Honestly for fire and forget machines I'd get bambu or prusa but for anything else I'd get a voron I like the experience

How about TPU and ABS instead of the PLA? I regularly do prints that combine abs and tpu and they bond quite well.

hey Stefan, why do you keep deleting my comment about a free alternative?

Why not print a planetary gear set to get that wiked reduction and added torque?

that's pretty funny! I always describe 3D printers as handing a robot a hot glue gun

Nice video with a good explanation. I love the scientific approach (and also the many good comments and additions). Allow me a small correction: damping is the word used for dissipating energy; dampening means making something wet. No offense intended, even native English speakers often mix up these verbs.

Awesome video and interview, Stephan you are such an important part of the community.

Touching to hot glue ? Brilliant!

they literally just need to implement a way to use normal maps and UV unwraps

INTERESTING :) THANK YOU FOR SHARING :) THANK YOU FROM ISRAEL :)

You should modify a cheapo mini fridge as a cooling stage for the hot glue filament to bring it to a solid state quickly. You shouldn't even have to alter the refrigerant lines as they don't pass through most parts of the fridge. Drill two holes in the fridge for inlet and outlet, put your feed sensor in the fridge and any filament guides it would need and add a cooling fan inside the fridge for the filament.

to improve the quality, you can submerge the 3d printer into a non conductive water like pure water without minerals, this will cool down the filament instantly and the print will look better

Please, my brother, assist me in acquiring a small 3D printer. I'm a high school student in Ethiopia who has a passion for 3D printing, but unfortunately, financial constraints hold me back. Your help would mean the world to me.

Hi Stefan at 6:42 i think you are using tailstock and die holder the wronge way. The slotted hole and the corresponding hole in the tailstock should be connected via a guide pin.

look up poisons ratio. You shouuld bbe able to calculate the diameter if you can get the right material data and and controle setup parameters

Can you recommend a cheap and budget friendly AMS for a creality printer

Fun concept. But for all that trouble, just flip the print and use a spray adhesive.

Have you seen the “Liberty engine” video? It would be amazing to see someone with your skill replicate that engine to verify its authenticity, it would also help many people in the world. Thanks for all your hard work!

You should start using a floating variant of the benchy

Cool stuff, but too expensive unless you do A LOT of printing (especially if you consider the overall shredding and drying process)

I tried, it failed.

If you want to go deeper, you could look at Blu-Tack (poster putty) or Green Glue (noiseproofing compound) between a couple of slabs of concrete of different thicknesses. Blu Tack is a traditional audiophile hack, and Green Glue is a product dedicated to the purpose of damping transmission. You could also try covering the slab with spray popcorn texture. This texture will limit the ability of the slab to radiate noise back into the room. Really you want to cover every flat surface with popcorn texture, but the print bed would not welcome that. I suppose you could _print_ a popcorn texture on the unused parts of the print bed.

I've done some work on this process after seeing thos video. I was able to use gym chalk to very good effect. The detail retrevial was so good that the layer lines were still visible after remelting! I unfortunately don't have the means to quantifiably test its mechanical properties, but I observed perfect layer adhehion by way of uneven breaking, better clarity (with a clear filament), and a drastic increase in impact resistance (generally more than trippling the fall heights required to break compared to non-remelted parts). I have tested with HIPS, PETG, and PLA and they all seemed to work fine. I also used a barbecue thermometer and pulled the parts as soon as they reached 420 degrees fahrenheit. The next tests I plan to run is to make a vacuum formed high temperature silicone mold based on a SLS printed reference part. In theory this should allow for quick and repeatable remelting without the tedious process of packing chalk (or salt) resulting in a process that can hopefully allow for small production runs of comples parts. I'll comment below if I fine any success. I'm also very curious about PCTG. I've had everything required to do this for months but have been busy with school. I really want to get this stuff done before the end of may.

