to bad thyt the tuya mcu doesnt send info about all of the info that a shown on the display. especially the reverse power is missing imho. same is with the dts238-7 (3 pahse version), where also just overall statistics are available and not for every phase. :-(

Brilliant education.Thank you so much

The smallest breadboard

They are £19.99, now back in the middle of Lidl, along with the fluorescent bikinis and arc welders 😂.

I got 90w to work type c 28v 5A with 140w type c cord and anker737 powerbank that outputs 140w max on one c port heats up so fast it only reads a little over 100w for 3 seconds on the power bank then dives back down to 2w to keep it stable

I already did that directly does my battery not working anymore

trash, utter trash and you will never know if you get grade A or grade B units until you test them... too much variables to even bother with.

Absolute waste of money. Using such a big flying polymer caps it should balance your supercap battery in seconds, which we obviously didn't see. The working active balancer must well... keep the battery balanced.

The charging is slowed by the relatively high internal resistance of the NiMh and secondly by the low conductivity stainless steel wires of the spiral springs and the internal resistance of the capacitor. Then those other things you mentioned.

Thank you. M

I had a cheapie glue gun snap at the pivot point of the trigger, I ended up supergluing it back with a nail as a type of pin to reinforce it, been working fine ever since, not sure what I would do if the post where the spring goes snaps, probably not worth the time to fix or figure out.

Can I send you an enphase micro inverter to test direct solar charging? My guess is the car will shut down but how cool if it just works

I don't think if that is a good weld. it feels like it barely weld. such kind of barely weld is bad for any kind of battery pack that prone to vibration such as bicycle. the vibration will slowly reap that barely welded strip slowly.

If you made the L & C same VALUES and in series it Oscillates better. 100nH 100nF

Any circuit or plug that allows the user to change polarity depending on how it is plugged in should be revised. Unfortunately it is not just GU10 but every plug socket in most of the EU, unlike the UK.

That's why I dislike the 555 pretty much. No matter if regular 555 or cmos 7555. They mess so hard with the power lines, even with decoupling caps, they put noise on the rails.

Thanks, timely info... What settings have you found work best for the 18650s?

Anyone knows the pinout of these 14-pin small lcd displays? These are pretty cheap little numerical displays.

Nice bit of kit Julian. and great video

german lengue YAESU FT2980 TX VOLLE SENDELEISTUNG 80 WATT 16-17AMPER+13VDC TEST CA 5 MIN DAUER SENDEN OB DER CONVERTER HEISS WIRD DAS IST DER GEWÜNSCHTE TEST UND NICHT BATERRIE LADEGERÄT!!!

It's the best review of that tool in UKposts. Thank you for your very informative review. 😊

Julian hello, quick question for you when, and if, you have the time. I did something silly a while ago and basically shaved the little strips of plastic on the batteries that sort of help with inserting the battery the right way in the slot. I shaved them because I used the batteries with a different drill. Anyhow, of course I went to charge one of these batteries and I inserted it inside my charger the wrong way, couldn't tell you exactly which wrong way because I immediately took it out of the charger but, that of course was long enough to have done some damage. Now the charger stays lit on green and won't charge dead batteries. I opened it up and I noticed only one thing that was suspicious. I should make a disclaimer that beyond soldering a couple things I don't really have much knoweledge of these things. But as I mentioned I did notice that the little strip of metal, for lack of better words, the one on the board inside the terminals is melted. By little strip I mean what looks like a straight piece of metal without coating that runs for just a couple millimeters more or less in the center of the board on the top side. Would you be able to advise me on this matter? Is there anything I can do to repair this charger? Is it a matter of resoldering the little strip so it makes contact again? I don't even know what that strip does but it sure looks melted on mine. I thank you in advance! All the best

Nice.

Couldn't you use this for a linear power supply

Great overview, thank you! And you know pretty much about USB as well.

