I hate that when you are a beginner on 3D printing, there is NEVER a nice way to learn about supports. You will always be sent to the BAD way

Big vote for CHT and especially CHT clones. Using it for a long time and never seen issues with, but i never used the original one.

As a hobby photographer and 3D printer I really enjoyed your video. Thanks!

I'm going to marry a 0.4mm nozzle, Thanks a lot

Cheap nozzles are fine, but better ones are nicer. Plated copper ones flow a bit more and probably allows to better melt the plastic, but I fell in love with tungsten carbide. It will always be the same size as nothing can realli wear it out (not even filled filaments) and you can clean it quickly and effectively just torching it until it glows red hot

Incredible Video / Cinematic Quality. With some of the shots it felt a bit like an intro to a James Bond movie. And all that additionally to the quality of the information

NozzleHub

try telecentric lens

Thanks for the hard work.

I can gladly say that the Bondtech CHT BiMetal nozzle is the worst nozzle I've ever used :)

I've got Diamondback nozzles on all 3 of my printers. They work very well for me.

Any idea about CHT Nozzle sir

I don't get it why almost all those nozzles have a big champfer on the top where nozzle meets the heatbreak. This will significally decrease contact surface, potentially create plastic leaks, and creates the cavity for plastic to stay there and burn over time.

Interesting, since E3D makes Prusa nozzles.

This episode reminded me of a Mosin Nagant I had that would consistently jam with steel cased ammunition. When diving into why this would be, I found that the cause was the chamber was narrower as the reamer that reamed it back in 1936 was likely worn down from use. I ended up having to abrade very small amounts of material and polish the chamber little by little to get it working flawlessly. Trying to drill or ream holes in metal, even precise holes, is never as exacting as we'd like it to be. Reamers and drill bits get worn down as they are used in a factory setting and the first hole you drill with a brand new bit will be larger by some degree than the very last one drilled before retiring that drill bit. I imagine in a factory producing thousands or millions of nozzles, this is something that will come up. A factory producing nozzles that is very interested in absolute precision will swap out drill bits much more frequently than one that is not (and there will likely be an added expense to compensate for that). On the other hand, what you've shown here is that variance may not matter as much as we think it might, to a degree obviously, but it's still fun to nerd out over it.

I would love to see the effect of a hexagon nozzle aperture on layer adhesion strength. Or square. Love heart shape, anyway shape change really as perhaps a round hole isn't the best option.

quack🦆

I got perfect score until it got to the cubes and guessed wrong every time 😂

I assume the bubbles from the wedge are because the printer is extruding the amount needed for a specific thickness. If you have a wedge, in ever direction but one (tip moving with the high end in front, low end in back), the printer will be laying down more filament than it's supposed to, so you will get thick areas and then every so often it won't have enough filament to cover the area which will leave a gap. It will also blob up a lot, as it will be almost like you have the tip too far from the build plate.

Since you have a diamond back nozzle xan you please test it with PETG and with carbon fiber PETG filament to validate their claims it stops sticky filament boogers?

So...what about steel nozzles?

Well, screw the optometrist, I got all of them right, I guess I'm sharp on the picky/quality scale!

Not sure why, but looking inside of nozzles is crazy satisfying!

I‘d love to see a video about non standard nozzle geometry. Like having a uniform square or crescent moon shape, instead of the regular circle. Great work on the macro photography, i am really digging your videos! Thanks!

What a great word, extrudate. Great content ad always mate 👍🇦🇺😊

Bro out here deserving the views. GG fam

AFAIK, you are not supposed to 3d print things that touch food, ever. First reason is because what you explained, the material is in contact with a lot of external agents that are not supposed to be in contact with food. (oils, metals that wear down and get into the food as you proved, bed adhesion sprays or glue, etc etc etc) And second, because the small grooves between layers are really difficult to clean. I know many people still prints things that touch food. I guess it's fine for most people? But I'm not doing it nor recommending anyone to do it.

I thought expensive nozzles were make from Naval Brass (C464) which has no lead? Am I wrong about this?

Best subtitels ever😂

Just get a single quality hardened steel nozzle. Since most people only print non abrasives a hardened nozzle will outlive your printer and possible you.

Wheres the link to the microscope objectives?

Thanks for this huge amount of work mate. Really appreciate it!

You can kind of tell based on the vibrancy of the yellow I'm thinking it's because the normal person nozzle conducts heat to the plastic a slight bit more efficiently.

That intro was 🔥

Great video! I wonder how much the added friction of a rougher machined inside surface affects max flow rate. And compared to plated nozzles which supposedly has less friction. I have been using microswiss plated brass nozzles for years (some over 5000hours) without changing them. Even printed a limited amount of carbon fibre and glow in the dark through them. I always assumed they where so good that they didn't get worn out but maybe the wear simply doesn't matter. Perhaps we should print a couple of meters of carbon fiber filament to break in new nozzles!

Fantastic vid!

Quack

14:40 - sounds familiar 😅 Good info and great video 👍

That intro was basically a cinematic masterpiece. Talk about lost in tech🤣🤣🤩

I was kinda shocked at 7:22 tbh, because I almost immediately had the impression that the top layer gaps on the cube in the bottom right were the least severe, and then it turns out that that's actually the E3D nozzle

Hi What a super deep dive video. I'm looking forward to your upcoming Diamondback video. I own an original Revo Diamondback 0.6 and I'm not very happy with my decision to spend that much money. First is that the performance is only on the level of normal brass, despite of the talking of super thermal conductivity of diamond as material. Second my print results are somehow not looking very well. What astonishes me is that when I do free flow test ( f.x. to find optimal flow rate ) the outcoming string measures ca 1.2mm instead of expected ca 0.6. I have never seen such swelling on f.x. my Bontech nozzle. I wonder if there might be higher stress of the material because of inserted diamond shape. Do you see whether there is a very different "compressing" form that augments the material stress ? P.S. All in ASA with different temperatures tried. Again: One of the best "professional" videos about nozzles Big THX

What happens with non white filament on new nozzles? Are we watching Titan dioxide at work?

I ended up filing down a nozzle slightly after it was damaged. It completely ruined it, but I now wonder if I could have just used it as a bigger nozzle!

Any chance you can also test a TC nozzle? I've been using a 0.6 from spool3d for 2+ years, as I print glow in the dark tpu for business. It's doing as good as the day I got it (I think), but I always wondered if the orifice is the right shape/size, and if I'm better off with something less durable but from a reputable source like e3d. Awesome video btw. Thank you so much! And more sub jokes please :)

quack 🦆

You can quickly wear a nozzle using glow in the dark filament. It's at least as abrasive as the GF or CF filaments but it doesn't have the bigger pieces in it that will cause clogs in smaller diameter nozzles.

I don't disagree with your results at all, but it was bizzare that I nearly passed the quiz, got first two and then had it narrowed down to 2 options for the cubes when time was up, but statistically someone probably guessed perfectly for the whole thing i suppose.

Thanks to your macro shots of the surface structure from damaged nozzles, I wonder if they result in a better layer adhesion since they theoretically now have a larger contact surface. 🤔 (Also, I'm wondering if a rough/larger nozzle surface may influence more technical materials in any way, but that's a total other can of worms…)

15:36 Holey 💩 LUL

Syriah Tech (I can’t spell) makes an AWESOME 85A for barely more than standard 95A. It’s about $5 more on Amazon in the US (~$25 vs $29 for 85A). That little extra bit of flex is a huge difference imo, still easy to print but it feels much more flexible! I was able to print it with a standard slow PLA profile