dry pour has always been a joke. Maybe okay for setting fence posts in wet areas like the PNW, but really not an option for anyone who isn't a glue sniffer. 😄
@teardowndan5364
@teardowndan5364 15 годин тому
When you wet-pour, binding agents are evenly distributed throughout, excess water evaporates from the top, hydrate crystals grow in the material and you get a well-filled-in slab when you strap on a shaker to get the bubbles out. When you dry-pour, water seeping down through the sandbox washes down fine particles and binding agents, the larger particles stay where they are, gaps between particles become too wide for remaining binding agents to bridge and you end up with a bunch of clumps that have little more structural integrity than sand. Dry-pouring is never going to achieve the even distribution necessary for high strength. Adding binder / concrete adhesive to the dry pour may help with keeping the slab together and make it less porous in non-structural applications. BTW, if you baked the slabs to remove all of the excess moisture and weighed them, you would likely find out that the dry-pour slab is 5-10% lighter between being less dense (less tightly packed in its dry state) to begin with and some of its mass washing away while attempting to make it set. The "dry" pour samples are still going to suck even if you give them another year to cure. If I had a "dry pour" slab I was worried about, I'd try letting it soak some 50-50 mix of concrete adhesive, try to fill those pores and internal voids.