I’m surprised YinLongs are so popular…I’d guess it’s because they make a 40Ah that’s got decent energy density..but a lot of people get screwed over and end up with 30Ah cells. The Lishen LTO 26Ah are truly the holy grail of decent capacity LTO cylindricals. I’ve heard the 18Ah have nowhere near the C rate. The 26’s are genuine 30C/50C cells for continuous/burst. The 18’s are wayyy less than that. I know they also make a 24Ah. The Toshiba Scibs are insane though. The prismatic 10Ah is rated at 75C but I find it hard to believe it’s truly 75C continuous. That’s what Sriko says though….the 20Ah are something like 35C continuous and 75C burst. Re: your Yin Longs are you sure you don’t have two 30Ah cells? I believe if you remove the shrink there is info on the cell. That capacity is just FAR too low to be from degradation. Look at the charts and it’s pretty much impossible to get 75% of rated capacity. Unless the manufacturing of the cell was entirely fucked.

Very interesting. I never really gave much thought to the topic.

I believe the video title should read *Heltec (spelled with a c) :)

You dont need a transistor. I made one with only two components and it generates 150 v from a AA battery

I enjoy photovoltaic MOSFET drivers, such as the VOM1271. Using this method, ones measurement and control circuit does not need to bother with gate-source commoning issues. One does, however, have to invest 10mA for each gate in the on state.

Old Julian is back 😅😅😍

Awsome video Julian ❤

I working with a bidirectional DC to DC converter i need help

How can it be 16A when 13A is the max for a UK plug ?

lost my old one ,,, somehow... but this seems so much better !!

have all the stuff you have.. dammit .. its like gambling... but worse :P

I've just bought P2 Pro for about one month, it impressed me a lot.

It can’t see the Bluetooth because the unit turns off completely from what I can tell that’s how mine seems to be behaving after it’s done balancing. Ok wow yours seems to run flawlessly compared to how glitchy mine behaves! I did notice my app seemed to get an update today but it only made mine now look just like how yours does lol I can’t toggle the balance feature on and off as you could. The balance switch does not do anything for me. And mine seems to shut down completely and can’t be found on the Bluetooth either so to use it as a voltage battery monitor only would not even work for me the way it’s currently operating and shutting down as it chooses

very good thanks...hope your still around and live in folkstone?????

Hi Julian, thanks for the review, sadly there's no individual slot charging current selection ... if I place mix AA and AAA NiMh batteries, what's the recommended charging current to set ? 50% of smaller AAA mAH , I.e. 50% 1000mAh =0.5A charging current ?

Amazon show some bad reviews...

I bought 32 LTO batteries. Will the lifespan of class B lto be shorter than that of class A? Do you think a B grade LTO battery would be suitable for an electric bike? Would a Lifepo4 battery make more sense?Thank you

Why do you have to find a BMS, doesn't the cell manufacturer know about their own cell management? Someone has already had the use of them, so what were they used for? Do you need subzero PV charging ability?

Thanks for the info Julian, "Different capacity cells in parallel is completely fine." - so if one can get different battery grades, hopefully at their 'right and fair price' worth; Make the battery pack easily modular and expandable. Easy disassembly and room to expand, so matching will be easier once more cells arrive. This sounds easy, but then the details creep up: Which controller is best, new enclosure(s) and wiring, fuse rating, etc. In the end, it could be worth it - but only if you're well skilled (and has knowledge) to do it safe. Ah, time to work on my LiFePO4 bank w. 400 'small' cells - some with minor difference in capacity, others with a bit more

Dont even use WD 40 on rubber or plastic. Warning on the can says it will eat rubber and certain plastics. Especially important inside your auto engine. You need to use rubbing alcohol repeating with a bew paper towel until its finally cleaned off. Acetone doesnnt work either

I can't imagine there's much market for cells that have already lost 25% of their capacity. Cells tend to degrade slowly when young and then lose capacity faster as they age, so perhaps they have not so many cycles left before they reach 50% loss. Also, if they've lost 25% now, then balancing will quickly become impossible as with age they will degrade to even lower capacity at different rates.

Greetings Julian, Super capacitors, one of you past experiments, have you seen recent appearance of 6 by 500 F boards with protection on Ebay, they look better than the original ones you had problems with, large tags, well soldered etc, can I tempt you to have a delve if you have time away from the Cell tests.

If you use the power adapter from mains and you use the "store" mode to charge sodium ion cells and then you get a power failure. Will it then go back to "store" mode when the power gets back? What happen if you put a cell the wrong way? Maybe you could send an email to XTAR and ask what the different charging is for the ⅿΩ instead of guessing ... A tip, when you put the cells in the charger, spin them around a few times for better contact.

What Portable Soldering iron Do you use

Thanks mr Julian 👍👍👌👌