The phenomenon is called (unofficially) spaghetti straightening. Where the crosslinked/entangled polymer chains are pulled straight (aligned). This is from tensile pulling and makes the polymer longer and tougher!

The flow-dependent compensation is however not practical in real life since no firmware does it in real time and the speed changes for long and short segments

My family (wife and 12y son) are very sensitive to smells and allergies. I want to buy a A1 after i watched one of your videos interviewing the CEO of Bambu lab Do you know any health (long term or short term) associated to 3d printing and micro particles a volatile vapors(vic) ? i would appreciate your comment? thanks greetings from TX

Great video! But you need to learn and apply the difference between the word damping (removing energy) and dampening (adding water).

ty for this vid.. i was interested in 3d printing but now know its near impossible for me to do since i live in hawaii. you saved me money. but kinda sad that this is the fact. sucks for us

what about hexagons?

man do i hate the german accent, but the content is interesting 🥲

mineral spirits are non-destructive to plastic, far less caustic, and removes adhesive very well.Just a heads up.

I'm in the UK anyone who isn't pretty much retiring uses metric. Calling it English is very outdated. Only really the US seems to be clinging on to imperial

Reject modernity, return to hot glue

The Prusa MK4 looks like the old ANET A8 budget printer. I prefer the ANET A6, which is a great printer once it's modded upwards.

Petg also makes great flexible dough scrapers for high hydration sourdough scrapers.. I found this by accident when I removed a raft for an object and had lost my sourdough scraper. The raft did the trick despite being printed a little too open for food. But in flour and dough this is not really a health problem as dough relies on yeast to ferment anyway. My glass bed first layer is hotter and the print comes of with one side really having a closed shiny surface.

Petg makes great flexible guitar plectrums.

If we must print slower then a fast printer is pointless.

May benefit the print but is mist be stressful to the printer motors and wires and bearings.

Great idea!!!! Is there a way you can smash the layers down more? It seems to get more contact in the picture of conventional layers. You might get even stronger parts. And great pictures, by the way

Super cool. It was almost like the test sample of TPU/PLA had a muscle tear with those stretched out fibers under the microscope.

from the river to the sea Palestine will be free

I wish your methods and findings from these diagnostic videos could be made into a troubleshooting app or site, not just how something is done but why it is done one way and not another. So many times I have found my results significantly different than expected when replicating a test, but find myself getting confused as to which settings are most likely causing the issues. So many instructions show steps to calibrate, but not why one thing affects something else, and sometimes contradictory information between different sources. I love tinkering, but I want to do more printing and less calibration.

It's called "striction"

You should make a filament with pla core and TPU exterior. that way you will have a flexible matrix and stiff reinforcement.

You could cast samples to see if you're approaching homogeneous strength. I'd guess you're not, given the microscope pictures provided. I'd suggest increasing extrusion on inner walls to close the gaps and decreasing the fan to allow the material stay hot while it presses in. Just my quick assessment.

So basically you first used the technique of hard candy making to create a big cross section and then pull it thin and then you inverted fiber composites by embedding soft fibers (the TPU) in a stiffer matrix (the PLA). Absolutely wild! My ideas: could you create a feedback loop in your filament puller so it self-adjusts the tension and temperature for the perfect diameter? You could still print hex filament and put a bracket in front of the nozzle so the filament stays oriented the same way all the time. Might it be possible to "anneal" or remove stress after pulling using a gentle heating tunnel before and/or after the filament puller hotend? The heat still goes from the outside in, so not only do the two materials have different properties, they also are at different temperatures. That might reduce the filament-internal delamination (never thought I would write this scentence) Keep up the awesome work! I love how you quoted all these other channels, showing that we are not competitors, but a community

sounds like a pain in the butt of recycling :(

I wonder if you could fill in the 'brick' pattern better using different printing angles with a bed like this.

Of course honeycombs are the best. Hexagons are bestagons.

hi Stefan, really missing your filament review videos! Hope we'll se more :)